Your Creation's Before & After Pics
- Thread starter xyster
- Start date
docnjoj
1 GW
Wow! Did U build the space frame?
otherDoc
otherDoc
Drunkskunk
100 GW
Nice bike. Almost looks like a downhiller with the geometry and chain clearance on the rear arm, but the seat stay comes up too high for a true DH. What is it?
steveo
100 kW
fvdm said:
How fast? battery pack?
Very cool, very light build
-steveo
disndat
100 W
Ebike version 2-specs 5304 on 20"rear with 72v9ah of A123s,full suspension gary fisher"king fisher" bike with 3" chopper tires on both the front and rear.Sorry for the bad pic-its camera phone 
docnjoj
1 GW
Wow disndat! That is really cool! Did U have to use special rims to mount the 3" tires and what brand(s) of rims and tires. I may not need a front suspension with tires like that!
otherDoc
otherDoc
disndat
100 W
Thanks doc-I got the rims from ypedal(he has tons of them-so getting more wont be a problem).No problems fitting the tries-I think I can actually go to 3.45 tires if I wanted.
docnjoj
1 GW
They make 3.45x20 tires 
?
otherDoc
?otherDoc
disndat
100 W
The biggest I've seen that is easy to get is 4.00 x 20
Doctorbass
100 GW
Today I replaced my rear tire for a 24 x 2.30 trial style.. pretty satisfyed of the result.. more smooth and silent.. my old rear tire was a 1.95.. and had a flat.. another one... out of 8 !
3 or 4.00" tires seems pretty big!! ..
I also mooded the motor side cover adaptor to take a 8" disk and alse i welded it instead of using screw.. they had suffer of torsion.. so now with 4 large tack of weld it should stay in place!
While my side cover was removed I also toke this occasion to install a thermometer inside the motor stator to monitor the temp when driving hard offroad with many stop and go...
I measured 164 degree C !! using 2.5kW average!! that proove that i was right about having used kapton tape inside to fix the probe on the stator!
here aree some pics from now:
3 or 4.00" tires seems pretty big!!
..I also mooded the motor side cover adaptor to take a 8" disk and alse i welded it instead of using screw.. they had suffer of torsion.. so now with 4 large tack of weld it should stay in place!
While my side cover was removed I also toke this occasion to install a thermometer inside the motor stator to monitor the temp when driving hard offroad with many stop and go...
I measured 164 degree C !! using 2.5kW average!!
that proove that i was right about having used kapton tape inside to fix the probe on the stator!here aree some pics from now:
Microbatman
1 kW
disndat said:Ebike version 2-specs 5304 on 20"rear with 72v9ah of A123s,full suspension gary fisher"king fisher" bike with 3" chopper tires on both the front and rear.Sorry for the bad pic-its camera phone
Nice bike!!
Very cool
What brand of tires are those? Where did you buy them?
markcycle
10 kW
Doc when the winding is at 167C what is the case temperature?
167C is really hot. I'm impressed that the motor doesn't burn up
Mark
167C is really hot. I'm impressed that the motor doesn't burn up
Mark
disndat
100 W
I got the tries and tubes from a place called chopper us in california.
167C is hot enough to fry the hall sensors!
Next we need the temperature probe to connect to the controller to automatically reduce the current limit when it gets too hot.
Next we need the temperature probe to connect to the controller to automatically reduce the current limit when it gets too hot.
Doctorbass
100 GW
fechter said:
I agree about the Hall sensor.. it may be a miracle.. or coming from a batch that is stronger than normal
During my normal ride yesterday night , the outdoor temp was around 15 Celsius and the avg speed of 48kph the sensor indicated a mean of 97 degree C and i was surprized that the motor case temp was like 55 degree C and i was able to touch it without feeling any burn.
I'll investigate more about the temp in the next days.
Here is a pic of the temp BBQ sensor location (note that the thin wire are insulated with ground shield to avoid interference with the magnetic induction of the motor.
It appear that using a BBQ temp sensor is the key... they can measure roasted stuff :lol: even if that happen...
Attachments
lazarus2405
10 kW
The Kelly controllers have exactly that feature. You can wire a temperature probe and program in what threshold temperature and what action to take when it is reached.
Hmm....
rgody
100 mW
Doctorbass : 167 Degree near winding !!!
Here you have an insulation classs table
Class A (105 °C)
Class E (120°C)
Class B (130 °C)
Class F (155 °C)
Class H (180 °C)
link : http://www.frsfco.utn.edu.ar/cideme/tema7.htm (in spanish)
I recomend to measure temperature as close as winding you can.
The enamel must be Class H . If not you are decreasing the life of your motor.
Rodrigo
http://www.movielectric.cl
Viña del Mar - Chile
Here you have an insulation classs table
Class A (105 °C)
Class E (120°C)
Class B (130 °C)
Class F (155 °C)
Class H (180 °C)
link : http://www.frsfco.utn.edu.ar/cideme/tema7.htm (in spanish)
I recomend to measure temperature as close as winding you can.
The enamel must be Class H . If not you are decreasing the life of your motor.
Rodrigo
http://www.movielectric.cl
Viña del Mar - Chile
Doctorbass
100 GW
Puting the temp sensor close to the winding is a great idea for precise temp measurement.. but i wanted to avoid induction of the motor magnetic field into the sensor wires.. so i located it at another place.
The topic link about temp and graph is nice!
I carefully watch the winding resistance in miliohm acuracy to know it state and it keep restsiance value very stable from many month.. it seems that the winding is ok on all 3 phases.
X5 motor are heavy.. but that's a great quality to have for heat dissipation.. massive casing help!..
The delta T between the winding and the ext case sems to vary depending if you run it or not... so i consider that if you do a hard ride and then stop and keep it stopped, the delta T will decrease and the ext case temp will increase.. but if you run it, the delta T increase due to the wind that cool it..
Watercooling it appear a hard project cause it have not really place to put the IN and OUT tube.. but the middle of thewinding armature appear to have enough room to put some cooper tubing around it. maybe tube of 1/8" could pass close to the wire and bearing but no more...
Doc
The topic link about temp and graph is nice!
I carefully watch the winding resistance in miliohm acuracy to know it state and it keep restsiance value very stable from many month.. it seems that the winding is ok on all 3 phases.
X5 motor are heavy.. but that's a great quality to have for heat dissipation.. massive casing help!..
The delta T between the winding and the ext case sems to vary depending if you run it or not... so i consider that if you do a hard ride and then stop and keep it stopped, the delta T will decrease and the ext case temp will increase.. but if you run it, the delta T increase due to the wind that cool it..
Watercooling it appear a hard project cause it have not really place to put the IN and OUT tube.. but the middle of thewinding armature appear to have enough room to put some cooper tubing around it. maybe tube of 1/8" could pass close to the wire and bearing but no more...
Doc
rgody
100 mW
I have 2 concerns :
1 ) max temperature in windigs
2) max temperature in magnets . Remember curie point (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curie_point)
I think the best is to ask manufacturer for winding H insulation class and best courie point performance in magnets.
I have an Idea but no time to work on it. There is an inexpensive 12V thermoelectric car cooler . See this picture link :
May be if somebody can disarm this system can install cool part inside the motor just connected via hub by 2 wires.
Off course all deppend on I2R in winding and the efficiency of cooler system.
Regards
Rodrigo
http://www.movielectric.cl
1 ) max temperature in windigs
2) max temperature in magnets . Remember curie point (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curie_point)
I think the best is to ask manufacturer for winding H insulation class and best courie point performance in magnets.
I have an Idea but no time to work on it. There is an inexpensive 12V thermoelectric car cooler . See this picture link :
May be if somebody can disarm this system can install cool part inside the motor just connected via hub by 2 wires.
Off course all deppend on I2R in winding and the efficiency of cooler system.
Regards
Rodrigo
http://www.movielectric.cl
rgody
100 mW
I forgot thermoelectric cooler links
http://www.nextag.co.uk/thermo-electric-cooler/zzukzB1z43--stores-html
http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/1998-05/895429513.Ph.r.html
Pleas google for "12V thermoelectric cooler"
Regards
Rodrigo
http://www.movielectric.cl
http://www.nextag.co.uk/thermo-electric-cooler/zzukzB1z43--stores-html
http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/1998-05/895429513.Ph.r.html
Pleas google for "12V thermoelectric cooler"
Regards
Rodrigo
http://www.movielectric.cl
Doctorbass
100 GW
rgody said:
Thermoelectric cooler use Pelletier device that draw alot of current to pump the heat from one side to the other of that device.
I think to draw 300W + of heat that would take a large pelletier that could draw large power.. so i think this is not very efficient... simple.. but not efficient...
cooling a hub motor with efficiency would be to use watercooling with low power pump or fins installed on the center of the motor... ...
HAL9000v2.0
10 kW
Just found this post. Nice to see that is nothing wrong with my x5.
Regarding the interference between sensor and motor magnetic field; only the ac component will be inducted in sensor wires and it can be easily filtered. I installed additional NiCr sensor; just to fine tune the NTCs...
For now cooling is the main problem on my bike. If I can sort this out good then the x5 will be quite close to perm or etek motors.
Regarding the interference between sensor and motor magnetic field; only the ac component will be inducted in sensor wires and it can be easily filtered. I installed additional NiCr sensor; just to fine tune the NTCs...
For now cooling is the main problem on my bike. If I can sort this out good then the x5 will be quite close to perm or etek motors.
snowcrow
100 W
Can't say I like the water cooled electric motor idea, but the cooling fins around the motor sounds good! It may create an issue with lacing the hub if the hole pattern is not taken into account. What about small fins clipped between the spokes, close to the hub below where the spokes cross, creating a fanning effectDoctorbass said:
They could be made out of any light weigh material, even cloth 8) What do you think ? Blessings, Snow CrowSimilar threads
