Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread
- Thread starter GCinDC
- Start date
GreenRoad
100 W
i measured 64,639A max. Adaptto mini 8) - between the suply Battery / Controller (batterycurrent)Rodney64 said:
Phase current i have to belive that what i set at the paramters - i have to mesure this in an special way.
Thats good - the current view at the adaptto display - is the real battery current - you get from the battery.
I like the adaptto current settings, because this values are true.
Compare to kelly it much better. Phase Current is there the peak current which you get out of the battery....
The settings of battery current are only the duration Current of the battery current.
Adaptto seems there be realy credible - but its also an difference between Block / Sine commutation.
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Paladin
100 W
Any news/progress/updates on that Micro-E?
Rodney64
100 kW
ridethelightning said:thanks G.EV
that explains things i think, i was running in boost mode with ovs 2 , 20s , max batt amps were up at 140 or something, and phase amps were high too
i must have been pushing it too hard, hence the max 7000 watt values i was getting in the stats.
iv since cut the batt amps to 60, ovs 0 and lowered the phase amps too.
the strangest thing happened when i was adjusting the boost mode in powermode profiles-
the batt amps value could be lowered but not increased again. ie, i went to 63 from 140, but could not go back again, even to 64????!
it was as if the right hand button was not working, but it was fine in the eco and normal modes
this is the weirdest thing iv seen yet. looks like its a bug to me... still on rc7b firmware.
i was sort of joking to myself that the mini-e's ghost was forcing me to lower its settings to a more comfortable level :lol:
When you changed controllers did you leave the max-e screen. It must have still retained the Max-e settings.
Doctorbass
100 GW
Today i tested for fun the max speed of the wheel with the max -E, 22s batt and my 5302 motor on a 20"... with the wheel off the ground.
I got 193km/h ( 2000+rpm) with only ovs set to 1 !! lol... yes.. for a 20" wheel!.. i just can't imagine wich it wold be speed on a 26" lol..
Look like the speed limit of my NYX bike will not be the voltage or OVS... but the max current it can send to the motor and at witch saturation this 5302 is..
Doc
I got 193km/h ( 2000+rpm) with only ovs set to 1 !! lol... yes.. for a 20" wheel!.. i just can't imagine wich it wold be speed on a 26" lol..
Look like the speed limit of my NYX bike will not be the voltage or OVS... but the max current it can send to the motor and at witch saturation this 5302 is..
Doc
zlagger
10 W
Setting up my Max-E and I ran into a problem when wiring the throttle.
I'm using a 1/2 twist with regen button. When I checked the Adaptto plug, brown & black wire gave me 5v. Unfortunately after connecting the throttle I see no voltage.
So I cut off the throttle and just checked the brown / black pair and see 0V.
Did I fry something?
I'm using a 1/2 twist with regen button. When I checked the Adaptto plug, brown & black wire gave me 5v. Unfortunately after connecting the throttle I see no voltage.
So I cut off the throttle and just checked the brown / black pair and see 0V.
Did I fry something?
zlagger
10 W
Thanks for the heads up. I'll check that out.
xenodius said:
zlagger
10 W
broke said:
What happened with yours?
zlagger
10 W
Damn I have double checked my wiring and it looks good.
I took the throttle wiring apart.
Adaptto side:
Brown - 5v
Black - ground
Blue - throttle signal
White - brake signal
Then we have the throttle side:
Red - 5v
Black - ground
White - throttle signal
Green & yellow are regen button
Here was the finished product. Red wire is paired with green in black shrink at bottom. Connected to brown.
I took the throttle wiring apart.
Adaptto side:
Brown - 5v
Black - ground
Blue - throttle signal
White - brake signal
Then we have the throttle side:
Red - 5v
Black - ground
White - throttle signal
Green & yellow are regen button
Here was the finished product. Red wire is paired with green in black shrink at bottom. Connected to brown.
zlagger
10 W
Real shitty part is that I had a new mini-e in a box. Thought it might be a bad display so I swapped in the minis.
Same issue. No 5V power. Now I may have both the mini & max display messed up
Same issue. No 5V power. Now I may have both the mini & max display messed up
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
+1
always err on the safe side and only stuff about with throttle wiring while in the throttle limits screen.
i nearly learned that the hard way....when i reconnected the +5v while the gnd wasnt connected and the bike was gonna take off!!
still not quite sure what happened, but always better to see the results before they happen, not when the bikes already shot off down the road without you :lol:
no the screen was the original screen that came with the mini-e, my max-e still has its own screen.
and anyway, i thought the settings are only whats in the controller box, ie. not recorded in the screen, the screen just tells you whats going on in the controller?
really weird ,that incident, iv now tamed it down, but it wont go back up again. its not the firmware either, as its the old version, and shouldnt limit the currrent like that i thought.
would be great if adaptto stepped in now and explainded whats going on...
always err on the safe side and only stuff about with throttle wiring while in the throttle limits screen.
i nearly learned that the hard way....when i reconnected the +5v while the gnd wasnt connected and the bike was gonna take off!!
still not quite sure what happened, but always better to see the results before they happen, not when the bikes already shot off down the road without you :lol:
Rodney64 said:ridethelightning said:thanks G.EV
that explains things i think, i was running in boost mode with ovs 2 , 20s , max batt amps were up at 140 or something, and phase amps were high too
i must have been pushing it too hard, hence the max 7000 watt values i was getting in the stats.
iv since cut the batt amps to 60, ovs 0 and lowered the phase amps too.
the strangest thing happened when i was adjusting the boost mode in powermode profiles-
the batt amps value could be lowered but not increased again. ie, i went to 63 from 140, but could not go back again, even to 64????!
it was as if the right hand button was not working, but it was fine in the eco and normal modes
this is the weirdest thing iv seen yet. looks like its a bug to me... still on rc7b firmware.
i was sort of joking to myself that the mini-e's ghost was forcing me to lower its settings to a more comfortable level :lol:
When you changed controllers did you leave the max-e screen. It must have still retained the Max-e settings.
no the screen was the original screen that came with the mini-e, my max-e still has its own screen.
and anyway, i thought the settings are only whats in the controller box, ie. not recorded in the screen, the screen just tells you whats going on in the controller?
really weird ,that incident, iv now tamed it down, but it wont go back up again. its not the firmware either, as its the old version, and shouldnt limit the currrent like that i thought.
would be great if adaptto stepped in now and explainded whats going on...
Allex
100 MW
That is true, the screen only shows what controller tells him to show.
All programming and settings are stored in the controller.
All programming and settings are stored in the controller.
Adaptto E-Drives Lab
100 W
zlagger said:
Dear Zlagger, I've emailed you the next steps for analysis which will help us to provide possible solutions.
ridethelightning said:thanks G.EV
that explains things i think, i was running in boost mode with ovs 2 , 20s , max batt amps were up at 140 or something, and phase amps were high too
i must have been pushing it too hard, hence the max 7000 watt values i was getting in the stats.
iv since cut the batt amps to 60, ovs 0 and lowered the phase amps too.
the strangest thing happened when i was adjusting the boost mode in powermode profiles-
the batt amps value could be lowered but not increased again. ie, i went to 63 from 140, but could not go back again, even to 64????!
it was as if the right hand button was not working, but it was fine in the eco and normal modes
this is the weirdest thing iv seen yet. looks like its a bug to me... still on rc7b firmware.
i was sort of joking to myself that the mini-e's ghost was forcing me to lower its settings to a more comfortable level :lol:
Dear Ridethelightning, first of all I would suggest you updating the firmware up to the latest version (RC9e).
Such amps limitation can be caused as a result of an initial incorrectly high value. Another reason could be the shunt value which varies from one controller to another. The indicators are calibrated according to the shunt value so may be you have an incorrect one (what value do you have actually?).
Also what is the serial number of your controller?
All the best!
zlagger
10 W
Strange day of troubleshooting..
I checked once more before heading to work.. Sure enough, no throttle signal shows in the calibration menu.
So I disconnected everything from the controller and came to work. I connected the controller to 30v from the bench top power supply, and the only other connection was the display.
After removing the display case, I checked the 5v hall supply. Meter reads 4.644V between Hall_5V & Hall_GND
Now what is really strange is that after connecting the throttle (while still on 30V bench power), I was able to read a good throttle and brake signal.
The strange part is that I just checked it on the bike this morning. There was no throttle or brake signal then. Only change was that I disconnected the battery, motor, thermistor, and hall wires. And moved to ONLY 30V bench power. Nothing else was connected.
So I'm not sure what is going on. It might be a bad connection in the cable with the 5v out for the throttle, or it could be something else. Would any other connections that could cause this problem?
I checked once more before heading to work.. Sure enough, no throttle signal shows in the calibration menu.
So I disconnected everything from the controller and came to work. I connected the controller to 30v from the bench top power supply, and the only other connection was the display.
After removing the display case, I checked the 5v hall supply. Meter reads 4.644V between Hall_5V & Hall_GND
Now what is really strange is that after connecting the throttle (while still on 30V bench power), I was able to read a good throttle and brake signal.
The strange part is that I just checked it on the bike this morning. There was no throttle or brake signal then. Only change was that I disconnected the battery, motor, thermistor, and hall wires. And moved to ONLY 30V bench power. Nothing else was connected.
So I'm not sure what is going on. It might be a bad connection in the cable with the 5v out for the throttle, or it could be something else. Would any other connections that could cause this problem?
zlagger said:
My display connection went bad after ~1k miles. Should have mentioned that. I'd look into a different connector, it's not particularly robust. In my case it was a bad solder joint under the molded portion of the connector.
zlagger
10 W
I will look into this this evening. Basically I had the throttle working yesterday on bench power. Then I took it home plugged in the battery / halls / thermistor and checked again. No throttle input!
It's driving my crazy, because I think I have it sorted out, then it doesn't work as soon as I put it on the bike. I didn't even unscrew the throttle when I took it home. Just left it connected...
It's driving my crazy, because I think I have it sorted out, then it doesn't work as soon as I put it on the bike. I didn't even unscrew the throttle when I took it home. Just left it connected...
madin88 said:
I may have also had issues with my throttle connector. I am not 100% sure because I also had issues with my throttle at the same time. I think I had issues with both that caused different problems, these went away after I cut the throttle connector off and also replaced my throttle. It may have been my throttle all along.
I did get stuck a few miles from my house and had to pedal and push my 130lbs bike home. What I was thinking along the way was it would be nice if we could somehow apply throttle power with the controller, this way if any of us ever experience throttle problems we are not stuck but can simply apply just enough power to get moving. Kind of like setting cruise control speed through the controller.
What do you think?
I did get stuck a few miles from my house and had to pedal and push my 130lbs bike home. What I was thinking along the way was it would be nice if we could somehow apply throttle power with the controller, this way if any of us ever experience throttle problems we are not stuck but can simply apply just enough power to get moving. Kind of like setting cruise control speed through the controller.
What do you think?
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