Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[Allex]

You need SD card with firmware on it to adjust contrast

 

[korpin]

You need SD card with firmware on it to adjust contrast

ok got it...does the display come with SM card?..this bike is being built for me not sure what was shipped

i noticed my controller has a cable coming out of it with a UBS port...I was told by HPC this was a DC-DC converter but was wondering....can I upload firmware here instead of SD slot?

also,if i put SD card/memory stick into display,do I lose all my settings while adjusting contrast?

 

[korpin]

"The DC-DC converter function 3.3.9 allows you to use the controller as a
power source with a set voltage, which may be lower than the voltage of the
connected battery.
To use this option, you must be connected to the capacitor/charge coil output.
Enable the function by selecting “ON” in the menu to use the switching DCDC
converter. "

does this mean I need to have the Adappto charging coil to use dc/dc converter?

and if I turn it on,is it still on when display shuts off?

I do not have charging coil but a person at HPC told me it puts out 5 volts

 

[Allex]

No, just use you SD card from you digital camera or something.
You will not loose any settings

USB port is for charging your USB devices only, like gopro or phone. It is not a DC/DC converter

To be able to use DC/DC function you must use the coil and this thing is only available on a unlocked controller(loosing warranty) I dont think you will need it anyway. Some folks use it to boil the water or using playstation when out in the field.

 

[Artur]

Hi, Yes the new firmwares are compatible with the older version, no problem, brainboard is the same.
One small tip for all new users, the first thing you should do is adjust the contrast of the screen. Default setting is very low. Load up a firmware to one SD-card and then boot up the controller with the SD card inserted in to the screen, then follow the instructions on the screen to adjust it.

hi I am having bike built right now with Adappto Midi....do I need to get SD card or is it already in control to adjust contrast?

i have not used it yet i see in instructional video they have brightness adjustment but not contrast..my unit arrived in november 2015

To increase the contrast take off protective layer from the screen. It's almost invisible but make a display a bit blurred.

 

[korpin]

No, just use you SD card from you digital camera or something.
You will not loose any settings

USB port is for charging your USB devices only, like gopro or phone. It is not a DC/DC converter

To be able to use DC/DC function you must use the coil and this thing is only available on a unlocked controller(loosing warranty) I dont think you will need it anyway. Some folks use it to boil the water or using playstation when out in the field.

thank you for the reply allex....this may be a stupid question,but will ANY SD card work?...or does it have to have adappto software on it....guess what I am really asking is: will the act of putting SD card in display (any SD card) bring up the contrast option?

 

[joostj]

Adaptto Midi-E going into limp mode???

I went riding today after upgrading my battery from 14s to 22s. Everything was going great, amazing power...then all of a sudden I lost power going up a hill.

Motor QS 205 / Battery 22s8p 30q with 150amp BMS / NYX frame with controller mounted outside.
Settings (boost). 114 battery amp / 250 phase amp. 180deg C temp cutoff.

Motor temp was at 132 deg C when the incident happened. I waited a few minutes for the motor to cool and everything worked great again.

When I got home I discovered the controller was very hot. Is it possible that the controller would overheat before the motor? It was not a warm day today and the controller is mounted externally.

If so, what would be some safer settings for battery/phase amps?

In hindsight I probably should have gotten the Max-E.

I appreciate any insight...Thanks

 

[ridethelightning]

id say 132C is rather hot for a motor, considering permanent magnets start degrading at >95C.

the controller will start limiting current drastically as the fets climb towards 70C.

the fet temps are not so clear from the main screen, only in health monitor screen. the main screen displays the temp sensor in motor if it is enabled.

all in all, id say your motor tuning settings may not be correct yet.
did you re-auto detect with ovs set 0 after the battery upgrade
you might also need to do some manual tuning..

 

[ccmdr]

Has anyone the ability to explain the 'Wire R' measurement?

Recently flashed to newest PAS Pw Protect firmware on both Mini-E units, however 'Autodetect' brings up quite a varying value from 198 down to 086 on the same motor. So I started tinkering and have found with a lower inputted 'Wire R' resistance via manual tune in 'Advanced' settings enables the top unloaded speed to increase. It also looks like the current draw decreases, but it's hard to get an accurate average measure with the figure's constantly changing in 0.1A increments .

I.e 'Crossbeck' measured 38.6 mOhm on a cromotor
Whilst here madin88 has info from 'andreym' (6th post from bottom) has Wire R 092 on thier cromotor.

Haven't completed load tests as the batteries out on the way to fitting 120W DC-DC, headlight and rear flasher.

 

[madin88]

I.e 'Crossbeck' measured 38.6 mOhm on a cromotor
Whilst here madin88 has info from 'andreym' (6th post from bottom) has Wire R 092 on thier cromotor.

Cromotor V2 and V3 are 4T QSV2 motors and they have about 90mOhm with stock phase wires.
the motor crossbreak has measured is the QSV3 (or Cromotor V4??) and this one additionally had higher kV.

 

[Artur]

Adaptto Midi-E going into limp mode???

I went riding today after upgrading my battery from 14s to 22s. Everything was going great, amazing power...then all of a sudden I lost power going up a hill.

Motor QS 205 / Battery 22s8p 30q with 150amp BMS / NYX frame with controller mounted outside.
Settings (boost). 114 battery amp / 250 phase amp. 180deg C temp cutoff.

Motor temp was at 132 deg C when the incident happened. I waited a few minutes for the motor to cool and everything worked great again.

When I got home I discovered the controller was very hot. Is it possible that the controller would overheat before the motor? It was not a warm day today and the controller is mounted externally.

If so, what would be some safer settings for battery/phase amps?

In hindsight I probably should have gotten the Max-E.

I appreciate any insight...Thanks

For this power level you might need Max-e, not a Midi.. But try to reset the settings and to autodetect again.

 

[joostj]

all in all, id say your motor tuning settings may not be correct yet.
did you re-auto detect with ovs set 0 after the battery upgrade
you might also need to do some manual tuning..

I did the auto detect once after the battery change....but ovs was set at 5.
So that will be first on the list.

I'm not to sure where to start with the manual tuning...time to read the threads again.

For this power level you might need Max-e, not a Midi.. But try to reset the settings and to autodetect again.

That's definitely my lesson learned. I started this project with a mxus before switching to the QS. What an amazing difference in raw power, wow. Also tried to save a few buck by going with the Midi over the Max, which in hindsight is very foolish considering the motor and battery choices.

To do list:
1. Set OVS to zero
2. reset the settings and run auto detect again.
3. gradually reduce battery and phase amps till the problem disappears.
4. Save up for the Max-E

Thanks for the responses

 

[joostj]

Also ordered these heat sinks with thermal adhesive

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-40x40x11mm-Thermal-Adhesive-Pad-Black-Extrude-Aluminium-Heat-Sink-Radiator-/111397328952?hash=item19efcc5838:g:~64AAOSws65TpbLy

I'll run 4 on each side of the controller.

 

[madin88]

That's definitely my lesson learned. I started this project with a mxus before switching to the QS. What an amazing difference in raw power, wow. Also tried to save a few buck by going with the Midi over the Max, which in hindsight is very foolish considering the motor and battery choices.

what QS motor exactly?

 

[brooklands]

One question about the Adaptto BMS: Am I right when I assume that the connection of BMS and Controller is only needed when setting the BMS up or 'visualizing' the cell status? And when it is not connected to the controller it works like a normal BMS?

The reason for my question is that I am carrying my battery in a backpack and I don't want another cable going from there to my bike.

 

[ridethelightning]

all in all, id say your motor tuning settings may not be correct yet.

I'm not to sure where to start with the manual tuning...time to read the threads again.
good explanation/guide here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=27911&p=918729&hilit=motor+settings#p918729



To do list:
1. Set OVS to zero
2. reset the settings and run auto detect again.
3. gradually reduce battery and phase amps till the problem disappears.
4. Save up for the Max-E

there may still be good power and speed to be had with the midi, once the tunings are correct.
this can be quite difficult task to get right, and really requires a lot of patience,time and trial and error.
note: sometimes a tuning setting at ovs 0 will actually work better (lower temps) at a diffrerent ovs setting, like 5 or so..

 

[sn0wchyld]

Also ordered these heat sinks with thermal adhesive

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-40x40x11mm-Thermal-Adhesive-Pad-Black-Extrude-Aluminium-Heat-Sink-Radiator-/111397328952?hash=item19efcc5838:g:~64AAOSws65TpbLy

I'll run 4 on each side of the controller.

The only major source of heat is the side with the screws running allong it. Placing heat sinks on any other side will have a minimal impact on dissipation. I wouldn't bother for any others than the side with the screws, as this controller runs very cool anyway (very low Ron fetts).

 

[sn0wchyld]

One question about the Adaptto BMS: Am I right when I assume that the connection of BMS and Controller is only needed when setting the BMS up or 'visualizing' the cell status? And when it is not connected to the controller it works like a normal BMS?

The reason for my question is that I am carrying my battery in a backpack and I don't want another cable going from there to my bike.

afaik it doesn't do anything when disconnected. It requires the controller's 'brain' to operate.

 

[ridethelightning]

Also ordered these heat sinks with thermal adhesive

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-40x40x11mm-Thermal-Adhesive-Pad-Black-Extrude-Aluminium-Heat-Sink-Radiator-/111397328952?hash=item19efcc5838:g:~64AAOSws65TpbLy

I'll run 4 on each side of the controller.

The only major source of heat is the side with the screws running allong it. Placing heat sinks on any other side will have a minimal impact on dissipation. I wouldn't bother for any others than the side with the screws, as this controller runs very cool anyway (very low Ron fetts).

myabe, perhaps not.

i have noticed sticking aluminium objects to any side of the controller with air flow over them significantly reduced the temps, even without thermal gupe or pads.
perhaps because the aluminium controller case is quite a good conductor, and can move the heat away from the fet side quite fast, but it has a limited surface area to transfer to the air....

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Also ordered these heat sinks with thermal adhesive

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-40x40x11mm-Thermal-Adhesive-Pad-Black-Extrude-Aluminium-Heat-Sink-Radiator-/111397328952?hash=item19efcc5838:g:~64AAOSws65TpbLy

I'll run 4 on each side of the controller.

The only major source of heat is the side with the screws running allong it. Placing heat sinks on any other side will have a minimal impact on dissipation. I wouldn't bother for any others than the side with the screws, as this controller runs very cool anyway (very low Ron fetts).

myabe, perhaps not.

i have noticed sticking aluminium objects to any side of the controller with air flow over them significantly reduced the temps, even without thermal gupe or pads.
perhaps because the aluminium controller case is quite a good conductor, and can move the heat away from the fet side quite fast, but it has a limited surface area to transfer to the air....

Yeah I would second that.
I also just added my old round stock Intel CPU heat-sink to the front of my controller for extra cooling. Now it really looks like some kind of Madmax bike from the future. :lol:

Cheers

 

[joostj]

Yeah I would second that.
I also just added my old round stock Intel CPU heat-sink to the front of my controller for extra cooling. Now it really looks like some kind of Madmax bike from the future.

I figure putting fins on both sides would add to the cool factor as well.

Also it occurred to me that by covering the controller with carbon fiber(fake) wrap might act as in insulator, so that is coming off as well.

 

[joostj]

what QS motor exactly?

QS 205 v3 5t

Nothing against the mxus, it will be used to build a great bike for my kids or wife someday...it just wasn't giving me the power I wanted. Granted I did not put that much time is fine tuning it before switching it out.

Keep in mind I am 220lbs

 

[Offroader]

what QS motor exactly?

QS 205 v3 5t

Nothing against the mxus, it will be used to build a great bike for my kids or wife someday...it just wasn't giving me the power I wanted. Granted I did not put that much time is fine tuning it before switching it out.

Keep in mind I am 220lbs

What winding Mxus were you using? DId you use the same controller and power on both motors?

I am surprised if you noticed that much difference because Evelbike said that the difference was not very much and not worth the extra weight.

 

[ridethelightning]

+1, thats what i thought too, after madin said as much, just that the mxus will overheat faster if not vented, having less pork to absorb the heat

 

[joostj]

I had the 4t mxus. It was purchased used, then I upgraded the phase wires and the axle. At the time the mxus was installed, I was only using my 14s8p battery.

It would heat to about 105 deg Celsius fairly quickly.

When the QS was installed I ran auto detect again and now it could get up hills that the mxus could not. The extra weight was not noticeable, and when i was riding the same trails as before the motor temps stayed in the 85 deg Celsius range.

Both motors were run at 80 amp/bat and 150 amp/phase, ovs at 5.

Both with no fine tuning at all, which could account for this variation in itself.

I have a 22s8p battery in there now. It's possible that with the higher voltage battery, the difference would not be as noticeable??