Controller and battery amps?
- Thread starter rockypro1
- Start date
e-beach
10 MW
Like the man said, it can only deliver 15 amps to the motor. If you change controllers then you must make sure your battery can safely deliver the amps that your controller is outputting. So if your battery is only rated for 20 amps and your controller is 30 amps, you could over heat your battery and have problems.
Go through your system and know what it can handle.
Go through your system and know what it can handle.
markz
100 TW
48V and 15A is 720W which aint much.
Alan B
100 GW
rockypro1 said:
Generally this means that the controller's max drain on your battery will be 15 amps. You will need a battery capable of at least 15 amps continuous, and more would be fine. Some extra available current would be advisable. The controller will not draw more for very long, though it might for very short bursts.
The current delivered to your motor will be greater than the battery current at low speeds, at higher speeds the motor current will equal the battery current. The controller acts as a power converter and produces more output current at low speeds. This output motor current can be several times the battery current at very low speeds where the motor's required voltage is low.
Hi,
Thanks for the replies guys.
The hub I have is a 1000 watts. The controller says its switchable between 250 watts or 100 watts. I'll have to look more into it.
I don't have a clue how to test its rating.
Dose it matter what controller I get? e.g will a controller with out a switchable 250 to 100 watts work. I seen a 48 volt 15 amp battery on Amazon in my price range. When the amps go up they get to expensive for me.
Thanks again, Sean.
Thanks for the replies guys.
The hub I have is a 1000 watts. The controller says its switchable between 250 watts or 100 watts. I'll have to look more into it.
I don't have a clue how to test its rating.
Dose it matter what controller I get? e.g will a controller with out a switchable 250 to 100 watts work. I seen a 48 volt 15 amp battery on Amazon in my price range. When the amps go up they get to expensive for me.
Thanks again, Sean.
Guys would this battery work on my controller for now?. I can always upgrade the controller in the future.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07B2819YT/?coliid=I31KV835YTP9MO&colid=2KY1AMSNHVM76&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
or
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0745J88J8/?coliid=I1KCDD61A903WH&colid=2KY1AMSNHVM76&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
or this one
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B079GZ3G2R/?coliid=IM8AXAQFO2IHO&colid=2KY1AMSNHVM76&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07B2819YT/?coliid=I31KV835YTP9MO&colid=2KY1AMSNHVM76&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
or
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0745J88J8/?coliid=I1KCDD61A903WH&colid=2KY1AMSNHVM76&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
or this one
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B079GZ3G2R/?coliid=IM8AXAQFO2IHO&colid=2KY1AMSNHVM76&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
e-beach
10 MW
Depends. How many volts is your existing battery?
molybdenum
1 kW
rockypro1 said:
If your controller is rated max 15 amps, you need to get a battery that will push at least 15 amps without being overly stressed or your battery will die an early death. It doesn't matter if your battery is rated much higher say 100 + amps. The controller will only take what it needs.
Buy from a reputable dealer with quality Panasonic or Samsung cells.
Alan B
100 GW
A good plan for the future would be to get a battery that could supply a larger current for the controller you would really like to have, not just the one you have now. Just in case you upgrade the controller. Upgrading the battery is not something you want to do later. 30A capable batteries are not uncommon. Your motor can handle that. So a controller upgrade might be in your future, long before the battery is worn out.
e-beach
10 MW
rockypro1 said:
Two of these batteries rate at 35a or 40a maximum continuous discharge. That is what you want to know. The third doesn't seem to mention the contentious discharge rating. I tend to stay from sellers who can't even post the basic information.
Your controller will deliver 15a continuous to the motor under startup, long and/or steep hills and any other condition that makes the motor work. A 15a controller is pretty small around here. If your motor is really 48v at 1000w I would recommend spending a little more money for at least a 30a controller.
You don't have to go fast all the time, but it is nice to have when you need it.
I was not sure about going higher in amps with the battery.molybdenum said:
Its can be all very confusing. controllers with amps, EM3EV Ebike 6 fet 36-72V Infineon Controllers, lcd screens that have speed settings, cycle analyst with more settings lol and I'm sure lots lots more. Its all a learning process.
Would there be much difference between 35a and 40a continuous discharge. As I think there is a 100.00 euro give or take in the price.e-beach said:rockypro1 said:
Two of these batteries rate at 35a or 40a maximum continuous discharge. That is what you want to know. The third doesn't seem to mention the contentious discharge rating. I tend to stay from sellers who can't even post the basic information.
Your controller will deliver 15a continuous to the motor under startup, long and/or steep hills and any other condition that makes the motor work. A 15a controller is pretty small around here. If your motor is really 48v at 1000w I would recommend spending a little more money for at least a 30a controller.
You don't have to go fast all the time, but it is nice to have when you need it.
Alan B
100 GW
Not much difference between 35A and 40A in terms of performance.
With your 15A controller the max battery current would be 15A, but the current delivered to the motor at low speeds will be approximately 2-3 times that, or 30-45A. The controller operates as a DC-DC converter and when the speed is low the output voltage is low, so to transfer the power the current multiplies.
30A is about 1500W which is a good power level for a hubmotor.
Your controller says 1000W in off road mode so that tells us it can draw about 20A at 50V.
With your 15A controller the max battery current would be 15A, but the current delivered to the motor at low speeds will be approximately 2-3 times that, or 30-45A. The controller operates as a DC-DC converter and when the speed is low the output voltage is low, so to transfer the power the current multiplies.
30A is about 1500W which is a good power level for a hubmotor.
Your controller says 1000W in off road mode so that tells us it can draw about 20A at 50V.
e-beach
10 MW
In the "Off road" 26 amp setting all you are going to pull anyway is 26 amps. At 48v that's about 1248 watts. That is fine for most e-bike riding.
A 40 amp continuous battery will not do you much good over a 35 amp continuous battery considering you are limited to a maximum 26 amps to your controller. If you feel that the 35 amp battery is good for you, I say go for it. My only caveat is that I don't know the seller.
Just make sure they have a good reputation before you purchase their goods.
A 40 amp continuous battery will not do you much good over a 35 amp continuous battery considering you are limited to a maximum 26 amps to your controller. If you feel that the 35 amp battery is good for you, I say go for it. My only caveat is that I don't know the seller.
Just make sure they have a good reputation before you purchase their goods.
Hi guys,
Sorry to drive ya's mad again about a battery for my ebike. But I am thinking about getting this one, what do you's think?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Powerful-Triangle-Battery-Electric-Lithium/dp/B01L53G93W/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1523399335&sr=8-5&keywords=ebike+battery+48v
I am just nerves about the customs charges to Ireland.
Sean
Sorry to drive ya's mad again about a battery for my ebike. But I am thinking about getting this one, what do you's think?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Powerful-Triangle-Battery-Electric-Lithium/dp/B01L53G93W/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1523399335&sr=8-5&keywords=ebike+battery+48v
I am just nerves about the customs charges to Ireland.
Sean
e-beach
10 MW
rockypro1 said:
That one seems a little off to me. 26Ah for a battery that size and that price seems too good to be true. If the manufacture will give you guaranteed proof and documentation that the battery is 48v and 26ah, then go with it. Contact them and see if they respond. If they will not give you proper proof, go somewhere else to get your battery.
http://www.ebikes.ca/
https://em3ev.com/
http://www.pingbattery.com/
or build your own with cells from https://eu.nkon.nl/
BTW. lithium cells are the way to go, however, if they are prohibitively expensive in your country, go retro and use motorcycle batteries. They are lead, heavy, will only last 18 - 24 months, but they are affordable.
There is also RC lipo. They are cheaper then other lithium, and have a higher energy density and discharge. They are, however the kind that will catch fire if not handled properly. Treat them right, you will be fine. Treat them wrong, up goes the house.
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/batteries/lipo-batteries-all-brands.html?___store=en_us
e-beach said:rockypro1 said:
That one seems a little off to me. 26Ah for a battery that size and that price seems too good to be true. If the manufacture will give you guaranteed proof and documentation that the battery is 48v and 26ah, then go with it. Contact them and see if they respond. If they will not give you proper proof, go somewhere else to get your battery.
http://www.ebikes.ca/
https://em3ev.com/
http://www.pingbattery.com/
or build your own with cells from https://eu.nkon.nl/
BTW. lithium cells are the way to go, however, if they are prohibitively expensive in your country, go retro and use motorcycle batteries. They are lead, heavy, will only last 18 - 24 months, but they are affordable.
There is also RC lipo. They are cheaper then other lithium, and have a higher energy density and discharge. They are, however the kind that will catch fire if not handled properly. Treat them right, you will be fine. Treat them wrong, up goes the house.
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/batteries/lipo-batteries-all-brands.html?___store=en_us
The same guy is selling the batteries on ebay also.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Risunmotor-48V-26-1AH-Triangle-Frame-Down-Tube-Panasonic-Cell-Li-ion-Battery/232397917640?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D50980%26meid%3D958030ae0f9d49dd98bb7a3caa0a9242%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D232397917640%26itm%3D232397917640&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A53213106-3d67-11e8-b0be-74dbd18008a2%7Cparentrq%3Ab3f2e1cf1620a860caa4bad0fff8c635%7Ciid%3A1 I can ask him on there.
I don't think I can ask on Amazon not that I can see anyway. I'll ask him on ebay see what he says.
The misses reckons that its better to buy it off Amazon, as I've a better come back with them, plus she's got a a bit of stuff off of them over the yrs. But I don't know.
I'd rather flush me money down the toilet that be codded by them. As I've had to sell me good car trailer and save a bit to get this battery. But ding to get it on the road, been out on it a few times and Wheres me power :lol:
No heard horror stories about them lipo's no thanks. also I want to get a good battery and be done with it hate messing around with lead batteries.
Me build Battery not a hope ha.
Do you build them? If you do would you build me one?
Sean
e-beach
10 MW
I took a look look on the ebay site and the specs there are easier to read. This battery is probably what they advertise providing the cells are genuine. His feedback rating is lower then I would like if I were ordering from him. under 99 percent makes me wonder a bit. However eBay responsive to there buyers so I would trust eBay over amazon for that.
The guy on eBay goes by the name of ConhisMotor. Conhis Motor is a big Chinese company that sells e-bike and other types of motors and accessories. They are reputable that way. However I don't see the battery he is selling on the Conhis web site. http://www.conhismotor.com/ProductsList.asp?iPage=1&id=116
My opinion on the matter is if you want that battery, eBay might be stricter on the seller if something goes wrong. Amazon isn't as strickt on their return policy's.
As for building you one, by the time I get new cells, (with the dollar in the tank, cells are expensive around here) build it, and then ship it too you, it would be more expensive by hundreds. I do recommend getting a battery from somewhere else.
The guy on eBay goes by the name of ConhisMotor. Conhis Motor is a big Chinese company that sells e-bike and other types of motors and accessories. They are reputable that way. However I don't see the battery he is selling on the Conhis web site. http://www.conhismotor.com/ProductsList.asp?iPage=1&id=116
My opinion on the matter is if you want that battery, eBay might be stricter on the seller if something goes wrong. Amazon isn't as strickt on their return policy's.
As for building you one, by the time I get new cells, (with the dollar in the tank, cells are expensive around here) build it, and then ship it too you, it would be more expensive by hundreds. I do recommend getting a battery from somewhere else.
999zip999
100 TW
Don't fall for Tesla like cells. Get a certain brand and a certain part number on the cells that way you know if they're going to deliver 5amps 15 amp per cell or a 25 amp per cell
