Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[xenodius]

Is it possible to use a regular twist throttle to use for variable regen with the max-e?

If it is how do I connect it exactly?

Thanks

You can hook up a switch OR a hall to the ebrake line on the throttle connector going into the display. Pinout is in the manual. Just share the ground and +5v signal with the throttle. Works like a dream.

 

[bowlofsalad]

Is it possible to use a regular twist throttle to use for variable regen with the max-e?

If it is how do I connect it exactly?

Thanks

You can hook up a switch OR a hall to the ebrake line on the throttle connector going into the display. Pinout is in the manual. Just share the ground and +5v signal with the throttle. Works like a dream.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ym0afjek2LM This is an illustration from adaptto.com of the halls idea. I'd love to see and understand more on how to set this up. I'd love to see some pictures and illustrations on how the wiring is setup, how the halls sensor is weatherproofed, where and how the halls sensor is fixed to the lever, and if typical ebrake lever(s) can still be used in conjunction with this idea. Thanks.

 

[xenodius]

Is it possible to use a regular twist throttle to use for variable regen with the max-e?

If it is how do I connect it exactly?

Thanks

You can hook up a switch OR a hall to the ebrake line on the throttle connector going into the display. Pinout is in the manual. Just share the ground and +5v signal with the throttle. Works like a dream.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ym0afjek2LM This is an illustration from adaptto.com of the halls idea. I'd love to see and understand more on how to set this up. I'd love to see some pictures and illustrations on how the wiring is setup, how the halls sensor is weatherproofed, where and how the halls sensor is fixed to the lever, and if typical ebrake lever(s) can still be used in conjunction with this idea. Thanks.

I used a cheap twist throttle, and silicone conformal coating under LOADS of dielectric grease. It's been through years of rain and snow, never missed a beat. Still want to fabricate something nicer though.

I've seen people add a magnet and a hall to any old lever without issue-- I'd just embed it in epoxy and paint over it for UV protection. Thanks to the display on the Adaptto, you can easily adjust it to work well as long as you have decent swing through the voltage range.

 

[ridethelightning]

yeah it works, but ergonomically it sucks with the disc brake leaver,cause you have to twist it(usually forwards if on the left hand)and it makes it hard to controll the rear brake at the same time.

to wire it, just connect the wiper to the white adaptto brake wire and the +5v and 0v to the same wires used for the throttle...i think adaptto brown and black.

 

[arcticfly]

Bad start of the bike season! Just took my Stealth Bomber out after winter, and hooked up the battery the adaptto screen came to life, I tried to enter the password on the screen, and the down button did not work :-( This was a bummer, and especially since the bike has been indoors all winter. I tried to email service Adaptto, but no good news there so far... Anyone have an extra screen I could buy?

Cheers
Alex

 

[Offroader]

Bad start of the bike season! Just took my Stealth Bomber out after winter, and hooked up the battery the adaptto screen came to life, I tried to enter the password on the screen, and the down button did not work :-( This was a bummer, and especially since the bike has been indoors all winter. I tried to email service Adaptto, but no good news there so far... Anyone have an extra screen I could buy?

Cheers
Alex

Allex from Sweden may be able to sell you a screen.

 

[arcticfly]

Talked to him. we found the problem, and it is the flat cable between the buttons to the print card...

 

[Offroader]

Talked to him. we found the problem, and it is the flat cable between the buttons to the print card...

Easy fixes are always the best. I also got my bike out today for the first time in 4 months. Now with variable regen, which is awesome with a thumb throttle on the left hand.

 

[Dirtech]

Hello, I know you should not put more than 98V through the Max-E. Does this mean that you cannot use a 24s battery and fully charged with each cell at 4.2V this is 100.8V.
Thanks

 

[xenodius]

Hello, I know you should not put more than 98V through the Max-E. Does this mean that you cannot use a 24s battery and fully charged with each cell at 4.2V this is 100.8V.
Thanks

Correct, in fact I believe 20s is likely a better choice if you want to use full voltage. I'm planning on building my pack at 22s and never charging above 4.1, or ~3.9 for normal use.

 

[Stielz]

DEAR FRIENDS!

TIME TO START A NEW BUILD!

IN APRIL ONLY - WHOLESALE PRICES FOR RETAIL ORDERS!

Please find the details in our sales thread!

Good luck!

So annoying, I paid full price just before the sale :x

Thats usually the way it goes though lol.

Anyway I've got a analogue hall sensor set up for the regen brake. It gives 2.5V output with no brake applied and 4V when the hydraulic brake engages. Should be good enough resolution and nice and easy ro set up thanks to the mapping function of the Adaptto

 

[Dirtech]

Hello, I know you should not put more than 98V through the Max-E. Does this mean that you cannot use a 24s battery and fully charged with each cell at 4.2V this is 100.8V.
Thanks

Correct, in fact I believe 20s is likely a better choice if you want to use full voltage. I'm planning on building my pack at 22s and never charging above 4.1, or ~3.9 for normal use.

Yes I thought that might be the case, just a pain to use 22s with the adaptto bms.

 

[Offroader]

I just started to use regen for the first time. It is really a fun feature to use.

I have my variable regen as a thumb throttle on the left. I'm not sure if this is the best decision yet for safety reasons because I find myself not covering the brakes anymore and just using the thumb throttle. In an emergency stop there will be a delay with reaching for the main brakes. However, I somehow like the regen as a thumb throttle there because it may give me overall better control once I get used to it, because I can operate my regen and mechanical brakes all independently and use them at the same time.



I was wondering how strong regen braking do you guys use and if you use any of those regen options like forced braking? I find that regen only slows you up to about 5MPH and then stops.

I assume the only way to increase the regen braking stopping power is to increase the regen phase amps in the profile?

 

[ridethelightning]

the regen is really nice isnt it?

regen with a cro is pretty substancial i find, once its adjusted right.

i find i use the regen throttle all the time, hardly ever use the discs except when coming to full stops.

i have the stem of the thumb throttle just nesting against the base of my thumb, thatway i can still be ready to brake with the rear disc if i need.

like a lot of things, i think it just takes getting used to..

 

[Offroader]

why don't you use the regen to come to full stops? Or setup reverse braking option?

 

[striker54]

why don't you use the regen to come to full stops? Or setup reverse braking option?

With that option active you will consume Amps from the battery

 

[ridethelightning]

im having a little trouble with the latest bms im installing.

all wired correctly(this is the third one i have done now) and was working ok. i unplugged it to re-arrange the pack housing.
when i plugged it in again, i got BMS warning and one of the boards,#3 is showing "fail fail fail fail" in the batt monitor, and there is a little red light thats lit up on it.

checked the plug, its all fine.all reads ok on the meter.

then i reconfigured the boards so that i skip board #3 and it all works fine, no warning and voltages all show up in the monitor.
so at least the bms will work ok, but im a little miffed that this brand new bms board does this. :|

so looks like board #3 is either faulty from manufacture or has been dammaged somehow.

anyone know what could have caused this and if the bms have warranty on them?

thanks.

 

[Offroader]

What kind of packs did you wire into the bms, 6s,4s? Did you splice any wires to make it fit into the bms?

I'm just curious if it was somehow related to the way you had your battery wired in a series or had it wired. I've yet to hook up my bms, but with 6s packs I heard you can damage the BMS in certain instances.

 

[Artur]

im having a little trouble with the latest bms im installing.

all wired correctly(this is the third one i have done now) and was working ok. i unplugged it to re-arrange the pack housing.
when i plugged it in again, i got BMS warning and one of the boards,#3 is showing "fail fail fail fail" in the batt monitor, and there is a little red light thats lit up on it.

checked the plug, its all fine.all reads ok on the meter.

then i reconfigured the boards so that i skip board #3 and it all works fine, no warning and voltages all show up in the monitor.
so at least the bms will work ok, but im a little miffed that this brand new bms board does this. :|

so looks like board #3 is either faulty from manufacture or has been dammaged somehow.

anyone know what could have caused this and if the bms have warranty on them?

thanks.

I had similar problem when I re-connect my pack and made mistake on soldering... Red light.. Hot board... I did what you did, resolder it and use another free board connector. No problem so far.

 

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All the best!

 

[gogo]

I just started to use regen for the first time. It is really a fun feature to use.

I have my variable regen as a thumb throttle on the left. I'm not sure if this is the best decision yet for safety reasons because I find myself not covering the brakes anymore and just using the thumb throttle. In an emergency stop there will be a delay with reaching for the main brakes. However, I somehow like the regen as a thumb throttle there because it may give me overall better control once I get used to it, because I can operate my regen and mechanical brakes all independently and use them at the same time. …

Maybe a left control setup similar to a motor scooter's clutch and rotary shift? It could be setup so that the brake lever would have to be squeezed slightly to unlock the rotary function of the grip/lever assembly. You'd squeeze the lever slightly and then twist for regen. This would allow you to have a partial squeeze on the lever, a fully ready position for manual braking.
I've only seen the end of this thread, so please excuse me if this has already been suggested by someone else.

 

[knighty]

finally have my max-e installed with my cromotor on my custom frame bike, 20ah 18s li-ion

anyone know what the bleed current is for the bms ?

all packs were charged to 3.8 before I installed them

did about 2 miles testing bike out, then put it on charge yesterday, it's been on charge for about 20hours now (only 75v 5amp charger I had spare next to bike for test charging).... it's still not balanced yet...

all cells are pretty damn close, 4.17min to 4.24max (charging to 4.2)


I figured the first charge/balance with the bms would take a long time - just want to make sure I haven't missed any settings?


also, I'm topping out at 43mph... I was expecting more from the 65ish volts I ran with to test... unless that's about right ?

 

[ridethelightning]

"I would like to upgrade the temp sensor in both of my motors. Does anyone know if a KTY 83 or a KTY 81 is better?

Does anyone know what comes with the Max-E?

Thanks."{offroader}

+1 im also interested to know what t sensor comes with the controllers, as im bout to try doing some mods to cromotors...

What kind of packs did you wire into the bms, 6s,4s? Did you splice any wires to make it fit into the bms?

I'm just curious if it was somehow related to the way you had your battery wired in a series or had it wired. I've yet to hook up my bms, but with 6s packs I heard you can damage the BMS in certain instances.

i know how easy it is to f**%k up soldeing the ballence plugs, but the strange thing is, i have checked all the pins on all the plugs before i plugged them in to make sure they all increase in voltage in right order, also when the board had the issue, i rechecked that plug,#3, and all was ok. finally, the plug worked just fine the way it was in another board when i reconfigured them to miss board #3

so by deduction id say its definately not the way iv soldered the ballence wires.
pack is 2 blocks of 10s10p 18650 25r, so its pretty neat and tidy, just a single series connection between the 2 blocks, and the power leads to controller.

there are 2 ballence wires that bridge the packs with a small plug so you can detatch them when the packs are separated.
its for cells#11and #12, as you have 5 boards for 4s so it wont split in half in descete units of boards....

could it be possible that having the main series plugs between the 2 x10s packs connected or disconnected independently of the 2 ballence wires that bridge them could fry something?
if so that could make sense cause it was that board that died....



another odd thing, when i first plugged in the bms all cells were ballenced to 0.008v . now, thats changed to 0.047 (stable) without any discharge of the pack that i know of, the next day!

on the bms screen, its 2 cells that are doing this on cells 7and 8 on board #2. one is slumped lower to 3.600 and one is spiked high to 3.647, the others are all pretty much flat like from the start, around 3.623-3.627
i remember when i first plugged it in yesterday i was pleased to see how flat all the bms barrs were....

im having a little trouble with the latest bms im installing.

all wired correctly(this is the third one i have done now) and was working ok. i unplugged it to re-arrange the pack housing.
when i plugged it in again, i got BMS warning and one of the boards,#3 is showing "fail fail fail fail" in the batt monitor, and there is a little red light thats lit up on it.

checked the plug, its all fine.all reads ok on the meter.

then i reconfigured the boards so that i skip board #3 and it all works fine, no warning and voltages all show up in the monitor.
so at least the bms will work ok, but im a little miffed that this brand new bms board does this. :|

so looks like board #3 is either faulty from manufacture or has been dammaged somehow.

anyone know what could have caused this and if the bms have warranty on them?

thanks.

I had similar problem when I re-connect my pack and made mistake on soldering... Red light.. Hot board... I did what you did, resolder it and use another free board connector. No problem so far.

what exactly did you solder wrong in what order to do this Artur??

would be great to get some more insight on the bms so we can all avoid making mistakes ,learn the do's and dont's.
any hints from the adaptto gods here? :lol:

 

[Offroader]

ridethelightening, it looks like we need to use a KTY83 sensor. The KTY81 sensor is too big and not the type you would put in the motor. I think the KTY 81 is what they used in the controller.

The one that came in the MAX-E package and which was intended to be installed in the motor is a KTY83, I assume from matching it with pictures.

Best place I know of where to buy them from is to order them from Ebay. I'd pick up a few of them because they are only like $1.00 each.

 

[ridethelightning]

i have a little box full of them then from all the adapttos i have bought . did your controller not come with one incuded?