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Hyper bicycle mid-drive

G

gromike

Power poster
Joined
Nov 3, 2022
Messages
1,077
Location
Olympic Peninsula, USA
I bought one of these: Robot or human? .
It's an integrated mid-drive and it seems to work well, much better than my TSDZ2b mid-drive. The total bike is the price of a TSDZ2b motor kit. So, I was thinking of buying a few more just for the frame and motor. The problem is it's fitted for a quill stem threaded steerer tube. Would much prefer a standard 1 1/8" threadless steerer tube frame. My question: are there decent suspension forks for a threaded steerer tube currently on the market?
 
It's not decent, just a coil spring unit, but the RST Capa is available in 1 inch. The threads didn't extend far enough to fit my fork stem, and my die could not cut thru its hardened surface. I had enough bare stem on it though that it was safe to convert it to threadless. You can't put a threadless collar over the threads or they might crush,

Tradeoff is it raises the front of the bike 4", which means the seat goes up 2", You will need a new kickstand,

 
gromike said:
much better than my TSDZ2b mid-drive
Click to expand...
In what way is it better? What's it weigh? Who makes the motor? Love my 42 lb TSDZ2 hardtail (odo 2580 mi). $349 is tempting but I have no room for one.
 
My 36v TSDZ2b was so weak it wasn't worth it's weight on the bike. Though I never bothered updating to OSF.
This thing works well as is, been doing many albiet short, test rides up and down the local hills.
This is the motor, quoting Johny Rocket on EBR:
"Vinka C20 250w version here is the Japanese manufacturer details: C20-VINKA MOTOR "
It feels like it puts out about a max of 500w from my uphill runs.
 
I have a huffy that I just replaced the quill stem with the adapter that lets you use regular handlebar stems. That bike came with a vinka hub motor that didn't last long. Hopefully they do better with the mid drive.
 
Why did I look at this? This is so cheap and looks like it's a good local, basic assist that doesn't scream "steal me".
gromike said:
"Vinka C20 250w version here is the Japanese manufacturer details: C20-VINKA MOTOR "
Click to expand...
And from that page, it apparently has cadence & torque sensors, so that could make for a nice ride.

I wonder if it'd be worth cracking open the battery and rebuilding it for 13s/48v would be worthwhile. Although unfortunately it has 3 power ratings, and the highest has a slightly higher weight, so I wonder if 500W/105Nm is the only 48v mode. But there's still a 350W/95Nm, if that's still 36v, I wonder if there's some hidden configuration menus that might unlock that.

At a minimum I bet rebuilding the pack can be done with larger cells to at least extend the range. Only a 7.8Ah. And oddly...the Walmart page has more details than their own website *facepalm*

I thought about getting the Walmart $38 3 year warranty, but decided not to. This is cheap enough as is, and if I change _anything_, even just the seat, it probably voids the warranty *sigh*

I guess in a week or so I'll be back with another opinion on this cheapo ebike.
 
We had festival in my town this weekend and the Hyper bike got a lot of use going up and down hill.

PXL_20250906_171033317.jpg

It doesn't look all that cheap, does it?
The bike's electrics worked well, but the brakes are abysmal. Out of the box this thing needs a decent saddle and new brakes. Already replaced seat, a set of hydraulics reside in the bike parts pile.
Wider tires would be good, so would new wheels (which would probably come from a used bike, if at all.) Bought cheap, keep cheap, but up the quality.

My baseline hope was for this bike to be a better all around mid-drive motor than the 36v TSDZ2b. It beat the TSD hands down. Which happens now to be on sale at Electrify Bike for $495.
I'd call it a pretty good mid-drive for $350, even if you were to dump a couple of hundred more into it.
 
Seems like I made a good choice. But yeah, the saddle definitely seemed like a upgrade I'd need to make.

For the brakes did you just change the brake pads? Or are the calipers/etc just all trash and need to replace them entirely?
 
The calipers are crap and I assume so to are the rotors. I'll put on hydraulic calipers and see how they work with the installed rotors. I believe I have all the parts, maybe even rotors, already.
 
Good to know. I don't know that I want to go up to hydraulic, but decent mechanical calipers doesn't seem all that expensive. I'll see how straight the existing rotors turn.
 
The Avid BB7 MTN version works great on my SB Cruiser trike. 200mm rotor on that is enough to skid the front wheel (you can't get harder braking than that), and modulation is fine.

It's a popular unit, so there are probably counterfeits, so if you find one that seems too cheap compared to the rest....
 
Drizzt321 said:
For the brakes did you just change the brake pads? Or are the calipers/etc just all trash and need to replace them entirely?
Click to expand...
On assembly I would grease an adjust both wheel axle bearings, clean the pads and rotors with? (I guess alcohol), pump up the tires and lube the chain. Maybe a drop of oil in the brake caliper pivot points.
Nothing says cheap bike like the squeal of cheap brakes.
 
FWIW, the squeal is usually an adjustment or wear-in issue.

Sometimes it's a pad material issue.

My Avid BB7s squeal at a specific amount of braking force and wheel speed with the cheapo Dymoece semi-metallic pads I've been using since wearing out the originals.

the orignal pads that came with them from Avid squealed at a different point, which changed and faded as they wore in.


The pads shouldn't need cleaning; if they're contaminated then it's probably not just on the surface (if it is, the alcohol or other solvent might carry it further into the pad, delaying the action the contaminant would have caused until some wear occurs).
 
I am thinking of getting one but a little worried about parts for that motor. Where do they come from the slow boat or kind of fast like AliExpress. I was going to add a 1000 watt hub to give it a good top speed and a boost on hills. If that motor burns up frame is not usable.
 
At the moment a replacement motor cost $350, shipping included. All nicely packaged inside a bicycle.

Without the motor the bicycle would be junk. The step-thru frame is nice, but step-thru bikes have rained down me of late, like this one:
PXL_20250809_191502345.jpg
 
Anyone who has this have a clue if the chainring is a standard bike size easily upgradable or would you need an adapter that probably doesn't exist.
 
hillslayer@ said:
Anyone who has this have a clue if the chainring is a standard bike size easily upgradable or would you need an adapter that probably doesn't exist.
Click to expand...
Pic on the linked page in the OP shows this; 4-bolt type, if you want you could pixelcount things on there to guestimate the BCD to see if it matches anything out there.
1757545284145.png
 
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