Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[Allex]

New firmware solves one problem:
Fixing display flickering when using high voltage setup(+87V)
Otherwise nothing new.

 

[gensem]

=/
I was expecting to see over 99km/h in the main screen.

 

[brumbrum]

Alright, Brum. Sounds like you're having very much similar experiences with Adaptto/Cro guessing V3 as I did. Autodetect 1:5 works, but then not properly comparing it to the HS3540 on the other bike.

Once you've checked from where your smoke damage came from, I'd highly recommend not bothering with Autodetect and do a manual setup. It's a little bit more faffing, but if you get bored and try the Autodetect again it'll likely sod all your hard work up. I've foolishly 'thought' it would be a good idea.. twice. Btw my Cro stopped abruptly at speed too, hall wire came loose n shorted, instant RMA .

If you insist on running Autodetect, the 'best' method for a 1:5 chance of a 'rough' detect, stop your hub rotating for first 5-10 secs where it appears to set hall phase sequence, ensure you set your maximum speed (in eco/norm/boost para) to 85% ish of your estimated freewheel speed. This should stop the motor going bonkers towards the end. You'll still need to fine tune the hall angles and hall/motor response time.

Its a great time saving tool, however it isn't something you 'need' to do, just input settings manually once the hub is rotating in the correct direction .

Edit- As for hall watching although 001-111 etc try looking at the H1-6 instead for correct hall sequencing.

Madin8 - C63 are for overcurrent protection, for example my A123 20ah could go 10C = 200amps on the poor little Mini-E that can only take 65ish Amp. Instead of blowing up a controller on fault the breaker will trip and save primarily 'me'the user from a thumping great belt . Reason for spark is an immediate in-rush demand from the controller, anti-spark kinda trickle feeds the caps instead of dumping it in a oner. Hence if you leave batt connected all the time caps are charged n waiting for fets to allow them to dump their load .

Nother Edit - Mini-E has x1 63a breaker coz max batt demand is 60-65A constant'ish and Max-E has x2 coz 160a max batt constant'ish, however it'd be interesting to see a MAX-E pull 160amps for more than the few seconds it takes to trip the x2 breakers .

Thanks for taking the time to write that up. I have just soldered up my spare set of halls and the halls sequence (H1-6) is all good and in correct count from 1 to 6

Can someone check my throttle calibration please....
My hall throttle signal is 0.8v to 4.0v, i have set the calibration to 1.0v to 4.2v

 

[ccmdr]

Brum - looks good to me, although the pics are of the upper/lower limits not the throttle accel curve which would be more pertinant for a speed crazed hub :wink:.

 

[brumbrum]

Brum - looks good to me, although the pics are of the upper/lower limits not the throttle accel curve which would be more pertinant for a speed crazed hub :wink:.

Thanks, How is the acceleration calibration done? Do i need to do that for an autodetect?

 

[ccmdr]

Brum - Off the top of my head think it's called 'Throttle Linear' in 'Calibration'. Should be just under theoption to adjust upper/low limits . No 'Autodetect', just the 'Throttle Linear' and a gentile twist of the throttle .

 

[brumbrum]

Brum - Off the top of my head think it's called 'Throttle Linear' in 'Calibration'. Should be just under theoption to adjust upper/low limits . No 'Autodetect', just the 'Throttle Linear' and a gentile twist of the throttle .

Yes, ive just been reading throught the manual again, i had mistaken the limits of the throttle with the linearity of the throttle. I will have a go at setting it up. Is it me, or does the manual seem a bit mixed up in its descriptions with some things just passed over quickly and other things in detail.

 

[Jonboy]

top pic mint .. bottom pic lift it to top out.

 

[Offroader]

Quick question.

How accurate is the Max-E charge rate when set?

My cells in my 20s14p pack have a 1.6 amp max charge rate.

So I will set it to charge at 1 amp per cell, so it will be 14 battery amps amps in the charge setup.

If I set my max-e at 14 amps, can I trust the Max-E will charge at 14 amps?

 

[brumbrum]

Can the throttle linearity only be performed after a successful autodetect?
I have tried many times to do the linearity but just get numbers and no graph. In the manual, the auto detect is done first, and then throttle afterwards.

 

[ccmdr]

Offroader - This isn't 'measured' info, just apparent. I've noticed the charge Amps tend to err on the side of caution. When chargeing at a set limit, the charge rate tends to tetter on the lower end of the said limit i.e. 20Amp Charge Rate- flutters around an indicated 19.2-20Amps.

Brum - Throttle Linear can be done at any time, it's just a voltage measurment from the throttle Hall sensor, not heard or seen of a numerical screen? Maybe guys with Potentiometer throttles see something different, although I can't see why/how it's just +/- & signal ? Have you checked the electrical operation of the throttle manually, might be worth doing?

Should be a graph like format as you rightly say. This sounds like an Adaptto question to me, although maybe try the firmware flash, be aware the SD card reader is quite finickity to type of SD card ...

Just for a visual reference would you post a pic of the throttle linear screen in numerical format ?

 

[brumbrum]

Offroader - This isn't 'measured' info, just apparent. I've noticed the charge Amps tend to err on the side of caution. When chargeing at a set limit, the charge rate tends to tetter on the lower end of the said limit i.e. 20Amp Charge Rate- flutters around an indicated 19.2-20Amps.

Brum - Throttle Linear can be done at any time, it's just a voltage measurment from the throttle Hall sensor, not heard or seen of a numerical screen? Maybe guys with Potentiometer throttles see something different, although I can't see why/how it's just +/- & signal ? Have you checked the electrical operation of the throttle manually, might be worth doing?

Should be a graph like format as you rightly say. This sounds like an Adaptto question to me, although maybe try the firmware flash, be aware the SD card reader is quite finickity to type of SD card ...

Just for a visual reference would you post a pic of the throttle linear screen in numerical format ?

I have just been taking the whole thing apart to chexk everything out before assembling it all back togather again, which has been a roysl pain in the ar$e, so please bare with me, i will try and get a photo up later.

 

[DasDouble]

Is it possible to reset from Boost mode to Eco mode just by turning off and on the key?

 

[brumbrum]

This is what i see in order.
This hall throttle has come straight off a working bike.

In the bottom picture, the values change when the throttle is opened up.

 

[ziltoid81]

Someone here using a QS 205 V3 5t?

I came from a MXUS 3000 4t (same kv) in a 24 inch bicycle rim and the QS is in a 18 inch rim.
I did auto detect only for both motors, but the QS have a way higher consumption.........

I think its around 20-30% higher consumption, in the SMALLER wheel.

Maybe the adaptto having some problems with the QS, this is what i was reading here and there.
But the auto detect worked and the motor runs noiseless.

 

[BCTECH]

Someone here using a QS 205 V3 5t?

I came from a MXUS 3000 4t (same kv) in a 24 inch bicycle rim and the QS is in a 18 inch rim.
I did auto detect only for both motors, but the QS have a way higher consumption.........

I think its around 20-30% higher consumption, in the SMALLER wheel.

Maybe the adaptto having some problems with the QS, this is what i was reading here and there.
But the auto detect worked and the motor runs noiseless.

I have QS 205 V3 and 17in , havn't tired autodetect yet
what sort of problem you are running into?

 

[bigbore]

My runs were 30-90seconds at 20s 160 amps with one ABB c63 breaker without issues. The videos I took did use that setup.

Now I'm taking care of it. I've been running two paralleled CC 63A breaker from about 6 months and while going back home at night when there is no one on the road I stay at 160A batt current for 3-4 km doing 80-90Km/h .... so far so good .... the controller stay coll and the motors I tried 5403 and QS205 reach is temp limit at about 125-130°C

 

[bigbore]

Someone here using a QS 205 V3 5t?

I came from a MXUS 3000 4t (same kv) in a 24 inch bicycle rim and the QS is in a 18 inch rim.
I did auto detect only for both motors, but the QS have a way higher consumption.........

I think its around 20-30% higher consumption, in the SMALLER wheel.

Maybe the adaptto having some problems with the QS, this is what i was reading here and there.
But the auto detect worked and the motor runs noiseless.

I've been running QS205 Extra/V3 30X4T with Max-e and 20S14P 18650 battery. I think the motor runs good and the only little issue I have is the torque fluctuation during downhill and deceleration on flat road if I stay with the throttle between 1/4 and 1/2 opened. Should it be a wrong Ind timing value?

 

[ziltoid81]

I have QS 205 V3 and 17in , havn't tired autodetect yet
what sort of problem you are running into?

Im experiencing more wh consumption in a smaller wheel compared to my old little MXUS with less copper fill.......this cant be normal.

 

[ziltoid81]

I've been running QS205 Extra/V3 30X4T with Max-e and 20S14P 18650 battery. I think the motor runs good and the only little issue I have is the torque fluctuation during downhill and deceleration on flat road if I stay with the throttle between 1/4 and 1/2 opened. Should it be a wrong Ind timing value?

I maybe notice a little roughness in the bike, when i accelerate or regen brake, but its hard to figure out if its the tire or the motor.
I feel it isnt there when i release the throttle and just roll.

Max speed was 88kmh with the QS@ ovs 7 and 82v, the MXUS 94kmh with the same settings (A), acceleration is a little bit stronger, but the MXUS in a smaller rim would also perform better so im expecting way more efficiency and torque from the QS.

Maybe i have to set up some settings manually, but dont know where to start.

 

[ziltoid81]

Is it possible to reset from Boost mode to Eco mode just by turning off and on the key?

When you turn the bike off with the breaker it will always start in eco mode.
If that was your question......
Dont know how the newer version with the on off option will operate.

 

[brumbrum]

I can honestly say, Auto detect just does not work with my cromotor
I have tried a number of differing phase wire combinations...
I have eliminated temp sensor wires...
I have tried a different set of hall sensors...
I have completely stripped my bike down today and check all external components and wiring and then rebuilt it all.

I was somewhat stupidly under the impression that auto detect did it all for you :lol: how naïve was i ?

Where's my mate Jonboy? Jon, its time to copy in all your settings. I have thrown in the towel. :lol:

 

[brumbrum]

from manual

If, during the rotation of the motor numbers "y" sometimes takes the value of "0" or other sequence of digits, the hall sensors are not working properly, or motor sensors have an angle of 60 degree angle. (If 60 degrees - then you need to reverse one of the hall sensors in the motor, not all, but a specific sensor) Choose the direction of rotation of the motor. If you rotate the motor forward, the menu "health monitor" values after saying "Halls:" should increase. If the numbers are falling, then change the setting "Hall reverse" or "Direction" 3. Setting the phase combinations. Setting consists of setting the direction of the control of the signal and the phase shift control signal. Change the direction of the motor rotation by changing setting "wire reverse". To determine the correct direction try applying a little throttle. When current is applied to the motor, it may stay at a specific position (or the motor may begin to oscillate, trying to stay in the same position). You may feel a spring effect while trying to force the motor one way or the other from the established position. If the wheel does not rotate there are two possible reasons. a) If you try to spin the motor by hand while applying low power, you may feel the motor trying to turn in the reverse direction at pronounced intervals. If the motor behaves this way, then you need to change the setting "wire reverse". b) If you try to spin the motor by hand while applying low power, and the motor turns very slowly, or if the motor is stationary but feels springy when trying to rotate the motor one direction or the other, it means the setting "wire reverse" is correct and you need to change the setting hall "offset". After the selection of wire reverse choose a Hall offset (total 6 combinations possible), where the motor rotates in the forward direction without using excess power.

hmmm. is there a "y" showing near the halls digits in health screen?



you should be ok to try a few things, but never try to give it full throttle unless its running smoothly. just keep it at low power.
-changing the phase wires over changes the hall offset. 120/60/180deg/ etc. this might have an improvement.[note] some combos seem to give better efficiency/smoothness.
- angle corr setting in advanced settings. play around and see if the wheel will turn smoother.
-try to change WIRE REVERSE

Here is the values set on my original cromotor:
regen setup-> Torque rise 0111
min speed -> 003
traction settings ->pwm rise lim 0080
->spd smooth 20000
Advanced setup ->PWR timing 1.42
->PWR timing2 1.41
->OVS 003
->Wire R 092
->Motor KV 06632
->Wire R phc yes

try using these values and see if the wheel spins on normal mode(not autodetect)

I think i will be trying some of these settings/adjustments next.

 

[BCTECH]

I have a question on my max e. I got 74V battery power going in, but there seems no power coming out from the controller. I checked the display and hall plug read 0 voltage.
All connections triple checked.
I think the only way is to send back to the factory, but before I do that, does anyone know how I can measure anywhere to know anything?
I have on/off feature but not sure if I can get any reading to check from the on/off wire or other place?
it could be a simple loose connection? I wish

 

[Offroader]

I have a question on my max e. I got 74V battery power going in, but there seems no power coming out from the controller. I checked the display and hall plug read 0 voltage.
All connections triple checked.
I think the only way is to send back to the factory, but before I do that, does anyone know how I can measure anywhere to know anything?
I have on/off feature but not sure if I can get any reading to check from the on/off wire or other place?
it could be a simple loose connection? I wish

I remember someone saying that they shorted the on / off wires against the controller case. They were complaining that adaptto had the wires with the copper exposed so it would short easily.

Does anyone remember this and what happened exactly to the controller?

Maybe this could be the issue.