6 punctures in 16 months, help!

Not necessarily. Sometimes this happens simply because of a defect in a low quality rim, the kind of rim that usually comes with a pre-built hubmotor wheel. Doesn't happen with a better quality wheelbuild. Smurf2 stated they ride slowly and avoid impacts.
Well, I guess lacing a new rim onto a hubmotor is better than buying a whole new kit.
Might as well do the fancy lacing if you're gonna do it. (it really does hold better)
Lacing a new rim on is the way I see to fix OP's problem.
Gettin' a headache just thinking about it.
I've never seen a rim do that, tbh. I've put dents and gravel marks in rims, but not that.
I got a flat not long ago and just low-throttled it home in the grass to minimize rim damage.
Got new tires and tubes after that. No rim damage! Whoo!
The tires that were on there were the originals and had been many miles.
But once you start getting flats, it doesn't stop. Might keep 'em around fer a quick backup,
but nothing to rely on.
 
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I'm joining this pity party. I never carry tools with me, and never need them except for one thing, a flat tire. Anything else I could just pedal home, or to the train. If I would of had a way to fill the tire last week, I could have just pulled this out, and aired my tire back up. By the time I pushed my bike a mile home my tube was wasted. I ordered one of these Co2 inflators, hope it works.
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Dude, you need to check into cordless lithium battery powered inflators.
 
99t4 said:
Was yours part of a pre-built kit, where the rim comes laced to the wheel?
Think yes. I bought a kit where is motor attached to the rim.

99t4 said:
n00b said:
You hit a sharp curb and the tire didn't protect the rim.
Not necessarily. Sometimes this happens simply because of a defect in a low quality rim, the kind of rim that usually comes with a pre-built hubmotor wheel. Doesn't happen with a better quality wheelbuild. Smurf2 stated they ride slowly and avoid impacts.
Yes 99t4, exactly that! No way that I hit strong sharp edge! I think that my drive at the same path every day prevent a most of flats last days.
 
Which rim to buy, steel or alu?
Local shop or China?

Is there some good rim on Aliexpress??

Is it worth change rim on 2 year old motor? I hope yes.
 
Which rim to buy, steel or alu?
Aluminum, unless you have some rare specific requirement for steel.
Local shop or China?
What is your location?
Is there some good rim on Aliexpress??
I don't know.
Is it worth change rim on 2 year old motor? I hope yes.
If you are asking because you think your 2 year old motor is near the end of its life, the answer is these motors can run many many years longevity if they are not abused.
 
If you are asking because you think your 2 year old motor is near the end of its life, the answer is these motors can run many many years longevity if they are not abused.
Yes :) asking because that. But for now, motor steel working good.

I am from Croatia.

Brother told me that I must search local mechanic to try weld it (for temporary solution). And not try to ride it because tire will go out on pressure.
?

Also what I saw on Ali, the cheapest ebike like 170€, with two hub motors, disc, 4", and battery, which is funny since I'm bothering myself with this problem 🙄Just imagine what equipment the more expensive ones have 🤭
 
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I had the same type of rim failure on mine last year:
What you did to break a rim? Or from itself?

Btw., after I opened a tire, I marked both tires and rim position, and saw that hole is exactly on position of broken rim!!!
The chance was 1:360 for any other flat on this marked position :)

So, can be that "needle" a part of broken rim? If yes, that means is not road flat, but it is rim flat :)
 
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The only major stress that occurred before the rim cracking that I can remember was that I did have a flat and stupidly rode the flat some distance thinking I was not far from my destination. Riding on the flat like that may have overly stressed the rim at a weak point that later started cracking? Did you ride some distance on the flat tire?

Again, the rims that come with motor kits are almost always low strength, low quality.

Croatia-- I don't know what rims are available locally there, maybe others can make suggestions.
I bought this one, based on a good recommendation from forum member Chalo (but in the 28mm width):
 
Riding on the flat like that may have overly stressed the rim at a weak point that later started cracking? Did you ride some distance on the flat tire?
I cross over this stone crossing (do you have it too?).
After like 100m I feel something strange, but continue about 200m forward on nice red bike path (It was "slow" flat). But not drive on full empty tire.

Maybe rim already been started crack before that happened, and when cross on crossing maybe rim crack full then.

Btw this is second time that I had flat on this type 45° stone crossing (last time was "rim cut").

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Yes :) asking because that. But for now, motor steel working good.

I am from Croatia.

Brother told me that I must search local mechanic to try weld it (for temporary solution). And not try to ride it because tire will go out on pressure.
?

Also what I saw on Ali, the cheapest ebike like 170€, with two hub motors, disc, 4", and battery, which is funny since I'm bothering myself with this problem 🙄Just imagine what equipment the more expensive ones have 🤭
I would try like..ebay for used tims. 26"? There should be some.

A new rim seriously shouldn't be that much. Just the rim. You'll have to learn how to lace a hub and need a spoke wrench and probably some bolt-cutters. (hopefully not bolt cutters, but I'd keep them handy)
 
Which rim to buy, steel or alu?
Local shop or China?

Is there some good rim on Aliexpress??

Is it worth change rim on 2 year old motor? I hope yes.
It's worth it to change it. Lemme see if I can find something. eBay might would be better.
You want aluminum and like Weinmanns or Arayas, something good. Hopefully 36-spoke.

As for Ali:

Idk about Chinesium stuff...they've done better with metal lately but..

I can break Chinesium stuff. Chinesium stuff is why that rim broke.

Not sure what the shipping would be to you:


OOO..ooo! You need to count the holes on your hub! That's the 1st step.
 
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I've been researching tires to see if anything

We may have the contender for 'most rubber ever put in a bike tire'. These can easily be 3lbs or beyond. It's also ~40% less expensive than a Schwalbe.

View attachment 348562

Kwick Drumlin

View attachment 348559

Versus marathon e-plus:
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Versus Marathon Tour:

View attachment 348561

..and of course they're out of stick on the 26 x 2.0" size... maybe they're brand new?
Those are nice tires, but they having a blinding strip on them, just so it's known. I just got some tires I like better than those.

Lemme see what they are..hmm. got a heck of a deal on them, too.

Maxxis Overdrive XL 47
 
Thanks a lot for the links.
In the meantime, I found local bike service which will be found rim and transfer motor to new rim for me, and not expensive too much. They want to bring only wheel to them.

EDIT:
Can moving spokes/motor in/out affect on position caliper / rotor? I think axes is always in same place and because that rotor must fit in caliper like before??
 
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Brake rotor bolts directly to the hubmotor. Its alignment does not change with a new rim.
 
Those are nice tires, but they having a blinding strip on them, just so it's known. I just got some tires I like better than those.

Lemme see what they are..hmm. got a heck of a deal on them, too.

Maxxis Overdrive XL 47

Interesting, but only 780g of rubber
Here's a good review:
Maxxis Overdrive Excel Tyre | cycling-not-racing

I believe Schwalbe has thicker tires available but the low rolling resistance of those is nice to be honest, schwalbe puncture proof tires have crappy ride quality and traction for me. The maxxis sounds better.

Combine that relatively thick tire with some flatout and you probably have good protection.

You know what sucks? Kenda stopped selling the KS+ line of tires. These could get up to 1.5kg heavy, which is basically a moped tire. In theory they would roll over goatheads without event.

I'd like to hear you experiences with these tires sometime.
 
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Hi. The wheel is done. Local bike shop replaced a motor to the other rim (not sure if that is new) for €60.

I drive 60 km, and it seems ok, maybe better than last Chinese. Tyre pressure is 4.20 bar.

I forgot mention something important, about my drive. Sometimes I crash in some holes, like on highs speed, when not see them, especially underwater. But we all do that, and I can't affect to that. That is suprise :)

Maybe my rim cracked before, and later full crack.

Guys, please open this link where you see pictures of my soft rim wear (somebody of you remember). That is a same rim which crack. Can be that reason for my rim crack??
Post in thread 'E-bike without rear disc mount: E-bike without rear disc mount
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.
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What kind of PSI are you running on those tires?

Mine's usually cranked way up..
 
My bad!

Have you considered going with a taller tire to prevent this in the future, considering your local conditions?
 
Did you mean maybe wider tire, like fat bike?

Yes, but I wounder is it wider tire more resistant of puncture? Motors and cars are. But I think that fat bike and motor tire are not same component.
 
Maybe not that tall. Can the bike take 2.4" tires?

Basically if you're are dinging your rim at high PSI then the best answer is more air volume.

Wider tires are not necessarily more puncture resistant. You need to look for a tire with puncture protection specifically, because additional rubber doesn't come standard on bike tires.
 
Puncture #8, after few days..
Guys help. I never seen this in my life. The white line is all over the inner tube from inside. In middle of white line is black line looks like place where just begin cracking, or already is cracked-I found min. 2 holes, and can be more. That tire must be thrown in the garbage because it will continue cracking in the middle of white line.

Looks like rim squeeze inner tub when filled with air? I know when filled air that must few times stop and press the tire to rim with hands or body to sit, but last time from 0-4.20 bar I paused/pressed it only 2 times :( (maybe 3, not remember). But if the rim squeezes, how can that from inside the inner tube?

Second solution, can be reason only tape? I looked at my tape and looks awful. It seems that the tape moved around freely.
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Guys help. I never seen this in my life. The white line is all over the inner tube from inside. In middle of white line is black line looks like place where just begin cracking, or already is cracked-I found min. 2 holes, and can be more. That tire must be thrown in the garbage because it will continue cracking in the middle of white line.
Either the innertube has manufacturing defect (weak seam?) (poor quality material?) (old?) or install injury (pinched from tire lever or screwdriver?).

What is the story (history?) of the innertube?

The rim tape does look like it moved but is still covering the spoke holes, doing its job. But it moved so far that it is covering the tire bead seat, which can make it more difficult to evenly seat more tight-fitting tires (Schwalbe, in my experience).

 
A wider rim strip would be a good idea. One that can't easily move laterally.
 
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