Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[GmagNeato]

@Allex

i am one of those guys 8)
works fine but i use 2 of the 4 pins in the plug to short the coil connection to the phase wire, neg charge lead is permenantly connected.
whatever you do, dont autodetect with the coil circuit connected to controller!

RTL I would really like to mount my coil permanently in the frame as well. Could you describe in more detail how you create the short? It sounds like a cleaner option than what I was considering - adding a switch to the phase wire side. With that I may forget to turn on/off for charging.. :lol: I have the 4 pin neutrik connector (NL4FX) installed now.

I also considered a three position key switch where full left would be for charging, center is off, and full right is on, but I'm not sure how well that would work.

 

[ridethelightning]

will do.
someone on russian forum also suggested trying a system reset, but i suspect that if there is an issue with the firmware i have, that may not work for long, if at all.
will have to wait a couple days, as the bike is elsewhere currently.

speakon plug goes like this.
you can just see the outline of the u-turn junction in the yellow shrink that connects the + lead from coil to phase wire only when the plug is in the socket.

as to the switch..been there , done that, blew the controller eventually :lol:

multiposition switch i would only consider if the charger was mounted permenently on the bike, always connected.

 

[GmagNeato]

will do.
someone on russian forum also suggested trying a system reset, but i suspect that if there is an issue with the firmware i have, that may not work for long, if at all.
will have to wait a couple days, as the bike is elsewhere currently.

speakon plug goes like this.
you can just see the outline of the u-turn junction in the yellow shrink that connects the + lead from coil to phase wire only when the plug is in the socket.

as to the switch..been there , done that, blew the controller eventually :lol:

multiposition switch i would only consider if the charger was mounted permenently on the bike, always connected.

Definitely hope that it works out for you. Are you using the most current FW?

Thanks so much for those pics and the diagram! Yes that's exactly what I'm afraid of with the switch :? I don't really have anywhere I could mount the charger so the keyswitch idea is a no go.

Thanks again man.

 

[notger]

Just recently he even sent me a simple wiring plan to duplicate the up button for external profile switch.

Hey, I might like to do this also as I would find that mod very useful.

Could you please post the details here of how to do it?

Cheers

Sure, i dont think this is a big secret oleg sent me.

The drawing was a bit confusing to me, until i realized, the + at the bottom of the drawing symbolizes the screw, and the lines comming from there are the borders of the PCB, so forget that line, it's not a connection to +.

the solution is as simple as i thought, just connect all 4 red-marked pins and you dublicate the up signal.
the first three are anyway connected on the pcb.
i have not asked for the other signals, but they are easy to find out if needed externally

greets

Gernot

 

[notger]

speakon plug goes like this.

i read that the speakons make some heat troubles above 30A.
So whats actually the motivation to use them insted of a second XT60 glued, or shrunkto the on before the capacitators as the bridge leading to the Phase?

can just be tha fact that they are nice to add into a housing? right

 

[ridethelightning]

xt160 or xt90 is not very nice when you have to use it frequently.

I like the speakon cause it does everthing it needs to well.

I think the heating issues mentioned by some is due to them buying the 30A cont version.

I made sure I used the 40A continuous,50A peak version, and if the solder joints are good, cables fat, I get no heat problems at ~20A continuous(battery current), I think it would take 25A too, but dont have a psu powerful enough to try, EATON apr is only good for ~30A output@54v

 

[notger]

Im a bit hesitate to ask adaptto beginners questions cause this thread seems quite advanced in the process
but im just too lazy to find everything out by myself

So, for test purpose, and cause i do not have a backpack battery ready and none of my other batteries fit in my actual bike frame i use my very small 60 volt 8AH VTC4 batterie without balancers.
its small but powerful and enough to have 1-2hours fun in the wood with 1-2kw

I tried to set adaptto to 8AH and the 470WH of my battery, but 10Ah is the smallest AH that can be set in the actual firmware also WH were not so easy to set to 470WH i had to turn a ""full round" to 99999 to start from 0 again.

so my actual setup is 10AH 470WH with my 8AH 470WH batterie NO BMS
after todays ride i was looking for the first time if batteryhealth is showing something usefull.
but it does not.

The Stats show me
trp 232 AH
tme 3,98 AH
rem 240 AH
that sound realistic, and got proofen by measuring the charging AH

But the battery health bar ist showing me 97%,
?? what principle is the battery health bar using, cause the remaining an use WH in the Stats are right ?

thanks in advance

Gernot

 

[Routybouty]

Has anyone seen this message? Any idea as to what connection it's even referring to?

 

[Allex]

Bad or no signal on one of the wires that goes from controller to display

 

[Routybouty]

The display side connector that connects to the controller had the wires ripped out and were making immediate contacts. Fixed and working, thanks Allex.

 

[rborger73]

xt160 or xt90 is not very nice when you have to use it frequently.

I like the speakon cause it does everthing it needs to well.

I think the heating issues mentioned by some is due to them buying the 30A cont version.

I made sure I used the 40A continuous,50A peak version, and if the solder joints are good, cables fat, I get no heat problems at ~20A continuous(battery current), I think it would take 25A too, but dont have a psu powerful enough to try, EATON apr is only good for ~30A output@54v

I've used an Xt60 connection for my charger for the last 8,000 miles or so. Works perfectly.

 

[morati]

I cannot scroll through screens on my Adaptto. Checked and cleaned all connections multiple times but problem persists...... Any help would be appreciated.
Its OK. Grey wire into display was suspect. Disassembled display and repaired....All is good....

 

[ridethelightning]

xt160 or xt90 is not very nice when you have to use it frequently.

I like the speakon cause it does everthing it needs to well.

I think the heating issues mentioned by some is due to them buying the 30A cont version.

I made sure I used the 40A continuous,50A peak version, and if the solder joints are good, cables fat, I get no heat problems at ~20A continuous(battery current), I think it would take 25A too, but dont have a psu powerful enough to try, EATON apr is only good for ~30A output@54v

I've used an Xt60 connection for my charger for the last 8,000 miles or so. Works perfectly.

im sure it would, but perhaps you would need to glue 2 together to connect the coil circuit when you charge,if you dont want to use a switch to engage the coil...with the coil installed on the bike that is.

I cannot scroll through screens on my Adaptto. Checked and cleaned all connections multiple times but problem persists...... Any help would be appreciated.
Its OK. Grey wire into display was suspect. Disassembled display and repaired....All is good....

good to know for next time,if my screen stops scrolling..

 

[brumbrum]

My brand new yet unused max-e controller is now on its way to Russia after the 'puff of smoke' incident on my first auto-detect It cost both an arm and a leg to send it there with tracking ability . I hope they can work their magic and get it back soon so i can resume my build.

 

[morati]

My Max-E is also on the way back for service.....Hope all can be worked out.

 

[ridethelightning]

My Max-E is also on the way back for service.....Hope all can be worked out.

so it was more then the grey wire to display that was broken?

 

[morati]

My Max-E is also on the way back for service.....Hope all can be worked out.

so it was more then the grey wire to display that was broken?

I afraid so.....Worked fine in my basement all winter long and as soon as I brought it out for the good weather this happens. Beyond my abilities to repair it and since it is still under warranty, I am only loosing riding time on my bike. Lets see how long it takes.

 

[brumbrum]

My Max-E is also on the way back for service.....Hope all can be worked out.

so it was more then the grey wire to display that was broken?

I afraid so.....Worked fine in my basement all winter long and as soon as I brought it out for the good weather this happens. Beyond my abilities to repair it and since it is still under warranty, I am only loosing riding time on my bike. Lets see how long it takes.

I hear they have a quick turn around. A friend of mine sent his off for warranty repair and got it back in about two weeks. Fingers crossed.

 

[rborger73]

xt160 or xt90 is not very nice when you have to use it frequently.

I like the speakon cause it does everthing it needs to well.

I think the heating issues mentioned by some is due to them buying the 30A cont version.

I made sure I used the 40A continuous,50A peak version, and if the solder joints are good, cables fat, I get no heat problems at ~20A continuous(battery current), I think it would take 25A too, but dont have a psu powerful enough to try, EATON apr is only good for ~30A output@54v

I've used an Xt60 connection for my charger for the last 8,000 miles or so. Works perfectly.

im sure it would, but perhaps you would need to glue 2 together to connect the coil circuit when you charge,if you dont want to use a switch to engage the coil...with the coil installed on the bike that is.

I cannot scroll through screens on my Adaptto. Checked and cleaned all connections multiple times but problem persists...... Any help would be appreciated.
Its OK. Grey wire into display was suspect. Disassembled display and repaired....All is good....

good to know for next time,if my screen stops scrolling..

This is on my ebike, not on the etrike I'm building. Just saying the xt60's work super smooth and the tension to connect and disconnect stays the same, and they don't unplug unless you actually pull them apart though.

 

[Dibul]

Hello everyone. This is my first time in this forum, i have a brand new adaptto max e controller, but when i connect the positive and the negative wires to the controller, i switch the key and the display doesn't turn on. What could it be? I try with my multimeter and my battery is 70v, i try to open the connector number 4 on the adaptto controller and the wires of the pin appear be good. Thanks in advance

 

[notger]

Hi, guys.

i use one adaptoo on both of my bikes, and on both bikes the adaptto case is a bit too long to fit nice without any scraping, or stuffing.

so my adaptoo is allready out of the warranty time, 15 month now, i opened it a while ago and saw that there is quite some "unused" space inside.

So my idea is to shorten the case 20-30mm to make it fit nicer on my setups.

Would anyone have any concerns in term of overheating cause of less cooling surface used with 3kw.
or any other concerns about it?

Cause i'm kind of surprised that the adaptto-developers do not use a smaller, better space-used case with some cooling-rips., there might be a reason behind it?, or just a cost factor?
Cause in terms of size and look i miss my kellys

thanks in advance

notger

 

[brumbrum]

Hello everyone. This is my first time in this forum, i have a brand new adaptto max e controller, but when i connect the positive and the negative wires to the controller, i switch the key and the display doesn't turn on. What could it be? I try with my multimeter and my battery is 70v, i try to open the connector number 4 on the adaptto controller and the wires of the pin appear be good. Thanks in advance

There have been reports of poor soldering connections inside the display case. I believe it is pretty easy to open up and take a look inside.
It takes 6 or 7 seconds for my display to come on.
Other things to condider. It could be your switch (on / off connection). It could be fuse issue?

 

[icherouveim]

Hello Guys!

I have a mini-e, it was working fine with my Crystalyte 10K thermal sensor for the last 6 months.
When I switched it on two days ago to go to work it was showing 150 degrees celcius and when I disconnect the 10k sensor it shows about 130 celcius.
I've tested it also with the supplied xxx84 sensor that comes with the controller and it shows 0 celcius.
I reset the controller, I re installed the latest firmware but the same problem. I don't know what else to do I run out of ideas.
Is someone here that had the same problem ?

the controller works fine if I disable the thermal sensor but this is not good because I will destroy the motor if I go for a long ride.

From yesterday night it show always 0 Celsius whatever kind of thermal sensor I connect. Really strange.
Maybe something is burned into the controller

 

[douglashart]

Ive just re-readjusted things on the bike including replacing the halls cable to the motor. Now I have ' halls error' . I'm pretty sure that when I bent those little solder connections around a tight corner that I probably opened one up, but, while the bike was contorted in every direction ive cracked the throttle housing and possibly pulled on those connections. My question is: does the 'halls error' apply only to the motor halls or could a bad throttle also be the cause? thnx

 

[Samer]

hey guys

any body here has tried adaptto with cyclone motor?
planing get one kranked e2 square
14s8p samsung 25r 52v


cheers