Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread
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Doctorbass
100 GW
Seven said:
Yes I did it: see page: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/vi...190&p=993024&hilit=adaptto+ma+current#p993024
I have measured the standby current of the Adaptto controller at different states.
I thought you would be interested to know that :wink:
Current consumption of the Adaptto Max-E
Conditions:
-Adaptto Max-E built in end of 2014
-Last firmware: RC9b
-Battery voltage: 22s NMC 82.5V nom 92V full
-No BMS installed yet ( not received yet...)
Current draw to the battery at 88V and no motor running:
-OFF ( suspend mode active) 1.15mA
-ON (screen brightness Low) 15.4mA
-ON (screen brightness High) 18.8mA
Theorically you could leave it connected to a 30Ah 22s full battery for 3 years before it is fully depleated...
Doc
Doctorbass
100 GW
lennovich said:quick update on my controller guys...i soldered a 30kohm smd resistor on the resistor that adaptto said en it works fine!
Can set full phase amps now without motor cut...
It's a beast now
Thanks for your report!
In fact, what is causing the need for a 30k resistor?.. is it due to an eror in the original controller design?
Doc
Seven
10 W
Thanks Doc, I'll hold off changing my screen switch to the controller switch until I need to leave the bike unattended for a few years
I soldered the 0603 resistor today; I forgot what I'd been missing. It's still cutting out if I try to pull max (350) phase amps from a stop, but now I can do ~280 reliably instead of ~180 usually, and that with Acc completely disabled. I celebrated with donuts. The smokey kind, not the deep-fried kind I could be imagining it, but I think I have much better regen now too. Enough to skid.
It wasn't such a bad job with a dissecting scope and surgical tools but it did end up slightly crooked. Good practice for the MMCX connectors I'll be using to make my custom IEM's... :lol: By the time I figure out Agisoft and model my ear molds I should have the Ultimaker 2 configured be able to print a soldering-iron mount for our micropositioner. Would have made this a cakewalk!
It's a lot of power, but still not to spec. I'm wondering if I should solder another one on there... or maybe try to test a few (how, I can hardly imagine; I'd probably need to use needles for probes) since i have 4,999 left and pick a lower resistance, though I think these were .5% tolerance. I'll check the resistance and get in touch with them...
I could be imagining it, but I think I have much better regen now too. Enough to skid.It wasn't such a bad job with a dissecting scope and surgical tools but it did end up slightly crooked. Good practice for the MMCX connectors I'll be using to make my custom IEM's... :lol: By the time I figure out Agisoft and model my ear molds I should have the Ultimaker 2 configured be able to print a soldering-iron mount for our micropositioner. Would have made this a cakewalk!
It's a lot of power, but still not to spec. I'm wondering if I should solder another one on there... or maybe try to test a few (how, I can hardly imagine; I'd probably need to use needles for probes) since i have 4,999 left and pick a lower resistance, though I think these were .5% tolerance. I'll check the resistance and get in touch with them...
Bluefang
10 kW
Anyone had a failure in their controller where they can then shake it and it rattles .
Running a Qulbix frame with a cromotor in a 19" motorbike wheel, 3kwh of lipo. Max-e was flashed to the latest firmware and had run for a couple of test rides, then took it for a ride to work and on the way home it lost power and started to feel very heavy cogging from the cromotor, this is after earlier it got stuck on full throttle needing a reset to clear. I am using a motorbike pull throttle and a Gwhy hall adapter box but i dont really think the cable was jammed or anything as it was fine straight after i reset it.
This was all at midnight so i shut it down and came back to it in the morning. Turned the screen to active, tried the throttle with the bike on a stand and i had magic smoke. Quickly disconnected the battery, pulled the controller from the bike and it now rattles when i shake it. I have a spare controller i can use now but more scared of the cause, the Cromotor seems to spin normally disconnected from the controller.
I have emailed adaptto and will send the controller back to them for dissection. Been great setting it up and having it all with a BMS, charger and screen all in one.
.Running a Qulbix frame with a cromotor in a 19" motorbike wheel, 3kwh of lipo. Max-e was flashed to the latest firmware and had run for a couple of test rides, then took it for a ride to work and on the way home it lost power and started to feel very heavy cogging from the cromotor, this is after earlier it got stuck on full throttle needing a reset to clear. I am using a motorbike pull throttle and a Gwhy hall adapter box but i dont really think the cable was jammed or anything as it was fine straight after i reset it.
This was all at midnight so i shut it down and came back to it in the morning. Turned the screen to active, tried the throttle with the bike on a stand and i had magic smoke. Quickly disconnected the battery, pulled the controller from the bike and it now rattles when i shake it. I have a spare controller i can use now but more scared of the cause, the Cromotor seems to spin normally disconnected from the controller.
I have emailed adaptto and will send the controller back to them for dissection. Been great setting it up and having it all with a BMS, charger and screen all in one.
Doctorbass
100 GW
Bluefang said:Anyone had a failure in their controller where they can then shake it and it rattles
Running a Qulbix frame with a cromotor in a 19" motorbike wheel, 3kwh of lipo. Max-e was flashed to the latest firmware and had run for a couple of test rides, then took it for a ride to work and on the way home it lost power and started to feel very heavy cogging from the cromotor, this is after earlier it got stuck on full throttle needing a reset to clear. I am using a motorbike pull throttle and a Gwhy hall adapter box but i dont really think the cable was jammed or anything as it was fine straight after i reset it.
This was all at midnight so i shut it down and came back to it in the morning. Turned the screen to active, tried the throttle with the bike on a stand and i had magic smoke. Quickly disconnected the battery, pulled the controller from the bike and it now rattles when i shake it. I have a spare controller i can use now but more scared of the cause, the Cromotor seems to spin normally disconnected from the controller.
I have emailed adaptto and will send the controller back to them for dissection. Been great setting it up and having it all with a BMS, charger and screen all in one.
Unlocked firmware or not?
This seem to be mosfet blown inside.. the symptome really "sound" like that :lol:
Doc
Bluefang
10 kW
Still locked and most of the running wss in normal mode at -4kw with the rest in eco. Abit odd as i would have thought they have a ton of protection. Hoefully i just got unlucky and some one forgot to do up a screw lol. I have tested the continuity between the motor phases and the hub axle and i get nothing and used a hallreader on the halls and they are all good. Anyother suggestions before i hook up the next controller.
GreenRoad
100 W
i would check the wire resitance of the motor.Bluefang said:
Perhaps you have an shortcut or an bad isulation.
You could measure this out with an high voltagage measure meter.
This would be an good thing if you know - if the motor is okay.
sometimes also Mosfets gets damage wihout any reason - production failure / overheat ......
If adaptto repairs the controller - the will tell you what was damaged - and perhaps why...
GreenRoad
100 W
hello
did anyone tryed out an external speed Sensor with the adaptto?
I place it to +5V / Break in - and switch on the Sensor at the "reku menue"
I get back a speed signal if i spin the front wheel - where the sensor is placed - okay
But i still geting the speed signal from hall sensor of the Motor - if i pull up the rear wheel and push the throttle....
Is it normal that i have two mesurements for the speed signal?
i thought if i activate the external speed sensor, this is the only measurment input for speed.
Do i have to set something other in the setup....
did anyone tryed out an external speed Sensor with the adaptto?
I place it to +5V / Break in - and switch on the Sensor at the "reku menue"
I get back a speed signal if i spin the front wheel - where the sensor is placed - okay
But i still geting the speed signal from hall sensor of the Motor - if i pull up the rear wheel and push the throttle....
Is it normal that i have two mesurements for the speed signal?
i thought if i activate the external speed sensor, this is the only measurment input for speed.
Do i have to set something other in the setup....
Charge voltage question here:
I keep seeing mention of making sure you're charge voltage is high, as the closer to the pack voltage the better.
I understand the reason for wanting it high, but I've never seen a good layout for how low I can go in what range of charge rate. I would be awesome too see a rough guide of recommended charge rates at different voltages.
I have a mini-e and a 70amp coil (should have just bought a 30 as I cant charge that high anyway)
my battery is a 72v 22ah pack (1500 wh)
I dont need the mega 3000+w charge rates that you nutters are getting. I've been looking at a 750-1000w charge setep and am limited to 110ac input.
what charge rates should I aim for at the different voltages if I cant find a 48v psu I like and wanted to go with a cheaper 12v or 24v charger?.
would be cool to see something like
12v psu --up to xxx watt charge rates
24v psu --up to xxx watt charge rates
48v+ psu for above xxx watt charge rates.
anyone have rough numbers for this? or is it as simple as saying a mini-e shouldn't go above the 30a coil and max-e a 70a coil making for
mini-e
12v psu --up to 360w charge rates
24v psu --up to 720w charge rates
48v psu --up to 1440w charge rates
max-e
12v psu --up to 840w charge rates
24v psu --up to 1680w charge rates
48v psu --up to 33600w charge rates
sound correct?
its my understanding that its the controller that will heat too much (ie I shouldn't be using over 30a for the mini anyway so its not like I can put a 12v charge at 60a as it will overheat)
I keep seeing mention of making sure you're charge voltage is high, as the closer to the pack voltage the better.
I understand the reason for wanting it high, but I've never seen a good layout for how low I can go in what range of charge rate. I would be awesome too see a rough guide of recommended charge rates at different voltages.
I have a mini-e and a 70amp coil (should have just bought a 30 as I cant charge that high anyway)
my battery is a 72v 22ah pack (1500 wh)
I dont need the mega 3000+w charge rates that you nutters are getting. I've been looking at a 750-1000w charge setep and am limited to 110ac input.
what charge rates should I aim for at the different voltages if I cant find a 48v psu I like and wanted to go with a cheaper 12v or 24v charger?.
would be cool to see something like
12v psu --up to xxx watt charge rates
24v psu --up to xxx watt charge rates
48v+ psu for above xxx watt charge rates.
anyone have rough numbers for this? or is it as simple as saying a mini-e shouldn't go above the 30a coil and max-e a 70a coil making for
mini-e
12v psu --up to 360w charge rates
24v psu --up to 720w charge rates
48v psu --up to 1440w charge rates
max-e
12v psu --up to 840w charge rates
24v psu --up to 1680w charge rates
48v psu --up to 33600w charge rates
sound correct?
its my understanding that its the controller that will heat too much (ie I shouldn't be using over 30a for the mini anyway so its not like I can put a 12v charge at 60a as it will overheat)
Ohbse
10 kW
I regularly charge mini-e using 30a coil pushing 1800w from 54v PSU which technically is pushing its limits. In practice the coil remains pretty cool and the controller gets warm. I had to quickly charge my new pack when I completed it the other day (already late for work by that stage) and I dumped in 1kWh at 1850watt without issue. I had a fan pointed at the controller but it probably wasn't strictly required. So a helpful guideline is perhaps 2kW on 50v+ source, 1kw on 24v. I would recommend against 12v charging source.
At work I have another 70a coil and it runs correspondingly cooler than the 30a I have at home. Once I get my Max-e back from repair I will push the boundaries and run my other 48v 200amp PSU to see what it can really do with the 70a coil
Max-e limits are probably high enough you would struggle to have enough battery to take the power input. My 18650's are rated at 4a per cell fast charge, 10p 20s gives me a maximum input of 2.9kW so that's where I will stop with the charging experiment. You will also struggle to get enough power out of a breaker in your average house.
At work I have another 70a coil and it runs correspondingly cooler than the 30a I have at home. Once I get my Max-e back from repair I will push the boundaries and run my other 48v 200amp PSU to see what it can really do with the 70a coil
Max-e limits are probably high enough you would struggle to have enough battery to take the power input. My 18650's are rated at 4a per cell fast charge, 10p 20s gives me a maximum input of 2.9kW so that's where I will stop with the charging experiment. You will also struggle to get enough power out of a breaker in your average house.
I charge around 2.8KW maxing out my HP ESP 120 at 50 to 55 amps.
I haven't used my bike in some months but what I found is that pushing above like 50 amps really heated up the controller. I found that by backing off a few amps kept it from getting hot. But again, this was many months ago and I would have to test again. I even remember my controller getting really hot one time and charging it again at the same setting didn't get it hot.
What I'm thinking about doing is putting another power supply or two more in series to give me a higher voltage. I'm trying to shoot for like 80 volts. Why limit it to only 50 volts?
I haven't used my bike in some months but what I found is that pushing above like 50 amps really heated up the controller. I found that by backing off a few amps kept it from getting hot. But again, this was many months ago and I would have to test again. I even remember my controller getting really hot one time and charging it again at the same setting didn't get it hot.
What I'm thinking about doing is putting another power supply or two more in series to give me a higher voltage. I'm trying to shoot for like 80 volts. Why limit it to only 50 volts?
GreenRoad
100 W
Hello
Question
How could i limit the max Speed / rpm of the motor?
I want to limit the motor direct with the settings - not with the speed?
I will it do like at the kelly - there you could limit the max Speed / rpm of the motor.
Is this possible with any PWM settings? Or how could i make this
Question
How could i limit the max Speed / rpm of the motor?
I want to limit the motor direct with the settings - not with the speed?
I will it do like at the kelly - there you could limit the max Speed / rpm of the motor.
Is this possible with any PWM settings? Or how could i make this
Just got confirmation my payment was received and my Mini-E with button mod should be on it's way before the end of the week.
I won't crack open the controller for cooling as others have suggested it's just not worth it, but I will attach some heat-sinks and put small fans onto them. I will also place thermal padding between controller and frame before attaching.
Cheers
I won't crack open the controller for cooling as others have suggested it's just not worth it, but I will attach some heat-sinks and put small fans onto them. I will also place thermal padding between controller and frame before attaching.
Cheers
Hi guys. Just wondering how long adaptto take to complete an order & ship? I was going to purchase through Allex via pypal then got to work a day or two later & my raptor had smoked the controller so I was super keen for no downtime & no time to order my self and got accounts to do a direct transfere for me.. through the firm.. thats a week tomorrow & not heard frm them... I have asked politely for an update.. tracking etc... Hmm
Jono
Quick edit I've had confirmation of payment and delivery.. Can't wait !!
Jono
Quick edit I've had confirmation of payment and delivery.. Can't wait !!
Doctorbass
100 GW
lol.. I just comeback from a ride with my MAX-E and 5302.. i needed to walk the last 1km... motor vibrate alot.. but the hall are ok according to the controller.. i waws abel to run at about 20kmh max at 2000W with very high vibrations from the motor..
I am not sure if it's trhe motor phase that have melted or the controller that could have a blown fet... but it still work.. but with very high vibration and heat very fast!....
I'll check what hapenned in teh next hour.. but from now i need to keep the motor outdoot with the bug 24" fan to cool it down .. otherwise my garage will smell hot motor winding for hours!
Doc
I am not sure if it's trhe motor phase that have melted or the controller that could have a blown fet... but it still work.. but with very high vibration and heat very fast!....
I'll check what hapenned in teh next hour.. but from now i need to keep the motor outdoot with the bug 24" fan to cool it down .. otherwise my garage will smell hot motor winding for hours!
Doc
Seven
10 W
If anyone in Perth or Aus is needing the 4 pin (screen/bms) or 7 pin (halls) connectors I have them available for $10 inc postage
cwah
100 MW
Doctorbass said:
You were talking about peace in mind and no need to repair with more expensive controller... but at the end of the day you still need to fix issues!
Doctorbass
100 GW
cwah said:
yes totally!.. it seem that this controller.. just like every other controller HATE the 5302!!! the Adaptto dont make exception for that i see..
.. but as well a kv of 18 is really tough to drive.Even at 98kmh today and 10.8kW i felt that i was at only about half the powerband !!... at 338A it was still missing torque but if i would have tried to unlocked the firmware and set the batt current to let say 160A like Allex did.. i would have reached about 115kmh with teh old 5300 serie motor...
Doc
Doctorbass
100 GW
I confirm that i have a blown phase on my max-E... even with locked firmware it is possible.
I have a dead short between that phase and the negative or positive.
but i did not heard any popcorn.. when i have slow down after abot 5 minutes of high speed try, and wanted to re-accelerate again.. the motor just vrbrated aot ( BRRRRRRrrrrr)
But the controller was still working! but with hard restriction as well on the motor but it was still working at least... i returned to home at abot 15-20kmh consuming 2kW with my motor temp rising to 160 celsius....
I was not sure if it was a melted phase connector or wire or hall sensor.. so i was able to check with the display still working and i saw these 3x 0 and 1 digit working perfectly, confirming that the hall are ok.
i took a look to the phase wire and they was looking fine and no melt...
The controller fet was at 45 celsius...
This make me think that i will probably ask for a lower kv cromotor!.. well at least under 10.
All motor that i had that had kv above 10 all blew one of my controller... but all motor with kv under 10 never blew any controller..
Fortunatly on my MAX-E the firmware is still locked so it is still under warranty.
I have a dead short between that phase and the negative or positive.
but i did not heard any popcorn.. when i have slow down after abot 5 minutes of high speed try, and wanted to re-accelerate again.. the motor just vrbrated aot ( BRRRRRRrrrrr)
But the controller was still working! but with hard restriction as well on the motor but it was still working at least... i returned to home at abot 15-20kmh consuming 2kW with my motor temp rising to 160 celsius....
I was not sure if it was a melted phase connector or wire or hall sensor.. so i was able to check with the display still working and i saw these 3x 0 and 1 digit working perfectly, confirming that the hall are ok.
i took a look to the phase wire and they was looking fine and no melt...
The controller fet was at 45 celsius...
This make me think that i will probably ask for a lower kv cromotor!.. well at least under 10.
All motor that i had that had kv above 10 all blew one of my controller... but all motor with kv under 10 never blew any controller..
Fortunatly on my MAX-E the firmware is still locked so it is still under warranty.
Doctorbass said:I confirm that i have a blown phase on my max-E... even with locked firmware it is possible.
I have a dead short between that phase and the negative or positive.
but i did not heard any popcorn.. when i have slow down after abot 5 minutes of high speed try, and wanted to re-accelerate again.. the motor just vrbrated aot ( BRRRRRRrrrrr)
But the controller was still working! but with hard restriction as well on the motor but it was still working at least... i returned to home at abot 15-20kmh consuming 2kW with my motor temp rising to 160 celsius....
I was not sure if it was a melted phase connector or wire or hall sensor.. so i was able to check with the display still working and i saw these 3x 0 and 1 digit working perfectly, confirming that the hall are ok.
i took a look to the phase wire and they was looking fine and no melt...
The controller fet was at 45 celsius...
This make me think that i will probably ask for a lower kv cromotor!.. well at least under 10.
All motor that i had that had kv above 10 all blew one of my controller... but all motor with kv under 10 never blew any controller..
Fortunatly on my MAX-E the firmware is still locked so it is still under warranty.
I wonder, the Hubmonster has a kV of 18, but it's inductance makes it easier to drive, yeah? I'm planning on running one with dual Max-E's eventually... Surprised it blew a fet! Flukes happen I guess.
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