Yescomusa.com 500 & 1000 watt 48v rear kit review

[windtrader]

Hi,


I have not had good luck with my CC CV kingpan chargers. Power supplies are about 1/3 the price of official ebike chargers and are more versatile. My $40, 60v 350 watt power supply can be adjusted down to 52v and up to 68v just by rotating a screw. The down side is they usually do not have a high voltage cut off point. All of my power supplies continue to trickle a few watts even after it achieves the HVC setting. Since I am always present when I charge, I do not worry too much. My HVC is set much lower than the 63v max of my battery, so, with the low current, I have about a 2 hour window. I have a lot of my ebike investment in the battery and I monitor it very well.

Seems like a simple circuit to monitor voltage on the battery side could trigger a relay that just shuts off the power supply when desired voltage is achieved. Bet not more than 10 bucks to add it. I don't think I would ever let a PS go direct to batteries unless there was some sort of automated shut down.

 

[alexis57]

Thank you for your message =)
I understood, you charge only if you are here to shut down the power supply.

 

[mcintyretj]

1000w, 16400 mile update:

Today was my last day of school until August 4th. This year I worked 182 days, drove 14 times and biked 168 which is about 8400 total miles for the school year. I think that after constructing a battery, I had more of a commitment. Also, It seemed to stop raining during the week here in southern California so I had no excuses. Here is a picture of my bike yesterday along the San Gabriel River bike trail.


Much of my commute is along this designated walking/jogging/bike trail that runs about 35 miles, from the ocean to the mountains. It is getting a lot of traffic and I see the regular bike commuters (and walker/joggers) daily but I have only talked to 4 other ebikers. I do a lot of smiling, nodding and waiving and try to be as good an ebike ambassador as I can, which means I peddle, and slow down for kids, dogs, people walking and other bikers.

My first rides along the San Gabriel river were in the 1960 and 70s. Back then it was not an official bike path so we had to lift our Schwinn Varsitys over a fence. In 1975, I rode with a friend from Seal Beach to Pasadena. We did a lot of lifting over fences and those Schwinn Varsitys were heavy. I know that eventually, ebikes will probably be banned from this path. Until then, I will take full advantage of the path. The fingers pointed out that this path is a great resource. I hope to meet more ebikers in the future.

Here are some commuting views:







One of the reasons that I had trouble with loose spokes and a cracked rim last year was because I went down and the bike slid down the cement river bank and took a free fall about 6 feet into an open section where a larger drain is cut out. I was being polite and going around a group of horses and hit some sand. Also, last year I was carrying 30 pounds of battery. 13 pounds in the handle bar bag, 17 pounds in the triangle. Now it is just 18.5 pounds in the triangle. This year I did not go down even though I got caught in the rain twice.

The battery (180 samsung 22p 18650/12p, 15s) is still in almost perfect balance. The case is working great too. I have close to 200 cycles and near 5000 miles. I plan to start out next year with the same setup. My power supply chargers are set at 62.6v HVC. It takes about 2 hours to reach 63 (from 62.6) so a timer has been working fine to shut it off. I am looking at a few BMSs and might experiment with one for charging.

I almost made it the whole year without a flat but I hit a nail a few weeks back on the way home. This might look familiar.



View attachment 2
I have not had a flat in my front tire for over 2 years.

******************
Today was my 3 year anniversary of my first 500w communte, so I decided to charge the 3 year old, 10000+ mile, ping over night and see how it would the 25 mile commute into work on my last day. I threw an old 5Ah,15s hobby king pack in the back bag just in case the ping did not get me over the hill. The ping worked great along with the 500w kit. I got home with no trouble (25 miles also). Here are some pictures.


Here is a better view.



I have some projects planned for this summer and will report more later.

 

[The fingers]

Before the freeways were built, the whole river bottom was sand, rocks, bushes and trees. It was a great place to ride bikes and horses when we were kids. After they cemented it in, we rode home made skateboards down the sides until the cops chased us out. We got to ride our bikes on the freeway before it was opened to traffic, an experience which I will never forget; and most all of us had a Varsity or two once we outgrew the old Sting Ray. The farther up the SG River trail you go the better it gets. I haven't been way up there in a long time, thanks for sharing the photos.

 

[windtrader]

Thanks for the update. Your ongoing blog is really a gem here as it condenses so much practical experience in one place. One wanting the entire story of a daily, year over year, ebike commuter has to mark this as a must read.

Once you tested and built the battery pack, it has not had any bad cells? Where did you get those batteries? Would you do anything different on the assembly, the spot welder, connectors, etc.?

 

[mcintyretj]

Update 6/1/15

More on my 12p, 15s battery made with Samsung 22p 18650s

Last summer I read everything I could find on the different 18650 batteries. I also looked at purchasing 15, Turnigy 500mAh 5s, 20c to make a 15s, 5p, 25Ahr pack. The current commuter battery pack, with an assortment of 1 and 2 year old Turnigy 6s and 3s units, was getting quite a few cliff divers and the risk was starting to outweigh the reward of being able to charge at 1c. These are what I considered the best value:

• Panasonic CGR18650CH, 2200mAh & 10A continuous @ $4.70 shipped
• Samsung ICR18650-30A, 3000mAh & 6A Max @ $3.80 shipped
• Samsung ICR18650 22P, 2200mAh & 10A continuous @ $3.50 shipped
• 15 Turnigy 5000mAh 5s, 20c Lipo @ 39.20 each plus shipping (about $900.00)

I decided on the 22p and pulled the plug and Ali-express and, about 2 weeks later, I had 2 large boxes on my front porch. Since I had a working 787a battery tab welder, my thought was to work on the battery whenever i had free time during the summer. I did not plan to do any testing other than the first reading. After ordering, I found a few 22p fire videos on YouTube, so I tested 1 cell to 6 volts and down to 1.5 a few times. At 4v I bounced it down the stairs and dropped it from the balcony a few times with no issues but I have not used it since.

My 787a welder did not have enough power to weld .15 nickel strips so I decided to just use the provided .10 strips. The original plan was to do straight welds then cross welds like this:


However, once the welder stopped working correctly, and since the MacGyver fix caused me much anxiety when welding, I stopped with just the straight welded tabs with a few reinforcements where required. Today I took the tape off the pack, ½ at a time, and checked on all the welds. 2 tabs pulled off so I had to break out the welder and reattach the tabs. I know that welding in the center of the negative end is not a good idea, but this welder has barely enough power to get the tab to stick. Here are some pictures from earlier today:









View attachment 3






The first cell was jumping between 3.68 & 3.69 and cell 2 was doing the same between 3.67 & 3.68

The Battery has about 5000 miles and several 35+ mile one way commutes. I have not run it past 54v (3.6 a cell) resting but it has sagged down to 50v going over the hill in the morning. I charge it to about 62.7v for each commute. On the way home it is usually much warmer so I do not worry about range or sag. Also, I have not manually balanced the pack yet but it is starting to get 0.02v of separation between the high and low cells. For now I plan to continue with the same battery set-up (blue tape, aluminum box) but a cop suggested I paint the case black so it would not stick out as electric.

I will test my 3y old ping battery later this week to see how the range compares with the last 2 years.

 

[mcintyretj]

3 year update/review Ping 48v, 15Ahr battery

I think I got about 35 miles on my first test ride in the summer of 2012

Today I had some free time so I put the 500w bike with the ping on the charger and let it top off for an hour (59v) or so and clunked the bike down the stairs for a distance/rang test. It was 75 degrees f when I started with light winds. 31.2 miles later the battery bottomed out at about 42.0 volts. I also had to peddle due to the number of riders out on the road and bike path. Probably 50% of the time. Here is the data from my bike app:







I have documented this battery's use over three years and have exceeded it's limits a lot, both during use and charging. This was my first battery and I am very happy with the performance. I expected it to die last year when on my 1000w bike (which I believe has a 30amp controller).

Also, power supplies seem to work fine on a Ping (no climbing voltage) for charging. Here are a few of the chargers/power supplies that are still working I have used for charging these last 3 years:


From Right to left: 1. Ebay DC toDC converter (w/12v supply), 2. yescom 1000w kit supplied charger, 3amps, 3. MeanWell NES 350-48, 6Amps, 4. Aliexpress RoHS S-350-60, 5.8Amps, 5. Aliexpress JDC S-400-60, 6.5Amps, 6. $30.00 ebay king pan charger adjusted from 13s, 7. Yescom 500w supplied charger, 2 amps.

I think I paid $45.00 for one of the power supplies. The rest were between $18.00 and $35.00. The yescom chargers do not balance the pack but shut off when they reach about 59v which is fine if you are on the go.

Only worked 1 day this summer. I plan to use the 1000w kit when school starts up on August 4th

 

[markz]

Where did you buy your 22P's from?

Last summer I read everything I could find on the different 18650 batteries. I also looked at purchasing 15, Turnigy 500mAh 5s, 20c to make a 15s, 5p, 25Ahr pack. The current commuter battery pack, with an assortment of 1 and 2 year old Turnigy 6s and 3s units, was getting quite a few cliff divers and the risk was starting to outweigh the reward of being able to charge at 1c. These are what I considered the best value:

• Panasonic CGR18650CH, 2200mAh & 10A continuous @ $4.70 shipped
• Samsung ICR18650-30A, 3000mAh & 6A Max @ $3.80 shipped
• Samsung ICR18650 22P, 2200mAh & 10A continuous @ $3.50 shipped
• 15 Turnigy 5000mAh 5s, 20c Lipo @ 39.20 each plus shipping (about $900.00)

I decided on the 22p and pulled the plug and Ali-express and, about 2 weeks later, I had 2 large boxes on my front porch. Since I had a working 787a battery tab welder, my thought was to work on the battery whenever i had free time during the summer. I did not plan to do any testing other than the first reading. After ordering, I found a few 22p fire videos on YouTube, so I tested 1 cell to 6 volts and down to 1.5 a few times. At 4v I bounced it down the stairs and dropped it from the balcony a few times with no issues but I have not used it since.

 

[mcintyretj]

Markz,

I got the 200 22p from this supplier:

I think the Samsung 25r 18650s are now under $3.00. Compared to Hobby King lipos, the 22p sags a lot. I should have gone with the 25r but at $4.50 each (last summer), they were just out of my price range.

Also, my experience is that chargers and power supplies that are packaged well, usually last longer.

********************
Been riding the 500w bike this summer along with my road bike. In two weeks I start work (August 4th) and need to get the 1000w bike working.

I have been having an issue with the 1000w bike. While exerting force on the peddles, the bike was clicking/clacking so loud, joggers were ducking for cover when I rode by. I noticed the crank axel was a little loose, so I tighten it up and it seemed to work for a few miles, then the noise came back even worse. Next, I took the whole crank assembly apart and biked to three different bike shops looking for replacement ball bearings but could not find any. Apparently, they now just sell whole crank units. So a purchased one for $29.00 and put it on the bike. It did not help with the clacking, so I figured it was coming from the rear 6 speed cassette. Here are some photos:




I decided to take the 6 speed cassette off my extra 500w motor and replace the one on my 1000w bike, but could not get it off. The axel is too wide for my tool and banging it with a hammer/screwdriver did not get any movement. I am not a good bike mechanic. I was kind of stuck, however, yesterday while I was dropping supplies at my classroom, I called yescomusa.com to see if they had any 1000w rear kit in stock. Luckily they had one kit and a few minutes later,I picked it up for $230.00 cash. I could have gotten it for $180.00 if I brought the Ebay price/ad with me. This cut into my battery budget so I hope my current pack will last a while.

The new1000w kits are about the same. The controller is a little different along with the paint job. I do not like how visible the "1000W 48V" is etched into the motor.



The freewheel/6 speed cassette seemed stuck to the case. After playing with it for a few minutes, I could see that there was no space between the motor case and the cassette so it could not spin. I decided to file of the paint and some of the aluminum and that did the trick.




Also, I still had to remove the housing/connector, change the washer setup, and add rim tape.





So, I threw the new motor on the 1000w bike (did not replace anything else) and went for a test ride and still had the click/clank sound! I was slightly frustrated

Started playing with the derailer, adjusting the screws, and that seemed to do the trick. The chain looks shot so I plan to replace that and will probably put the old motor back on later.


********************
This summer I cleaned up my balcony and purchased a motorcycle cover on ebay. Our condo association rules prohibit bicycles on balconies so I need a way to hide the bikes. I have been using more than my fair share of the living room with my ebike stuff the last few years.




Speaking of extra stuff. If anyone wants some 26 x 1.75 tires, heavy metal racks, or yescom rack bags, I have been trying to give this stuff away. PM me if you are interested.


********************
My hobby king 25ah pack has been sitting in a tool box for the last 9 months. I opened it up and checked the balance. Its almost the exact same as it was when I stored it 9 months ago.




The bike path is getting more crowed and more bikers recognize my motor (cheating), so I am thinking of a stealthier setup for the future. Maybe a light carbon hybrid bike with a BB02 mid drive. I have a few more years before I can retire and the thought of spending 2 hours a day in traffic is unbearable.

 

[2old]

Great thread; really interesting.
1) You can purchase the bearings for your old bottom bracket from Wheels Manufacturing Just get the right size balls and put them in loosely with grease. Then, you'll have an extra.
2) I drilled out the tool for the freewheel, or I think Amazon has one (Park maybe) with a big enough hole. If possible, put the tool in a vise and turn the wheel.
3) Just as well that you changed the chain. A worn chain frequently skips with a new freewheel and vice versa.

 

[mcintyretj]

Thanks 2old. I found a tool for the freewheel that had a bigger hole at a local bike store for $5.00 but it was just a little too small. Worked it with a round file until I could get it on. Still needs more filing but I do not need it just yet.

500 mile update on the new 1000w motor.

Started work on August 4th and have 500 total miles on the new motor. I did not put on the new controller so I am using the same 2 yr old, 16000+ mile controller. The only change is the hub motor. Still the same $30.00 bike, throttle, battery...

I decided to paint the battery case a flat black so it would not stick out so much.


Also changed some of the velcro straps to get a cleaner look.

View attachment 3
Here is the bike today coming home.

The new 1000w motor looks and weights the same, however, 6 miles out on my first ride to work, while going under the 91 freeway, I noticed that i was at 61 volts at a spot where I would be happy with 59.5. After 2 weeks of commuting, I estimate that the new motor is about 20% more efficient. I expect this to drop slowly but I did lower the HVC of my power supplies/chargers down from 62.7 to 62.0. I do not need to watch that closely at the end of charging. The pack is still in perfect balance. The spokes on the new hub are still tensioned correctly and the rim is true. It is nice not to have to tighten spokes before every ride. The last ride I did on the old hub was a 40 mile out and back ride that averaged close to 25 mph (with peddling). I started at 63v and ended at 52.8v resting. The voltage drop curve was nice and flat during the last few miles so I am confident that I could get close to 50 miles with the new motor and the same conditions.

********************

Got about 9000 miles from my front tire. This is what it looked like on Monday.

View attachment 2
I had a new tire ready and just plopped the same tube and tube liner in. I have never gotten a front tire flat with this bike so the tube is probably from April, 2013. Got about 4 ounces of slime in there. Probably a record tube for me. I have gotten about 6 rear tire flats in the last 3 years (3 were on the same day). Those take longer to fix and are no fun so I change out my back tires much sooner.

My rear blinker/light is also about 3 years old. While packing up for work one night I noticed I had left my back light on and the batteries were dead. My choice was to run the mile or so to the store and buy some new AA batteries, or I could solder some old laptop batteries on and just zip tie it to the rear rack. I had extra mini usb chargers laying around too. This took less than an hour to construct:





I made one for the front later with a 99 cent bike light and 2 18650s but the switch broke after a year. Now I have the blue LED Harbor Fright light.

I will update my power supplies and chargers later

 

[anoNY42]

I love this thread, very interesting.

Just a note on the freewheel tool, I use a Shimano HG37 freewheel and found that the DNP Epoch freewheel tool has a large enough hole to fit my hub motor's 14mm axle and makes taking off the freewheel easy. No filing required.

 

[mcintyretj]

I just wanted to thank everyone for the tips. Saved me lots of time and headaches.

I have 46 commutes so far this year, closing in on 2500 miles for the school year. Thats about 6500 miles on the battery. The new 1000w hub is still more efficient but I know temperature also effects range and it has been hot here in southern California. Yesterday, I left home with a 62.4v battery and arrived at school with a 55.6v. It was 75 degrees when I left home. My first ride in November 2014 with the same battery and old 1000w hub motor, I left home with a 63.0 volt battery and arrived at school with a 54.9 volt battery but it was about 45 degrees when I left home in the morning. I can't say the battery has gained capacity, but I can say after 300 cycles, the range is closer to 100% than 80% as stated in the Samsung IRC 18650-22P data sheet. I have not had to do any manual balancing yet (knock on wood). Here is the levels this morning after a 25 mile ride at about 25 mph yesterday(I left school at 62.6v).








Since I made a 12p battery, I did not worry about heat because I figured the battery was rated at 3c and I would be peaking at around 0.6c. My biggest concern was shorting and space. I decided just to put 2 layers of electric tape on each end and use hot glue. The positive end I extend past the lip to furter protect the positive from shorting to the negative. So far so good.






The meanwell power supplies have been working wonderfully to charge each evening and morning. I use a timer now for each charge, 1.5 hours in the evening, 1.5 hours in the morning and topping off at 62.4/62.5 volts. They have been laying on the floor for the last 6 months.


these were very easy to set up. I just paralleled the inputs:


The outputs are just in series:



Also, When I changed out a broken break cable, I accidentally pulled off the wire to my 3 year old volt meter and I rode for about 2 weeks before I had time to fix it. I just use velcro to attach it.


My battery is attached the same way. Gravity and velco do the job.


It takes me about 5 seconds to get the battery off the bike, which might not be a good thing.

Also, this past summer I went to a home owners meeting (I own a small condo) and a few people that lived in my building were complaining that at random times during the day their lights would flicker. They wanted an electrician to check the wiring in the building. Most likely it was me using my modified welder repairing tool packs. I know the lights in my unit flickered when I used the welder. So, I decided to retire the welder and purchased a welder from riba for my next battery build. Hopefully I will not need it until next summer.

 

[mcintyretj]

I have just under 4000 miles on the new motor which comes to 79 x 50 mile computes on the bike and 10 days driving this semester. 8 of those driving days were because my 2 year streak of not going down on the bike came to an end on a day where the ground was 95% dry and I injured my leg. The bike was fine but I was hobbling for a few days and could not ride safely. Not sure how you guys in the north and east commute in the rain but I usually just drive at the chance of rain here. My front tire started to slip and I ended in the soft dirt out of control when I over corrected. Here is the dangerous part of my route and me sitting by the road waiting for a ride home (I called in sick to work).



Earlier I changed out my bike seat which I feel is one of the most important choices for commuters. My preferred seat is this soft foam seat from Target or Kmart for about $25.00. The one on the left has about 20,000 miles of wear.


My 13 month old battery pack has about 9,000 miles and 360 cycles. My plan was to start construction on a new pack this holiday break but it still has more than 90% capacity so I will wait until this summer. I have seen the samsung 22P for $1.68 (cost me $3.50) each on aliexpress. Here are some current prices.


I have been keeping busy fixing and converting scooters and old hand tool to lipo.



I pulled out my back-up pack and it is still at the same voltage as I left it 13 months ago.


Also got my first flat when taking a new route home one night through an industrial area with lots of construction. Hooked a big piece of metal with the back tire. I really love the double kick stand.


While I was fixing the flat, I noticed that the plastic on the phase wires had burned and melted off all the wires (maybe when I went down?). The connections did not connect anymore so I cut them off and replaced them with andersons. This will make my next flat easier to fix.


Here is a picture from last month.


Been riding the 500w bike a lot and will report on that in the spring.

 

[Paderolis]

Very cool and informative thread! I have been very pleased with my own YescomUSA kit, I've only had it for a little over a year but it has performed great! Mine is all black though, it doesn't have the spiral design. I have been fortunate enough not to have any flats, but the rear tire will need replacing in the very near future. I only use mine in PAS mode and it rarely sees level 4 or 5, so it may have a little to do with my success so far.

 

[gmihestean]

I think i have the same 48v 1000w kit as you. Could you post a picture on your connectors from your throttle to your controller? I have the 3 LED thumb throttle, and it i has one 3 pin connector and two 2 pin connectors. I can find the 3 pin connector very easily, but i cant find the other two pin connectors on my controller with the same colors. I tried hooking up the brown/yellow connector to the red/black 2 pin connector on my controller and the entire wire down the controller melted . I replaced both wires but now im not sure which wires connect to my throttle, the manual only shows the 3 pin connector going to a twist throttle without the 3 LED display, which i DONT have, once again i have the controller with the 3 LEDs and show FULL, HALF, EMPTY, and i think that is standard on these kits.

Here is a picture of my throttles connectors: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=183134
Here is the result of trying the red/black wire:
Here is all my controllers connectors after i replaced the melted wires:

 

[markz]

Dont throttles just have 2 wires?

 

[gmihestean]

Dont throttles just have 2 wires?

Here is a picture from elifebike.com of the same throttle that i have, but NOT the same controller. Once again that is NOT my controller, i am using the picture from elifebike.com as an example. My throttle has 3 connectors, 7 total wires. Two of the connectors are 2 pin and one of the connectors is a 3 pin.

 

[wesnewell]

IIRC your throttle came with a 36V system, meaning the leds in it are for, well, a 36V battery. Don't hook up that connector at all. Even if it doesn't blow the leds, it will never show a low battery if you hook up a 48v battery pack to it. The brown/yellow connector normally goes to the controller on/off circuit. If your controller has one of these circuits, and i'd assume most do, you'll need to hook it up for the motor to work. And the button has to be in the out position to be on. Pushed in is off. Which throws some people. I have several of the same throttles but don't use anything but the 3 wire throttle control, since I use an 88.8V battery pack, and just didn't care about having an on/off switch. I always disconnect the battery when not riding anyway.

 

[gmihestean]

IIRC your throttle came with a 36V system, meaning the leds in it are for, well, a 36V battery. Don't hook up that connector at all. Even if it doesn't blow the leds, it will never show a low battery if you hook up a 48v battery pack to it. The brown/yellow connector normally goes to the controller on/off circuit. If your controller has one of these circuits, and i'd assume most do, you'll need to hook it up for the motor to work. And the button has to be in the out position to be on. Pushed in is off. Which throws some people. I have several of the same throttles but don't use anything but the 3 wire throttle control, since I use an 88.8V battery pack, and just didn't care about having an on/off switch. I always disconnect the battery when not riding anyway.

Oh i never thought about the throttle itself, i was thinking you could used them at 36v or 48v like most of the controllers. I do have a throttle that came with my my new 48v 1000w controller, but it looked the same so i didn't bother changing it on the bike. My controller ran fine with the 48v battery for a few seconds of testing it full throttle, its only when i switched the battery down to my 36v that something shorted immediately after i pushed the throttle.

Anyways i am looking for budget 3 wire throttle so i don't have to connect those annoying ignition and led connectors that i am worried will short again. Is there a throttle you can recommend? I was looking at this one that's all over ebay however i found reviews on amazon that worries me whether or not this would be safe to use. http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Black-Electric-Scooter-Throttle/dp/B00DFVOSKE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451318541&sr=8-1&keywords=ebike+throttle Some people are reporting it breaking and being locked in a single speed or only working in full speed.

 

[wesnewell]

Just don't hook them up. The throttle will work fine by itself. It's just a simple hall sensor.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1312.R1.TR0.TRC0.A0.H1.X.TRS5&_nkw=ebike+thumb+throttle&_sacat=0
If the controller has a 2 wire connector for on/off, you'll just have to short it together to turn the controller on. The controllers I have just have a single wire that needs to go to battery pack voltage to turn it on. If you want, you can put a switch in the circuit. I don't.

 

[gmihestean]

Just don't hook them up. The throttle will work fine by itself. It's just a simple hall sensor.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1312.R1.TR0.TRC0.A0.H1.X.TRS5&_nkw=ebike+thumb+throttle&_sacat=0
If the controller has a 2 wire connector for on/off, you'll just have to short it together to turn the controller on. The controllers I have just have a single wire that needs to go to battery pack voltage to turn it on. If you want, you can put a switch in the circuit. I don't.

I tried using only the 3 pin connector for the throttle but it doesn't work. The two pin connector with the brown/yellow wires is the ignition switch. So i just take the two pin connector off on the throttle end, and splice the brown and yellow wires together? So then at the end i should be able to connect only the 3 pin connector to my controller and the throttle should work?

 

[wesnewell]

No. Shorting the y/b from the throttle will do nothing. You have to short the 2 wires they go to on the controller. Just make sure you short the right 2 wires, and not the 2 wires that would go to the led connector. They are battery pack voltage and shorting them will melt the wires. Check with a dvm first. If you don't have one and know how to use it, you shouldn't even be messing with this.

 

[gmihestean]

No. Shorting the y/b from the throttle will do nothing. You have to short the 2 wires they go to on the controller. Just make sure you short the right 2 wires, and not the 2 wires that would go to the led connector. They are battery pack voltage and shorting them will melt the wires. Check with a dvm first. If you don't have one and know how to use it, you shouldn't even be messing with this.

Ahah! you were right! When i measure the black and red wire that i originally hooked up to the ignition switch (yellow/brown) and melted i get 56.5v! That's why the wires melted. I found a photo of the right connector from my controlor that needs to connect to the igintioin switch (Yellow/brown). The connector has three wires red,green, and black, but my ignition (yellow/brown) only has two and i can't figure out which wires are connected from the picture. I took some voltage readouts on the three pin connector on my controller box, maybe you can tell which two wires i need to short, or connect my ignition (yellow/brown) connector to. (Black+Red=4.7v) (B+G=.01v)(G+R=3.54v)

 

[wesnewell]

My guess is that the small connector with r/g/b wires is for pas and not for the ignition switch. If the motor runs without connecting that connector, then it's not an ignition switch connector. You could trace the wires back into the controller and see where they go. That may give you some idea of what they are for. Your best bet is to ask someone that has that model of controller, because I'm just guessing from experiences with other controllers.