Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

Doctorbass said:
I confirm that i have a blown phase on my max-E... even with locked firmware it is possible.

I have a dead short between that phase and the negative or positive.

but i did not heard any popcorn.. when i have slow down after abot 5 minutes of high speed try, and wanted to re-accelerate again.. the motor just vrbrated aot ( BRRRRRRrrrrr)

But the controller was still working! but with hard restriction as well on the motor but it was still working at least... i returned to home at abot 15-20kmh consuming 2kW with my motor temp rising to 160 celsius....

I was not sure if it was a melted phase connector or wire or hall sensor.. so i was able to check with the display still working and i saw these 3x 0 and 1 digit working perfectly, confirming that the hall are ok.

i took a look to the phase wire and they was looking fine and no melt...

The controller fet was at 45 celsius...

This make me think that i will probably ask for a lower kv cromotor!.. well at least under 10.

All motor that i had that had kv above 10 all blew one of my controller... but all motor with kv under 10 never blew any controller..

Fortunatly on my MAX-E the firmware is still locked so it is still under warranty. :)

I wonder, the Hubmonster has a kV of 18, but it's inductance makes it easier to drive, yeah? I'm planning on running one with dual Max-E's eventually... Surprised it blew a fet! Flukes happen I guess.

Glad you made it home!
 
Dear Friends,

I am glad to announce that we've finished PAS integration for our controllers.
From now we offer PAS integration as an optional feature for our controllers ( 20 USD extra for installing the PAS cable )

In order to add the PAS feature please just let us know before ordering the new controller!

For our existing clients who would also like to have this option we could suggest sending us the controller back - we will install the cable and upgrade the firmware for PAS support. The price will also be 20 USD. Return shipping is on us!

Please contact us via e-mail for additional enquiries,
All the best!
 
crea2k said:
Remove the screws from the side of the case, these hold the internal heatsink / fets to the inside of the controller case, then drill holes in your heatsink, put heatsink paste or pads between the controller case and the heatsink. Go to a shop that sells screws / fastners and buy some slightly longer screws, that will go through the external heatsink and into the internal one, you can then screw the heatsink to the case using the existing screws. This is basically what I am doing with mine to keep it cool, I also have it clamped to the inside of my aluminium battery box with a heat transfer pad in between the controller and the box, to use the battery box as a heatsink. The external heatsink im adding is just to add even more cooling, as im going to add a fan to suck air into the battery box and over the heatsink, then out a vent in the top.


Have you considered to make an air inlet hose? Zero are using them to add extra cooling for motors. Should work well for controllers also. A larger intake in front, like a duct or more like a funnel and hose blowing cool air over the controller. I think this would work out great for all that have controllers mounted inside battery box. For the Adaptto it would be best to also use an external heat sink to the controller and direct to hose outlet directly to the external heat sink.
 
Adaptto E-Drives Lab said:
Dear Friends,

I am glad to announce that we've finished PAS integration for our controllers.
From now we offer PAS integration as an optional feature for our controllers ( 20 USD extra for installing the PAS cable )

In order to add the PAS feature please just let us know before ordering the new controller!

For our existing clients who would also like to have this option we could suggest sending us the controller back - we will install the cable and upgrade the firmware for PAS support. The price will also be 20 USD. Return shipping is on us!

Please contact us via e-mail for additional enquiries,
All the best!

Hello,

Is it possible to use the pas sensor only in eco modus and in boost mode no pas just throttle??
 
lennovich said:
Hello,

Is it possible to use the pas sensor only in eco modus and in boost mode no pas just throttle??

It works exactly like this - only in ECO mode.

Seven said:
Is there a new firmware to go along with the PAS? Could you give us a tutorial ( like the power switch one) for retrofitting the pas for existing owners?

The installing of PAS cable into the controller is a bit more complicated than we anticipated so there will be no tutorials like in Switch case. That is why I've mentioned only sending to us option.
Of cource, we upgrade the firmware together with PAS cable integration however it will not be available for download because of above mentioned reason.
 
Can you guys please post (or point me to location) some added info on adding hall+magnet to break lever to make use of variable regen with adapto controller.
What kind of hall is used?
Any pictures would be helpfull.

I'm thinking of using this option, or wuxing thumb throttle for left side.
Any particular preferences or other options ?
 
in gcindc's dh comp thread there is some info on the magnets i think

i myself have tried a couple of throttles, but the wuxing thumb throttle works the best so far. id just stick with that.
 
Hi all,

I bought an E-mini for my middrive
During the autodetect process , the motor runs at maximum speed , and successful, but in normal use but turned it half speed and 30% of the power .
I've also tried with a hub motor (Magic Pie) and then he will run in maximum speed and power .
Perhaps one of you knows what 's going on here ?

Sincerely marcel .
 
marcelkuis said:
Hi all,

I bought an E-mini for my middrive
During the autodetect process , the motor runs at maximum speed , and successful, but in normal use but turned it half speed and 30% of the power .
I've also tried with a hub motor (Magic Pie) and then he will run in maximum speed and power .
Perhaps one of you knows what 's going on here ?

Sincerely marcel .
may i help you :wink:
What kind of motor do you use - have you any details for me
Could you post an screenshot of the Autosettings details - you could find this info at the display.

I know that low resistance make some troubles with the adaptto autosettings.
I do not realy like the autosettings of adaptto - you need some feeling for that.
I normaly make autosettings and then i do a manual reseting.
If the settings not realy okay - i found out that the controller getting fast hot.

You also could try to do autosettings a second or third time - i also get different settings -sometimes.
You could also try to switch the phase and Halls in another direction - this makes also some different.
 
Hello, Greenroad.
Thanks for your comment

It is a Bafang bbs 750watt Drive
This works well with a Lyen and Kelly controller.
And the rotationspeed of this motor is not extremely high.
I currently have a hub motor built on the bike, but I 'm going to make screenshots of the controller display as soon as I have time.

best regard,
Marcel .
 
the interesting thing is the winding resistance
I tried out the adaptto at about 4 different middle motors (Cpd Motors with differnt coils) -
We build up bikes with hubmotors ( C-Lyte different motors HS) - without any problems.
To setup a hubmotor seems to be work fine - but there exists also people who have problems with the autoset.

i personaly do not like the autosetting - its good - buts its not perfect

Try out to change the combination of the phase / halls - i always get different setting at autoset.
If you could see that the motorspeed at autoset is not realy high - and the pwm mark goes not up - you could give up the autoset.

after a "good" autosettings i try to change some settings at the adaptto like "ADZ" PWM max and so - than autosetting again.
After that i manual adjust the output settings from the autosetting.
But for me it also was an hard work to get out good settings with the adaptto and an middle motor / outrunner.

With the kelly it also was no problem to get an outrunner to work - only the phase / hall combination is important.
 
dimpirate said:
Can you guys please post (or point me to location) some added info on adding hall+magnet to break lever to make use of variable regen with adapto controller.
What kind of hall is used?
Any pictures would be helpfull.

I'm thinking of using this option, or wuxing thumb throttle for left side.
Any particular preferences or other options ?
Honeywell SS49 linear hall sensor mounted like this video:
[youtube]watch?v=Ym0afjek2LM[/youtube]
But I'm finding it hard to set up if you want regen before hydraulic disc brakes engage!?!? Not enough lever throw....

I don't know how to embed YT on this forum, here's the link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ym0afjek2LM
 
skWarDog said:
dimpirate said:
Can you guys please post (or point me to location) some added info on adding hall+magnet to break lever to make use of variable regen with adapto controller.
What kind of hall is used?
Any pictures would be helpfull.

I'm thinking of using this option, or wuxing thumb throttle for left side.
Any particular preferences or other options ?
Honeywell SS49 linear hall sensor mounted like this video:
[youtube]watch?v=Ym0afjek2LM[/youtube]
But I'm finding it hard to set up if you want regen before hydraulic disc brakes engage!?!? Not enough lever throw....

I don't know how to embed YT on this forum, here's the link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ym0afjek2LM


Thanks for hall info!!
I have hydraulic brakes as well and will probobally run into same problem your having.
So either I don't use back brake which I am not at the moment anyways and put a lever in just for regen.

Or if this is ok use wuxing thumb throttle for variable regen, and also use regen button on half twist Throttle for hard stop.
should work right?
 
ebikesettings.JPG
GreenRoad said:
the interesting thing is the winding resistance
I tried out the adaptto at about 4 different middle motors (Cpd Motors with differnt coils) -
We build up bikes with hubmotors ( C-Lyte different motors HS) - without any problems.
To setup a hubmotor seems to be work fine - but there exists also people who have problems with the autoset.

i personaly do not like the autosetting - its good - buts its not perfect

Try out to change the combination of the phase / halls - i always get different setting at autoset.
If you could see that the motorspeed at autoset is not realy high - and the pwm mark goes not up - you could give up the autoset.

after a "good" autosettings i try to change some settings at the adaptto like "ADZ" PWM max and so - than autosetting again.
After that i manual adjust the output settings from the autosetting.
But for me it also was an hard work to get out good settings with the adaptto and an middle motor / outrunner.

With the kelly it also was no problem to get an outrunner to work - only the phase / hall combination is important.

It works! Thanks Green Road :D

Did some playing with the settings angle corr , and ind timing.
The engine runs at maximum speed and incredible torque
The efficiency is much better the temparature does not exceed 80c at 1000 watts continuous , and the engine is very quiet.
It is very much better than with the original controller, or Kelly controller
The bike runs 50kmh without overheating in the largest gearing , and in the 1st gearing it runs at 8 kmh with incredible torque ( Rohloff wheel )
Here are some pictures of the settings of the controller for the Bafang middrive
 
Hello marcelkuis
I did nothing...
your Wire mOhm is quiet high.... i have there an value with about 20 with the cpd :D

I would try following thing
go down with the PWR timing
ADDNZ - try 3

(i am verry interesting what happen)

I did not measure the Bafang middrive - would be interesting how much power they (realy) use.

But yes - the adaptto is better than the Kelly.
I also like that the current i set at adaptto is realy the current the controller take out of the battery.
With kelly you always have to measure this extern to be sure...
 
Hi Guys I got my Max E in the post today.. :) I've had a quick look at it and quickly read through the instructions.. at the bottom of page 44 it says:

"Detailed instructions for the settings can be found in the Adaptto BMS module documentation"

I didn't get any hard copy manuals / docs I'm assuming full bms setup is online somewhere? i'm not talking about whats on page one of this thread, an official adaptto setup?

Oh and firmware.. looks like the latest has been focused on 2wd. I've read this thread bottom to top and guys like different versions.. I just need to run my cromotor in a locked version with bms..?
 
Manual is here:
http://adaptto.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/User-Manual-ENG.pdf
 
My Mini-E is on it's way :D , and currently in "Export of international mail" in Moscow. I wonder how long it normally sits there for as it's been there a few day's already?

Just reading through the manual I noticed the controller is not rated very highly for water proofing.

What have others done for water proofing their controllers if mounted externally?

I was thinking a good bead of silicone sealant around the inside of the end covers as well as a coating of something like Never Wet on the outside should be a good move.

Any other idea's?

Cheers
 
hello gents,
Ive got my Max-e out and im trying to decide if I should go for 22s or not. I have the BMS and Im using it all to run a cromotor v2 with heat sensor intalled. im thinking of getting 11 of these 2s1p 30C zippys to start with. With 11 of these for 22s1p and 30C -50C peak, I should be able to max out the controller easily at 350 phase amps, right? If i need more AH, ill get another 11 zippys and do 22s2p or 3p.

Cheers!

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__58960__ZIPPY_Flightmax_8000mAh_2S1P_30C_AR_Warehouse_.html
 
Longshot said:
hello gents,
Ive got my Max-e out and im trying to decide if I should go for 22s or not. I have the BMS and Im using it all to run a cromotor v2 with heat sensor intalled. im thinking of getting 11 of these 2s1p 30C zippys to start with. With 11 of these for 22s1p and 30C -50C peak, I should be able to max out the controller easily at 350 phase amps, right? If i need more AH, ill get another 11 zippys and do 22s2p or 3p.

Cheers!

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__58960__ZIPPY_Flightmax_8000mAh_2S1P_30C_AR_Warehouse_.html


Go for 20s .. NOT 22s if you want max torque.

With 22s your mosfet dont have enough safe voltage margin fron their 100V rating. 22s is about 90V and this is onlt 10V margin.. at hhigh phase amp you need more margin than 10 otherwise you might blow it.. this is what happened to me with my fast wound motor.

Doc
 
Longshot said:
hello gents,
Ive got my Max-e out and im trying to decide if I should go for 22s or not. I have the BMS and Im using it all to run a cromotor v2 with heat sensor intalled. im thinking of getting 11 of these 2s1p 30C zippys to start with. With 11 of these for 22s1p and 30C -50C peak, I should be able to max out the controller easily at 350 phase amps, right? If i need more AH, ill get another 11 zippys and do 22s2p or 3p.

You're going to be much better off buying better batteries @ 20s than you are with Zippy's at 22s. You definitely don't want to be buying 2s packs as it will make wiring much more complex than required... Stick to 4s packs, 20s total. This will plug straight into the BMS (you did buy the BMS didn't you?) and will simplify your wiring tremendously.
 
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