Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[Doctorbass]

Hey guys My charge coil is finally perfectly working now!!

The coil and caps remain cold ( 25-30 Celsius at 1050Watts)

I have built many different coil from various core that i had and finally i decided to order the "E" shape core that the russian site was recommanding ( Jeka on the forum) and i have used 50 strands of insulated 22 gauge copper that i twisted and paralleled together and wound 18 turn.

I have 112uH inductance in serie and 1200uF 100V caps in parallel to the power supply.

This work perfectly and i was said that this setup is good to charge at up to 3 to 4 kW!

I am really happy now!!


[youtube]pJtUT9-CF9s[/youtube]

(Same post on the NYX bike project)

Doc

 

[ridethelightning]

well done doc!
true enthusiasm has a way of making things happen.

nice to know that it is possible to do.

how does the size /weight compare to the stock coil?

great pics of the bench with all the other coil attempts :lol:

 

[Doctorbass]

well done doc!
true enthusiasm has a way of making things happen.

nice to know that it is possible to do.

how does the size /weight compare to the stock coil?

great pics of the bench with all the other coil attempts :lol:

Well i spend about 10 hours of making various coils and trying them with various unsucessfull result.

I finally got the part number at Digikey to order the "E" shape transformer core that they used on the firsts version of the charge coil ( just before thet reduce the size with the dual toroidal core)

And once i got the core and wound it with various wires... EVERYTHING began to work !!

It's a big core that weight like 2-3 more than the dual toroidal core i guess... but this core is good for up to 4kW

Yes it is big and weight about 1kg :lol:

but I have measured the coil resistance and it is just 3 miliohm!!!. ( 0.3V at 100A DC)

At 70A of power supply current it would dissipate 14.7watts only... not bad !!

Also the caps remain cold witch is a good sign that the capacity i used is the right number..with lower capacity they would just heat and explode.

So the recommanded inductance in the Adaptto manual is between 15 and 30 uH and the capacitor are beetween 470 to 1000uF


I have 112uH inductance and about 1200uF.

According to Jeka on the russian forum( the designer of the Adaptto) the more inductance i have the lower the voltage i can use to charge can be.

Witch mean that actually i could cahrge from any single 12V car battery

I also charged from a ping battery as a source at 40A and 47V i was charging at 1800W

Doc


Doc

 

[GreenRoad]

good work!
now i think i will try again to build up a charging coil again

 

[madin88]

good to see you got it working doc. looks fantastic^^

would it make sense to use more than 1000 µF and / or better capacitors in terms of heat and reliability (controller and psu lifetime)?

 

[Doctorbass]

good to see you got it working doc. looks fantastic^^

would it make sense to use more than 1000 µF and / or better capacitors in terms of heat and reliability (controller and psu lifetime)?

YES !!

higher capacitance will help as well.. from what I have observed if you don't have enough they will heat.

Also having quality capacitor with Low ESR is better too as they can cary more current and have lower ripple current.

On the other hand, if you put too much capacitance you'll get a bigger spark when connecting to your psu if it is power ON... you might add a precharge resistor... :lol:

Doc

 

[madin88]

thanks for the infos. thats what i was thinking..
as i'm going to connect the caps and coil permanent to the PSU there will not be a problem with sparks. Between controller and coil there cannot be, right?
i found a nice case for the EATON psu in which also is room for the coil and wires. will post pics or start thread if i have finished!

 

[GreenRoad]

normaly you connect the Charging coil direct to the PSU.
The capacity must also be at the PSU Side -as near as possible to the coil.
The capacity have to give the peak power to the coil.... (easy explanation)
The dimension / capacity depands on the current - and should be dimensioned to the coil and current.
Thats why it is not good to use an higher value than you realy need for the capacity- otherwise you produce stress to the PSU
- or the capacity getting warm / hot
The combination between Coil / capacity has to fit together

 

[Doctorbass]

Yesterday, with my actual DIY 112uH coil and 1200uF caps I was able to charge my 22s pack from two 12V 17Ah lead acid battery in serie ( 24V) for testing...

It draw 52A from the 24V ( witch has drop to 21V) and I got 1050W charging power =)

The coil was cold and cas too at 50A 8)

that's 1092W 24V in to 1050W 90V out !!

look like the efficiency is really well! 96%!

But.. as well my coil weight 2 pounds !! :lol:

Doc

 

[GreenRoad]

really good work!
when i find time i will try it again - i talked allready with my friend that he makes one coil for me...
It would be interesting to have an low Current charge coil.... for me 5A output is enough....

 

[ridethelightning]

Yesterday, with my actual DIY 112uH coil and 1200uF caps I was able to charge my 22s pack from two 12V 17Ah lead acid battery in serie ( 24V) for testing...

It draw 52A from the 24V ( witch has drop to 21V) and I got 1050W charging power =)

The coil was cold and cas too at 50A 8)

that's 1092W 24V in to 1050W 90V out !!

look like the efficiency is really well! 96%!

But.. as well my coil weight 2 pounds !! :lol:

Doc

thats amazing doc.
i noticed how much the coil/controller and caps got hot using a 12v psu last time.

stepping 12v up to 90v with so little heat at 50A is some acheivement.

 

[madin88]

It would be interesting to have an low Current charge coil.... for me 5A output is enough....

YES exactly!
I believe the coil is rated for input current so 5A maybe is a bit low. for my usage 30-40A would be perfect (which would be only 400W if it works with 12V input).

 

[lennovich]

Hello Guys,

Did the first testride with my vector + cro v3 + Max e, it rides verry good but my topspeed is a poor 62kmu, In boost mode i set all to the max. I can not go further of 127 battery amps in the settings. Is this normal?
I hit max 7,5 kw ,is it possible that my settings or hardware are not good. Why i cant go to 140 amps? If i calculate i push only about 100 amps out of the max e...
I drive on 20s lipo multistar 16ah on 26" wheels.
It pulls pretty good but i "expect" a little more ,my hs3420 in my cannondale runs 60kmu on 75 volts.

 

[Doctorbass]

Hello Guys,

Did the first testride with my vector + cro v3 + Max e, it rides verry good but my topspeed is a poor 62kmu, In boost mode i set all to the max. I can not go further of 127 battery amps in the settings. Is this normal?
I hit max 7,5 kw ,is it possible that my settings or hardware are not good. Why i cant go to 140 amps? If i calculate i push only about 100 amps out of the max e...
I drive on 20s lipo multistar 16ah on 26" wheels.
It pulls pretty good but i "expect" a little more ,my hs3420 in my cannondale runs 60kmu on 75 volts.

This might be due to your LVC that could be set too high.

If you draw 120A and that your battery voltage sag too much and reach the LVC limit, the max amp you can draw will be limited to not let the battery drop under the LVC.

Also if your motor is wound to be slow, it will take more volt to get the top speed and also continue to draw the current required to push the desired power at that voltage. The solution for that is to use the OVS feature witch will make your motor to continu drawing power at high speed witch will add the torque needed to pushing that speed further.

My Max E can’t draw more than 138A.. it just don’t reach the 140A.. it’s the firmware.. I’m using the RC9e but you can use the RC7 witch is more “unlocked” but still Is locked so still under warranty.

If you have only 16Ah and ask your battery to draw 140A, you are asking your cells to give about 9C rate witch is pretty high so this is nor mal if your voltage sag too much and in this case it is probable that you hit the LVC.

Doc

 

[lennovich]

Thanks, will check tomorrow.

 

[wingsuit]

is there a rough guide for the cromotor and mini-e? the ebikes.ca calc doesnt list the cro. I'm putting an 84v 20ah battery (25r 18650)through the mini-e and into a cromotor v2 (just about to order the bat) . its going onto my 100lb phasor (weight once the battery is in.

trying to get a rough idea if I'm going to be happy with the speed numbers from that battery/controller combo. Can anyone out there give mph estimates with the mini-e/cromotor combo?

 

[Doctorbass]

is there a rough guide for the cromotor and mini-e? the ebikes.ca calc doesnt list the cro. I'm putting an 84v 20ah battery (25r 18650)through the mini-e and into a cromotor v2 (just about to order the bat) . its going onto my 100lb phasor (weight once the battery is in.

trying to get a rough idea if I'm going to be happy with the speed numbers from that battery/controller combo. Can anyone out there give mph estimates with the mini-e/cromotor combo?

Nice bike!

 

[xenodius]

Just got my Max-E back from repair for... well, I still don't know what was wrong or how it was fixed but they worked their magic fast. Haven't opened it up. But when I got it back, it was running older firmware and my total stats had been cleared.

And it works! However, I'm having some interesting issues. It flashes PROTECT briefly, with loss of power, when accelerating hard; I can pull as much as 90 battery amps without having it cut out, but only at a good clip. I have to really baby the heck out of it off the line. I've checked all the settings and I'm not sure what's causing it.

I even tried moving my phase wires away from the halls/temp line in case that was causing some fault, though I'd expect OVH/HALLS errors in that case. No dice.

I flashed the latest firmware, reset all the settings... still no dice.

Thoughts?

Great looking bike, wingsuit!! Here's a link to a calculator made by swbluto, I used to have data for the Cro in there but I can't find it right now. Resistance, I think is 44.5 ohms... inductance is pretty low. Kv is 9.3.

Here's the calc: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/rb12poa9rie87h3/AADcSzo-F6k0GXOdJWEZohL3a?dl=0

 

[Scott]

is there a rough guide for the cromotor and mini-e? the ebikes.ca calc doesnt list the cro. I'm putting an 84v 20ah battery (25r 18650)through the mini-e and into a cromotor v2 (just about to order the bat) . its going onto my 100lb phasor (weight once the battery is in.

trying to get a rough idea if I'm going to be happy with the speed numbers from that battery/controller combo. Can anyone out there give mph estimates with the mini-e/cromotor combo?

My bike is probably around 70ish pounds and I am getting around 43 mph. I really need to mess with the tuning more and get OVS working. When I tried OVS before it made no difference. The controller starts limiting my power if I go full throttle for 1/3 of a mile because of heat. Does anyone have different settings for the cromotor? Because the ones I saw listed on here don't seem to work too well.

I'm using my school's mini-E and a cromotor.

Also does anyone know if there is a way to adjust the "Angle Corr." by .1 instead of .4 each click?

 

[xenodius]

I was pleasantly surprised to find that after upgrading from RC7b, in which my boost profile had max-speed set to 65mph, that OVS actually lets me reach 65mph with the latest RC9 firmware. It's great for improving acceleration in that 30-45mph range, but I very rarely use it above that. Just too much power. And I can't really use it now since it's behaving so oddly.

That's really fast overheating. Obviously you've done autotune... what's your Wire R PHC and Wire R set to? Way back when, outrageous values for those prevented autotune from functioning properly...

 

[Scott]

That's really fast overheating. Obviously you've done autotune... what's your Wire R PHC and Wire R set to? Way back when, outrageous values for those prevented autotune from functioning properly...

Yes I did autotune but got a crazy number of -11 Angle Corr. So I changed that to 2.4

Wire R is "118"
Wire R PHC "no"
Hall off set is to "300°" which is weird because it doesn't seem right but the motor runs really rough when set to anything else.

 

[xenodius]

My Wire R is 78, my Hall Angle is 120, and PHC is "no".

My fine angle is -1.5 but I think ideal values vary between people.

I'd mess around with your hall angle.

How does it run in SLESS?

 

[Scott]

How does it run in SLESS?

Ok thanks, I'll try that.

For 2 days my middle hall sensor didn't work/wiring had a short. So I used SLESS and it sounded like a v10 Lexus LFA! It sounds awesome but doesn't like more than 2/3 throttle.

 

[ridethelightning]

is there a rough guide for the cromotor and mini-e? the ebikes.ca calc doesnt list the cro. I'm putting an 84v 20ah battery (25r 18650)through the mini-e and into a cromotor v2 (just about to order the bat) . its going onto my 100lb phasor (weight once the battery is in.

trying to get a rough idea if I'm going to be happy with the speed numbers from that battery/controller combo. Can anyone out there give mph estimates with the mini-e/cromotor combo?

a beautiful machine like that needs a max-e. donate the mine-e to the gf bike :lol:
wuxing thumb throttle like this works really smoothly as varyable regen throttle with adaptto :wink:
and that way, the saint brake pads will last for ages longer..

here are cro settings...if they arn't the ones you already have.http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=53867&p=844282&hilit=cromotor+settings#p844282

 

[madin88]

the wuxing 108x thumb throttle works great for brake lever. there is also some space in it for a (reed) switch for brake light or e-brake cut off.
i like them.