Sabvoton SVMC072150 controller review, variable regen *PICS*

I tried applications from you both on USB and BT, but unfortunately still the same. Oddly enough, on the BT application, the HALL test goes nicely, it returns OK, but I noticed that the wheel only rotates 90 degrees ... and probably should be 360. I ran the HALL test 4 times and it made a full turn 4 times 90 degrees and on the USB the engine suddenly turned will start and then nothing, you can not even hear this screeching as the electricity goes to the engine. And after a while an error pops up
 
Jguest said:
edwardrhomberg said:
hi, minde
back to trying to pass hall test. now i get system error 1, the list below indicates hall failure. is this a problem in actual hub motor?
ed

I believe it could be down to the hall sensor type, unipolar vs bipolar.
I’m going to fit some additional unipolars see if that makes a difference

Did anyone ever figure this out? Do the Sabvotons prefer a Unipolar hall sensor? I tried two different bipolar hall sensors so far and I've been getting "0" and "7" hall statuses (only hall status 1-6 are valid). Hopefully someone can please provide some input!
 
It works with bipolar. If you get error/wrong hall statuses in controller app than check halls you have inside the motor, they might be broken, connection/circuit can be broken.
 
minde28383 said:
It works with bipolar. If you get error/wrong hall statuses in controller app than check halls you have inside the motor, they might be broken, connection/circuit can be broken.

That's odd. I also thought there could have been a break in the connection of the wiring but I swapped out the entire motor cable harness with a brand new stretch of cable but I'm still experiencing issues. I've also wired in two different sets of bipolar sensors (S41 009A1 and SS41F) and I've tested them both pretty extensively. One interesting thing I found is that when testing other brand new working Sabvoton controllers, they do NOT show a uniform voltage across all three halls when they are engaged. One of the halls (yellow) showed 4.97v and the blue & green showed ~3v. I have a set of unipolar SS441A halls coming in and I will be testing those. According to @haulincolin (https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=87509#p1286399) unipolar sensors worked for him. I will report back what I find.
 
I have replaced and tested only bipolar hall sensor.
My personal choice of hall testing was on separate circuit (controller disconnected) by supplying voltage from ~3.7s (1S lipo cell) to halls and turning wheel and measuring voltage output. I don't remember exact voltage now, but similar as input voltage and all three voltages showed equal voltages when engaged, even different halls (different but all bipolar AFAIK). By different halls I mean, one hall might be installed by me, one by motor manufacturer.
After I replaced halls I tried to run these with old Sabvoton and new Sabvotons, all works.
Other folks used some of my bipolar halls too; some where using sabvoton controllers, some - cheap basic controller, all works.

I never tried unipolar, but I tried various bipolar halls and it worked for me so far.
Looking from technical perspective bipolar and unipolar work almost the same, but that slight difference might have some effect for different controllers as they might expect different signal. Therefore I don't wonder why unipolar might worked.
The only fact that I know that they are bipolar is that when I bought them I saw it in title. I have three kinds/models of bipolar halls and all worked so far.
 
Hi

I have to change my old failed controller on my e-bike with SVMC72150 which I have on stock for new E-bike project.
I have 22S battery charged to 22x4.15v = 91,3V. On old controller regen braking worked from this voltage without problem.
On SVMC72150 the regen start working below 86 volts. I have Over Volt set to max 96V.
Is there any option to overcome this limit to get regen working from higher voltage than 86 volts?
 
There is no option to change settings to make regen to work on sabvoton 72150 from 22s top charge. It needs to discharge to 90v or little bit lower, as you already noticed, regen to start to be functional.
 
JoeFR said:
Hi

I have to change my old failed controller on my e-bike with SVMC72150 which I have on stock for new E-bike project.
I have 22S battery charged to 22x4.15v = 91,3V.

You charged to 91.3v but sabvoton might "see" even little bit higher voltage ~93v. It adds few volts for "self protection".
 
Be carefull , if you want to use the flux weakening.
The output stage dies when the generated voltage from the motor is reaching 100V.
I killed a 72260 and a 72150 with flux weakening enabeld , while playing with no load on the main stand.
Now without flux weakening everything is working good.
 
Hi

Thanks for reply.
So the best option is to remove two cells from the battery pack and make it 20S 84V full charge.
Pity I did not know this before when I already changed battery pack from 24S to 22S to lower max voltage for SVMC72150 :?

I do not use flux weakening because 80kmh is enough for me :wink:
 
No flux weakening, no problems with voltage under 95V and dieing output stages.
I drive with 21S charged to 87,5V , overvoltage is set to 95V and regen starts working around 85V, this was with both 72150 I had.
 
issues occur due regen which raises voltage when engaged, and not because of flux weakening.

if you want and have option to remove some cells than it's okay. Otherwise can implement some limitations when you can/cannot apply regen brake so that would not brake your controller with overvoltage.
 
The voltage from a 30%-50% faster spinning motor with flux enabled, is too high for the output stage, if the controller does not recognize this event it imidiatly dies.
I have killed my 72260 with an nearly empty 21S 100Ah setup with 13mOhm resistance at the controller. This was while testing on the main stand, regen was set to 50A, flux also. There is no chance that this battery will raise more than a volt while braking the motor without load.

I drove the scooter before with 16kw power drawn from the battery without any problem.

With the 72150 it was the same after 200km, i had it on the main stand and twisted the throttle to show how noisless the motor is now with the sine wave controller, when I took my hand away from the throttle, regen was not working anymore and the FETs where dead.
Now without flux I have done 2000km without any problem with regen set to 110A, while driving down a steep hill the battery rises max 1.5V during applied regen current.
 
dominik h said:
The voltage from a 30%-50% faster spinning motor with flux enabled, is too high for the output stage, if the controller does not recognize this event it imidiatly dies.
I have killed my 72260 with an nearly empty 21S 100Ah setup with 13mOhm resistance at the controller. This was while testing on the main stand, regen was set to 50A, flux also. There is no chance that this battery will raise more than a volt while braking the motor without load.
..

nearly empty 21S somewhat around 70v and you think overvoltage can happen due flux enabled with drained battery?
 
JoeFR said:
Hi

Thanks for reply.
So the best option is to remove two cells from the battery pack and make it 20S 84V full charge.
Pity I did not know this before when I already changed battery pack from 24S to 22S to lower max voltage for SVMC72150 :?

I do not use flux weakening because 80kmh is enough for me :wink:

Why not just leave the pack as 22s and only charge it to 84v. Same output, but with a benefit of the battery pack lasting a bit longer.
On my set up, I solved it by using a 96120 and fixing my 22s pack at 90v. Nearly 18months with no problems at all and using regen and flux weakening.
 
huge difference in capacity utilisation.

4.09Vpc termination is fine probably 85-90%

but 3.82V ??
 
minde28383 said:
nearly empty 21S somewhat around 70v and you think overvoltage can happen due flux enabled with drained battery?
With no load the controller can spin the motor with nearly double speed as on the road. So when you turn down the throttle or if you brake the controller turns of flux weakening and the generated voltage from the motor doubles imidiatly. The controller can`t deal with this high voltage, it does not matter if regen is turned on or of.
If the generated peak voltage is higher than FET ratings they die.
So be carefull with no load tests.

While normal driving the generated voltage with flux weakening rises only a few volts (my scooter die 108kph with flux applied and 103 without flux), but if you are driving with fully charged 22-23s the posibility to kill the FETs with generated voltage is still existing, when you drive down a steep hill with full throttle or if your wheel spins due to ice or snow.
The FETs are rated 100v.
 
dorong said:
I found the solution
I needed to change the parameters slide regenerative charge current to zero
also, I reduced the regenerative charge minimum speed to 10 rpm
 
Hi guys, I have a dangerous problem! When i set the ebrake OR the variable throttle for regen the bike accelerates full power!
I checked all the wires (brake sets 12v on the "high brake") en the throttle sets 5v on the brown throttle wire.

I am 100% sure it was working a couple of years back, but for some reason i disabled it back then. Now I want to use it again, and it almost killed me...

Is my controller broken? When I disable ebrake the brakes does cuttoff the motor like expected... but when enabled it accelerates like crazy when pulling the brakes. :shock: :shock:
 
Hi All.
Firstly, first post so definitely needs a comment about how much amazing useful info I've had from you guys already! I'm less than a year into all things wheels and volts - loving it. This is a quick question about the SVMC72150 and regen braking. View attachment 268821
This is the options page for braking in the software I have (no idea what version it is). I seem to be missing the dropdown for choosing variable regen braking. Do I need later software for this? I cannot seem to find it. The regen charge/slide function is working fine as is the +12V (purple wire) high brake. I also have the controller with a 3-wire connector (red, brown, black) for the 0-5V brake but when I connect a 5V thumb throttle, nothing! This is whether I have all brake options enabled in the software and apply my (12V, purple wire) brakes before using the thumb throttle.
I have my thumb throttle wires (red black white) connected to (red black brown) in that order but not sure if that's right or I could hurt anything by connecting a 5V throttle wrong, I'm guessing not!
Any help appreciated!
How did you fix the problem? I have the same problem now. Thanks 🙏
 
Don't know exact software nor hardware versions and their numbers.
I found that Sabvoton (Bluetooth compatible) controller manufactured few years ago does not function with Bluetooth adapter manufactured recently. According QS support person things were changed and there is no compatibility. When new Bluetooth adapter is plugged to old Sabvoton controller it does not show any values, all zeros is showed in bluetooth app.

How to recognized old controller from new one without connecting to PC/phone?
Controllers bought few years ago had screwed aviation connector with pins.
Recently bought controllers have wires going straight to controller without any aviation connector.
I am experiencing the same issue. I have about a 4 or 5 year old 150amp Sabvoton controller and uploaded the new mqcon app, but the app is just showing zeros. I even unplugged the connector it still zeros. Not sure what to do besides buy a newer controller
 
I am experiencing the same issue. I have about a 4 or 5 year old 150amp Sabvoton controller and uploaded the new mqcon app, but the app is just showing zeros. I even unplugged the connector it still zeros. Not sure what to do besides buy a newer controller
I just bought a new controller. I don’t have time to figure out the software/firmware. My contact that was emailing me at mqcon stopped emailing me.
 
I am experiencing the same issue. I have about a 4 or 5 year old 150amp Sabvoton controller and uploaded the new mqcon app, but the app is just showing zeros. I even unplugged the connector it still zeros. Not sure what to do besides buy a newer controller
Try older exe. Try on another pc. Try via bluetooth.
 
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