Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[nio88]

Yes, they are LG HG2 3000mah, we will see how they works

Now it´s charging guys.... just connect to the motor as first post says , sorry i didn´t read carefully , thanks...

 

[ap0f1s]

I have a problem with my adaptto. When i turn on my adaptto i have only eco mode, but i can't do anything.. E-bike works fine but, only a eco mode.
I have midi e locked firmware MIDI-E | v1-RC9G4 install from adaptto side http://adaptto.com/Support/

 

[burner77]

could somebody help me out:
my Adaptto stopped working, after I left it ON for 1 week. It was turned ON because of balancing and I forget to shot the controller off. After 1 week I wanted to drive again, but the display was off in the ON position of the lock. No chance to turn it on again. Checked the voltage, the lock, every connection, also without BMS. It worked fine before and I didn't change anything, but it doesn't work now. Was just ON for a week. Would be great, otherwise the only possibility would be to send it to Russia. Thanks

 

[douglashart]

Just got my mini back from Russia. I ran auto detect a few times but it didn't seem close to right, ie- anglecorr +28 +18 +16. Top speed after, varied 25 to 35 mph. I ended up putting it to boost, went to angle corr. and adjusted it while WOT . I found that at -.78 the motor ran up to 52 mph and any variance either way reduced top speed. I also tried manually(dr bass style) and, tho a bit vague, I put it(AC) about +5 which resulted a top speed 35 mph . The motor seems to run well when the AC is set to highest speed so I guess my question is---Am I doing something wrong by setting it here? do other settings bring it up to higher speed as it accelerates? I do like 50 mph over 35 ,and it just seems right , but what do I know?

 

[Merlin]

could somebody help me out:
my Adaptto stopped working, after I left it ON for 1 week. It was turned ON because of balancing and I forget to shot the controller off. After 1 week I wanted to drive again, but the display was off in the ON position of the lock. No chance to turn it on again. Checked the voltage, the lock, every connection, also without BMS. It worked fine before and I didn't change anything, but it doesn't work now. Was just ON for a week. Would be great, otherwise the only possibility would be to send it to Russia. Thanks

you have mail

 

[Cricket_Swe]

Is there a left hand thumb throttle that's waterproof? I would like to use it for the regen, (Adaptto had variable regen?) or should I use a button instead with the "smooth mode" I read somewhere that using a thumb throttle for regen solved the problem of needing a resistor for the Domino throttle? Or is regen overrated and I should skip it and use a 560 ohm resistor for my Domino throttle?

 

[dirttorpedo]

So I noticed something weird about my mini-e yesterday. When I run 18s lipo on the street acceleration is wicked fast. The initial draw is low from a stop or at slow speeds, 15-20a WOT, but it quickly ramps up the max of 80a. On tight, curvy singletrack I never get anywhere near that max. The amperage ramp up is slow enough that by the time I get into the 30s and 40s, I have to let off for turns.

Yesterday I reconfigured a couple 6s 10ah packs to 12s 30ah thinking I would do a long city ride. As expected the top end was low compared to other configs, but it felt like it was pulling hard off the line. So I took it to the trails. I wasn't running my GPS so I didn't log any of my runs for a comparison, but the thing felt like a BEAST. I was pulling 50a from a stop and quickly reaching 80a on most stretches. I also usually stop every other run to let the motor cool (lots of climbing where I ride), but I never got above 80c/ 180f. I'll probably run it again tonight with gps but I'm seriously thinking about running 12s instead of 18 on the trails now.

 

[dirttorpedo]

Also worth noting: I've tried lots of tricks from these forums (never messed with the firmware) but I have never been able to get 18 or 20s to pull those kind of amps off the line with the Adaptto.

 

[burner77]

Is there a left hand thumb throttle that's waterproof? I would like to use it for the regen, (Adaptto had variable regen?) or should I use a button instead with the "smooth mode" I read somewhere that using a thumb throttle for regen solved the problem of needing a resistor for the Domino throttle? Or is regen overrated and I should skip it and use a 560 ohm resistor for my Domino throttle?

Adaptoo has regen and it is nice to use even as a brake. If you live in a flat place it isn't worth regarding energy. Even in the mountains it is hard to regen more than 3% of the total energy consumption. You could use a extra throttle or semething like this:
https://fasterbikes.eu/en/parts/180-bafang-bbs-left-thumb-throttleparts.html

 

[Cricket_Swe]

Thanks!

 

[Buk___]

You could use a extra throttle or semething like this:
https://fasterbikes.eu/en/parts/180-bafang-bbs-left-thumb-throttleparts.html

Be aware, you can get that a hell of a lot cheaper

 

[fsmuggen]

I've been quiet for a while now, but Ive got into a smal issue lately, and I wonder if anyone here have some information or pics that can help me.
My E-max realeased some magic smoke when I started charging.
I now have had a look at it together with a another tech, the problem looks like a few burned fets and some resistors burned, but its hard to see what value the resistors had. Allso the traces on the board some places are hard to follow. Do anyone have drawings or scematics of the controller, or a pic or two of the traces and resistor values on the printboard section that Im missing? :?

 

[Cowardlyduck]

So I noticed something weird about my mini-e yesterday. When I run 18s lipo on the street acceleration is wicked fast. The initial draw is low from a stop or at slow speeds, 15-20a WOT, but it quickly ramps up the max of 80a. On tight, curvy singletrack I never get anywhere near that max. The amperage ramp up is slow enough that by the time I get into the 30s and 40s, I have to let off for turns.

Yesterday I reconfigured a couple 6s 10ah packs to 12s 30ah thinking I would do a long city ride. As expected the top end was low compared to other configs, but it felt like it was pulling hard off the line. So I took it to the trails. I wasn't running my GPS so I didn't log any of my runs for a comparison, but the thing felt like a BEAST. I was pulling 50a from a stop and quickly reaching 80a on most stretches. I also usually stop every other run to let the motor cool (lots of climbing where I ride), but I never got above 80c/ 180f. I'll probably run it again tonight with gps but I'm seriously thinking about running 12s instead of 18 on the trails now.

This is interesting. I've run my Mini-E on both 18s (current setup) and 12s (previous setup for over a year), and never really noticed a difference like that.
When you switch pack voltage did you also do a retune or auto-detect?
It could be that your motor settings, angle corr, IND timing, etc, was more optimised for the 12S setup and running on 18S was not optimal.

I'm currently building a large 14S 18650 pack for my bike which I will switch to (from the current 18S) some time in the coming months. I will report back if I notice anything like what you've described.

Cheers

 

[dirttorpedo]

Yeah, it's weird. I didn't do any tuning really. I just swapped some parallels and series harnesses. The only settings I changed were lvc and hvc in the battery settings which I've done a hundred times for other configs. I usually run a 20s and switch over to 18s for the trails because my 72v battery only puts out 30a continuous. I have a pair of C63 breakers in a waterproof enclosure mounted right in front of the seat mast on my EEB frame. This way I just flip switches and change lvc/hvc to swap batteries without opening the frame. With either of those batteries the opening draw for a stop is the low 15-20a. Honestly I never even thought of doing another autodetect. I set up initially for 72v and just left it.

My first though was something in the Mini limiting hard starts at high voltage. If it's not that I actually suspect specific lipo bricks or a bad harness might have something to do with it. I have a package coming from HK and I plan to do some tests this weekend before I mess with calibration. It took forever to get the right power to heat balance.

In other news my ride yesterday definitely showed better times at the mountain. All of my checkpoints came in just under my best times at 18s for wet conditions.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

That is weird dirttorpedo, but could it also have something to do with the controller protecting itself at higher voltages? I mean it has been mentioned before that as you approach the controllers HVC it will start limiting amps automatically until the voltage drops to safer levels. Could it be a more gradual linear change?

If your after a quality high power LiPo harness, I can fix you up. Jump on over to my harness sales thread:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=83872

In other news, I got out for a decent ride the other weekend on my new tune to finally test it's effects on heat. For those who don't recall, I was trying the approach of reducing the Angle Corr. and IND timings values as close as possible to 0 while still keeping everything smooth and in-line with the auto-detect style tuning parameters. i.e. lowest possible amps draw.
Well it's really hard to say, but I think things got less hot. There was lots of tight slow twisty steep single track...the kind of stuff that makes the most heat...and I only hit thermal cut-off (140C) twice. I would say it is performing marginally better, but not by much.

Cheers

 

[agedashidofu]

I also did a couple of experiments on the Angle Corr & IND timings tuning.

What I have found that worked (using QS 205 motor):

First and foremost, you want to ensure that the halls are placed correctly to begin with (may need to open hub motor) - which angles are correct? Google this - there's a lot of guide on the net. Post that:

1. Lift the wheel to enable it to free spin
2. Auto Tune (might want to try a few times) - reset, auto-tune again. This is until you have a smooth start
3. Set both phase & batt amp to a low value
4. Keep Ind timing to ~350 - 380
4. hit the throttle - watch the speed & amp reading
5. increase Angle Corr in small increment - watch the speed & amp again.
6. Keep repeating steps 4 & 5 until you have the fastest speed @ lowest amp. At this point, you should freeze the angle. corr adj value
7. Now it's time to tinker w/ Ind timing. I started w/ 350 and increased it gradually until I have the fastest speed @ lowest amp
8. Freeze the Ind. Timing value
9. Now you should have the most optimal tuning.

I also initially thought that the angle. corr should be close to 0 - but apparently that's not always the case - depending on the motor.

Having said that - my conclusion is that there's still no replacement for # of FETs. My 24-fet sabvoton runs cooler than my Adapttos, albeit with a lot less features.

Hope this helps!

 

[andrebandre]

Cowardlyducks you rock!

What more of a detailed user guide can you ask for.

Quad index hands and feet up!

 

[andrebandre]

agedashidofu
Weather or not i ought todo it i do apologize.
I'm short sighted, stupid, and can never understand the subtleties and benefits of electric current.

 

[nio88]

Hi guys,
after reading almost all the post in this thread, I´m not still figure out how bms works .
My battery has 4 rides, and one of the group cell started (when i built the battery) as q difference of 0.025v, but after 2 rides the same group was around 0.045... Then my obsession for balancing that group started , but I wasn´t be able to do it.

My problem now is, after 2 more rides that group is 0.1v, and I´m a slighly worry.
This picture is after a nice morning ride.

My initial bms configuration was (cell config) at maximum of 4.15 and balancing to 4.14. The first time I charged the battery that group never reach 4.14, it was in 4.09.

Then in my second attempt I set down balancing config to the lowest voltage, when the battery was fully charged (around 4.09).

First time I left the charger connected while I saw balancing in the screen, but nothing happended after 5 hours (same difference)
My second attempt was, I unplugged the charger when battery was fully charged (some in this thread suggested that method), and left bms for the whole night trying to balance the others cells, but same result.

Can anyone help on how I could recover that group?? All the cells were brand new, and all them had same voltage when I built the pack. So I´m guessing all cells should be ok.

Thank you..

 

[madin88]

nio88 i would charge the group 14 with external charger up to the same voltage as the other groups.
if you do it with low current (less than 1A or so) a connection to the balancing wires would be enough. Otherwise solder wires directly to this group and remove them afterwards.

If the voltage starts dropping again, there is at least one faulty cell in this group.

 

[csc]

Guys I absolutely need an adaptto screen !!! Please send me a pm if you can help. I'm in France, Europe.

madin88 : did you finally get the slave master config to work properly ? I have the same damn speed limit problem that you met.

So everybody I very much need a second adaptto screen to go back to a working 2wd setup.

To those who might give it a try, beware : splitting the signals from single accelerator and break sensors randomly provoked shorts that cost me all my 4 spare screens (still don't understand the real reason) !!!!!!

So I'm working on a quad signal throttle system (acc1 acc2 brk1 brk2) for not bricking your screen that you'll kindly send me in a very short delay !!!!!!!

 

[madin88]

madin88 : did you finally get the slave master config to work properly ? I have the same damn speed limit problem that you met.

I could not sort out the issues so the 2WD unit went to moscow. The Adaptto guys hooked it up on theire test bench, but than they noticed that the 2WD system was never designed to work on a 4-wheel vehicle with both motors doing exactly the same.
It was designed only for a 2-wheel bike with one motor in the front and one in the rear. It cannot be configured to make it work like desired and i got the unit back. It cost me only shipping costs to them which was about 40€.
But they promised me i will get a discount on one future product or something like that...

Strange that you broke the electronic from the screen with the Y-connection.
hmm.. did you connect all 4 wires from both displays?
Maybe it helps if you use the +5V only from ONE display, and just Y-connect GND and the two signal wires.

 

[csc]

Maybe it helps if you use the +5V only from ONE display, and just Y-connect GND and the two signal wires.

Already did that, the problem is still happening on a random basis (I'd say once a year !)

Concerning the 2wd on a 2 vs 4 wheels, I don't see any difference. The motors should be able to run the same or at least at 2 x max power.

They screwed and did not want to recognise it !

Anyway if I achieve this 4 signals setup, it's a lot of mess avoided in the 2wd future. I'll keep the master slave option as a backup.

Edit : I found this, which is bad news : I'll spend more hours trying again and again

Please check controllers and displays firmware revision.

They must be at same revision, the latest RC9G4, or presets values will not be synchronized.
Also, check if wheel size has been well setup in both controllers.

I had similar problems, and the firmwares was at differents revision.

I have 9C FD2605 direct drive front on 20" wheel, and MXUS 500/1000w geared 16" wheel on rear,
and i can set up eco/normal/boost parametrs on each controller to balance power.

Good luck.

 

[nio88]

nio88 i would charge the group 14 with external charger up to the same voltage as the other groups.
if you do it with low current (less than 1A or so) a connection to the balancing wires would be enough. Otherwise solder wires directly to this group and remove them afterwards.

If the voltage starts dropping again, there is at least one faulty cell in this group.

my problem is, my battery pack is a welded pack , it´s not easy remove that group and charge it, and not sure how I can insolate that group and charge it without disassesemble part of the battery...

If some cells are wrong in that group it´s going to be a pain in the ass :?

 

[madin88]

my problem is, my battery pack is a welded pack , it´s not easy remove that group and charge it, and not sure how I can insolate that group and charge it without disassesemble part of the battery...

don't think complicated. just use the balance wires of this group or solder new wires to + and - and charge it with 1s lipo charger (or adjustable CCCV PSU). If you have an RC cahrger it should work as well. I'm sure you will find something.

If some cells are wrong in that group it´s going to be a pain in the ass :?

yes for sure