Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[Offroader]

The newer firmware changed the way the 10 k motor temp sensor reads. It will sit at 32 f until the motor gets warm. Then jump to around 82 f and then start to read fairly accurate as far as I can tell. Although I have never been able to get the cromotor very hot riding on the streets. I think you are fine. Just ride it around and see if you see the same things. The older firmware was very accurate with the temp sensor. Hopefully they will remedy this soon. However at low temps, I don't think it's a big deal.
Cheers, Brake

You are right,

I had a 10K NTC laying around so I stuck it into the halls connector on pin 4 & 5 like crea2k posted a picture of.

It was still on 82, then I took my heat gun and heated it and it started to read about 90's and up. It also didn't matter which way the temp sensor was inserted in pin 4 & 5.

Kind of weird that they just don't have it read normally, I mean it is simple resistance measurement, why it doesn't work below 82 is odd.

Hopefully it reads accurate. It will weird to actually use Fahrenheit as I always used Celsius.

I certainly don't want to crack open my cromotor just to change the temp probe, but I guess if I ever have it open I will change it.

I find that opening the cromotor is hard on the bearings. It is also easy to damage the wires when putting it back together. You can also potentially crack the magnets when pushing out the stator, as I have done. There are probably many other things you can break by opening the motor even if you are careful. The stator lots of times pushes out unevenly and pushes really hard against the magnets.

 

[Allex]

Yup I have an on/off switch on the display wire(red wire) work very good.
You don't have to slide out the stator to place the thermistor, just one motor cover, the one on the disc brake side.

 

[Offroader]

Yup I have an on/off switch on the display wire(red wire) work very good.
You don't have to slide out the stator to place the thermistor, just one motor cover, the one on the disc brake side.

Do you think this is better than just putting the on/off switch to signal wire on throttle? I don't think I'm ready to splice into my brand new display wires.

 

[Allex]

For me it is more intuitive that way, because when I twist the key, the screen goes off.
I removed the round plastic connector on the grey display cable because it was to big for internal placement in my frame. This way I did not need to splice the cable, just wired a switch on the end of the cables.

 

[crea2k]

I just used something similar to this, it is inserted into the red wire to the display. I just unscrewed the plug from the end of the controller, unsoldered the red wire, soldered on a longer red wire and ran that to the switch and then the other end soldered to the original display wire. When you turn the switch off it turns the display off, which in turn turns the throttle etc off too.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ignition-Switch-Electric-Bike-Bicycle-Security-Keys-Lock-Black-Green-/360651846739?pt=UK_SportGoods_CyclAcces_RL&hash=item53f8867453

You can always put a kill switch like this inline with your throttle :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lanyard-Tether-Cut-Off-Switch-For-ATV-Quad-Scooter-Pull-To-Stop-Engine-/201049326732?pt=UK_CartsParts_Vehicles_ATVQuad_Trike_Parts_Accessories_SM&hash=item2ecf79448c

or if you have a domino throttle like mine, just wire the microswitch at the zero throttle position to the ebrake / regen, so when you let go of the throttle the brake comes on.

 

[Stealthbombed76]

Try to change the wires to the temp-sensor so you just swap with minus and plus.... If you get a better reading. Or try with another sensor.. If the sensor has got too hot before the sensor can give you wrong reading...
And ofcause depending on where the sensor is...
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__42825__7mm_AS150_Anti_Spark_Self_Insulating_Gold_Bullet_Connector_2_Pairs_.html
Has any try this out??

 

[madin88]

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__42825__7mm_AS150_Anti_Spark_Self_Insulating_Gold_Bullet_Connector_2_Pairs_.html
Has any try this out??

yes i have. the resistor did not hold the precharge current (tested with Max-E, 90V).
It depends on battery voltage and capacitance of controller caps if they will hold or not. Maybe they work with the Mini-E up to 90V or more, but normally they are made for RC model controllers and they have very little capacitance and max 60V so much lower stress on the resistor.

If you want some really good antispark connectors, look for "Jeti antispark" Bullets at some RC model shops. They offer 4mm. 5,5mm and 8mm and they have a NTC resistor which is better for precharging.
here is a thread: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=54138

 

[cruddbucket]

Hey guys, I installed Max-e a few days ago and have it up and running. I have a problem though, which might just be operator error, but if someone could have a look at my settings and suggest a fix that would be awesome.

The issue is I am not getting to max speed, as set in the power profile. For example, I conducted a test in normal power mode, where speed limit is 94km/hr, and I only reached 58.5km/hr on flat road. No matter what the speed setting above 60km, just can't reach it.. I also compared the speed with phone GPS speedometer, and results were very similar - so the wheel diam/pole ratio is set ok.

My motor is Crystalite TC80. Batteries are Zippy 20S 8Ah

I also tried in boost mode, but had the same issue (not getting past 60km/hr), and after 4km trip motor was extremely hot and the smell of winding insulation was not good either ha. I installed the KTY83 sensor provided, but have not been able to get a reading at all, despite changing polarity too. That's another problem on it's own though.

Thanks
Luke

 

[crea2k]

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__42825__7mm_AS150_Anti_Spark_Self_Insulating_Gold_Bullet_Connector_2_Pairs_.html
Has any try this out??

yes i have. the resistor did not hold the precharge current (tested with Max-E, 90V).
It depends on battery voltage and capacitance of controller caps if they will hold or not. Maybe they work with the Mini-E up to 90V or more, but normally they are made for RC model controllers and they have very little capacitance and max 60V so much lower stress on the resistor.

If you want some really good antispark connectors, look for "Jeti antispark" Bullets at some RC model shops. They offer 4mm. 5,5mm and 8mm and they have a NTC resistor which is better for precharging.
here is a thread: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=54138

The best way is what Allex and I have and thats a circuit breaker, iv got two, one that I use as a circuit breaker and the other that is used as a switch, they are both DC circuit breakers that are anti arc, so I get no sparks at all.

 

[Allex]

Crudd:
We need more pictures.
What timings and angles do you have under advanced setting? What OVS setting? You say the motor is getting hot, this means that autodetect did not work perfectly. Might need to tune that manually.
Why do you have acceleration limiter in the profile menu? You have Acc: 63 in boost mode, remove that to ---

The controller have a lot of settings to tune before you get everything going. Auto detect does not work on all motors. Probably time for me to do a video tutorial on how to set this thing up properly.

 

[crea2k]

cruddbucket , the speed limit is the max speed allowable, it isnt the speed it will actually reach, it depends on how much voltage and amps you are pushing into the motor for it to actually reach that speed. If you go into advanced and change the OVS setting, this is the field weakening, it makes quite a bit of difference to the max speed, but you just sacrifice motor efficiency in the process, so it will eat more power and might heat up a bit. If I want to gun it down roads at car speeds I set it to 7 and it maxes out at about 65-70mph , if I leave it off or set it to 1 or 2 it get me to between 40-50.

 

[ridethelightning]

@crudd
better get the motor settings right as allex suggested first. using the bike without the right settings could make the motor very hot.

 

[Offroader]

I notice you guys are using a lot of phase amps. Is this really not a problem using 300 phase amps?

On my old controller I think I only used a max of 150 phase amps.

Is this because there is no "block time" on this controller and you need to set this higher?

 

[Allex]

I feel that you need to have 2.5x phase amps to DC amps to wake it up. More than that will make it even faster of the line but motor will overheat faster.
Max-e will easily do 700 Phase amps but You will worm up the motor pretty fast

 

[xenodius]

I feel that you need to have 2.5x phase amps to DC amps to wake it up. More than that will make it even faster of the line but motor will overheat faster.
Max-e will easily do 700 Phase amps but You will worm up the motor pretty fast

Whaaaaa? 700 phase is insane. Do you worry about your axle?

 

[Allex]

I only use 400Amps on my normal commutes, I have good clamps with no rocking whatsoever, the axle hold up just fine

 

[crea2k]

The most iv done on mine is 350 so far and that was insane, 400 would be mental :-D . The controller wasn't even overly hot after a 35 mile ride with it set to 300, I think it was only getting to about 100-150 F , the most iv ever seen the motor is 130 F .

 

[cruddbucket]

Crudd:
We need more pictures.
What timings and angles do you have under advanced setting? What OVS setting? You say the motor is getting hot, this means that autodetect did not work perfectly. Might need to tune that manually.
Why do you have acceleration limiter in the profile menu? You have Acc: 63 in boost mode, remove that to ---

The controller have a lot of settings to tune before you get everything going. Auto detect does not work on all motors. Probably time for me to do a video tutorial on how to set this thing up properly.

Thanks for taking a look Allex - here are motor settings in Advanced. A video on how to setup manually would be super helpful, especially for a noob like me.

Health monitor:

Advanced setup:

 

[Offroader]

Finally hooked everything up and went for a test ride.

The first things I noticed is how silent the bike runs.

The other thing I noticed is the bike is ridiculously slow, in both acceleration, low end power, and top speed.

So I started to up the battery and phase amps to what my Lyen 18fet was (60 battery ~140 phase), still not even close to the power that had.

The issue I think is the Lyen 18fet has what is called "block time", for those who do not know and I only learned this recently, this allows the controller to run unlimited phase amps for 10 seconds, as that is what I had mine set to on default. This must be the reason why the Lyen 18fet is so much more powerful.

I upped my phase amps to 300, and it was better but still not close to the Lyen 18fet. I'm thinking to get what my Lyen 18fet had in power I'm going to have to turn phase amps to 400, maybe even 500 or higher. I can't have any fun with how weak the bike is now. I just hope I can get it to at least the power of my Lyen 18fet.

The other issue is top speed, my bike is now slower at only 32MPH instead of 38MPH. Some discrepancy could be in the wheel size but it feels slower. I thought this thing also had OVS and would bring me to 50MPH. Any idea on what is limiting my top speed?

Another issue is the voltage shows on the main screen as only two digits, so say 68 volts. Is there a way to get a decimal here so I can read say 68.8 volts. I hope there is a way to change this.

Thanks, any help is appreciated.

 

[crea2k]

What have you got ovs set to offroader ?, it's in advanced settings, when I set mine to 7 it's like a motorbike.

 

[Brake]

Offroader what battery are you running? I know that my battery is my limiting factor.

 

[Offroader]

I never touched the OVS setting. Is it defaulted off? I think from memory it may be set to 000 or something. But there are so many adjustments with similar names, I'd have to look again tomorrow.

What concerns me if OVS is defaulted off, shouldn't I get the same top speed as my old controller?

I think I have my battery set to 60amps. But that should give me about 4000watts, which was about what I was pushing with my old controller.

I guess there is no way to have the voltage display at least one decimal value? Doesn't this bother any of you guys as you can't easily assess the battery voltage precisely?

 

[sacko]

It is default off.

I also had the same problem that it was slower than my infineon but have used OVS to get it back to my existing speeds.

I think I am at around OVS 4 now.

The battery voltage doesn't really bother me, if anything I prefer the battery percentage gauge and I can check cell voltage if needed once I connect up the BMS.

Does anyone know if it is possible to change the temp reading from Fahrenheit to Celsius?

 

[broke]

It is default off.

I also had the same problem that it was slower than my infineon but have used OVS to get it back to my existing speeds.

I think I am at around OVS 4 now.

The battery voltage doesn't really bother me, if anything I prefer the battery percentage gauge and I can check cell voltage if needed once I connect up the BMS.

Does anyone know if it is possible to change the temp reading from Fahrenheit to Celsius?

Yep change from MPH to KPH

 

[Offroader]

It is default off.

I also had the same problem that it was slower than my infineon but have used OVS to get it back to my existing speeds.

I think I am at around OVS 4 now.

The battery voltage doesn't really bother me, if anything I prefer the battery percentage gauge and I can check cell voltage if needed once I connect up the BMS.

Does anyone know if it is possible to change the temp reading from Fahrenheit to Celsius?

sacko what concerns me is that we shouldn't have to use OVS to get our original speeds back. This makes me think that we are running the motor inefficiently.

Maybe there is some other setting that needs to be changed? Like PWR or IND.

If my Lyen 18fet controller was able to hit 38-40MPH and it didn't have OVS. Why do I now have to use OVS and run my motor inefficiently to get that same 38-40MPH speed.

Something doesn't add up.

I think the Temp gauge option of F or C (independent of MPH,KPH) and Voltage display should be considered for future updates, I would like the option to also display the lowest Lipo cell on the main screen so we don't have to switch to the BMS screen to read what the lowest cell is.