Mid drive chain efficiency and longevity tips

I occasionally use a thriftstore-find crockpot to melt broken rubber handgrips, wristrests, etc., and recast those by pouring it into plaster molds.

I use a different bigger one to slow-cook chili, or stew, etc. I don't usually have to plug it in for that--at least in summer, just putting the crock part out in the sun inside a black-painted styrofoam cooler with an open top, and glass lid on the crockpot and the cooler is enough to cook it over the hours of daylight.
 
I occasionally use a thriftstore-find crockpot to melt broken rubber handgrips, wristrests, etc., and recast those by pouring it into plaster molds.

I use a different bigger one to slow-cook chili, or stew, etc. I don't usually have to plug it in for that--at least in summer, just putting the crock part out in the sun inside a black-painted styrofoam cooler with an open top, and glass lid on the crockpot and the cooler is enough to cook it over the hours of daylight.
Yea, it gets real hot here. I have an old crock pot just the pot. Paint it black and put some wax in there and see what happens. Zero energy.
 
A lot of things were gross in the late 70's and early 80's, spent 17yrs out there.
On a related note (related to 90wt oil on chains), there are a number of "wet conditions" bicycle chain lubes out there that are a sticky disgusting mess if you make the mistake of using them. Anything gooey or tacky not only makes your chain into a crap magnet, but it probably doesn't even consistently wick all the way into the pins and bushings where it's needed.

A volunteer at the community bike shop where I work once refilled all the Triflow bottles on the workbenches with some ungodly syrupy "chain lube" that has no business being anywhere near a chain. It took weeks to work through that mess, and I couldn't use any of it for normal chain oil duties. (Chains, index shifters, brake pivots, lever pivots, and derailleur pivots all need light lube that finds its way completely through the mechanism when you apply it to the outside.)

My favorite such lube is a bio-based, radically penetrating oil called Superzilla, which is unfortunately too expensive to use as an everyday chain lubricant. But I routinely use it to unstick click shifters that have gummed up and stopped working. A lil squirt or two applied anywhere on the shifter gubbins not only wicks through the entire thing, but loosens up gummy grease or oil that has immobilized the latches.
 
Question for those who are removing their chains to rewax:

Do you reuse the quick links?

Have a supply of spare quick links?

My waxing days were in the 80s, before quick links were a thing. Driving the pins out and in was a major PIA of the process.
 
Go to goodwill or a thrift store and find a baby crockpot

Even new they are cheaper than most of the waxes.....


I've tried to convince myself to use wax but I just can't seem to justify the benefits over the added hassle. After all, chains are pretty inexpensive and only take a minute or two to lube with something like Muc-Off Dry (my preferred).
 
Nothing about that ad is likely true, other than that you'd be spending money on something. ;) It says it's programmable, but obviously is not, and it says it's two levels, but it has three (not including off), etc. Can't tell about the dimensions, power, or anything else... :roll:
 
Sure...I just prefer to ensure that what is being sold is what is being advertised, and unless no alternative at all is available, never feed the places that lie about what they sell.
 
Question for those who are removing their chains to rewax:

Do you reuse the quick links?

Have a supply of spare quick links?

Nah, just submerge the whole bike in hot wax. If it's such a miracle on the chain, surely it's equally marvelous for all the bike's other moving parts, and will make the thing last forever.
 
My favorite such lube is a bio-based, radically penetrating oil called Superzilla
Oh I looked it up and it surely seems quite nice indeed, but importing it to Europe makes it unfortunately really expensive..
 
Question for those who are removing their chains to rewax:

Do you reuse the quick links?

Have a supply of spare quick links?

My waxing days were in the 80s, before quick links were a thing. Driving the pins out and in was a major PIA of the process.
I just reuse them, never had one break. I think quick links are made much like chains, any name brand will be built to the industry standard which I guess for chains is 8000N which is kinda weird because you look at tests and you expect super heavy chains to be way stronger and they end up being only a little stronger than a super thin 11 speed or something. They just use steel strong enough for the application, no need to make a 6 speed chain from the same high strength steel as the 12 speed unless it's a special cargo bike chain or something designed to exceed the industry standard.
 
I've had these two types split on me:
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This type is reliable:
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If any chain I order comes with the first two, I just throw them out.
 

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I ride on city streets, grimy but not super dusty, rain on a regular basis.
I rode to work for 31 years, 25 of those on ebikes, through weather fair and foul. (now retired)
I tried wax at one point. Found it more trouble than it's worth.
And if I rode through a few rainy days in a row and didn't have time to fiddle with re-lubing it quickly killed the chain.
I'm too cheap to pay $$ for little bottles of bike specific lubes, so I've tried what's already on hand at home or work:
various light machine oils, chainsaw bar oil, which lasts longer but attracts more dirt.
My current favorite is Honda Manual Transmission Fluid, a low viscosity gear oil.
Doesn't attract much dirt, and my chains are lasting longer.
I had 1/2 qt left over from my 1988 Accord and I think it will last a very long time.

I no longer bother removing the chain, degreasing etc.
I just wipe the outside crud off with an old (but clean) sock when it's time to re-lube.
 
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^-- i love those, i've been experimenting with mid drives and all sorts of different ratios and chain length, i have some of these that are both high mileage in terms of riding and also high mileages in terms of connections/disconnections. And they just keep working.

Here's an off kilter thought - why don't bikes have dust shields anymore?
 
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