Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[spektrolyte]

I'd say you have shorted phases... the reason why it blew the MOSFETS blew in the first place. I'd be checking your motor.

Yeah I though that could have been a possibility too, but this happened halfway through a charge while the bike was stationary and the motor works fine with a Sabvoton.

If the motor cogs without beeing attached to the controller than there is a short in the motor.
If it only cogs when attached to the controller (which is turned off) than FETs have a short.
If motor doesn't cog until controller is turned on, than there could be a problem with the driver boards.

As the PSU goes into protect there is definitely a short somewhere.
You can measure the coil harness for a short, but i don't think there is something wrong with it.

Do you have a newer gen controller with the revised power stage, or an older one (with the green color screen case)?

It only cogs when controller is turned on. This is the display, think its the newer gen:

Thanks for the help, both of you.

 

[Allex]

Its one of the earlier versions, a grey cable coming out.
Also if you dont have on/off wires coming form the controller it is really on of the first ones.

 

[spektrolyte]

Great, I was sold a lemon by the looks of it. Was told I was getting a stunning deal, got it home to find most of the parts pretty heavily worn, rust inside the frame and then the controller fails after one ride. Of course the seller wasn't interested in hearing about any of the problems, when I queried that the battery went flat with 60% left on the display I just got a short message telling me I should learn how to use it.

@Allex:

That's a stock picture to illustrate the style of the casing. Mine has all black wiring. USB socket, Connector for throttle and connector to controller unit.

Not sure what you. mean by power on/off wires.

 

[KoZi_man]

Hello everyone, sorry for my English.
I am from Czech Republic.

I have a problem with the temperature of the controller.
I read everything around midi-e controlleru, but I still can not set the bike.

He does not mind riding my bike as it overheats in 30 seconds.

I need to advise you on the calibration of my ebike.
Boost power mode :

Ib A100A
ip A 201 A phase.
IprA 100
SkpH 199


Information:

Adappto midi-e
engine MXUS 3K Turbo - XF40 45H
19 inch wheels
enduro rubber

Battery Samsung INR18650-30Q 3000mAh - 15A 22S10p

Battery AH 30.0 Ah
Baterry WH 2441 Wh
Dischg cutoff 59 V
Charge Cutoff 92V
Supply current 22 Ah
Charge current 22 A

F/W rev : v1 PWR1a

I need someone who has the same components and deal with fine tuning.

 

[fsmuggen]

Have anyone encountered problems regarding adjustment of charge current?
When i connect my charger to the adaptto it starts charging at 30A no mater what my settings in the charge menu is. is there any secret parameters to adjust regarding this problem?

 

[lukas999]

hey E Max users

any one using this set up?
Adaptto E Max Mxus 3000 V3 3 T 19 inch wheel

48 V system

just want to compare my values for motor tuning

Thanks!

 

[ridethelightning]

Have anyone encountered problems regarding adjustment of charge current?
When i connect my charger to the adaptto it starts charging at 30A no mater what my settings in the charge menu is. is there any secret parameters to adjust regarding this problem?

just to clarify for others, is that battery amps or charger output current?
either way, sounds very odd.
i got massivly wrong current readings on a mini-e once, turned out to be that i was using a non compatable display

 

[notger]

according to charging i have a question:

does anyone know how much vokts lower the charging supply voltage has to be compared to the discharged pack voltage ?

im planning to use my 15s pack with my eaton apr

with programmer-mod i can set the psu's voltage to 43volts minimum
lets say i discharge the cells (vtc5) to 2,8v per cell it would be 42volts pack voltage.
after a few minutes of not applying power to the pack the pack voltag will most probably climb back up to 2,9-3volts per cell =43,5volts.

so do you think half an volt lower would be enough to get the charge started.
if not any experiences what will happen if supply voltage is higher ?
lets take the worst case ->total discharge to 2,5volts per cell =37,5 and 43volts psu-supply voltage ?

my only idea to solve this without changing my eaton is to connect a high-watt-resistor between coil and eaton to lower the voltage a bit.

greets notger

 

[icherouveim]

No this is not going to work.
I had 14s pack, when it was empty it was 42-43V and the adaptto controller couldn't control the current from the PSU so it was charging too fast and the PSU was giving full power. I could charge properly only when my battery was at 60-70% and above.

 

[icherouveim]

Hello everyone, sorry for my English.
I am from Czech Republic.

I have a problem with the temperature of the controller.
I read everything around midi-e controlleru, but I still can not set the bike.

He does not mind riding my bike as it overheats in 30 seconds.

I need to advise you on the calibration of my ebike.
Boost power mode :

Ib A100A
ip A 201 A phase.
IprA 100
SkpH 199


Information:

Adappto midi-e
engine MXUS 3K Turbo - XF40 45H
19 inch wheels
enduro rubber


Battery Samsung INR18650-30Q 3000mAh - 15A 22S10p

Battery AH 30.0 Ah
Baterry WH 2441 Wh
Dischg cutoff 59 V
Charge Cutoff 92V
Supply current 22 Ah
Charge current 22 A

F/W rev : v1 PWR1a

I need someone who has the same components and deal with fine tuning.

IMG_1374 (Medium).JPG
IMG_1375 (Medium).JPG
IMG_1376 (Medium).JPG
IMG_1377 (Medium).JPG
IMG_1378 (Medium).JPG
IMG_1106 (Large).JPG

Hello,

I have a similar setup.
Your motor Tsens should be wrong, so the controller reads wrong temperature.

Also I suggest you to change the charge current value to 10-15A maximum if you want your battery pack to live longer
and not to charge the cells more than 4.15V x 22 = 91.3V maximum.

 

[KoZi_man]

Hello I do not have a motor sensor connected.
So it shows me the engine temperature still 0 degrees celsius

I have a ferrofluid in the engine.

 

[icherouveim]

Hello I do not have a motor sensor connected.
So it shows me the engine temperature still 0 degrees celsius

I have a ferrofluid in the engine.

Hello again,

This is a big mistake, I have ferrofluid and TWO x hub sinks and my motor overheats after
15-20km when I am at the boost mode.
So if you have 100A X 79.2V = 7.920W peak power this is a lot of power for this motor without a temp sensor
connected you will burn it for sure!!

Also set Dischg cutoff not less than 66V, you are killing the battery if you get it down to 59V.

 

[notger]

No this is not going to work.
I had 14s pack, when it was empty it was 42-43V and the adaptto controller couldn't control the current from the PSU so it was charging too fast and the PSU was giving full power. I could charge properly only when my battery was at 60-70% and above.

Hi, thanks for your experience

Did you mod/set yourv Eaton to 43 Volts via programmer ?

So 60-70% of Charge would mean ~3,5Volts ber cell *14s = 49Volts ?

That would mean it would at least need 6 Volts difference 43-49 to make charge possible.

Any other ideas than connectin a high-power resistor between eaton and Adaptto to lower the supply voltage a bit ?


greets
Notger

 

[madin88]

Any other ideas than connectin a high-power resistor between eaton and Adaptto to lower the supply voltage a bit ?
greets
Notger

I believe a resistor in sereis would not help because the voltage after the resistor will be the same if there is no current flow.
This meas at the moment you connect the PSU, there will flow current into the battery.

But why do you think there will be a problem if you can set the PSU down to 43V?
Set LVC to 45V or 3V per cell for your 15s batt, don't touch it and it will always work!
btw: i would recomment to not discharge below 3,3V per cell if you put at least a bit of importance on cycle life :wink:

 

[notger]

But why do you think there will be a problem if you can set the PSU down to 43V?
Set LVC to 45V or 3V per cell for your 15s batt, don't touch it and it will always work!
btw: i would recomment to not discharge below 3,3V per cell if you put at least a bit of importance on cycle life :wink:

Its just an "inellectual" project until now.
cause i do not have a working Eaton right now (killed mine by modding around too much)

So i cannot test how much voltage difference the Adaptto needs PSU and LVC-Battery

according to @icherouveim s expereience it needs quite some volts at least

No this is not going to work.
I had 14s pack, when it was empty it was 42-43V and the adaptto controller couldn't control the current from the PSU so it was charging too fast and the PSU was giving full power. I could charge properly only when my battery was at 60-70% and above.

But probably i should just wait for my next eaton APR and test it then.

Still: any expereience/guess what will happen if PSUvoltage would be higher than dicharged battery voltage ?

 

[madin88]

Still: any expereience/guess what will happen if PSUvoltage would be higher than dicharged battery voltage ?

The PSU will push the maximum current into the battery until battery voltage going to be similar as the PSU voltage. Than it will enter CV mode and current will get lower. This will happen even if "charge mode" isn't turned on.
I don't know what happens after that and if the controller would ever start the charging process.

btw: if you don't have bought a new PSU yet than take a look at the Eaton APR-48 ES. It can be programmed down to 24V at 40A regarding user reports.
2000W and 96% ETA sounds great as well.

 

[notger]

Still: any expereience/guess what will happen if PSUvoltage would be higher than dicharged battery voltage ?

The PSU will push the maximum current into the battery until battery voltage going to be similar as the PSU voltage. Than it will enter CV mode and current will get lower. This will happen even if "charge mode" isn't turned on.
I don't know what happens after that and if the controller would ever start the charging process.

btw: if you don't have bought a new PSU yet than take a look at the Eaton APR-48 ES. It can be programmed down to 24V at 40A regarding user reports.
2000W and 96% ETA sounds great as well.

Ok, that does actually not sound too bad, it it will not cause any damage on teh adaptto.

Cause Pushing 40A (~APR'S maximum) into my 15s10p with VTC5 would be no Problem for the cells
Makita is torturing its 5s2p VTC pack with 9A chargers

And lets say i would really ever discharge my battery to 2,5V per cell = 37,5 Volts
The PSU will quickly rise the batteries voltage to above 45 volts.

From there on i could charge via adapttos charge-mode?

How does that sound ?

 

[madin88]

And lets say i would really ever discharge my battery to 2,5V per cell = 37,5 Volts
The PSU will quickly rise the batteries voltage to above 45 volts.

From there on i could charge via adapttos charge-mode?

How does that sound ?

If your battery got discharged to 37,5V, the voltage on the PSU will be ALWAYS higher as battery voltage. The PSU could bring it up to lets say 44,9V, but not to the 45V.
I don't know if Adaptto charge-mode would work if there are not at least 2-3 V differnce. Try it out.

btw: if the PSU voltage is higher the current would flow through the diodes (which are inside the Mosfet's) into the battery. That happens even if the controller is turned off. The controller has no control over the current which could be dangerous, and pushing 40A even into 10P at 2,5V cannot be good. The cells should be brought slowly up with low current above 3V or something like that.

whats the problem if you set LVC to 3V per cell? It would be anyway still way too low!

 

[notger]

whats the problem if you set LVC to 3V per cell? It would be anyway still way too low!

But im talking about 18650 vtc5 cells no lipos.

 

[icherouveim]

No this is not going to work.
I had 14s pack, when it was empty it was 42-43V and the adaptto controller couldn't control the current from the PSU so it was charging too fast and the PSU was giving full power. I could charge properly only when my battery was at 60-70% and above.

Hi, thanks for your experience

Did you mod/set yourv Eaton to 43 Volts via programmer ?

So 60-70% of Charge would mean ~3,5Volts ber cell *14s = 49Volts ?

That would mean it would at least need 6 Volts difference 43-49 to make charge possible.

Any other ideas than connectin a high-power resistor between eaton and Adaptto to lower the supply voltage a bit ?


greets
Notger

Hello,
Yes I had it programmed at 43V.
I suggest you not to charge too fast because your cells will die very quickly. When I'm not on hurry I charge overnight with a fanless 280W charger.

I think its better if you buy a charger that can be programmed at a lower voltage, even if you set your cells at 3V x 15 = 45V it's not going to work. as I remember it has to be more. finally I've built a 72V pack and now its fine.

 

[Allex]

Just set your Eaton to low amps, suggested 0,5-0,7C
So when you battery is lower than 43V and adaptto is unable to control the current, Eaton will only spit out 0,5C(and you dont want to charge your pack faster than 0,5C anyway) to the battery making it safe to charge.
If you have 14S battery and drain them to 2,5V per cell its 35V and the eaton will only dump 0,5C into the cells until you reach 43V, after that Adaptto will take control over your current(A) values.

If I remember correctly, Tesla is using a technique - charge the cell very fast when it has low voltage and then slowly decrease the current when the voltage/temperature is increasing.

 

[croydon]

any news allex from adaptto new max e comes out?

 

[notger]

any news allex from adaptto new max e comes out?

I actually doubt a bit that this will still happen ?

 

[Allex]

New controllers from Russia will come out, but dont hold your breath waiting.

 

[notger]

New controllers from Russia will come out, but dont hold your breath waiting.

Puuuuuuhhhhh

..... breath out

From Russia, yes, but also from adaptto ?

See ->https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=75494
(Not Sine or Foc now, but still a beauty)

According to Adaptto:
I'm not up-to Date --> how would a repair-service work right now ?
sending it right to Russia again, waiting for weeks and hopefully getting it back repaired then?
Or are Services pause right now ?