nice to see you got it running!
district9prawn wrote: ↑
Oct 10, 2018 8:48 am
I had similar problems to madin. My motor was not factory balanced and had a ton of vibration. I managed to balance the motor with by adding trial weights to the outside of the can. I don't know if the stock bearings were bad or if the vibration damaged them, but they quickly developed some play, even before I had actually ridden the bike. I replaced them with sealed ones.
Yes the unbalanced bell is really annoying.. Kudus that you could fix it by yourself
If one plans to buy such motor (of the 80xx series) you should always ask for that, but they anyway should not ship out motors with that kind of vibrations. We can only hope they learned.
The other thing is if you remove and reinstall the shaft, it could be that balancing is gone. They told me to not do this.
Regarding the bearings i wonder if they were press fitted on your motor?
On mine they were not, which i think could be a problem as well in terms of the radial play. Bearings with normal clearance CN (as you usually get if you buy a bearing) should be installed with a press fit, otherwise there will always be a slight radial play.
If there is a loose bearing seat as it is the case on my 8057, it would be wise to use bearings with C2 clearance, or even better C2 with ABEC5 grade (which are $$).
I'm using the AS5147 rotary encoder as this is supported by the vesc.
Yeah i have seen this. awesome work!
There was also another guy posting pictures in my thread about using an encoder instead of hall's.
Do you think there is an advantage over hall sensors (together with FOC control)?
If one is using trapezoidal 6-step commutation, it is a fact that hall sensors offer accurate enough position, but with FOC where the magnetic field can be applied in any direction, it could make a lot of sense to have finer position resolution..
Do you know more about that?
I had chain drops on my first few rides. The usual alignment and tension problems. After sorting those out I was able to crank the phase amps up to 350. Crazy stuff. Despite being geared so high and with the 4s battery pack in the front box I can still wheelie.
Good to know you can do wheelies at 350A
That makes me believe there is some room above on my conservative 250A setting.
Do you have the 100kv or 75kv motor? Is this a VESC 6 based controller?
btw: with your actual 12/91 redcution yours would be geared even quicker than mine (when including wheel size into the calculation)
Regarding the chain drop i think, at least from the pics, the idler or chain tensioner below the motor could be the problem.
it will worsen the clinch on the small sprocket which could lead to chain jump and chain drop.
If possible, use the largest sprockets you can find or which fit. The more teeth you have on the small sprocket, the less force on the chain, the lower the noise, the longer the lifespan etc..
And make sure everything is aligned properly and doesn't bend (too much) under load.