Iv just been out for a ride and its been fine, the only difference between now and earlier is it was really damp earlier as it'd just rained. I'm not sure if its water getting in the motor and playing havoc with the temp sensor but it shouldn't do as its covered in high temp silicone. It only seems to happen when I tear around on it, I'm not sure what the temperature limit is for the controller ?, as I have the temp limit for the motor set to 220F, but there doesn't appear to be a setting for the controller so I'm not sure what the shutdown temp is for it ?. If it carries on I think I'm going to fit some old slot CPU fans to the side of it to see if that helps with the heat transfer.
Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread
- Thread starter GCinDC
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Allex
100 MW
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61183&start=25#p918153
after I finish charging and unplug my power supply my controller stays in charging mode. I can't get it out of charging mode unless I unplug my controller from the battery and plug it back in.
is there anything I can do to get it out of charge mode.
is there anything I can do to get it out of charge mode.
Offroader, usually you press up or down , can't remember which to exit.
Allex thanks for that, that's pretty much what it is doing, but it can't possibly have water in it as its inside my frame box like yours is, but il take a look next week and put together a heatsink too, as it was fine this afternoon when I was giving it full throttle all the time, once the controller gets hot it seems to take a long time to cool down as the temp was even spiking in Eco once it got hot.
Allex thanks for that, that's pretty much what it is doing, but it can't possibly have water in it as its inside my frame box like yours is, but il take a look next week and put together a heatsink too, as it was fine this afternoon when I was giving it full throttle all the time, once the controller gets hot it seems to take a long time to cool down as the temp was even spiking in Eco once it got hot.
My Max-E has issues when it goes into charge mode. The up button stops working sometimes, sometimes other buttons don't work. If I continuously press them they may finally work. This is only in charge mode.
While charging, if I enter setup, some buttons stop working. But with enough pushing of buttons I can finally exit setup. Sometimes they work, sometimes they do not work. Most of the time though, they don't work in charge mode.
I wonder if this is a firmware issue because when not in charge mode everything works normally.
Is it even possible to stop charging when you have your power supply and coil connected? If I try and stop the charge it may stop it for a second but it restarts the charge immediately.
While charging, if I enter setup, some buttons stop working. But with enough pushing of buttons I can finally exit setup. Sometimes they work, sometimes they do not work. Most of the time though, they don't work in charge mode.
I wonder if this is a firmware issue because when not in charge mode everything works normally.
Is it even possible to stop charging when you have your power supply and coil connected? If I try and stop the charge it may stop it for a second but it restarts the charge immediately.
cruddbucket
100 µW
Thanks for your help guys, I experimented with the settings as suggested and it really made my bike come alive! I think the best adjustment was the throttle limits, I prefer the wild feeling 
ridethelightning
1 MW
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Offroader said:
re. the buttons not working, i have never had this happen, so not too sure about that.
im still using the early rc7b firmware so things may be different with the later versions.
what i have found re. charge mode is that the controller seems to automatically sense the coill/psu and go into charge mode.
when i turn the psu off again, it will go back into eco or boost or whatever its set in, even with the coil still connected.
i can drive off with the coil connected too but sometimes(happened once) i forgot to dissconnect coil and the bike got 50mt down the road and stopped, with "charge" on the screen, until i disconnected the coil.
another time i rode off fine for quite a while, when i noticed the regen had an unusual grumbling sound, id forgot to disengage the coil again...
i have my psu and coil permanantly installed on the bike now, with a switch on the neg charge lead between the coil and controller to disengage the coil.
I may have found a solution to get out of charge mode. It seems if I go directly into controller settings, charge settings, and shut it off it will turn off.
What I did was put on quick menu to go easily into reverse. If you try and shut it off on quick menu it doesn't shut it off, even though the option switches from OFF to ON.
However, I can't get out of charge mode by simply disconnecting the coil as others mentioned.
I think the quick menu is not programmed correctly for shutting the charger ON/OFF.
The buttons still don't work consistently when charging, but if I press them enough it seems to finally go through.
I also have the throttle cut out problem which was discussed here. My throttle stopped working twice yesterday when I was miles from my house, but luckily it started to work again seconds later. It would have sucked trying to pedal a 130lbs bike back home.
It seems that the problem could be the connector used for the throttle as others mentioned here having problems with it.
What I did was put on quick menu to go easily into reverse. If you try and shut it off on quick menu it doesn't shut it off, even though the option switches from OFF to ON.
However, I can't get out of charge mode by simply disconnecting the coil as others mentioned.
I think the quick menu is not programmed correctly for shutting the charger ON/OFF.
The buttons still don't work consistently when charging, but if I press them enough it seems to finally go through.
I also have the throttle cut out problem which was discussed here. My throttle stopped working twice yesterday when I was miles from my house, but luckily it started to work again seconds later. It would have sucked trying to pedal a 130lbs bike back home.
It seems that the problem could be the connector used for the throttle as others mentioned here having problems with it.
ridethelightning
1 MW
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definately sounds like it could be a bad connection or short in the throttle line somewhere..
Offroader said:
I got stopped by a police officer while I was going 53. Up an 8% grade. On the interstate. At first he was concerned that I didn't have any mirrors or turn-signals, and thought that was illegal... then he realized it was a bicycle, not registered, and that I was going freaky fast. He was really nice, sat in his car for a while, then warned me for "speeding" (I was below the speed limit of 55) and sent me on my way, asking that I not ride more than 20mph in the future.
He understood, however, that the part of the interstate we were on did not have enough shoulder for me to safely ride out of traffic, and that riding at traffic speed was the safer alternative. It was actually the only part of my tween-cities journey where I went over ~30mph.
I'm surprised Alex asked about the police. I thought in Sweden they all run from police, like that Ghost Rider guy.
Quick question, I could have sworn there was a wiring diagram for 22s for the BMS. I looked back through the posts but can't find it.
Does anyone know where or have a link to a 22s setup?
Thanks
Quick question, I could have sworn there was a wiring diagram for 22s for the BMS. I looked back through the posts but can't find it.
Does anyone know where or have a link to a 22s setup?
Thanks
ridethelightning
1 MW
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is this what you were after?
http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Felectrotransport.ru%2Fussr%2Findex.php%253FPHPSESSID%253Di5ipar1tkubtkjkifbbag29hl4%2526action%253Ddlattach%253Btopic%253D15269.0%253Battach%253D110768&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fendless-sphere.com%2Fforums%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ff%3D2%26t%3D61183&h=321&w=371&tbnid=l7Bhny42ABfZDM%3A&zoom=1&docid=CFem7fKVT8sS5M&ei=z4hEVOSsNszt8gXckILoBA&tbm=isch&ved=0CCEQMygEMAQ&iact=rc&uact=3&dur=1050&page=1&start=0&ndsp=18
i knowthis is only 14s but it just the same for 22s, just more of it..
http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Felectrotransport.ru%2Fussr%2Findex.php%253FPHPSESSID%253Di5ipar1tkubtkjkifbbag29hl4%2526action%253Ddlattach%253Btopic%253D15269.0%253Battach%253D110768&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fendless-sphere.com%2Fforums%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ff%3D2%26t%3D61183&h=321&w=371&tbnid=l7Bhny42ABfZDM%3A&zoom=1&docid=CFem7fKVT8sS5M&ei=z4hEVOSsNszt8gXckILoBA&tbm=isch&ved=0CCEQMygEMAQ&iact=rc&uact=3&dur=1050&page=1&start=0&ndsp=18
i knowthis is only 14s but it just the same for 22s, just more of it..
ridethelightning said:
Thanks for posting. Actually, I thought there was a better version. That is kind of hard to understand to be honest.
Somehow I thought there was a trick for 22s where you had to split connections on the last two boards.
I'm thinking maybe I saw this on the Russian forum.
I wanted to add that I decreased my pack size from 18s8p to 18s7p, about 12.5% smaller pack, but I seem to be getting a 15-20% range increase for the same areas I've been riding even though my max watts increased from 4300 to 5500. Possibly even more as it shows my peak at 6300.
My motor temps are also much lower, but part of this could be the cooler weather. But I haven't had the motor close to overheating, where I had to continuously take breaks with my old controller.
I wonder why I get such an increase in range. I think maybe a couple of reasons. The throttle makes it much easier to drive slow compared to my old throttle that had like full power right from the start. I still don't hardly pedal, but maybe slightly more. But I also accelerate more slowly and controlled now.
Even with the higher watts I am running, the bike doesn't have as much torque at lower speeds. I am not sure if this is because of the phase amps limit. I am also not sure how this "block time" for unlimited current for 10 seconds affected things.
My old controller I had 65 battery 140 phase amps.
My new controller I have like 75 battery 360 phase amps.
My old controller had more torque, especially for hill climbing. This all has to be the block time allowing full power to the motor and not being constrained by the 65 battery 140 phase amps. What unlimited power means I don't know, someone said what ever it can pull form the battery. The Max-E blocks these features and limits what can be pulled.
Have any of you experienced a big range increase with the Max-E?
My motor temps are also much lower, but part of this could be the cooler weather. But I haven't had the motor close to overheating, where I had to continuously take breaks with my old controller.
I wonder why I get such an increase in range. I think maybe a couple of reasons. The throttle makes it much easier to drive slow compared to my old throttle that had like full power right from the start. I still don't hardly pedal, but maybe slightly more. But I also accelerate more slowly and controlled now.
Even with the higher watts I am running, the bike doesn't have as much torque at lower speeds. I am not sure if this is because of the phase amps limit. I am also not sure how this "block time" for unlimited current for 10 seconds affected things.
My old controller I had 65 battery 140 phase amps.
My new controller I have like 75 battery 360 phase amps.
My old controller had more torque, especially for hill climbing. This all has to be the block time allowing full power to the motor and not being constrained by the 65 battery 140 phase amps. What unlimited power means I don't know, someone said what ever it can pull form the battery. The Max-E blocks these features and limits what can be pulled.
Have any of you experienced a big range increase with the Max-E?
ridethelightning
1 MW
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i think there is another bms diagram, its pretty much the same, just bigger i think.
ill try hunting it down on the russian forum..
re. increased range, id say the high power at low revs with the previous controller would cause a lot of wasted power when the motor just cant get going fast enough to take up the current.
thats possibly why your motor (and controller?)temps are lower too with the max-e.
also, the max-e gives the possibility to adjust the settings for each specific motor, where the old controller was a one size fits all, and probably not running at optimum efficiency for the motor.
i havnt had reason to do so, but i think there would be a way to get high torque startups with the max-e, maybe turn off the smooth start or something, and set the amps real high.
i just got back from a ride...... in boost, with 120A battery and 300A phase at 85v or so,ovs-5, i shot up the most ridiculously steep hill i know at like 70kph! felt like taking off in an aeroplane
(edit) couldnt find the 22s diagram, maybe there never was one? im running 22s, and i just wired it up as on the 14s diagram, there wansnt any 'tricks' at the last board.
just make sure that at each lot of 4 cells, you start with the ground then lowest cell farthest away from the cable
ill try hunting it down on the russian forum..
re. increased range, id say the high power at low revs with the previous controller would cause a lot of wasted power when the motor just cant get going fast enough to take up the current.
thats possibly why your motor (and controller?)temps are lower too with the max-e.
also, the max-e gives the possibility to adjust the settings for each specific motor, where the old controller was a one size fits all, and probably not running at optimum efficiency for the motor.
i havnt had reason to do so, but i think there would be a way to get high torque startups with the max-e, maybe turn off the smooth start or something, and set the amps real high.
i just got back from a ride...... in boost, with 120A battery and 300A phase at 85v or so,ovs-5, i shot up the most ridiculously steep hill i know at like 70kph! felt like taking off in an aeroplane
(edit) couldnt find the 22s diagram, maybe there never was one? im running 22s, and i just wired it up as on the 14s diagram, there wansnt any 'tricks' at the last board.
just make sure that at each lot of 4 cells, you start with the ground then lowest cell farthest away from the cable
GCinDC
100 MW
do you have 20s now? all 4s packs? just want to add a 2s one?Offroader said:
I am using 6s-6s-6s-4s.
I decided to draw something similar to the 5s pack diagram made on the original page. I'm not sure if you made that GCinDC.
Can you guys please critique it and let me know if it looks good. I drew it up based on how the 5s pack pattern was.
I of course will double check individual cell voltage to make sure they are in proper order before connecting.
Please also take a look at cell 12 and if that looks correct. But if you can look at each cell to make sure everything looks fine.
Thanks a lot!
I decided to draw something similar to the 5s pack diagram made on the original page. I'm not sure if you made that GCinDC.
Can you guys please critique it and let me know if it looks good. I drew it up based on how the 5s pack pattern was.
I of course will double check individual cell voltage to make sure they are in proper order before connecting.
Please also take a look at cell 12 and if that looks correct. But if you can look at each cell to make sure everything looks fine.
Thanks a lot!
GCinDC
100 MW
looks right to me! i'd get a second opinion before doing it, just to be sure. nice work.
sacko
10 kW
Do I have to reset the stats every time I charge the battery to get the fuel % back to 100%?
I currently do not use the charging capability of the Adaptto but use a bulk charger, if that makes a difference.
I currently do not use the charging capability of the Adaptto but use a bulk charger, if that makes a difference.
Brake
100 W
Looks right to me too. Easy enough to check with your meter to be sure after you get it made up and before plugging in.
Brake
100 W
Hey Xenodius. Great story about getting pulled over. Soooooo funny. Bet that cop didn't even know what to do. Maybe it's time for mirrors and turn signals. Lol
Just got my bms hooked up. Testing today. Just did 6 or so consecutive 50 mph speed runs. It is so nice to finally know what the batteries are really doing. Loving this thing more and more.
Cheers
Just got my bms hooked up. Testing today. Just did 6 or so consecutive 50 mph speed runs. It is so nice to finally know what the batteries are really doing. Loving this thing more and more.
Cheers
I figured out what was up with mine, well I think so anyway, as I rode it 35 miles yesterday and didnt have any problems. It seems to be overheating the controller because I have been a bit throttle happy I think with it cranked up too high, so iv ordered a couple of heatsinks and am going to attach that to the side of the controller like others have done. I think it overheats because its inside the metal battery box, where as most people on here have it attached to the bottom of their frame to get the airflow round it. Iv got foam inbetween the controller and the box at the moment, so will remove that, so it uses the box as a added heatsink I think, and put a heatsink pad between the box and controller instead.
ridethelightning
1 MW
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- Jul 21, 2013
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heat is the worst thing for batteries too.
id consider getting some airflow through the box too...
could you bolt the controller with the fets side stuck to the box with conduction glue, and put the fins on the outside of the box(also with glue) right where the controller is?
id consider getting some airflow through the box too...
could you bolt the controller with the fets side stuck to the box with conduction glue, and put the fins on the outside of the box(also with glue) right where the controller is?
GCinDC
100 MW
sounds like a nice little oven. :lol:crea2k said:
anyone try this yet?
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