6 punctures in 16 months, help!

I'm joining this pity party. I never carry tools with me, and never need them except for one thing, a flat tire. Anything else I could just pedal home, or to the train. If I would of had a way to fill the tire last week, I could have just pulled this out, and aired my tire back up. By the time I pushed my bike a mile home my tube was wasted. I ordered one of these Co2 inflators, hope it works.
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I like everything about the Kwick Drumlin with K-Shield Plus, except one thing. Armor seems at least equal to Marathon Plus, ride quality and grip are better, price is attractive. But about half of the KS+ version ones I ever used suffered casing failures at or below max pressure. Not blowouts, but hernias that made the tread crooked.

Might indicates a weaker than advertised sidewall? I'm imagining based on weight that we have more rubber on the tread.
What are the KS+ ones you've tried and at what PSI? was it the 'journey' model?

I cannot find a single KS+ Drumlin in 26" anywhere online, nor mention of it in their 2023 catalog, and there's no 2024 catalog, blog entries, or anything else about this tire.

For this reason, I prefer Kwick Drumlin Cargo, which has the thinner K-Shield breaker belt, but twice the casing plies of the KS+ version. Those of us struggling with frequent punctures on e-bikes could really use a version with both the 4 ply casing and KS+ breaker belt (and 2.4" width).

It has a higher weight than the Schwalbe Pick up.. and i also imagine the compound might be a little harder for cargo tires, am i right? ( if so, this is a bit of puncture resistance in itself )
 
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Moped tires on wide rims.
Kenda Kwick Drumlin and some other Kenda models have moped or M/C designations and size markings along with customary bicycle size markings.
 
Might indicates a weaker than advertised sidewall?

Probably had more to do with the weight I was putting on them. The Cargo version boasts a 150kg rating, which would be comparable to the rear wheel load of my bikes at the time, but it implies that the KS+ model isn't rated that high.
What are the KS+ ones you've tried and at what PSI? was it the 'journey' model?

I have used Kwick Drumlin in the KS+ version, 26x2.0" and 29x2.0". I've used Kwick Drumlin Cargo in 20x2.0". And I've used Kwick Journey in 29x2.0", but only the 3mm regular K-Shield. I inflated all of them to 60-65 psi even though most were rated 50-80 psi.

and i also imagine the compound might be a little harder for cargo tires, am i right? ( if so, this is a bit of puncture resistance in itself )

Maybe, probably? As far as I can tell, the tread compound seems to be the same between the 2 ply and 4 ply versions. Harder than most tires I've used, but with surprisingly good grip.
 
Ahh okay so you were putting quite a bit of stress on them.
Damn, nice that you have such extensive experience with this brand.

Maybe, probably? As far as I can tell, the tread compound seems to be the same between the 2 ply and 4 ply versions. Harder than most tires I've used, but with surprisingly good grip.

Harder but with surprisingly good grip sounds like a moped tire compound. I think we're getting closer to an ideal ebike tire here.

Side notes..

Guys on the EBR forum who use sealants seem to like flatout sealant a lot. There's some stories of withstanding nails among users of it. Seems better than slime.... and lasts longer. There's a thicker formulation than the bike version that is even better, too.
Ref: Are Flat Out, Slime and Stans a scam?

Tannus armor is an option.. local bike shop recommends it these days for commuters. The big downside is the 500-1000 mile life, and difficult fitment.

I'm glad there's at least some viable options for riders like me who live in goathead hell. I'm thinking of trying bike tires again.
 
OK, i scoured the entire internet again and cannot get my hands on the drumlin k-shield plus, so i ordered the journey k-shield plus instead.

Will report back with a puncture test to see how it compares with my marathon plus.

Backup plan: add flatout if the protection isn't sufficient.
 
Will do!

BTW here's the best test of the Flatout.. this would be one of the ATV/outdoor equipment versions.. supposedly better than the bike version.


Looks like it could handle all these nail scenarios mentioned in the thread.
 
30 psi? I run at double that.
 
30 psi? I run at double that.
I use Flatout in a fat tire parade trike I have, and it works. But I would not trust it to work at the pressures I like to use in bicycle tires.

It's a huge point in Flatout's favor that it doesn't quickly turn into scabs like tubeless sealant does, or into dreadlocks in green sauce like Slime does.
 
Looks like it could handle all these nail scenarios mentioned in the thread.

Hmmm... I'm not so sure. The entry wound I'm sure it would stop up, but the exit wound on the "uphill" side of the tire probably wouldn't get enough sealant on it unless you sloshed it around while it was leaking.
 
I am a huge fan of flat out. I live in Arizona (the land of endless goat head thorns).
I pluck the thorn out, and the hissing starts; I ride the bike and the hissing stops as the sealant gets distributed to the hole.
I have pulled 2 out in the past week which created leaks (initially). I didn't need to re-inflate the tire afterwards. It is simply that good.

Tires are Annova Hybrid (thicker than normal carcass), size 26 X 4. Innertube is the standard junk that comes with the bike.
 
I had a nail go straight through my motorcycle tire on my stealth bomber. It had slime and it only slowed down the leak. I put Flat Out and so far it's a week an no leaks.
 
Today's flat, from debris damage to a 26x3.0" horrendously thick Wan Da tire:

IMG_20240319_140803~2.jpgIMG_20240319_140847~2.jpg

I couldn't identify what the puncturing object had been, but the bike lane was very trashy.
 
Looks like 2 compound tread - a thin layer of vintage asphalt roofing shingles atop... solidified blueberry ice cream below. Yes, I see some fuzzy hairs poking out too, but not 60 bucks worth.
 
One of my motorcycles has a bicycle front rim, the motorcycle itself weighs 120 kg, I use a double bicycle tire on it, that is, one on top of the other, both tires with an anti-puncture layer. This option is very successful for me, I have been riding it since 2019 years ago. Once I swapped the tires and put the one that was on the outside inside.
 
I use "Slime Tube Sealant" for inner tubes. After a puncture you just notice your tire is somewhat deflated. Just pump to spec and you are ready to continue.

Also I use baby powder on the inner tube and when a puncture occurs some amount of sealant will leak and leave a very visible spot. Then you can inspect the outer tire from the debris, and eventually apply a sticker to repair permanently the puncture in the inner tube.


You can see in video Ride-On, Sahara, and Slime. I have only tested Slime from those and it works good with Continental inner tires.

P.S. I tried "Joe's yellow gel", but that thing is like a glue. Once I had a tire pop because puncture was bad but the glue fixed it just barely. I prefer the Slime where you would get signs of failure, rather that sudden tire pop.
 
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Bumpity-Bump-Bump

Hey @Smurf2 ! How's the Schwalbe tires working out for you?
Guys, I am first flat after 10mnt/4200km! No chance after metal needle. But, this flat is small problem compared to what I found next!

After I was looking for a hole, I saw something terrible — a broken rear rim!
I don't know how long I drive with that, but I think not longer than a week.

I must repeat, I only of all bicyclists going slow on the bumps and damaging roads, and don't know how is broken.

Can I drive like that until the winter (1-2mnt)?
What next options? If I buy only rim and spokes, not sure that I will good center a motor. Service for 20-50€ looks best option.

I really like wider rims, but the bike frame it seems not allow me.
InFrame_1727113161059.jpg
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Hi guys. While I leave in village, I drove my bmx and othet bikes almost all my childhood, I can't remember when I puncture the tire. If there was, it was very rare.

Now, when I bought this M bike (7.2022.), converted in E-bike, in 16 months I puncture REAR tire 6 times! Yes, I ride more than ever now, about 50 km at good weather day. I have around 63-65 kg. Battery is think 4KG. ODO 4.480km.

My all 6 rear punctures:
1) 22.7.22. (Kenda gravel) Used tires which come with bike. At the bridge, all I saw is metal wire bellow me.

Then I think I need new tires. Brother told me buy 1.75, you will be faster. I bought Vittoria:


2)14.9.22. (Vittoria)
Found a nail on speed bump (pic a)).

3) 3.4.23.(Vittoria)Found a piece of straight metal on the road (pic b)).

I saw that this tire too thin so I search better solution. I want to go on max width size tire. In local shop recommend Continental tires "Traffic II"! That tires are very hard move with hands. They look very hard and thick. I said that is it ! But they look too expensive :/

So they recommend me Race King tires. Saw that "RK Protection" tire have extra protection, and from sight, but I don't need from sight!

Then found similar and cheaper normal tires - "Race King SKIN" (26x2.0), for which told me in shop that are stronger for punctures too(than others), and no one tire prevent 100%! Then I bought them!

But after I order them I saw in hands that are too soft (not hard like Traffic II) tires. I mean, maybe will be good.

4) 22.5.23. (Race King) Four puncture are little strange. I go faster and not straight, but from the side on entry in the yard (see pictures c) & d)) It seems "rim cut".

5)14.9.23.(Race King)My last puncture, a little piece of glass. Very rainy day, drive on water (pic e)).

6)22.11.23.(Race King) At river bridge. Piace of stone.

How I am drive then? You can check here in details:

After every puncture I am learning and adapting my drive (no more fast over speed bumps etc.).

Feeling strange:
In really hot weather, on these tires, I have been felling that they will "melt" itself, and when go down from bridge I am braking because feeling that something is not alright. I pump tire on 4.0 bars now, but still when cross over a little tiny stone, have feeling like my rim touch that stone, like my tire not pump too much, understand? Tire so thin like I drive on pastry. And feeling like tire wobbling and will go out (not rim). Feeling like rim close to ground.

Maybe is just my feeling and fear by remembering of lasts punctures, don't know :) Maybe is just when is really hot? I had drive other normal MTB and never that feeling..

But what you recommend me? Is there will be help of Puncture Protection Strip installation (like ZEFAL Z-Liner), can be maybe help against tiny glass, thorn, etc.?

What tire you heard that is thicker and good at preventing puncture?
You need the bompa whomper tires. 1.95-2.25 or so and heavy duty tubes and puncture-resistant moped-rated tires.
Lemme see if I can find a pic..

These are bompa whompers:

 
Guys, I am first flat after 10mnt/4200km! No chance after metal needle. But, this flat is small problem compared to what I found next!

After I was looking for a hole, I saw something terrible — a broken rear rim!
I don't know how long I drive with that, but I think not longer than a week.

I must repeat, I only of all bicyclists going slow on the bumps and damaging roads, and don't know how is broken.

Can I drive like that until the winter (1-2mnt)?
What next options? If I buy only rim and spokes, not sure that I will good center a motor. Service for 20-50€ looks best option.

I really like wider rims, but the bike frame it seems not allow me.
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View attachment 360013
View attachment 360018
You hit a sharp curb and the tire didn't protect the rim.
 
I must repeat, I only of all bicyclists going slow on the bumps and damaging roads, and don't know how is broken.
I had the same type of rim failure on mine last year:
p1040542-jpg.337062

Can I drive like that until the winter (1-2mnt)?
What next options? If I buy only rim and spokes, not sure that I will good center a motor. Service for 20-50€ looks best option.
I marked the extent of the crack and closely monitored it over the next several rides. Riding carefully, avoiding impacts, lowering tire pressure slightly. It grew very slowly, slow enough that it did not catastrophically fail until I was able to obtain new parts to rebuild the wheel, a few weeks.

Was yours part of a pre-built kit, where the rim comes laced to the wheel? Almost universally, these wheelbuilds suffer from low quality components,, and poor choice of components. Low quality rims, with oversize spokes that further stress the rims.

The solution is to rebuild the wheel yourself, with high quality rim and properly sized (thickness) spokes..

I did this exact thing last year and mine is still working perfectly several thousands miles later.

Here is my progress thread:


There are helpful DIY links inside that thread.
 
You hit a sharp curb and the tire didn't protect the rim.
Not necessarily. Sometimes this happens simply because of a defect in a low quality rim, the kind of rim that usually comes with a pre-built hubmotor wheel. Doesn't happen with a better quality wheelbuild. Smurf2 stated they ride slowly and avoid impacts.
 
I laced a rim..once.
IMO, it's not worth doing again.
I got the rim true..and curb bruise.
Kinda fixed that and..another worse curb bruise. I pay somebody to lace rims now.
 
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