Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

OVS is OFF per default.
If you want to achieve same speeds as with Infineon you have to dial it to around 1-2, don't worry it will be just as Efficient as infineon.
I would also like to have decimal value on the voltage, but I am pretty used to it now so don’t think about it that much.

Offroader I had exact same feeling about the controller from my previous 18Fet
The bike felt slow and acceleration just was not there.
There are two things to this:
You need proper settings
Two, (it is fixable) it will feel slower off start because of the Torque throttle instead of the Speed throttle(Infineon) combined with phase currents, where Infineon could spit out way more current that it is programmed to do during the first second. This is why it is so jerky/aggressive from the initial twist and then it tapers off. This is one of the things that make you think it’s more powerful.

So number one to do is settings (Assuming Angle corr1 and Ind timing is tuned right during Autosetup):
PWR1, somewhere +1,5-2,5 (Acceleration)
OVS 2-4 (top speed)

Number two, if you really want it to shoot similar to Infinion(this will heat up the motor faster)
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61183&p=930933&hilit=wheelie#p930933

Bucket, your settings seems fine, Try do tune the above. What I also heard is that Crown motors could be a pain to tune. People should by better motors, like cro.
 
Thanks Alex, I'll play around tomorrow. I actually just got everything hooked up tonight and only took it for a quick drive in the night.

Just got my charger all soldered up and can't wait to try charging at 3000 watts tomorrow morning.

There is many options to play with and I'm sure everything will be worked out.

Too bad I can't fall asleep now because I can't wait for tomorrow to play around with everything.

Could you explain this setting better.

PWR1, somewhere +1,5-2,5 (Acceleration)

It says in the manual:

PWR timing affects power consumption (and efficiency) of the motor under load. Set PWR timing (usually one of these values: 0.17 for high-speed motors, 0.3-0.5 for average and 0.7-1.2 for slow motors), to achieve maximum acceleration when you mash the throttle at cruising speed.


What should I set it for?
 
PWR impacts on the torque during acceleration. Try to experiment with the value.
Hold about 20-30mph and hit WOT.
Adjust it from 0,5 to 1,5 and do the same thing again. Then same with 2.5
Fine tune those figures until you reach maximum torque during your acceleration.
 
lol night testing is a dangerous pass time, the only times I have shorted out stuff has been at night when half asleep :D
 
Offroader said:
I never touched the OVS setting. Is it defaulted off? I think from memory it may be set to 000 or something. But there are so many adjustments with similar names, I'd have to look again tomorrow.

What concerns me if OVS is defaulted off, shouldn't I get the same top speed as my old controller?

I think I have my battery set to 60amps. But that should give me about 4000watts, which was about what I was pushing with my old controller.

I guess there is no way to have the voltage display at least one decimal value? Doesn't this bother any of you guys as you can't easily assess the battery voltage precisely?

Allex, that's awesome-- I have some clamping torque arms that Brake made for me and they're pretty fantastic but I hesitate to push it that hard... so much torque already. When my last torque arms failed I actually bent the axle a few degrees and I would definitely want to replace it before I push 700.

If you set it to run trap like your old controller your top speed will increase slightly. But what you should actually do is use OVS and keep it on sine. With the latest locked firmware, OVS will net you a max 25% higher-- 40mph in your case. Before that limit was established I got up to ~75% faster than base speed-- from 42mph to 72 mph! It was on a 3-4% downgrade, but I could have hit that on the flat with unlocked firmware and higher current settings.

I don't see the advantage in the extra decimal, but then again I'm using an A123 pack.
 
Just an update on using it for my ride today. Well, I guess I went from hating it to liking it.

At first the throttle and power just plain sucked. I got used to my old throttle and controller which had lots of power from the start. After messing with the throttle settings and turning up OVS, the bike started to have some power. I had to move my throttle voltage to about 1 volt to 4 volts for it to feel right, it seems messing with this really changes the feel.

After learning the new throttle, I think I may prefer it better. I seem to have more control over the bike now. This was especially noticeably when riding up stairs, normally riding up stairs is very jerky and the tire bangs hard on each step making a loud noise. Now when I climb stairs it is just like riding up a steep hill, it does it so smoothly no bouncing around on each step and much more quiet.

Turning the OVS up to 6 the bike now reaches 47MPH, from my old 38MPH. This makes driving on the street and keeping up with traffic so much better. I actually enjoy riding on the street now. Crazy I need 47MPH top speed to deal with city traffic which is 35MPH.

A big reason I wanted to upgrade was because of the fast charging, and boy does this thing charge fast. I'm charging at 2800 watts. This will charge my pack in like 30-40 minutes. This is just absurdly fast for a large pack that I have which is ~2300 watts. This is awesome because I can ride home, take a 45 minute break and eat, then be ready for another bike ride.

I like the reverse function, makes moving my 130lbs ebike easy.

What I don't like is the display is rather hard to see during the day with direct sunglight. What makes it worse is there is a plastic clear covering that covers the display wasn't put on flat and has valleys in it which distorts it somewhat. The cycle analyst display was much easier to read and had better clarity.

Do any of you find the display hard to read in direct sunlight and is your plastic cover also not flat and bunched up in areas? It seems the plastic cover was too big to fit inside the plastic housing. I wish I could peel it off, cut a little off, and try and push it back on flat.



 
I think the firmware locked the phase amps to around 368. I can't turn mine higher than this number. Can anyone confirm if this is the case?
 
I love the charging too, its bad ass how fast it charges it. Mine will go up to 125 battery 325 phase when maxed out. I don't think this is firmware related otherwise mine would be the same as yours, I think it measures the battery and works out the max current from that, either that or its based on the watt hour etc that you have inputted for the pack.
 
Nice charge surge there!
Yeah, version 7 could let you use 400 phase amps, newer versions have 350, so you are fine.
You could increase screen contrast and activate screen heating as well when you enter Firmware flash mode. Maybe you can adjust it so you could see better during sunlight.
Do you have 20s? 47 seems a bit low to me. You should see about 50 at ovs 4 but this could be because of the firmare 9. I still use 7.
 
I'm running 18s with a 17" tire, so I used to max out about 38MPH, now I can get as high as 50MPH in the right conditions, but usually it stays on 47MPH.

47MPH seems so much faster than my old top speed of 38MPH. I really love it because you can keep up and go faster than most cars in the city.

I'm pushing about 6K watts now. I personally like to keep my speed/power low for safety because I drive pretty crazy and it's one of the few things I can do to limit myself.

I'm really liking this controller more, I like the way the bike runs quiet. It feels so much different riding in the woods when there is no sound from the motor. You do lose some of that sound feedback you get from the motor.

The other thing is the controller gets super hot when charging at 2800 watts (57 amps). I think the temp gauge read 150F.
 
yes. i often have to remind myself that there is normaly nothing that silent on the roads going 50mph, and so im extra careful about pedestrians and other vehicles that just have no idea you are coming that fast...
 
Allex have you ever seen this before ?. The controller MOSFET temperature is all over the place, when riding the bike the temperature gauge sometimes jumps from zero to full and the over temperature kicks in for a second . I don't think it's the motor sensor causing it as if I turn it off it still does it. If I look at the stats screen the temperature can jump from 60F up to 200F in 1 second .

http://youtu.be/BplgDmLqdX0
 
Been thinking a long time how to make the cooling more better..So here's my answer.. Seem's like many like to drill holes to the side..so!
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0135.JPG
    DSC_0135.JPG
    87.5 KB · Views: 1,002
  • DSC_0137.JPG
    DSC_0137.JPG
    78.8 KB · Views: 1,002
crea2k said:
Allex have you ever seen this before ?. The controller MOSFET temperature is all over the place, when riding the bike the temperature gauge sometimes jumps from zero to full and the over temperature kicks in for a second . I don't think it's the motor sensor causing it as if I turn it off it still does it. If I look at the stats screen the temperature can jump from 60F up to 200F in 1 second .

http://youtu.be/BplgDmLqdX0

I can hear right away that your Hall's Aint correct. Finetune those pls first before you start tuning anything else.
 
How can you hear that they arnt correct ?, I was bumping the throttle up and down if thats what you mean, it passes autodetect just fine.
 
I thought that id subscribe to this thread. Soon ill be receiving my mini-e. I'm a hands on person who doesn't like reading instructions so im not sure if this controller is for me.
 
crea2k said:
The squealing noise if thats what you mean is my brake disk binding

You can hear a small (pounding) kind.. Even so if you see your temp is going up fast "too fast" the hall's aint correct..
 
Allex said:
How do you guys run in the traffic, what about police?

I just drive the bike in the street like it was a motorcycle. I think that I have not had any issues because I live in a big city, just too much traffic.

I ride by police all the time and they don't even look. The bicycle helmet probably also helps, although my bike is on the large side.

If you live in a big city the cops really can't do that much to be honest. Sometimes I think about living elsewhere, not as big of a city, I don't think I would feel comfortable riding the bike in other smaller cities or living out in very rural areas. First the cops are much tougher out in the country, in big cities they just don't care about an electric bike.

But driving at 50MPH now, it will be interesting what the police will do if they see me.
 
I have two settings for PWR

PWR and PWR1.

Does anyone know how these are different and which ones I should adjust?
 
Sorry crea2k, Dunno what that is.
Offroader, adjust PWR, PWR2 is for the reverse I believe, just read my above message regarding manual tuning.

Maiki, your holes should be bigger! :)
 
Back
Top