Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[wingsuit]

Are the on offwires the small red and green ones that come out of the controller side of the pas wires? Looking at the wiring diagram it looks like there's a designated wire for the on off, but the only unaccounted for I see are a small red and green coming out of the backside of the pas connector. I'm not useing pas so I assume I can just leave that one hanging in my frame?

Finally tore my bike apart to swap out my mini for a midi I ordered last year and trying to go through the setup again.

 

[GmagNeato]

Are the on offwires the small red and green ones that come out of the controller side of the pas wires? Looking at the wiring diagram it looks like there's a designated wire for the on off, but the only unaccounted for I see are a small red and green coming out of the backside of the pas connector. I'm not useing pas so I assume I can just leave that one hanging in my frame?

Finally tore my bike apart to swap out my mini for a midi I ordered last year and trying to go through the setup again.

Yes those are the on off wires. You can wire in a switch between them. I've never used the PAS either but make sure the pas wires ends or the connector (if you're leaving it on) are insulated.

 

[brumbrum]

Are the on offwires the small red and green ones that come out of the controller side of the pas wires? Looking at the wiring diagram it looks like there's a designated wire for the on off, but the only unaccounted for I see are a small red and green coming out of the backside of the pas connector. I'm not useing pas so I assume I can just leave that one hanging in my frame?

Finally tore my bike apart to swap out my mini for a midi I ordered last year and trying to go through the setup again.

The green and red wires will of course have to be connected together regardless if wiring in a switch or not. Be careful with them as they carry a lot of voltage and will short onto conductive surfaces.

 

[OV_]

pretty much something went wrong with the phase wires, either a short on the motor or pcb on the controller. better fix and TEST the motor 100% before connecting to the adaptto again.
if you are very very lucky, fix the short on motor might be ok. otherwise a trip to Russia.

Took a while... Tested it with another motor in SELSS and it's a still no go. It tries to do something clearly at first when u reboot max-e. I can hear very faint noise from motor before it says Protect. Didn't notice it before but now I can hear it with both motors.

Posting updates if it helps some one how has same problems... Did lot of googling before so I think any data will help at some on at some point.

Now max-e confirmed dead. It let the working smoke out: https://www.dropbox.com/s/p8huauw13fd2mr3/2017-06-24%2021.58.48.jpg?dl=0

I think that BCTECH diagnose is pretty right problem was/is with phases at controller side and now allso that burnt little pcb. But I'm not electric wizard so don't have clue what to do with that controller now. Damn waste if it is just fishing net weight.

It sucks hard that u have 800$ controller with no support. Ok it's 2000km driven and I'm ok with that things fall apart sometimes. I just have got used to that manufactures really take interest what they sell and they have some line of customer service. Been playing a while with rc-cars and I have great experiences about Futaba and Castle Creations. Happy customer will bring more customers and unhappy will take them away. Now it has been all most 2 months and no response from Adappto.

Luckily bought that 24FET controller from powervelocity.com so bike is running again!

 

[Altair]

That's sad. But it's not a fishing weight yet.
Even if Afaptto hasn't replied to your emails, you could send it to them anyway. Be sure to include all your contact information and a description of the problem. Also mention that you sent many emails and didn't get a reply. (Maybe your emails went to his spam folder)

The address that Oleg gave me is:
Recipient: Razumovskiy Boris Alexandrovich
Address: 119602, Russia, Moscow, Olympic Village, Michurinskiy prospect 1, bld.1, apt 201.
Phone: +7 925 556 01 66
On the package, I wrote the address in the international way, which is the inverse of what he wrote, and it worked fine.
You send it via air mail with a tracking number, so it can't be lost. Once they get it, they will repair it, don't worry.

 

[brumbrum]

For some comfort, my maxe has been back to Russia twice. I used the same address as posted above. Try and use a postal company that uses EMS when it gets to Russia, this was recommended by Oleg as a smooth path passed russian customs. They will send the controller back free of charge. There will be a 4-6 week wait from beginning to end. Make sure you also give them your email address! My maxe went up in a puff of smoke straight out of the box

 

[Altair]

Oh and another thing,
On the customs declaration, just write: eBike part for my friend.
And declare a value that is less than $100US.
So they won't have problems with the customs.

 

[douglashart]

setting up a new bike with my older mini. I have a # of questions about the brake setup but ill stick with my #1 issue--- when at a stop sign I let go of the brake and if I grab the throttle immediately it goes to "thrl" then I have to wait about a second for it to reset before I can actually take off. I always need to be mindful not to grab the throttle too soon after releasing the brake. Is this a common thing? It can be , not only inconvenient, but a bit dangerous when expecting to accelerate , then having to wait. I haven't seen it addressed so thought I would ask. Since it can be

 

[douglashart]

By the way , to resolve this issue, I started running without the brake cutoff, however , one day I was on 'cruise', touched the front brake , and ended up with 2 broken thumbs , so now I'm into the brake cutoff.

 

[miunchy]

setting up a new bike with my older mini. I have a # of questions about the brake setup but ill stick with my #1 issue--- when at a stop sign I let go of the brake and if I grab the throttle immediately it goes to "thrl" then I have to wait about a second for it to reset before I can actually take off. I always need to be mindful not to grab the throttle too soon after releasing the brake. Is this a common thing? It can be , not only inconvenient, but a bit dangerous when expecting to accelerate , then having to wait. I haven't seen it addressed so thought I would ask. Since it can be

Try set to "NO" this:
Controller setup/Traction settings/ACC off on BRK

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Hi All,

It's been a while since I chimed in. My Mini-E is still going mostly well and pushed me and my Fighter to the top of a 1400m mountain the other day.

However, it's not all good news. My Mini-E has been showing PROTECT when turning on. Sometimes it stays showing Protect, other times it disappears after a few seconds. Usually turning the controller off/on again will fix it, but I'm not sure what's causing it.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what might be causing it to show Protect, but only sometimes when turning on?

Cheers

 

[douglashart]

Thanks Miunchy, Ill try that but first ive got more problems. MY DISPLAY WONT COME ON. Just rigged up the bike for a trial run on the rack, I first only hooked up the display and charged the battery a little, then hooked up the throttle and brake. I then ran it thru autodetect and all is good. Checked the brakes , good . Ran it WOT a couple times , everything seemed fine so I shut it off and took a break. When I came back the display wont come on. Its got 5V out of the usb so power is there . Could It be simple as a broken wire to the display or does anyone have any idea?

 

[douglashart]

After looking again I see the main display cable is a little loose in the case . Now I want to open the case just in case it got jerked out of a solder in there, but I haven't seen much on opening the display case on this thread, Can I do that?

 

[BCTECH]

After looking again I see the main display cable is a little loose in the case . Now I want to open the case just in case it got jerked out of a solder in there, but I haven't seen much on opening the display case on this thread, Can I do that?

4 screws at the back to open the display, pretty straight forward. just need a bit longer small screw driver for the bottom 2 screws, since it needs to pass though the mounting holes to reach the screws straight. I almost stripped the screws by doing it at an angle.

 

[Altair]

and two of the screws are a bit shorter than the other two. Don't mix them up.

 

[ridethelightning]

Hi All,

It's been a while since I chimed in. My Mini-E is still going mostly well and pushed me and my Fighter to the top of a 1400m mountain the other day.

However, it's not all good news. My Mini-E has been showing PROTECT when turning on. Sometimes it stays showing Protect, other times it disappears after a few seconds. Usually turning the controller off/on again will fix it, but I'm not sure what's causing it.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what might be causing it to show Protect, but only sometimes when turning on?

Cheers

get ready for more issues. PROTECT has never been a good sign with my controllers..

 

[GmagNeato]

I am basically novice when it comes to electronics, but i took my mini-e to an electronics engineer(my uncle ) to try to repair it.
i actually have 2 mini-e controllers that i tried to fix...

basically after opening it and discovering the trace and micro ribbon connectors were damaged from a fet blowing, we removed all the fets and components on the power board.
its quite a tricky job, but can be done with the right tools- soldering iron, solder remover.
after cleaning everything up, buying new fets to replace the old ones, sourcing new micromatch connectors etc, we found the trace was totally disintigrated in on place, and decided it was too much trouble to replace/repair it(im sure it could be done though, if you need to and were more patient)

i even tried to order a new pcb from oleg, but the price he quoted was absolutely ridiculous~100+usd, and then he decided not to even send it afterall :lol:
go figure..

so, after biting the bullet, with another(new)broken minie-e, sending it back with postage cost~100aud,+repair cost 30usd, recieved the controller back from repair only to find it now displaying ~150A continuous charge current
fw upgrade/reset did not help.

so, i admire the adventurous spirit to learn about and try to repair these controllers diy style. it may be the best way :lol:
id be very interested it find out hoe it goes..

Thanks for the encouragement RTL. Whatever happens, I suppose as a last resort I can send it to Russia. Better than an $800 paperweight I suppose :lol:

Sorry to hear about your woes with the mini-e's. Sounds like the one you attempted to repair had quite a bit of damage. My max-e doesn't appear to be in that bad of shape, but we'll see. For me, a successful repair will definitely require a healthy dose of luck.

In the meantime, I picked up another controller to get me back on the road for now.


Far from the Adaptto system, but at least it has variable regen and is Bluetooth programmable. I'm hoping to be able to pump at least 10kw into the 205 with it. I liked that Kelly offers a waterproof option, as well as a massive heatsink!


I went with both as the price was fairly reasonable.

 

[GmagNeato]

In other news.. I got my order from Digikey today







Have to do some more research regarding matching mosfets, so I can select the 3 that are closest to one another. Then I'll start the process of taking the 3 bad ones out.

 

[douglashart]

THANX Guys, Popped the display apart and checked the cable, reads good. Ive got 13.3v to the display and just under 5v at the usb. Still MY DISPLAY WONT COME ON! HELP!!! I contacted adaptto a couple days ago but no response yet.

 

[ridethelightning]

In other news.. I got my order from Digikey today

View attachment 4
View attachment 3
View attachment 2
View attachment 1


Have to do some more research regarding matching mosfets, so I can select the 3 that are closest to one another. Then I'll start the process of taking the 3 bad ones out.

nice work! i got some spare fets from ebay, definitely not too sure of their integrity.
how was the price?

it might be worth upgrading the caps while you have the power board apart, have you seen dr bass's thread on operating on max-es? oh, and changing the phase cables to 6awg, will need to rework the exit seals ofcourse and need a huge soldering iron.

im keen to see how this goes. good luck.

 

[bigbore]

I am basically novice when it comes to electronics, but i took my mini-e to an electronics engineer(my uncle ) to try to repair it.
i actually have 2 mini-e controllers that i tried to fix...

basically after opening it and discovering the trace and micro ribbon connectors were damaged from a fet blowing, we removed all the fets and components on the power board.
its quite a tricky job, but can be done with the right tools- soldering iron, solder remover.
after cleaning everything up, buying new fets to replace the old ones, sourcing new micromatch connectors etc, we found the trace was totally disintigrated in on place, and decided it was too much trouble to replace/repair it(im sure it could be done though, if you need to and were more patient)

i even tried to order a new pcb from oleg, but the price he quoted was absolutely ridiculous~100+usd, and then he decided not to even send it afterall :lol:
go figure..

so, after biting the bullet, with another(new)broken minie-e, sending it back with postage cost~100aud,+repair cost 30usd, recieved the controller back from repair only to find it now displaying ~150A continuous charge current
fw upgrade/reset did not help.

so, i admire the adventurous spirit to learn about and try to repair these controllers diy style. it may be the best way :lol:
id be very interested it find out hoe it goes..

Thanks for the encouragement RTL. Whatever happens, I suppose as a last resort I can send it to Russia. Better than an $800 paperweight I suppose :lol:

Sorry to hear about your woes with the mini-e's. Sounds like the one you attempted to repair had quite a bit of damage. My max-e doesn't appear to be in that bad of shape, but we'll see. For me, a successful repair will definitely require a healthy dose of luck.

In the meantime, I picked up another controller to get me back on the road for now.
View attachment 1

Far from the Adaptto system, but at least it has variable regen and is Bluetooth programmable. I'm hoping to be able to pump at least 10kw into the 205 with it. I liked that Kelly offers a waterproof option, as well as a massive heatsink!


I went with both as the price was fairly reasonable.

Is that controller also pure sine wave?

 

[GmagNeato]

Is that controller also pure sine wave?

Yes sir.

 

[GmagNeato]

In other news.. I got my order from Digikey today

View attachment 4
View attachment 3
View attachment 2
View attachment 1


Have to do some more research regarding matching mosfets, so I can select the 3 that are closest to one another. Then I'll start the process of taking the 3 bad ones out.

nice work! i got some spare fets from ebay, definitely not too sure of their integrity.
how was the price?

it might be worth upgrading the caps while you have the power board apart, have you seen dr bass's thread on operating on max-es? oh, and changing the phase cables to 6awg, will need to rework the exit seals ofcourse and need a huge soldering iron.

im keen to see how this goes. good luck.

They were about $6 a piece. For quantities less than 10, they are a little more. Cost continues to go down as purchase quantity goes up. There are definitely cheaper options, but I wanted authentic and from what I’ve heard they only purchase directly from suppliers.

I think I had a peek at Dr. Bass’s thread you’re taking about, but didn’t read it thoroughly.. now I’m having a little trouble finding it. :? You wouldn’t happen to have the thread title or a link would you? I may consider upgrading the caps and phases but I kind of want to see if the mosfet replacement works before doing all that.

 

[ridethelightning]

some related-
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61183&start=1350#p1026430.

ill look for dr bass bass post soon.

 

[Allex]

For those who are waiting for a new controller version, here is some "insider" info
This is roughly translated with google so take it easy

Currently the new 18 FET controller is almost finished. On the way to the finish line a lot of optimizations were made and in the end it became too powerful for ebikes. When using it with a mid drive config it feels like a 500cc bike. The limitations during the test were in the motor, controller itself was barely warm.

It became clear that this controller is way to powerful for a regular ebike user and so they begun to finalize a 6-fet controller on the same base. The power of this controller will be some where between mini and max.

Some specs:
Halls are separated, so now when you short halls with one of the phases, it will continue running but show a massage on the screen.
FOC mode - no more motor tuning. Some mid drives still need it, but the plan is of course to fix this as well.
Charge sensor - when you connect the coil the controller will see it and stop the motor.
Bluetooth - but this(app) is still in early stage. Need to fix for Android and IOS
Invertor mode + charge mode - on one phase you connect the charger on other two 220v invertor. This make it work like a UPS.
Spot welder mode - this is on the big controller, did not test this on the smaller one(will probably take 0.1mm but not 0.2 like the bigger one. You just need to connect electrodes to the phase wires to make it work.
Accelerometer, gyro and compass.
DC out 12v/16A
Ports: LCD, BMS, PAS, speed sensor, alarm and on/off. And also you will be able to connect throttle/brake without the display.

Old display will work with the new controller line but the throttle calibration will not work in this case

Main goal with this new controller will be robustness, practically non-breakable for all of those users that connect it the wrong way.
Better water protection and heat dissapation.

No prices yet.
No dates yet, but hopefully by the end of this year.
Fets are the same. IRFP4468. The controller is compatible with IRFP4568 (150v)
Battery limits are the same, about 90v, OVS is still present.
Controller supports the old BMS. New BMS is in plan, with temp-sensor.

Oh and the power on the big one: they test 18fet controller with 500-600 peak phase amps with 75V battery(75V when sagging) it spits out more than 30kW
New 18 fet will be slightly bigger than the old 18fet.
Yes you will be able to buy both 18 anf 6 fet version.

This is all!