Sabvoton SVMC072150 controller review, variable regen *PICS*

[minde28383]

If my controller has the variable regen wires (red, brown, black), does it mean that the switch brakes (72v on the purple high brake wire) won't work without a second throttle ? Do I have to press the ebrake lever and the turn the second throttle ?
Could I permanently connect the red and brown wire of the variable regen to mimic a full throttle on the regen or it needs to read 5v only once the ebrake levers are pressed ?
A lot of question for something so simple...

no, you don't need to use a second throttle. Just use you high brake wire 12v / 72v purple one. I guess that's the answer you was looking for For high brake to work do some changed on app.

"connect the red and brown wire of the variable regen to mimic a full throttle"
Never heard to do so. Just use high brake wire.

 

[PeeHell]

Thanks for the reply. My high brake doesn't do anything when I connect it to 72v.
Do you guys know if I update the firmware through the app, it wouldn't be unlocked anymore ? I have the 72150 unlocked and don't want it to be locked...

 

[minde28383]

Your high brake might not work because you need to change something sabvoton app in functions tab.
Firmware update is not related with lock or unlock controller. At least for me it does not changed from unlock to lock after firmware update which was suggested when i connected to my controller via bluetooth from my phone. I'm 99.9% sure it won't change a thing after you update firmware.

 

[R4DK0]

Thanks for the reply. My high brake doesn't do anything when I connect it to 72v.
Do you guys know if I update the firmware through the app, it wouldn't be unlocked anymore ? I have the 72150 unlocked and don't want it to be locked...

Firmware update did not reset my unlocked controller. However it fixed the issue with regen not engaging after battery was disconnected for more than a few minutes.

 

[minde28383]

It must be due reset, some settings change to values which you needed. Sabvotons have regen be it old or new firmware.

 

[PeeHell]

Finally got my ebrakes to work : I had to put 5v on the variable regen (brown wire) once the high brake (purple wire) are connected to battery voltage.

If I pressed the brake lever without applying voltage to the variable signal input, it would disable the throttle but no regen. I guess my previous misunderdtood question wasn't dumb after all...
I got my controller from vito at QS motor along my QS 273 v3 back in 2017 ; for those who might have the same unexpect behavior.

 

[minde28383]

That is very strange that you need to supply 5v on the variable regen (brown wire) once the high brake (purple wire) is connected to battery voltage. I assume chances someone with exact problem finding this post are slim as you need to go through all posts...
Did you find it by experimenting or someone suggested this or found it on a manual?

 

[PeeHell]

That is very strange that you need to supply 5v on the variable regen (brown wire) once the high brake (purple wire) is connected to battery voltage. I assume chances someone with exact problem finding this post are slim as you need to go through all posts...
Did you find it by experimenting or someone suggested this or found it on a manual?

I figured out by comnecting a second throttle to the variable regen connector. Since the wide open throttle is max brake, I connected the brown wire to 5v.
My switched regen brakes are working now

 

[Alan B]

I fired up the GreyBorg with this Sabvoton and Cromotor (from zombiess) recently and took it out for some short trips. It still performs extremely well after 5 years of service.

I have it set up for modest slip regen, so letting off the throttle gives a nice gentle deceleration.

I have the rear brake lever set up with switch and linear hall sensor in the hood, and a magnet on the end of the lever that goes into the hood. This generates the signal to trigger the regen and generates the variable voltage to modulate it, but it is not the full 0-5V range, so I have to turn up the variable regen gain higher to make it work.

With this setup pulling the brake lever a little overrides the throttle and it also shuts off the slip regen. So it just coasts. It feels a bit odd because this is a slight acceleration on initial movement of the lever as the slip regen goes away. Then pulling the lever farther generates very strong and variable regen which I adjusted just shy of breaking the rear tire loose on dry pavement at maximum lever position.

For proper regen and long life of the controller 20S should really be considered the maximum battery (4.2V/cell). Exceeding that puts voltage stress on the parts that is too close to their limits in strong regen. There are always spikes higher than the battery voltage due to inductance and regen. Just call it a 20S controller. I seriously doubt there will ever be firmware to raise these limits as the controllers would likely fail at an unacceptable rate.

My pack is 18S 32 amp hours. I have thousands of miles on this setup and it has been excellent. See the CroBorg thread in my sig for more info.

 

[minde28383]

yes, specs says it is up to 95v. I would say stick to 20s or 21s. Especially you might use 21s in case when you know that you have not best battery which drops voltage quick on load .
If you don't use regen than you can use 22s. But if you turn on regen on fully charged battery than you get over voltage error and need to reboot controller to make it work again. Controller might blow up during regen on fully charged battery pack because of current spike and voltage over 100v ie a risk to burn controller because some parts are up to 100v.
So yes, 20s for peace of mind.

 

[cycborg]

if you turn on regen on fully charged battery than you get over voltage error and need to reboot controller to make it work again.

I'm using an SSC 72150 with a 14s battery and a QS 273 scooter hub motor. I'm really happy with my regen setup - enough slide regen to feel like engine braking on a gas bike, plus variable regen on a left-hand throttle. This has the feel I want and I almost never need to engage the mechanical brake except to keep from rolling when stopped.

My problem is that regen occasionally causes the controller to fault and I have to stop the bike and cycle the keyswitch to get it back, similar to what minde28383 describes in the quote above. However, with a 14s battery, I doubt I'm causing overvoltage. In fact, I had this happen recently when I had the scooter up on the stand with my laptop connected (I was balancing my wheel), and the fault it displayed was overcurrent, not overvoltage.

This happens under two conditions - when the battery is fully charged, and when I'm near the BEMF-limited speed (I don't have flux weakening enabled), regardless of SOC. The slip regen never causes it, only variable regen, although it only takes a touch of variable regen, so extreme braking isn't the trigger.

Pretty sure my BMS isn't tripping, since the 12 V system isn't affected. It's just the controller.

Any guesses? Any suggestions for narrowing it down?

 

[Volts]

Question regarding the elock and the low speed high speed switch, what voltage range for the elock to activate and does the speed switch require battery ground to function?

 

[minde28383]

low and high seed connector coming out of controller has three wires. See pic. You install switch or button and connect one or another pair of wires. I think... how else it could be...

What you call e-lock is called ignition noways? If that's true in your case than you can use 72v. Some old manual says you can use 72v/12v, but I always used 72v. New diagram show 72v only. On wire there is 72v written on newer controllers (ORANGE wire).
Ignition wire is orange wire and it feeds controller.

*If you wire has different color then it might be something else.

 

[rockstar195]

low and high seed connector coming out of controller has three wires. See pic. You install switch or button and connect one or another pair of wires. I think... how else it could be...

What you call e-lock is called ignition noways? If that's true in your case than you can use 72v. Some old manual says you can use 72v/12v, but I always used 72v. New diagram show 72v only. On wire there is 72v written on newer controllers (ORANGE wire).
Ignition wire is orange wire and it feeds controller.

*If you wire has different color then it might be something else.

On my 72150 i have the same plugs.
Im using 72v with a switch from my battery to the "E-ignition" orang wire.
For my ebrake, im using a side thumb lever type throttle. Using the most current/updated software, I was able to use variable ebrake with the throttle alone ONLY....no need for a switch before I engage it.

 

[Volts]

So the black on the high speed low speed dongle needs to be connected directly to the negative on the 72v battery?
If anyone has their high speed low speed connected and working please let me know how you did it

 

[leffex]

So the black on the high speed low speed dongle needs to be connected directly to the negative on the 72v battery?
If anyone has their high speed low speed connected and working please let me know how you did it

No I don't think so.

I had to change some settings turning off some in the bluetooth

Then I connected a 3speed switch connector to each cable and it works as it should

 

[rockstar195]

So the black on the high speed low speed dongle needs to be connected directly to the negative on the 72v battery?
If anyone has their high speed low speed connected and working please let me know how you did it

No. Find a 3 speed ebike switch that has a 3 prong connector that the plug on the Sabvoton accepts. Plug/connect together and forget. No splicing or wondering if a wire goes here or there.

 

[Volts]

Ok got the controller paired to my phone via the Bluetooth module, the next step is to do a hall test, which setting should I change I’m testing it at the moment on 15amp and it just cog there for ever help needed

 

[minde28383]

make yellow marked fields as in pic and set (press button) parameters Parameters store to YES (press button). It will cog cog (test running about few minutes) and will PASS the test if not from first time than from second or sometimes from third time. Than close app, remove power from controller and plug it back and see if Hall angle (degree) is something ~245.
15A is ok. enough. Can set even 10A for light motors. Can set 50A but no need for high amperage. No difference actually in result.
Try few times if no luck will give you more advice, but actually it's all about the test. it's not complicated.

 

[zerosandones]

Hi guys!

I am just about to buy the SVMC72150, but I'm a bit consfused in terms of the controller brand and "who is in charge" of support and everything else.

I assume most of you picked it up from Aliexpress, and there QSMotor has it's own landing page / store. Is that pretty much or? What about that MQCON brand? I see that their housing is a bit different, but I assume it's compeltely the same?

 

[minde28383]

This is forum so nobody is in charge. You get support here depending if somebody wants you to support. Usually you get support from seller if he provides one. When you buy not locally you are supported by abroad support so you must learn stuff yourself.
Yes from ali and hundret other shops, depends where you live, what you can access.
You always can look local guy from whom to buy and possible get eye to eye support from him which is very nice especially if you build first time. Getting helping hand locally is always nice but maybe more expensive.
If it looks different than maybe it ain't Sabvoton.
Sabvoton was some years ago. Now is is - MQCON, but it is the same thing. For us as their product consumers little changed regarding controller itself but mostly it is the same stuff.
You can buy it. We'll advice you here but as I mentioned better buy from locals to get eye to eye service if you don't have clue what it is. If you do have clue than of course ship it from anywhere.

 

[zerosandones]

This is forum so nobody is in charge. You get support here depending if somebody wants you to support. Usually you get support from seller if he provides one. When you buy not locally you are supported by abroad support so you must learn stuff yourself.
Yes from ali and hundret other shops, depends where you live, what you can access.
You always can look local guy from whom to buy and possible get eye to eye support from him which is very nice especially if you build first time. Getting helping hand locally is always nice but maybe more expensive.
If it looks different than maybe it ain't Sabvoton.
Sabvoton was some years ago. Now is is - MQCON, but it is the same thing. For us as their product consumers little changed regarding controller itself but mostly it is the same stuff.
You can buy it. We'll advice you here but as I mentioned better buy from locals to get eye to eye service if you don't have clue what it is. If you do have clue than of course ship it from anywhere.

Thanks for the info and help!

BTW. I wasn't referring to the forum when I said "who is in charge", I was thinking like who is in charge of this product in terms of the brand / manufacturer, to whom can I speak to / contact to, cause I see it's all over the place support wise.

I'm from EU, Croatia to be precise, so I think I'm going to order it from Aliexpress, it makes the most sense, it's currently around 225$ with Bluetooth USB dongle, I assume it will cost me around 300$ with import fees. I don't see any better options than that.

 

[minde28383]

Yes, you are right about it's "over the place support wise". There is no such one support point as it used to be when they had their site and contacts. You have nice worm weather there. I been there once during extreme hot weather time. Some years ago there was hot air pass through whole Europe and it happen that I was driving to Croatia in camping car. So I remember Croatia as really hot weather country. Opposite where I am, it's mostly always cold except summer, not so bad as in uk though.

 

[randysway]

Just a quick FYI here - regarding regen (at least from my experience).

Variable Regen, High-Brake, and Low-Brake are each independently functioning systems. Ergo, none of them need to be activated for another to work.

Low-Brake - Cuts power to the motor when pulled low (ground)
High-Brake - Engages Regen, at max programmed level, when pulled high (12v to VBatt+)
Variable Regen - Engages proportional regen between 0 and max programmed level, when 0-5v is applied to aux throttle in.

NOTE: There are what, 8 different freaking applications in that Sabvoton doc archive that gets passed around? ONLY ONE OF THEM PROVIDES THE OPTION TO ENABLE VARIABLE REGEN!

After running the installer inside volume-en.zip (Needed for supporting libraries), use the executable 'SabVoton Motor Controller V2.0 (temp programmable).exe' to configure your controller.

After MONTHS of trial, error, and googling, this was the only way I was able to get variable regen working. (It was a blurb I stumbled accross somewhere on endless-sphere that got me here, when I find the post I'll cite it).

That be said, it works splendidly, doesn't reguire BL or BH connected, and only needs to be activated once. After activation, you can go back to using the Android app for configuration.

Cheers.

 

[BionicBlitz]

so.. how do i enable it? have a throttle plugged into the three "e-brake throttle" wires but nothing happens...