Chalo
100 TW
A $15 generic controller, a $10 generic throttle, and that crappy bike can be back in business better than new.
Ride1Up 700 Series: An upgrade journey
- Thread starter slaphappygamer
- Start date
if the motor is not spinning at all, it could be a connection fault, or something phsyically wrong with the BR, if a reset of all the BR's settings and a power cycle didn't fix it.
If there's a connection fault, the BR won't be able to detect the motor (probably the same if a FET failed).
If the BR is not connected to a battery, and you put your multimeter on it's battery input terminals, spinnning the mtoor backwards will generate soem volttage. If it does, and it doesnt' feel abnormally draggy, then there's probably nothing wrong with the FETs, and probably no connection faults to the motor. If you can guesstimate the RPM you're spinning it at, and know the kV of the motor, you can guesstimate the voltage you should see if all connections and fets are working. If one phase is missing, you should see only 2/3 of that.
If there's a connection fault, the BR won't be able to detect the motor (probably the same if a FET failed).
If the BR is not connected to a battery, and you put your multimeter on it's battery input terminals, spinnning the mtoor backwards will generate soem volttage. If it does, and it doesnt' feel abnormally draggy, then there's probably nothing wrong with the FETs, and probably no connection faults to the motor. If you can guesstimate the RPM you're spinning it at, and know the kV of the motor, you can guesstimate the voltage you should see if all connections and fets are working. If one phase is missing, you should see only 2/3 of that.
slaphappygamer
10 kW
I’ll have to check closer when I have more time to. Probably this weekend. I have quickly checked the dashboard area of the PhaseRunner suite and the halls all toggle properly. I hope it’s not a FET is the BaseRunner. I do have my other KT setup that I can use to verify the motor spins.
Glad to hear you are finding this thread useful. Thanks for checking it out!
Now I really need to get off my butt and install my torque sensor. It has not only been the longest time I’ve been off my bike, but now the longest since I’ve made any tweaks or upgrades on it. Thanks for the motivation.
slaphappygamer
10 kW
I said the same thing to myself when I was installing the temp sensor. I swear, I ordered that thing almost a year ago. Haha
I’ll have to check out your thread again. I’m curious if you’ll have a difference in BB spindle length and how that could effect your chain line.
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docw009
10 MW
You can hear the motor spin and gears turn, but the wheel is still. Could it be running backwards? That's fixable.
I just bought some 35E's. I was a bit concerned by 18650batterystore's 8A peak spec, although a 32A 4P is far more than I need.
I just bought some 35E's. I was a bit concerned by 18650batterystore's 8A peak spec, although a 32A 4P is far more than I need.
slaphappygamer
10 kW
I haven’t had time to troubleshoot any more. Hopefully, I’ll take another look tonight. Yes, I hear the gears, but no wheel rotation. I’m really hoping this isn’t a hardware issue.
I feel like 25A was a nice maximum for this pack. 30A was fun, and much better on hills. Just that drawing 30A used about .5v more than 25A, for my commute.
I usually charge after my second day of commuting, 16-17 miles. On the third day, I find myself getting close to LVC, if I don’t charge after the second day. If I have to make a stop on the way home, on that third day, I may not make home. Running a 30A max, I was closer to the LVC.
I can’t charge at work, because I work in multiple locations throughout the day and can’t monitor the pack while charging.
I feel like 25A was a nice maximum for this pack. 30A was fun, and much better on hills. Just that drawing 30A used about .5v more than 25A, for my commute.
I usually charge after my second day of commuting, 16-17 miles. On the third day, I find myself getting close to LVC, if I don’t charge after the second day. If I have to make a stop on the way home, on that third day, I may not make home. Running a 30A max, I was closer to the LVC.
I can’t charge at work, because I work in multiple locations throughout the day and can’t monitor the pack while charging.
hillslayer@
100 W
Probably sheared the woodruff key that's the reason I don't like geared hubs.
slaphappygamer
10 kW
I didn’t hear any noise, in the motor. Other than something spinning. My first thought was to open the motor, but given the time, I opted to check my settings. I’ll have a look at that key as well. What I did hear spinning was what sounded like the planetary gears rotating in the sun gear. You very well may be right on the money.
If thsi is whn operatignj the controller, then the motor *has* to be the thing that's spinning, because the controlelr can't spin the gears without spinning hte mtoro.
In that event, the most likely thing is that the mtoor is spinning backwards, so it wont[ drive the wheel becuase of the clutch.
the next most likely thing is the gears are stripped so they can't driv eanything. or the clutch is broken; like i had on a fusin--a tiny crack from the corner of one of the roller ramp reewcesses let the cluthc flex enough to not put any pressure on the rollers so it wouldn't drive the planets.
Orwhatever secures the sun gear to the rotor isn't there or isn't working, so the sun gear is not able to transfer motor torque to the planets and ring giear. Alternately the ring gear could be unsecured, bnut that's got so much surface area it would probably still friction drive the motor casing.
hillslayer@
100 W
My money is on a sheared woodruff key.If thsi is whn operatignj the controller, then the motor *has* to be the thing that's spinning, because the controlelr can't spin the gears without spinning hte mtoro.
In that event, the most likely thing is that the mtoor is spinning backwards, so it wont[ drive the wheel becuase of the clutch.
the next most likely thing is the gears are stripped so they can't driv eanything. or the clutch is broken; like i had on a fusin--a tiny crack from the corner of one of the roller ramp reewcesses let the cluthc flex enough to not put any pressure on the rollers so it wouldn't drive the planets.
Orwhatever secures the sun gear to the rotor isn't there or isn't working, so the sun gear is not able to transfer motor torque to the planets and ring giear. Alternately the ring gear could be unsecured, bnut that's got so much surface area it would probably still friction drive the motor casing.
slaphappygamer
10 kW
Time will tell. I’m planning on opening the motor tonight.
Edit: I opened the motor and it’s not the keys fault. The key is intact and gears look good. I can rotate the wheel and hear the gears engage smoothly
I put the motor back together and tried a bit of throttle. The motor whirred slowly, as moving through water. I’ll try other software things another day.
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slaphappygamer
10 kW
So, the motor is fine. I tempconnected the previous KT system. Motor spins up fine. I tried walk mode, then with PAS. I didn’t have a throttle to test with. Motor spins as expected in all PAS levels. I think the motor temp sensor is working as well. It normally reads 50F when there is no sensor, now it reads 59F. I can verify later, but the bike is upside down and there is no way to put a load on.
Contemplating to put the KT system back on and working with Grin support at another time.
After some more loading default parameters to the BaseRunner, autotune will NOT spin the wheel. I also tried to reverse rotation. No luck.
I’m also considering using the CA with the KT controller. I’ll be on vacation all next week, so I’ll have time to consider which direction I go. Until then, the bike will be upside down.
UPDATE: Turns out 59 is what’s shown when the temp sensor is not working. Temp readout probably won’t work. Just like @AHicks suspected.
Contemplating to put the KT system back on and working with Grin support at another time.
After some more loading default parameters to the BaseRunner, autotune will NOT spin the wheel. I also tried to reverse rotation. No luck.
I’m also considering using the CA with the KT controller. I’ll be on vacation all next week, so I’ll have time to consider which direction I go. Until then, the bike will be upside down.
UPDATE: Turns out 59 is what’s shown when the temp sensor is not working. Temp readout probably won’t work. Just like @AHicks suspected.
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if the mtoro works ith the kt controller thne something in the br isn't allowing it to spin it in the forward direction, only backwards.
it has to be spnning it backwards because you can hear it spinning, rihgt?
if it's spinning at all and the wheel isn't spinning, it must be spinning backwards.
if it were spinning forwards but not spinning the hweel, the same thing would happen wiht the kt controller.
since it doesn't, it can't be spinning forwards with the br.
it has to be spnning it backwards because you can hear it spinning, rihgt?
if it's spinning at all and the wheel isn't spinning, it must be spinning backwards.
if it were spinning forwards but not spinning the hweel, the same thing would happen wiht the kt controller.
since it doesn't, it can't be spinning forwards with the br.
slaphappygamer
10 kW
This is what is happening. The spinning is a slow whirring sound.
slaphappygamer
10 kW
Really strange. I just accessed my BaseRunner. I’ve decided I will install the KT system again. This green epoxy, I don’t remember that ever being there. It’s only on the BaseRunner and not inside the frame. As if this material seeped out of the BaseRunner.
I wonder if it's capacitor electrolyte? (but would make more sense if it was uncured potting compound, as that's usually some solid color, while all the cap elecrolyte I've ever seen has been transparent, often brownish or yellowish.
slaphappygamer
10 kW
I’ve reached out to Grin for more guidance. Sent them this photo and linked to this thread. I know they are busy this time of year, so I’ll wait to hear back about what to do next. Thanks for all the input!
slaphappygamer
10 kW
Grin got back to me. They say the green liquid is thermal paste and of no concern. They also say that the stutter is normal at low speeds and that I should adjust throttle ramping to minimize the condition, or try a sine wave controller.
Also seems like reloading the default parameters for the BaseRunner is separate than loading default parameters for the motor. I thought loading default parameters for the BaseRunner would override, and default, the motor settings, but that’s not the case. I’ll try this one last time, then I may toss the BaseRunner and wire my KT controller for the cycle analyst.
Also seems like reloading the default parameters for the BaseRunner is separate than loading default parameters for the motor. I thought loading default parameters for the BaseRunner would override, and default, the motor settings, but that’s not the case. I’ll try this one last time, then I may toss the BaseRunner and wire my KT controller for the cycle analyst.
Well, the BR *is* a sinewave controller (and FOC, too).
So you might want to find out exactly what they meant by that.
Hopefully you mean toss it into the spare parts bin....
slaphappygamer
10 kW
Wow. Bike spins now. I loaded default parameters for the Shengyi SX Standard Wind. I’m glad the controller works. I don’t think I’ll keep it now. Lol.
Will start moving along locking the clutch to introduce regen. I already have the torque arm installed.
I just need to buy my buddy some beer and he can weld the clutch for me, since he has all the equipment. Maybe he will let me practice and I can do it.
Will start moving along locking the clutch to introduce regen. I already have the torque arm installed.
I just need to buy my buddy some beer and he can weld the clutch for me, since he has all the equipment. Maybe he will let me practice and I can do it.
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