Tsdz2 firmware open source adapted to vlcd5, vlcd6 and xh18

ok, you haven t less power, i thinck ( must use a wattmeter to be certain ) but as you use a 29' power is better used .

36v motor have straight use, it s better with open source firmware ( egual marcoq or full open source ) but you have less real torque with it than for example a yamaha or bosh motor, the motor is smaller and must run faster with a big reduction ratio to match desired torque, the only solution is using a 36V motor at 48V or a real 48V motor with 14S pack .

it s why i use a 11S pack for novice user or 12S pack on mine with 36V motor .
 
I was using the bare pins without using a HIGO connector. Do you think I can modify this cable to connect the st-link to the engine? It costs only 12 dollars.

HTB1JqsbX.rrK1RkSne1q6ArVVXaw.jpg

HTB1Gd__X5LrK1Rjy1zdq6ynnpXaK.jpg
 
ashrambo said:
I was using the bare pins without using a HIGO connector. Do you think I can modify this cable to connect the st-link to the engine? It costs only 12 dollars.
Click to expand...

It looks like the right connector. Since it is connected to an 8 pin, it most likely has all 6 pins wired which is the only other question mark. Just cut off the 6 pin by the splitter and it is the perfect length. Can you provide a link to that cable?
 
Rydon said:
ashrambo said:
I was using the bare pins without using a HIGO connector. Do you think I can modify this cable to connect the st-link to the engine? It costs only 12 dollars.
Click to expand...

It looks like the right connector. Since it is connected to an 8 pin, it most likely has all 6 pins wired which is the only other question mark. Just cut off the 6 pin by the splitter and it is the perfect length. Can you provide a link to that cable?
Click to expand...
€ 11,98 33%de DESCUENTO | Bollfit envío gratis acelerador 1T2 cable de alambre 1in2 Cable de Bus para tsdz2 eBike de Motor VLCD6 XH18
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/baRBtT1f



Enviado desde mi SM-G950 mediante Tapatalk

 
Hello every one

The inner motor seems to have given upp :(
I manager to order a replacement that Will take some time.

My question is if i connect my old hub motor 36v 350w (hall sensor) to the controller. Will it run normal or i Will be damaging the controller?

I am running the open source firmware V 17

Best regards
 
elem said:
ok, you haven t less power, i thinck ( must use a wattmeter to be certain ) but as you use a 29' power is better used .

36v motor have straight use, it s better with open source firmware ( egual marcoq or full open source ) but you have less real torque with it than for example a yamaha or bosh motor, the motor is smaller and must run faster with a big reduction ratio to match desired torque, the only solution is using a 36V motor at 48V or a real 48V motor with 14S pack .

it s why i use a 11S pack for novice user or 12S pack on mine with 36V motor .
Click to expand...

elem
I have done many experiments over the past days.
With stock firmware installed I can use VLCD5 to show readings from the internal torque sensor. Using digital spring balance I measured Torque Sensor units for each KG force applied to center of pedal. 2 motors give the same values but my wifes motor showed lower torque reading, difference getting bigger with more force..?? I do not know if this shows a fault with her motor or if it is normal for them to be different?
So I put back marcoq software and decided to experiment with the "Pedal Force Sensor Force Per Unit" value in the Configurator.
After many values I found that changing the value to 1.00 made the motor more responsive, her motors now feel the same as mine.
My wife is now happy with the performance.
Yesterday she did 21 miles with no problems.
 
grecoa said:
elem said:
ok, you haven t less power, i thinck ( must use a wattmeter to be certain ) but as you use a 29' power is better used .

36v motor have straight use, it s better with open source firmware ( egual marcoq or full open source ) but you have less real torque with it than for example a yamaha or bosh motor, the motor is smaller and must run faster with a big reduction ratio to match desired torque, the only solution is using a 36V motor at 48V or a real 48V motor with 14S pack .

it s why i use a 11S pack for novice user or 12S pack on mine with 36V motor .
Click to expand...

elem
I have done many experiments over the past days.
With stock firmware installed I can use VLCD5 to show readings from the internal torque sensor. Using digital spring balance I measured Torque Sensor units for each KG force applied to center of pedal. 2 motors give the same values but my wifes motor showed lower torque reading, difference getting bigger with more force..?? I do not know if this shows a fault with her motor or if it is normal for them to be different?
So I put back marcoq software and decided to experiment with the "Pedal Force Sensor Force Per Unit" value in the Configurator.
After many values I found that changing the value to 1.00 made the motor more responsive, her motors now feel the same as mine.
My wife is now happy with the performance.
Yesterday she did 21 miles with no problems.
Click to expand...

Very well grecoa! :thumb:
 
grecoa said:
2 motors give the same values but my wifes motor showed lower torque reading, difference getting bigger with more force..?? I do not know if this shows a fault with her motor or if it is normal for them to be different?
Click to expand...

Thank you for this useful feedback. Does the cranks arm have the same length on both bikes?
Because for a force exerted on the pedal (ex: 10kg therefore 98,0665 Newton) the larger the lever arm, the greater the torque. If the lever arm is 0.25 meters long, the torque will be 24.5N.m if it is 0.3 meters 29.4N.m...
Thus, the more you press the pedal, the greater the distance between the two bicycles, the factor being the length ratio between the two pedals.
 
NIPSEN said:
grecoa said:
2 motors give the same values but my wifes motor showed lower torque reading, difference getting bigger with more force..?? I do not know if this shows a fault with her motor or if it is normal for them to be different?
Click to expand...

Thank you for this useful feedback. Does the cranks arm have the same length on both bikes?
Because for a force exerted on the pedal (ex: 10kg therefore 98,0665 Newton) the larger the lever arm, the greater the torque. If the lever arm is 0.25 meters long, the torque will be 24.5N.m if it is 0.3 meters 29.4N.m...
Thus, the more you press the pedal, the greater the distance between the two bicycles, the factor being the length ratio between the two pedals.
Click to expand...

Yes, all motors are using the crank arms supplied with the motor, so they are all same length.
 
marcoq said:
ashrambo said:
I already solved the problem of the continuous power off with the XH18 display and this firmware, I had to activate the VLCD6 option always on.

No combination of keys works with the XH18 display ...

Another thing that I have changed has been to give more power to the walk assist mode, in the mountains and uphill it has no power, and the problem is that I use this mode when there is a lot of slope and a lot of stone and I need power ....
but although I put high values, I do not see much improvement ... any solution?

my settings
Click to expand...

For more walk assist power increase walk assist current!!! :wink:
Click to expand...
It doesn't work for me. If I want more power I need to change the walk assist pwm level...Changing the walk assist current power % has not effect...

Enviado desde mi SM-G950 mediante Tapatalk


 
It work for me, changed walk assit current directly on the data tab, i m not using configurator for the moment .
Changing walk assit lvl change the speed, cruise fonction disabled .
 
Hi
Has anyone had problems with the wheel speed sensor? I find mine to be a problem. I know that the firmware will not give assistance if wheel speed is not correctly measured.
I have had problems where at low wheel speed the displayed speed goes very high and I think there are times when signal is lost completely.
Distance between sensor and magnet is critical (all suppliers of the TSDDZ2 mention this as an issue), but I have had errors when trying to set the magnet gap very small (2mm) and I have had errors if gap too big. :? What makes this worse is that the spoke magnet (plastic thread) does not fasten very firmly and can easily move on rough ground, which can cause motor assistance to fail. I have tried to use small rubber washers to make it grip more firmly.
I see that this issue has been mentioned on the Casainho thread. The suggested solution to make the system more reliable is to have the firmware look for "pedal cadence" and not "wheel speed".
marcoq, is this something that you are already looking at?
Thank you for all your work.
 
elem said:
It work for me, changed walk assit current directly on the data tab, i m not using configurator for the moment .
Changing walk assit lvl change the speed, cruise fonction disabled .
Click to expand...

I change WALK_ASSIST_PERCENTAGE_CURRENT (30%) directly on the DM but it hasn´t effect. I need to change all STARTUP_MOTOR_POWER_BOOST_ASSIST_LEVEL values. I put high values (>50)

Anyway. I only use my bike on montain, I use 34x11/36 and I think the best ASSIST_LEVEL_FACTOR value for me are:
  • LEVEL 1=40%
  • LEVEL 2=70%
  • LEVEL 3=100%
  • LEVEL 4=130%

I don´t need more than 140% with 34 tooth...It´s very difficult to control the bike with the LEVEL 4 going up...

Another question, Do you hear sounds like creaks when you give pedal? They sound like a problem on the bottom bracket.
 
Ashrambo,
I did have a creaky sound at each pedal rotation which I thought it was coming from the chainring. I thought it was something loose somewhere in the pedal area as I changed the 42T stock chainring initially with a dual 34-42T, then due to bad chain line in my MTB I kept only the 34T.. so I ordered the future bike ergal 30T chainring
( http://www.shop.future-bike.it/futurebikeshop/prodotto/corona-in-ergal-per-active-torque-30t/ )
to avoid the spider bolts and.. surpringly the noise was still there.
It ended up it was coming from the seat post shock adsorber mechanism, to which I give a little torsion each time I pedal.

Tip for a front MTB users: I use the following seat post, which I found excellent (despite the squeaky noise which is perhaps only a isolate issue).
https://www.probikeshop.it/reggisella-cane-creek-thudbuster-lt-arretrato-nero/80819.html

Ciao
 
grecoa said:
elem
I have done many experiments over the past days.
With stock firmware installed I can use VLCD5 to show readings from the internal torque sensor. Using digital spring balance I measured Torque Sensor units for each KG force applied to center of pedal. 2 motors give the same values but my wifes motor showed lower torque reading, difference getting bigger with more force..?? I do not know if this shows a fault with her motor or if it is normal for them to be different?
So I put back marcoq software and decided to experiment with the "Pedal Force Sensor Force Per Unit" value in the Configurator.
After many values I found that changing the value to 1.00 made the motor more responsive, her motors now feel the same as mine.
My wife is now happy with the performance.
Yesterday she did 21 miles with no problems.
Click to expand...

Hi,
can you explain how to show the readings from the internal torque sensor on VLCD5 display ?

Thanks
 
Quick question, can the VLCD6 display the temp sensor value with this firmware ?

I saw min/max temp settings in the configurator, does anyone uses it with success ?
 
vadda said:
grecoa said:
elem
I have done many experiments over the past days.
With stock firmware installed I can use VLCD5 to show readings from the internal torque sensor. Using digital spring balance I measured Torque Sensor units for each KG force applied to center of pedal. 2 motors give the same values but my wifes motor showed lower torque reading, difference getting bigger with more force..?? I do not know if this shows a fault with her motor or if it is normal for them to be different?
So I put back marcoq software and decided to experiment with the "Pedal Force Sensor Force Per Unit" value in the Configurator.
After many values I found that changing the value to 1.00 made the motor more responsive, her motors now feel the same as mine.
My wife is now happy with the performance.
Yesterday she did 21 miles with no problems.
Click to expand...

Hi,
can you explain how to show the readings from the internal torque sensor on VLCD5 display ?

Thanks

It will only work with the stock firmware.
Press and hold "info"+"Pwr" for 10 seconds
Release and press "info" 4 times then menu "rE" should be displayed
Press "Info" again and "rE 1" is displayed
The initial torque value should be displayed at bottom half of screen. This number will rise as force is applied to the pedals.

I have attached a PDF of the VLCD5 manual that has all the instructions.
Click to expand...
 

Attachments

  • VLCD-5 Manual.pdf
    928.7 KB · Views: 326
Oooook,
thanks.

Could you tell me the values ​​you read based on the pressure applied to the pedals?
Just to have some references.
 
vadda said:
Oooook,
thanks.

Could you tell me the values ​​you read based on the pressure applied to the pedals?
Just to have some references.
Click to expand...

Here you go.
I'd be interested to see what you get!
 
ashrambo said:
Rydon said:
ashrambo said:
I was using the bare pins without using a HIGO connector. Do you think I can modify this cable to connect the st-link to the engine? It costs only 12 dollars.
Click to expand...

It looks like the right connector. Since it is connected to an 8 pin, it most likely has all 6 pins wired which is the only other question mark. Just cut off the 6 pin by the splitter and it is the perfect length. Can you provide a link to that cable?
Click to expand...
€ 11,98 33%de DESCUENTO | Bollfit envío gratis acelerador 1T2 cable de alambre 1in2 Cable de Bus para tsdz2 eBike de Motor VLCD6 XH18
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/baRBtT1f



Enviado desde mi SM-G950 mediante Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Have you been able to try this cable? Did it work?
 
NIPSEN said:
ashrambo said:
Rydon said:
ashrambo said:
I was using the bare pins without using a HIGO connector. Do you think I can modify this cable to connect the st-link to the engine? It costs only 12 dollars.
Click to expand...

It looks like the right connector. Since it is connected to an 8 pin, it most likely has all 6 pins wired which is the only other question mark. Just cut off the 6 pin by the splitter and it is the perfect length. Can you provide a link to that cable?
Click to expand...
€ 11,98 33%de DESCUENTO | Bollfit envío gratis acelerador 1T2 cable de alambre 1in2 Cable de Bus para tsdz2 eBike de Motor VLCD6 XH18
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/baRBtT1f



Enviado desde mi SM-G950 mediante Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Have you been able to try this cable? Did it work?
Click to expand...
I received it today, I will cut and I publish photos here.

89bff8a14e44c99bd3d40324ed49edae.jpg
c306e98ce46f003fdd1aff9dcd66a5f9.jpg
3cbeee5f965ddcf664bb00dcbbb3163f.jpg


Enviado desde mi SM-G510 mediante Tapatalk

 
Hello,
Marcoq has released the betaM0.16.D version of its serial Display software, and the new Configurator_Beta_0.2.0, not being the definitive version but only for users of the Italian forum, has mainly implemented l elimination of backward resistance. I have installed it and am running tests at my own risk because the experts on the other post assume that there may be problems burning the MOSSFET, at the moment I can declare that it works well even if from time to time the resistance to the back appears again.
The link for those who want to try it and the one from the Italian forum: http://www.jobike.it/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=76426&whichpage=16
 
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