Has anyone taken a TongSheng and hooked up an aftermarket controller to it?

[neptronix]

wimpy disc brake adapter on wimpy seat stays is a bad combo, i might do it on a mountain bike out of desperation, but not a cheap road bike.

Throw a pair of these on the back:
Kool Stop Brake Pads

I wouldn't put too strong of a disc brake on the front, it's important that you have close to equal braking power on both sides so that you don't impulsively pull on the strong brake ( front disc ) thinking it's the weak one.

 

[n00b]

wimpy disc brake adapter on wimpy seat stays is a bad combo, i might do it on a mountain bike out of desperation, but not a cheap road bike.

Throw a pair of these on the back:
Kool Stop Brake Pads

I wouldn't put too strong of a disc brake on the front, it's important that you have close to equal braking power on both sides so that you don't impulsively pull on the strong brake ( front disc ) thinking it's the weak one.

That looks like what I was thinking. This is not a cheap road bike, dude.
I know quality.
These are the brakes:

Pardon Our Interruption...

Weight

25.0

https://www.yobicycle.com/road/fuji-ace-48482/specs#google_vignette

Well ya know, that 29er I found in the garbage cost more than that.
It still feels very quality to me. Better than a Trek 400.
Maybe put a front hub motor on it with a 36v battery and call it a day.

 

[docw009]

If you do this, you probably want to fab up some way of cooling the motor. There's an air gap between the motor and the outside case that prevents heat transfer to the outside. People fill it with metal, You'll have to get creative. WIthout an internal controller to protect against water/dirt, you wouldn't need the left side cover, except it has a bracket that is used to clamp the motor to the frame's BB,

I saw a video where a guy did this with the Toseven DM02. He was riding around on a chilly California day pushing 20 amps (1000 watts) thru the motor, Probably had open holes in the motor housing for cooling,

I doubt this ends well on the TSDZ2B,

 

[n00b]

If you do this, you probably want to fab up some way of cooling the motor. There's an air gap between the motor and the outside case that prevents heat transfer to the outside. People fill it with metal, You'll have to get creative. WIthout an internal controller to protect against water/dirt, you wouldn't need the left side cover, except it has a bracket that is used to clamp the motor to the frame's BB,

I saw a video where a guy did this with the Toseven DM02. He was riding around on a chilly California day pushing 20 amps (1000 watts) thru the motor, Probably had open holes in the motor housing for cooling,

I doubt this ends well on the TSDZ2B,

This is a TSDZ8. It looks heavier duty than a BBS02 if you ask me.

 

[docw009]

This is a TSDZ8. It looks heavier duty than a BBS02 if you ask me

I missed that Z8 vs Z2, Bigger motor will do better, Keep it cooled though, Be nice to see vents where the controller used to sit. The wiring ought to be easy,

 

[HazzaHodgson]

Tuning the tsdz8 I've learned the biggest thing with motor heat comes from how the lead angle is run. I've had my external case rech nearly 60 degrees one time testing a build that ended up just loosing all torque and wasting it as heat. Now I can ride around at night and motor feels cold to the touch still when I get back (15° ambient) and it's just a tad warm during daytime. That's with Battery amps 30 and a highly "wheelie addicted" duty cycle rewrite. The less time spent accelerating to the efficient rpm to gear ratio means less heat waste I guess when u choose a controller be mindful about it's erpm and it's foc capability. A programmable one which you can tune the foc on would be the best by miles. I had a geared hub motor before this mid drive and had a 350 watt controller with it. It was kinda fun but I wanted more and bought a 22a controller. Used with a 52v battery. Turned out to be dogshit and highly inefficient as that controller clearly weren't designed for higher erpm. So amps doesn't mean all

 

[n00b]

Oh my damn, I'm trying to just rig up 3 phases and a throttle and controller to this thing. Help?
I do not want something that tries to go when I'm just setting my pedal.
That's very dangerous. What I need to know is how to bypass the torque sensor stuff and make it throttle-only.

 

[n00b]

I don't want no dang firmware, I wanna hook up a Wuxi or Komodo to this thing. What do I have to do?
I'm not running that stock controller. No.
Some Fets and chokes and I'm good, really.
I want my display to be the battery voltage.

 

[n00b]

I missed that Z8 vs Z2, Bigger motor will do better, Keep it cooled though, Be nice to see vents where the controller used to sit. The wiring ought to be easy,

I have yet to make it spin.
What do I need to do here?

With a BBS03, 3 phases and a controller and throttle, that spins.
I ripped the little plug off the black and red one there. Tried to twist them together. That didn't work.

 

[n00b]

Tuning the tsdz8 I've learned the biggest thing with motor heat comes from how the lead angle is run. I've had my external case rech nearly 60 degrees one time testing a build that ended up just loosing all torque and wasting it as heat. Now I can ride around at night and motor feels cold to the touch still when I get back (15° ambient) and it's just a tad warm during daytime. That's with Battery amps 30 and a highly "wheelie addicted" duty cycle rewrite. The less time spent accelerating to the efficient rpm to gear ratio means less heat waste I guess when u choose a controller be mindful about it's erpm and it's foc capability. A programmable one which you can tune the foc on would be the best by miles. I had a geared hub motor before this mid drive and had a 350 watt controller with it. It was kinda fun but I wanted more and bought a 22a controller. Used with a 52v battery. Turned out to be dogshit and highly inefficient as that controller clearly weren't designed for higher erpm. So amps doesn't mean all

Tell me more about wiring it into this motor, pls.

 

[n00b]

What exactly and specifically do you mean by that?

Are you looking for a "tongsheng motor" that is "like a bafang"?

Are you looking for a way to drive an unspecified tonghseng motor (you still haven't told us *which* TS motor) externally?

??

?????

You need to be clear, and specific, and consistent, or we won't be able to help you find what you are looking for.


The thread I linked has a post in it that links specifically to a successful TSDZ2 conversion. It is the only thread I found in a few seconds of searching ES for TSDZ external controllers; I don't have time to do all the research for everyone since no one will do research for me.

If you read around, there are also other discussions around here about the problems with doing it with various versions, mostly because of the torque sensor. Probably most of those are in the various TS (mostly TSDZ variant) threads.

It's a TSDZ8 brah. This isn't rocket surgery. Maybe wiring surgery, but OK..
Please tell me there's no circuit board on the other end.

 

[n00b]

I missed that Z8 vs Z2, Bigger motor will do better, Keep it cooled though, Be nice to see vents where the controller used to sit. The wiring ought to be easy,

Cannot make it spin yet.
I made a BBS03 spin at this point.

 

[docw009]

Cannot make it spin yet.
I made a BBS03 spin at this point.

I guess that means Tong Sheng did something different with green, yellow, and blue. There are 36 possible conbinations, but if you try this flow diagram, you should only need to try four at most, maybe five,


s

 

[n00b]

I guess that means Tong Sheng did something different with green, yellow, and blue. There are 36 possible conbinations, but if you try this flow diagram, you should only need to try four at most, maybe five,

View attachment 379544
s

Well, I didn't hook up the WuxiBull yet. Did a quickie with a Voilamart 36/48v controller and 36 battery that was low.
Thank you so much for that, though.

 

[n00b]

If you do this, you probably want to fab up some way of cooling the motor. There's an air gap between the motor and the outside case that prevents heat transfer to the outside. People fill it with metal, You'll have to get creative. WIthout an internal controller to protect against water/dirt, you wouldn't need the left side cover, except it has a bracket that is used to clamp the motor to the frame's BB,

I saw a video where a guy did this with the Toseven DM02. He was riding around on a chilly California day pushing 20 amps (1000 watts) thru the motor, Probably had open holes in the motor housing for cooling,

I doubt this ends well on the TSDZ2B,

Yeah. It's not getting any speed or hall sensors or displays. No.

 

[Nix Liou]

If you do this, you probably want to fab up some way of cooling the motor. There's an air gap between the motor and the outside case that prevents heat transfer to the outside. People fill it with metal, You'll have to get creative. WIthout an internal controller to protect against water/dirt, you wouldn't need the left side cover, except it has a bracket that is used to clamp the motor to the frame's BB,

I saw a video where a guy did this with the Toseven DM02. He was riding around on a chilly California day pushing 20 amps (1000 watts) thru the motor, Probably had open holes in the motor housing for cooling,

I doubt this ends well on the TSDZ2B,

Yeah, and there's the HV Light Electric Vehicle channel, that guy pushed a DM02 to 2500w with an asi bac855 and no special cooling. Unlike the tongsheng motors, the stator of the DM02 is directly press fit into the housing. Above 2000w will destroy the nylon gear in relatively short order, though.

On earlier firmware, the stock DM02 allowed 18a with a 52v nominal battery, and the thermals were usually fine except for the controller overheating, and the torque sensor getting wonky. So with swapping out the controller, those problems go away at least.

 

[ax_johny]

H

Yeah. It's not getting any speed or hall sensors or displays. No.

Hello, did you succeed? I'm trying to do the same because the original controller went boom from idk what, I don't want to spend 70€ on a new one so I thought why not use this controller with a sw900 screen on it. Everything is hooked up correctly, but it doesn't want to work for some reason, motor does not move, or sound like it accepts power, other motors make a click when you give power to the controller. Any help?

 

[docw009]

The three phase wires are obvious on this TSDZ2B, There's a flat 5 pin connector with power/ground and the three hall sensor outputs. The TSDZ28 should be similar.

Hook it up by color at first and if it doesn't spin, follow the above flow charts. It tells which wires to swap, I've never needed to use it, but other users say it's legit and works,

 

[n00b]

H

Hello, did you succeed? I'm trying to do the same because the original controller went boom from idk what, I don't want to spend 70€ on a new one so I thought why not use this controller with a sw900 screen on it. Everything is hooked up correctly, but it doesn't want to work for some reason, motor does not move, or sound like it accepts power, other motors make a click when you give power to the controller. Any help?

I did succeed! It's on a Fuji I had a BBS03 on before.
Keyed throttle, controller, (KT-style WXBull) and battery and that's it. No halls, phases only.
Oh! I did succeed, because I didn't want any of that stuff.

 

[n00b]

I guess that means Tong Sheng did something different with green, yellow, and blue. There are 36 possible conbinations, but if you try this flow diagram, you should only need to try four at most, maybe five,

View attachment 379544
s

The problem back then was a faulty throttle.
Everything is really straightforward with those, colors match.
Tried a different throttle and it worked fine. You could do the halls if you wanted.
I would recommend leaving the plug in and clipping as close the controller thing as possible,
then splicing in a regular hall male plug.
Could probably find one on a burned up hub motor somewhere.
Or buy a bunch here:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256812187950186.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.2.29fd3PvJ3PvJFn&algo_pvid=7d283db7-37e0-4038-bf01-0409286fe9aa&algo_exp_id=7d283db7-37e0-4038-bf01-0409286fe9aa-1&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%22-1%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21USD%214.74%211.19%21%21%2131.96%217.99%21%402101d6ff17822281103697040ebdd9%2112000058197567684%21sea%21US%213030152536%21X%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3A5b93ec38%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=XoqvPALrPzFx&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005012374264938%7C_p_origin_prod%3A

You'd have to buy at least 9 to get free shipping.

 

[n00b]

wimpy disc brake adapter on wimpy seat stays is a bad combo, i might do it on a mountain bike out of desperation, but not a cheap road bike.

Throw a pair of these on the back:
Kool Stop Brake Pads

I wouldn't put too strong of a disc brake on the front, it's important that you have close to equal braking power on both sides so that you don't impulsively pull on the strong brake ( front disc ) thinking it's the weak one.

The Kool Stops are a great call.

 

[n00b]

It stands like this, except instead of a 36v battery and BBS03, it now is 52v 40A 20 Ah battery and Varstrom TSDZ08.
TSDZ8 is lighter and not as powerful as BBS03, but it is an improvement over BBS02.
That's what I say.
I put the 52V battery to the BBS03, and that was a bit crazy on a bike like that.
It's just the way I wanted it now.
48V 25 Ah with a BBS03 would probably be good, too.

 

[n00b]

I really don't even have to start pedaling now, but I do. It's smooth the way I like it.
It is what it is.
It's not the fastest thing around, but it'll get there, and it weighs less than a tank beach cruiser Huffy.

 

[HazzaHodgson]

This lil motor handles it pretty well

 

[neptronix]

3.5kw is pretty crazy, you'd think it'd go a lot faster with such power. I imagine you're saturating it.
How long will it take that kind of abuse?