19" Motorcycle Wheels vs 26" Bicycle Wheels (rim and tires)

I think all in for both wheels built and ready to fit was about £450. Not cheap but high quality stuff never is. I got the best components available though so I'm sure you could trim the cost a bit. I think the labour was about £110.
 
ouch that is expensive! :oops:

I'm not going so fast, for now only around 30mph. I'm planning at some stage to go to 40-50mph max, but not any faster.

My main concern is the quick wear of my bicycle tyres and puncture, so that's the main reason I'm considering bigger tyre. But spending £500 on that is a lot!

Can I just have this bmx rim:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/stranger-xxl-bmx-rim/rp-prod128844?gs=1&gclid=Cj0KEQjwsIWvBRCnzevvor2g4L8BEiQAAN234WlvoFWYvLc_gfdU0HL_I6S0ehNm1yYaxHafsleF8KkaAjJ68P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

With this moped tyre?
http://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=110&cart_id=4115897.110.10824&Breite=2.25&Quer=&Felge=16&Speed=&Load=&kategorie=&Marke=&tyre_for=&x_tyre_for=&rsmFahrzeugart=MO&filter_preis_bis=&filter_preis_von=&homologation=&details=Ordern&typ=R-130870

then I'd just have to find out where I can find the right spokes length and nipples. And hopefully cost around £100?
 
cwah said:
cyclonebike said:
There is a easy way to make motorcycle wheel with bicycle hub, simply just use 10G nipples with 14G threads, no need washers!

Any idea where I can find decent motorcycle wheel in the UK?

Otherwise this BMX rim seems like a good value and easily available!
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/stranger-xxl-bmx-rim/rp-prod128844?gs=1&gclid=Cj0KEQjwsIWvBRCnzevvor2g4L8BEiQAAN234WlvoFWYvLc_gfdU0HL_I6S0ehNm1yYaxHafsleF8KkaAjJ68P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds


If you can live with the color the Pro wheels in yellow (actually more limegreen) is the cheapest wheels around AFAIK. You find them on ebay for 35$ a piece. If you write to them beforehand they can even ship it by sea for a less then 100$ complete for rims.
 
I don't know about fitting a motorcycle tyre to a bicycle rim, I think you may have a problem getting the bead to sit properly. You say you don't go fast but 30mph is very fast if you fall off!

Motorcycle tyres are much safer than bicycle tyres, more grip, less chance of punctures and considerably harder wearing. If your going to make a compromise because of cost, don't make that compromise with tyres or brakes, they are the difference between crashing or not.
 
Scorefield said:
Hey GCinDC and Rix. :D
Can I ask you guys what kind of front free hub you are driving with and what rim or spoke size you are using.? :oops:

I am running a 32hole Marzocchi hub, with a 32hole prowheel racing 19x1.4 rim with 32hole. The spokes are 13g units with 5.9mm x 16mm nipples. Don't remember what the spokes were cut for length but being that I am running a 32 hole hub rim combo, the length would be different than for a 36hole hub and rim.
 
I just swapped the original 1980 Yokohama tires on my KE100 for Shinko 241's. The original Yokohamas are 2-ply, the Shinko tires are 4-ply. I coast from a stop down a certain hill on a regular basis with the motorcycle in neutral, not running. I could not discern a difference in coasting length between the 2-ply and 4-ply tires.

There you have it, genuine anecdotal evidence that the Shinko 241 tires (2.75X19 & 3.00X 18) have reasonably low rolling resistance. I thought for sure the new tread would be all mushy and would bog me down when coasting, but was pleasantly surprised. The Shinko 241 and 244 are great tires.
 
pucksterpete said:
kiwiev said:
Hey Rick

Thanks for all your great advice I am really happy with the look of 17" moto rear and 24" mtb front. :mrgreen:

Cheers Kiwi

Hey Kiwi Whats under that blue tarp in your bike pic?

Pete

Hey Pete here are some pics

cheers Kiwi :D
 

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Rick that we do or we could just put a picture of CD after he had a drive :D

We really do need a EV grin smile bigger than mr green

Check out Michael at EV west over in California he helped me a bunch.

Cheers kiwi
 
kiwiev said:
Rick that we do or we could just put a picture of CD after he had a drive :D

We really do need a EV grin smile bigger than mr green

Check out Michael at EV west over in California he helped me a bunch.

Cheers kiwi

That would work :mrgreen: , will check Michael at EV West out. Thanks.
 
Rix said:
Scorefield said:
Can I ask you guys what kind of front free hub you are driving with and what rim or spoke size you are using.? :oops:

I am running a 32hole Marzocchi hub, with a 32hole prowheel racing 19x1.4 rim with 32hole. The spokes are 13g units with 5.9mm x 16mm nipples. Don't remember what the spokes were cut for length but being that I am running a 32 hole hub rim combo, the length would be different than for a 36hole hub and rim.

Thank you for the info and I hope you will have a great day on the ebike. :D
 
Scorefield said:
Rix said:
Scorefield said:
Can I ask you guys what kind of front free hub you are driving with and what rim or spoke size you are using.? :oops:

I am running a 32hole Marzocchi hub, with a 32hole prowheel racing 19x1.4 rim with 32hole. The spokes are 13g units with 5.9mm x 16mm nipples. Don't remember what the spokes were cut for length but being that I am running a 32 hole hub rim combo, the length would be different than for a 36hole hub and rim.

Thank you for the info and I hope you will have a great day on the ebike. :D

Back at you Scorefield, everyone deserves to have a great day on an ebike.
 
11986484_10153553201366445_6386307173217470812_n.jpg


just trolling :pancake:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10153553201366445&set=gm.878299998905736&type=1&theater
 
Angles are WAY to extreme for 3x which is technically what that is even though I am counting the cross at the base of the flange. The other factor is the rim's OD isn't nearly big enough for that pattern, have you seen that on an Ebike?
 
Rix said:
Angles are WAY to extreme for 3x which is technically what that is even though I am counting the cross at the base of the flange. The other factor is the rim's OD isn't nearly big enough for that pattern, have you seen that on an Ebike?

10987412_10153554242516445_2437231768636809360_n.jpg



The guy's on ES fB

I posted the link in the last post.
 
cyclonebike,

do you have a source or link to the spoke nipples you used??
thanks,

efMX

cyclonebike said:
There is a easy way to make motorcycle wheel with bicycle hub, simply just use 10G nipples with 14G threads, no need washers!

file.php

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sorry if it's been asked a million times but where do people source a 17" moped rim/spokes for rear hub motors? should fit a 3" tire. or 16" bike rims wide enough to fit a 3" tire (rim should be at least 1.6" width?)
 
AFAIK a 16" bike rim means that the entire diameter including tire would be 16", but moped and motorcycle rims of 17" mean the diameter of just the rim would be 17".

So I don't think you can use the same tire on those two different types of rim.

IIUC a 16" moped/mc tire fits a 20" bicycle rim, or a 16" moped/mc rim.
 
amberwolf said:
AFAIK a 16" bike rim means that the entire diameter including tire would be 16", but moped and motorcycle rims of 17" mean the diameter of just the rim would be 17".

So I don't think you can use the same tire on those two different types of rim.

IIUC a 16" moped/mc tire fits a 20" bicycle rim, or a 16" moped/mc rim.

ah sorry when I said 16" bike rim I really meant 20"...but the actual rim measures 16". Where are 17" moped rims and 20" bike rims (extra wide) commonly sourced? Can't find anything good on ebay.

if i went to a 20" outer diameter tire, my pedals will drop around 3.25" leaving about 3" clearance from the ground at the lowest point. Is this too low? Or is it easy to adapt to keeping the pedals horizonal for turns?
I'm also concerned about hitting big bumps, if my suspension gets activated over a certain point my pedals could hit the ground.
 
Baron said:
amberwolf said:
AFAIK a 16" bike rim means that the entire diameter including tire would be 16", but moped and motorcycle rims of 17" mean the diameter of just the rim would be 17".

So I don't think you can use the same tire on those two different types of rim.

IIUC a 16" moped/mc tire fits a 20" bicycle rim, or a 16" moped/mc rim.

ah sorry when I said 16" bike rim I really meant 20"...but the actual rim measures 16". Where are 17" moped rims and 20" bike rims (extra wide) commonly sourced? Can't find anything good on ebay.

if i went to a 20" outer diameter tire, my pedals will drop around 3.25" leaving about 3" clearance from the ground at the lowest point. Is this too low? Or is it easy to adapt to keeping the pedals horizonal for turns?
I'm also concerned about hitting big bumps, if my suspension gets activated over a certain point my pedals could hit the ground.

If you wanted to run a 16x1.60 rim, you could run this rim with a SHinko 3.00-17 SR241 and your tire width would be closet to 3.5" wide.http://www.prowheelracing.com/yamaha-play-bike-rims/

If you want a 17x1.4 rim, prowheel quite making those with 36 hole spoke drill, but you should be able to get one for a 2009 TTR125 front wheel, just confirm the rim drill is 36H. http://www.oemparts-junction.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=3968395&category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=2009&fveh=177869

Edit/// I forgot, Holmes HObbies has 17x1.6 rims in stock that have specific drill hole angles for hub motors. They are your best bet. http://holmeshobbies.com/Holmes-MMP-17x1.6-Rear-Ebike-Rim.html

Running a 3.00-17 SR241 on that rim measured out at 3.4-3.5" wide with an OD 23.4". Hope this helps.
 
when you guys have your wheel built by a wheel builder. do you have to send it back for fine truing after the first few rides?
i assume it is not perfectly true as new after rolling first couple of times
 
Rix said:
If you wanted to run a 16x1.60 rim, you could run this rim with a SHinko 3.00-17 SR241 and your tire width would be closet to 3.5" wide.http://www.prowheelracing.com/yamaha-play-bike-rims/

If you want a 17x1.4 rim, prowheel quite making those with 36 hole spoke drill, but you should be able to get one for a 2009 TTR125 front wheel, just confirm the rim drill is 36H. http://www.oemparts-junction.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=3968395&category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=2009&fveh=177869

Edit/// I forgot, Holmes HObbies has 17x1.6 rims in stock that have specific drill hole angles for hub motors. They are your best bet. http://holmeshobbies.com/Holmes-MMP-17x1.6-Rear-Ebike-Rim.html

Running a 3.00-17 SR241 on that rim measured out at 3.4-3.5" wide with an OD 23.4". Hope this helps.

Thank you, VERY informative post. I think my bike can only fit a 2.5" tire though (which would be around 3" wide?). Right now I'm leaning towards a 17-2.5 SR244 on the holmeshobbies 17" rim since I ride mostly street, only a little offroad.
 
BCTECH said:
when you guys have your wheel built by a wheel builder. do you have to send it back for fine truing after the first few rides?
i assume it is not perfectly true as new after rolling first couple of times

No, we true our selves. That would be way way costly to ship a completed hub motor and rim to the builder each time you need to true the wheel. If you want, I can walk you through the Rix homey the clown ghetto true technique, paten pending by me using #2 lead pencils :lol: and my swingarm.
 
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