Sabvoton SVMC072150 controller review, variable regen *PICS*

[minde28383]

It is new for me. After Sabvoton closed I knew nothing. At least manufacturer has a name and website. Hopefully some support too.

 

[hias9]

Never ever received a reply from MQCON. I don't think QS could help me with this.

By the way, did anybody manage to get the old Bluetooth Android app (named "SVMC") working?
The new app (named "MQCON") unfortunately does neither display battery current nor does it display phase current.

 

[ecross]

I am running a SVMC072150 together with a 22S Lipo battery.

I use a second throttle for regen braking. Unfortunately it only starts working when the battery is already down to around 40% (83V).
The Sabvoton shows over 2V higher battery voltage in its software than real battery voltage.

It seems than the Regen voltage limit is somehow connected to parameter "over volt".
I cannot set "over volt" to more than 96V. Does anybody have a firmware on his controller that allows to set "over volt" higher than 96V?
Did anybody try to modify to controller so it shows correct/less voltage?

I also will use a second throttle for regen breaking. Can use 20S or 22S but need for 20S approx. 83V and for 22S approx. 91,30V max. Regen voltage. But first i must have a communication to my PC, some COM select problems.

 

[minde28383]

Don't know exact software nor hardware versions and their numbers.
I found that Sabvoton (Bluetooth compatible) controller manufactured few years ago does not function with Bluetooth adapter manufactured recently. According QS support person things were changed and there is no compatibility. When new Bluetooth adapter is plugged to old Sabvoton controller it does not show any values, all zeros is showed in bluetooth app.

How to recognized old controller from new one without connecting to PC/phone?
Controllers bought few years ago had screwed aviation connector with pins.
Recently bought controllers have wires going straight to controller without any aviation connector.

 

[minde28383]

I am running a SVMC072150 together with a 22S Lipo battery.

I use a second throttle for regen braking. Unfortunately it only starts working when the battery is already down to around 40% (83V).
The Sabvoton shows over 2V higher battery voltage in its software than real battery voltage.

It seems than the Regen voltage limit is somehow connected to parameter "over volt".
I cannot set "over volt" to more than 96V. Does anybody have a firmware on his controller that allows to set "over volt" higher than 96V?
Did anybody try to modify to controller so it shows correct/less voltage?

Of course they will reply to your question. This is without doubt. Just inquiry somebody on duty from QS.

 

[minde28383]

Have you try to contact contact in this print screen?

 

[hias9]

I never received a reply from MQCON.
I will try to contact QS again, but I don't think that they can help me.

What I need is a firmware which does not have this 85V or so regen limit or a hardware mod to manipulate/calibrate measured voltage
Or some kind of solution to make the controller see a lower voltage when E-brake is engaged.

 

[minde28383]

I too have delay getting reply from QS regarding my broken controller.
I'm trying to reach them through their created chat dedicated to solve my issue in ''wechat'' app but no response from them for few days already.

My Sabvoton 72150 controller issue:
controller RED LED always ON
Bluetooth connection not working
PC app connection not working
All fets, capts, etc - OK
I suspect logic error / chip error

 

[leffex]

I have the controller and it works great!!!

I have two questions regarding the sabvoton controller. There's a cable going out from it, kind of called "hall speed meter" or something on my sabvoton SVMC72150 controller. What output signal does it have? rpm? (it is purple I think, kinda thick but not like a phase wire)

Also if anyone knows. If speed could be measured thorugh ONE hall sensor. Does it only need to be connected with one hall. Let's say yellow hall sensor wire and no other cable, postivite or negative or do I need at least one yellow hall and one negative hall to get an output signal to my controller.

In summary I ask
What is the output signal from a hall wire?
What numbers of wires do I need as a minimum and how do I connect this/these wires to only get that signal?

 

[cycborg]

In summary I ask
What is the output signal from a hall wire?
What numbers of wires do I need as a minimum and how do I connect this/these wires to only get that signal?

You may have figured this out, but here's my two cents. On my Sabvoton, for any connector that has a black wire (throttle, halls, comms, reverse, etc.), the black wire is connected internally to B-. So presumably the connectors with only one wire (hall meter, brake H, E-lock) are also referenced to B-.

I don't know exactly what the "hall meter" wire is. I would have assumed it's just connected internally to one of the phases of the hall connector, but this isn't the case. However, most likely it is referenced to B- and it pulses either once per motor pole pair or once per wheel revolution. So to use it as a speed reference, you would take the frequency of this signal and divide by the pole pairs of your motor (or not) to get RPM.

 

[leffex]

In summary I ask
What is the output signal from a hall wire?
What numbers of wires do I need as a minimum and how do I connect this/these wires to only get that signal?

You may have figured this out, but here's my two cents. On my Sabvoton, for any connector that has a black wire (throttle, halls, comms, reverse, etc.), the black wire is connected internally to B-. So presumably the connectors with only one wire (hall meter, brake H, E-lock) are also referenced to B-.

I don't know exactly what the "hall meter" wire is. I would have assumed it's just connected internally to one of the phases of the hall connector, but this isn't the case. However, most likely it is referenced to B- and it pulses either once per motor pole pair or once per wheel revolution. So to use it as a speed reference, you would take the frequency of this signal and divide by the pole pairs of your motor (or not) to get RPM.

I was thinking to use this wire and put it as a phase sensor wire to another controller(controller2) that I use with a display and that controller2 needs input signal for hall so I can se actual speed.

I guess trying to connect one wire won't do any harm and end result may be successful if lucky.

(controller1sabvoton hall sensor, purple wire -> controller two hall sensor input)

Thanks for the answer cycborg

 

[larsrocket]

I too have delay getting reply from QS regarding my broken controller.
I'm trying to reach them through their created chat dedicated to solve my issue in ''wechat'' app but no response from them for few days already.

My Sabvoton 72150 controller issue:
controller RED LED always ON
Bluetooth connection not working
PC app connection not working
All fets, capts, etc - OK
I suspect logic error / chip error

i've also got an sabvoton 72150 which i accidentally got 72v shorted to signal gnd some time ago, managed to get it back working but had to change quite some parts. Swapped a few FETs, all 3 gate drivers, the rs485 transceiver (it didn't allow any communication either but mine only have rs485, no usb or bluetooth, old version) and had some problem with the dcdc which I also got to work again but not sure how.

the red led is power and the green is for error codes if i remember correctly.

 

[minde28383]

Hi larsrocket,
I'm happy you worked it out. You had to replace quite a few parts. Did you did it yourself? It's amazing to have such skills to do repair your self.
I had to send my controller back to qs as I bought it from them. And I'm glad I did so. They found that some chip was broken because of high voltage surge. My local tech support was not able to replace or identify what part is faulty in the controller. I had to pay 13euro shipping fee to china and 42usd shipping fee back to EU. So repair was kinda free I'm happy they fixed it on warranty.

Later I realized that high voltage surge was caused by (big 60v 150A) relay which was installed in my scooter at the time. The thing is with these relays that when coil disconnects contactor, magnetic field generates high voltage surge which travels to controller, therefore some chip cooked. According qs engineer they replaced the chip. I assume if they say that chip (probably OEM) had to be replaced than it's nothing what can be done without having programmed chip specifically for the controller. So it's not like changing fet, cap etc which are common parts. What why local support was not able to find faulty part.
To stop this high voltage surge diode must be used on relay. It's a pity I found it only after.
I've posted my schematic and ES forum member fechter mentioned also that solar barkers can be used as good alternative to relays. Someway I like idea using relay which is activated with ignition key. Only my next project will have diode on relay for sure.
my schematics:
post: Nov 12 2018 8:08pm
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=278&p=1424794&hilit=diode+relay#p1424794

 

[bumpin]

Hi guys! I need your inputs regarding this sabvoton controller i am getting 26 green flashes. Do you have a list or chart that comes with its flash equivalent. Your inputs will be highly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[minde28383]

Look for manual online. In an hour or two I'll to my PC and find it if you won't.

 

[minde28383]

Here you go:

 

[minde28383]

Just fyi controller has usb interface (cable) to which usb dongle can be plugged. It shows error codes on mobile phone screen in Sabvoton OEM mobile app, also it allow to change parameters like amps, cut off etc. It is very useful peace of equipment but it works only with the Sabvoton controller and note that the very early controller versions does not support it.

 

[rockstar195]

Can somebody explain how the regenerative braking works for the Sabvoton? ( I'm about to wire mine. )

Is this correct: First you have to brake manually (wired e-switch connected to lever), then use a throttle type switch (0-5v) to slowly ease in / engage regenerative braking?


And what is the best/comfortable setup on the handlebars to have for regen braking? This guy is using his same acceleration throttle to engage the ebrake:

[youtube]k5GWs38FDws[/youtube]

 

[cycborg]

I'm looking for advice on getting the (non-variable) regen to work. I'd like to set up two levels of braking, with weaker "slide" regen when I release the throttle, and stronger "electric brake" regen when I grab the brake lever.

I have slide regen working fine, but electric brake is having no effect. I suspect there's some single setting that I'm misunderstanding, and hopefully someone who has worked through this can identify it at a glance.

The wire I'm using to activate the brake goes to about 10.8 V when the lever is engaged. I have this connected to the "high brake" input. Counterintuitively, the monitoring program shows this as HIGH without the brake engaged, and LOW with the brake engaged. Don't know if that indicates a problem.

On the "FUNC" settings tab, I've tried enabling "General Brake", "Electric Brake", and both; none of these combinations works. I have the braking phase current set to about 3x the slide current, so I should be able to tell the difference.

Anything stand out here? Anything I should try? Thanks!

 

[rockstar195]

Im still waiting to install my 72150. As I understand it, "electric brake" works by engaging it with the lever (high brake), then using a throttle type switch (0-5) to control how hard you want to stop/brake.

 

[minde28383]

There are different types of brakes. Everything might be called brake.. what ever stops your from being able to ride.

1. High brake 12v.
You press brake lever on handlebars and it cuts off power from controller. And this is called high brake. High brake wire says 12v high so you need to supply 12v to make it work. Need 72v to 12v on your bicycle.

2.
Slide recharge brake.
It is called brake too. You release throttle and controller engages braking by generating resistive braking (charging, pumping amps back to controller/battery) force in the motor. Probably thats what guy is doing in a video above, did not watch it all thoughh...

3.
Regen brake, with second throttle, 0-5v brake so called.
The same as slide regen but more controllable because you can use second second throttle or double roll throttle.
This one is implemented in recent and few years old controllers. You roll second throttle and according controller settings motor stops bike with certain resistance.

There is another type of brake where you leave your bike for example at a shop and this type of brake holds your motor on brake by magnetic force, This is called brake too.

ok, my coffee getting cold.

 

[rockstar195]

Here is the .pdf file that will guide you on how to "Achieve 0-5V E-Brake Function."
Keep us updated.

LINK:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/u14dw5cbjqv9bm6/AADTqFWVqwtCCcKciPl2t4-wa/Special%20function%20optional?dl=0&preview=How+to+achieve+0-5v+e-brake+function.pdf&subfolder_nav_tracking=1

 

[ecross]

Thanks for the .pdf! I`m also playing around with the Regen funktion.
Do you have found a good set-up?

 

[PeeHell]

If my controller has the variable regen wires (red, brown, black), does it mean that the switch brakes (72v on the purple high brake wire) won't work without a second throttle ? Do I have to press the ebrake lever and the turn the second throttle ?
Could I permanently connect the red and brown wire of the variable regen to mimic a full throttle on the regen or it needs to read 5v only once the ebrake levers are pressed ?
A lot of question for something so simple...

 

[minde28383]

I know it's been covered all around but i understand how anybody including my self don't like go all over to look for certain piece of answer... Especially read china english manuals if you know what i mean

Just add some clearification.
It might ve written or your wire or not but orange 72v wire is feeding the controller.

feed controller to power it on - orange 72v
purple 12v (sometimes it writes 12v / 72v, only 12v or no voltage is specified)
red, brown, black (regen 5v), this is relatively new function

red, brown, black wires are for 5v regen. You can leave it unplugged and use regular regen brake (when you press brake lever you initiate constant regen braking) which should be another wire, probably purple, should be.


So I assume on your purple wire is written ''high brake 12v / 72v'', right? In that case you need to supply this wire 12v or 72 to initiate regen braking which is constant (not variable) depending on your controller settings which you might to set before hand to regen brake to work as planned.


Quote from old sabvoton manual:
"
E-brake
Enabled: The controller will output the e-brake signal ,if it is activated. afterwards, the
motor will generate the reversing field to achieve flexible braking, in the meanwhile,
the controller will start to recharge the battery .
And while the e-brake is working, the general brake shall be disabled first.
"


Another snapshot from manual added

high brake wire needs 12v or 72v from battery to initate high brake, regen brake, it's called variously and it is misleading sometimes.

On your own risk Beucause I cannot be sure that color scheme is the same and if I understood you correctly and advice is correct.

I hope it helps.