12v x 4 = 48v wire diagram ?

If more range is your craving, fixing the exisitng motor with a new controller and running 24v would work well. you will gain a few mph and keep the extra speed longer with a 24 ah 24v pack compared to a 12 ah 24v pack. Put two batteries paralell connected in each pannier, and then series connect that to the controller. See the tech reference section for series and paralell, and other good info. Battery university is another good place to learn the basics.

If more speed is what you want, ditch the whole broken thing, and get a hubmotor. Your front fork can handle a motor as long as you get one narrow enough. A 36v motor should go about 32 kph with most kits. 48v possibly 40 kph. Much easier that trying to put on a new motor from a scooter.
 
yes, not that, that's broken :roll:

I would also suggest getting a Watt Meter before spending $$ on new motors etc. Very handy for troubleshooting, checking your power usage. Some cheap ones on hobbycity or ebay.
 
Not to hijack, but this is related...

If you are going to wire 1 battery to an existing battery bank, for a series connection, How is that done? Do you just connect + to the + on the 1st battery and the - to the - on the last?
 
02jze said:
id buy one of those 1000watt motors where in australia can you buy this stuff thats what i wanna know.

Short answer is you can't Best place (i think you have already found?) Is TNCScooter...I thought by the background in the pics you posted you were in Australia. You knopw by law your not allowed on bike paths whilst using the electric motor right? And it is a 200watt maximum in OZ. Long as you know...The 1000watt motor wouldnt be a good fit on that bike, they are very long (i have 2 of them here myself) You could definately pick up one of the controllers from TNCscooter though they would work with your current 1018 motor. I would look at buying something around 500watt motor that would fit better on your existing mount, OH and the #25 chain, is more than capable of the job, guys are putting tripple the power through them than 1000watt motor will with RC Astro motors on reduction drives without them failing, from my own experience they dont stretch a great deal either.

Best of luck

KiM
 
stiffi said:
If you are going to wire 1 battery to an existing battery bank, for a series connection, How is that done? Do you just connect + to the + on the 1st battery and the - to the - on the last?

You guyz... listen to the dogman!
...See the tech reference section for series and paralell, and other good info. Battery university is another good place to learn the basics.

...series would be + to - ... if ya had a 24V pack with the + of one batt already connected to the - of the second, a third batt added would have it's - connected to the + of the second, upping the volts to 36... (or the third batt could be added in between the first and second batt or before the first batt...) but the connections would always be - to +, never + to + or - to - unless ya start to parallel batts, to bump up Ahs not Vs

Lock
 
and O2 no that's not right, that's an open circuit, no electrons can flow.

You have successfully paralleled each of the two sets of batteries (top and bottom), these can each be considered one big battery. Now you must connect these "doubled batteries" in series.

If you connect the red wire on battery box 1 to the black wire on battery box 2 you get a circuit that will supply 24V and the summed capacity (Ah) of the two paralleled batteries (eg 10Ah +10Ah=24Ah). Each paralleled set should have the same capacity or one would run out sooner than the other.


As to a watt meter, they normally go between battery and controller and give lots of info on power, help you ride more efficiently and learn more about your bike. $40-$50 would cover it.
 
I've read all through battery university's wiring section, even before today. I'm just lost on what to do with one extra battery.

For instance, I already have a 4 battery parallel circuit. What I'm asking is how to add 1 additional battery to that circuit in series. I hope that makes sense.

Thanks for your help.

Started a new topic

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=15387#p228481
 
Jeff,

Yes, the last diagram shows 24V 24AH. That should roughly double your range.

Batteries in parallel sum AH

Batteries in series sum Volts.

(FWIW, there you don't need two switches.)
 
eyah i realise that i didnt need them when i wired it but i had holes in the case so it fills them well ill leave it like that. Ill post pics of my new set up in a few hours when i get her going. Ill need to source a charger next. I only have a 12v charger that i dont even own. What charger do you guys recommend ? Is there one i can buy so my batteries dont take 40 hrs for a full charge. 10 hours each battery at present is too bloody long.
 
02jze said:
So adding this blue wire like this will get me running how i need to be.
Good stuff Jeff!

I don't know this scooter parts dealer but here is a page they have with a range of 24V chargers:
http://www.electricscooterparts.com/24vchargers.html

As you can see, the Amp ratings (and the prices) go up as you go down the page... The bigger the Amp rating, the bigger the charger physically, the bigger the price and the faster it will charge yer pack... It sounds like you have been living with a 1A charger, which can't be much fun.

You can see the monster 8A charger near the bottom of the page, $200 and 14.6lbs, but it would charge yer pack in like three hours flat!

In a perfect world you would never run yer pack down below 50% of total capacity. I am used to controllers that cut the power when they figure the batts are down to only 20% left, just so ya don't hurt the batts... So really you will never need to be charging the whole 24Ahs of pack. Hopefully much less... so the 5A or 6A chargers will seem plenty fast (compared w/what you are used to!)

By the time you get down to the 4A charger sizes, the nice thing about those (like the Soneil 2409SR) is that power levels are reduced enough that they don't need cooling fans (which can be noisy) plus they are pretty portable... $100 w/taxes may seem like a lot, but the chargers shown there are high quality. Often ebikes etc are sold with cheap chargers included, and upgrading to a better charger (and I don't mean more Amps) can be the best upgrade as to get longest life outta yer pack

Cheers
Lock
 
DONT buy from them i have dealing with them before they wanted to charge me like 70 bucks to deliver a shockie to Australia...when i queried it they said thats the price that UPS or whoever it was they used says it cost....ALSO the chargers from USA run on 110v not 240v I spoke with TNC Scooters about this and they said they cant supply a charger that runs on 240v...Try EBay i picked up a 48v 240v compatible scooter charger cheap there..

KiM
 
Oooops :)

Tks AJ. Didn't realize Oz was 240 actually. Just FYI though that 2409SR charger has universal input. Runs on anything from 90VAC to 264VAC
Cheers
Lock
 
If you want a cheap 24V SLA charger ecrazyman on ebay (he's honest) ... http://shop.ebay.com.au/e-crazyman/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=25. But for $25 bargain ......

Or I have one that you can have for the price of postage from Perth. 24V 1.6A. It works but does not have a fan so not sure if it will do 24Ah batteries (may possibly overheat - I don't know if they are current limited ?) - I only had 10 or 12 Ah batts.
PM me.

View attachment 17012010_001_.jpeg
 
If you want a cheap 24V SLA charger ecrazyman on ebay (he's honest) ... http://shop.ebay.com.au/e-crazyman/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=25. But for $25 bargain ......
Or I have one that you can have for the price of postage from Perth. 24V 1.6A.

...and earlier I said:
Lock said:
02jze said:
i have that charger but its shitted. If i buy another how long will it last is what worries me.
Which is why you should spend a little more on a better quality charger bought from a reputable source and then there is no worry :wink:

So buy another cheap one from ecrazyman eh? I note in his current offerings that his "fast" 24V charger is rated only 2.5A... and in the details he says "...this item Suitable for 17-20AH battery..." So buy cheap, and accept the longer recharge times and the constant worry about whether the charger will burn out sometime soon...
:roll:
Lock
 
02jze said:
the 12v charger i have used is 750 mA whats that mean ?

It means that you are confident as a man and don't care that you have the tiniest charger on the planet...
:lol:
Lock
 
Yay! ... We'll make you an EV addict in no time :twisted:

Still don't know what you meant though when you described your "speed control" as "stuffed"? Something about a wire hangin' out??? So the controller *does* work OK?
-confused
 
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