AM dual motor = bafang middrive + rear hub motor

[pendragon8000]

Dual hubs is another option. HPC does a 2wd that climbs hills quite well.

Re your mid drive plus hub idea:
You can only run 1kw through bike chain so Peake power out would only be 500watts . they are great for low speed hill climbs though.

 

[John Bozi]

I don't like the idea of another heavy hub, and dont think they are wise on suspension forks.

something like the bafang 750 with controler integrated and if you could get full power out of it in only PAS so no need for tons of other dangly sheet all over the place, connected to another 12s 1p.

so on take off PAS, get to 30kmh, pull throttle for hub - which gives you the high end. bit like hitting the turbo button. could even have it in some ridiculous high voltages as it will only be for the top end of riding. say 18s or 24s.



the 4065 wouldnt be the ideal for this idea. i imagine some geared high speed for the high end like 8t or something.

that would give time for the little bafang to cool down and use the hub in its best rpms

just a crazy idea. Hard to research it as I just keep getting guys who take hubs and make them mid drives.

 

[deffx]

imho

You need two bikes, light mid drive offroader. How fast can you go offroad

Big heavy powerful hubby commuter. speed demon

 

[John Bozi]

I need a new backpack anyway, but was thinking, possibly trying 12s2p in it only when I am going on long trips:

1. protect the back in a stack and from the contents in the pack
2. straps around the stomach and chest
on special pushys - (expensive anyway)
http://www.pushys.com.au/evoc-fr-en...m-large.html?gclid=CPnaq8HezrsCFUJZpQod2S8ArQ
I have gotten used to and enjoying my small pack so much I am scared of dedicating the whole bike to always being heavy. IF there were a simple on or off system for changing how much capacity I carry Id do it, but there just isn't. It would also be easy to charge compared to locking everything up with screws in panels.

I am considering carrying for bricks on my back just for these long trip days which are not that often. If I stacked it and landed on my back this about the only pack I can find that will have some sort of protection. Unless I get knocked out I am hoping I will have time to remove the bag from my body (lipo)

 

[John Bozi]

It will fit neatly in the triangle as you can see once I do abs fin cutting and get some longer bungee. Biggest pain in the ehole is the rear brake wire

It's a tough call as I thought I'd bring it back to life as a ghetto el fucko, that if someone steals I wouldnt care. Something to ride to work, but:

it wont have enough ahs to go to work and back.
it doesnt have an off on switch - i hate sparks
it doesnt have suspension so the battery will take a beating till dead


above photos are where I think I will try to mount. would use the old topeak but its so bloody up in the air and no reason on a hard tail.

wiring is el fucko all over the place - I just sometime want to throw the lot of the shit in the rubbish.

wish I could sell the lot.

anyone interested? $700 = $300 for bike $400 for estuff?

otherwise its gona be the run to the shop bike when working on the other one.

 

[deffx]

"ghetto el fucko" lol I need one

Would your battery fit in a falcon ev bag?

Would look tidy

Nechaus has one for sale $30 and he is near you

Just a thought probably not "ghetto elfucko" enough though

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=55851

Needs more duct tape for the real "elfucko" look and a random rattle can paint job. Maybe odd pedals and some ape hanger bars never get stolen then, put a big mothafucka rack on it and use it for beer runs when wasted

 

[John Bozi]

deffx I think you and Pendragon bout the only ones that understand me...

Yes, to most things you said.
Finally my fingers are not so scared of heat so I pulled out the solderer and

Today I soldered on 5.5 bullets onto the EFC (elfuckocontroller)

twas like 40 degrees in brisbane ................

did some more bodgy plyer fin destroying on my abs case.
Flipped an aluminium bracket and old mate Jon across the road got interupted from rose pruning, to borrow his in the front yard vice, to flip straighten the bracket.

everything kind of fit.

sparks on this battery man

I only got my old two short bungies which I kind of reworked to sort of hold the battery down there / legs do the rest.

zip tied (bloody to short) so had to use like three to do the job of one zip tie all over the controller and other elf (el fucko) style garet building.

And then in 40 degree heat I went on the elf not so virgin ride, but at least virgin with headways on her.

I rode down to the bottlo 9 picked up 8 beers from the tuckshop bin, rode to fam and back after a few reshreshments (and thunderstorm approaching)

so how does the old tank ride?

grumble grumble.

top speed same as my main bike (or atleast main bike with the headways)

grunt (not there)

peddling (wow for having a big black box between my legs you could call me a sheila, but because its hardtail and the drivetrain is perfect - peddling was lovely for the few seconds I could be bothered with it in this heat)

Af (ass factor) I felt every pot hole a bit too intimitate on the rear. It was a great experience just to make me realise how spoilt Ive been with FS.

BIGGEST THING TO WORK ON

I need an on off switch because the headways have a seperate charging terminal and when I go to the shop I didn't turn the things off because I dont like sparks.

so yeah, i got an old cow of an ebike as a back up.

 

[pendragon8000]

nice one Ms "big black box"
haha
good to see you got the iron going man.

 

[John Bozi]

Please someone help me with the simplest solution.

I researched for a while and this looks as simple as possible.

I'd get him to make on ebut it looks not Aussie.


http://lipoconnectionsolutions.com/?products=stand-alone-precharge-dongle

can you explain what is happening under the wrapping?

or pend where's ur vid?

 

[pendragon8000]

looks like the resistor is in the black heat shrink on the positive and the single red plugs make the connection bypassing the resistor.

black red
| |
| |--------red
| R1
| |--------red
| |
black red

r1 is 100ohm 5watt

 

[John Bozi]

thanks for the explanation but I need to see how they connect - any tuts on here for newbs?

 

[John Bozi]

I'm new and slow at getting my head around new stuff. This diagram shows it more simply and do you think it is simple and effective enough?

Pre-Charge Resistor Diagram Using Bullet Connectors

Bullets
Connect the large negative bullet connector
Connect the small bullet connector
Wait the appropriate amount of time
Connect the large positive bullet connector

In both diagrams, the small connector should remain connected to prevent accidental shorting against any conductive surfaces, and to keep the contacts from getting dirty while running. Even though the small connector is hooked up at the same time as the main connector, the main path of current flow will be through the main connectors.

Must I use smaller bullets and wire? I got to buy more stuff again?
Can I get the resistor from supercheap auto? or do I have to do a long trek across the city again to Jaycar?

 

[pendragon8000]

I'll show you a circuit with a pushbutton switch, led and connector...
That's what I use on my bikes.

 

[John Bozi]

I'm waiting for that one Pend, happy new year to all here too!

I've started pulling apart the Hasa controller positioning & wiring now that I got the tank to get around on. First project is to shift controller out of the triangle, so I can get some real dimensions.

2 positions possible:

under downtube

+ low centre of gravity
+ more air flow

- wet & mud easily so close to ground and front wheel
- down tube is so vertical - harder to mount
- wiring close to chain and pedals
- not stealth (nobody mounts bags to a bicycle there)

Behind/under saddle

opposite to everything above

and

+ easier to work on triangle with it out the way temporarily
- width of controller - corner stick out a bit touching inside of leg. (NP if moved back more)

red button looks a little like a rear light turned off during the day...?

 

[John Bozi]

good old tube clamps tightened perfectly, sanded the edges of the fins that were a little annoying, had an awesome spin.

EVEN MORE LEG ROOM

really feels like a normal bike again. Went for a full speed killer spin this afternoon, awesome.

Reason I moved was to work on the triangle, but I really don't know if I want to build it.

It's easy to take care of two batteries. Almost consider removing the cav3, it's kind of pointless, and annoying.

 

[pendragon8000]

ca v3 for legal mode?
did you get my message about precharge?

 

[John Bozi]

ca v3 for legal mode?
did you get my message about precharge?

legal mode? nah I never went for the tech fake, I think once it comes down to needing to prove that sort of thing your already too far in.
I'd say if anything the cav3 just adds to saying look I am electric than anything else.

Anyway , I am asking this important question again,

How does the lvc on the cav3 work? does it ramp down the amps?

because I started having power limiting on my ride this morning when I started off at about 45-43v

no check of message mate.. will fbook now

 

[John Bozi]

Since I moved to Lipo I've been having what seem like almost random power limiting effects. I say this because the closest thing I can describe to the feeling was when I would near my threshold temperatures up in the mountains on the headways.

The effects happen before I reach my lvc set voltage, before I reach my maximum speeds, before I reach my amps or watt limits. I even reupped them far from what my bike can reach and it seemed to work better but still not enough.

I am coming to the point my next test is to just disconnect the cav3 and see if it goes away so I can conclude it does or doesn't have anything to do with whats happening.

does having a small battery pack create these problems or are they being created by the cav3?

I also have since they started gotten to know all the limiting functions and the more I used them the more jerky the ride became, I really hate the way the bike rides under set limits. The cutouts and recut ins are a terrible way to ride. I much prefer the 3 way switch and just learning to pedal harder watching amps pulled at take offs.

Some might say the 3 way switch is redundant, for me the cav3 feels redundant, especially if I could find a simple temperature display.

 

[pendragon8000]

I think you may need toake the limits activate softer. I can't give a general fix for all but if you see what'slimiting then adjust it ifits to harsh , that may do the trick. The cav3 setup guide could be your best bet.

 

[John Bozi]

as i said the limits are far from what my bike does..

Im going for a spin now, have set limits to maximum away, except lvc will see...

I was going to start a new video project... then gave up and went riding instead

[youtube]gHjeFHxOwk8[/youtube]

 

[John Bozi]

I am pretty sure I have worked out what the problem is although I don't know how to fix it.

It makes sense, that the limiting I was talking about was kicking in and out differently on different settings of the 3 way switch. But yesterday it was super clear, because the bike just stayed in the middle switch speed the whole time. Didn't matter which setting I put it on, it still stayed top speed around 40kmh, which is how the bike rode ages ago before I got the 3 way switch.

Pain in the ass I have to undo all my wiring again to see if it is the connection point. I think it all worked correctly before I moved the controller to under the seat. So maybe the wires are yanking, and hopefully I haven't damaged anything inside the controller.

I did get the controller a bit wet after riding a few days ago...

I might try to short the wires as Pendragon mentioned ages ago to just leave it in unlimited all the time. It would be nice to do a way with more wires and buttons etc.

 

[pendragon8000]

yeah man if you wana do it in full speed mode all the time . i can help you use the switch as a power level switch, its not rhat hard. u just need 2 resistors and solde some wires. tape it up, and chae a couple settings i the CAV3
good luck with everything else

 

[John Bozi]

Hasa
Went for a testing ride yesterday.

pushed all the plugs in hard and then all worked. Stopped to put more gear on for a longer ride and then it didn't work again. Then I pushed the plugs together again and pushed the wire into the handle bar mount and all worked again.

More riding and it would seem sometimes random changing again, sometimes on going over a bump or standing up.

I am not sure where there is a connection problem still. The plugs look properly joined and the cord going into the switch looks undamaged.

I am considering doing away with the plug and just soldering the wires together. I do have a crap load of long wires looped up and down so it would be good to shorten the wires. shouldnt be hard to do.

Hardrock tank

Have been riding it more because it is so easy to charge.

I need to make an on off switch. I don't need a precharge for this bike as the headways don't need to be unplugged from the controller to charge. Problem is there is no on off switch on this controller set up.

Any tips for the easiest way to put one on? I have no idea what all the wires do on this cheap controller. Would be cool if I could do a simple switch between the battery and controller red/black...

Edit

I doubt I could be bothered making anything complex for the controller, it would be easier to just get a new controller for the main bike and shift the crystalyte one over to the tank.

so I should start looking at controllers that can automatically do either 48v-72v. I don't want to stuff around with programming the thing. Is 72v 40amps going to be enough? or am I going to waste more money in 6 months to be able to increase my amps or voltage?

 

[deffx]

Hasa
Went for a testing ride yesterday.

pushed all the plugs in hard and then all worked. Stopped to put more gear on for a longer ride and then it didn't work again. Then I pushed the plugs together again and pushed the wire into the handle bar mount and all worked again.

More riding and it would seem sometimes random changing again, sometimes on going over a bump or standing up.

Certainly sounds like a dodgy connection

Infineon based controllers with 100v caps and IRFB4110 mosfets should be able to handle up to 88v, so 20s lipo(lico) is about the limit

20x4.2=84v or

18s easy for you 3x6s batteries in series 18x4.2=75.6v

If you need to rely on the controllers low voltage cut out then it will need to be programmed, it seems ebikes ca just set theres at 26v to accomodate 36v set ups and would not be useful for higher voltages. Usually the battery bms would have its own lvc, but as you use lipo then set one in your CA or use cell moniter/alarms

Lots of people use 12v automotive/marine isolationg switches to break the battery red or black line, like these

http://www.ebay.com.au/bhp/12v-isolator-switch

 

[John Bozi]

Hasa
Went for a testing ride yesterday.

pushed all the plugs in hard and then all worked. Stopped to put more gear on for a longer ride and then it didn't work again. Then I pushed the plugs together again and pushed the wire into the handle bar mount and all worked again.

More riding and it would seem sometimes random changing again, sometimes on going over a bump or standing up.

Certainly sounds like a dodgy connection

Infineon based controllers with 100v caps and IRFB4110 mosfets should be able to handle up to 88v, so 20s lipo(lico) is about the limit

20x4.2=84v or

18s easy for you 3x6s batteries in series 18x4.2=75.6v

If you need to rely on the controllers low voltage cut out then it will need to be programmed, it seems ebikes ca just set theres at 26v to accomodate 36v set ups and would not be useful for higher voltages. Usually the battery bms would have its own lvc, but as you use lipo then set one in your CA or use cell moniter/alarms

Lots of people use 12v automotive/marine isolationg switches to break the battery red or black line, like these

http://www.ebay.com.au/bhp/12v-isolator-switch

DONT FEEl good bout 12v on 48v.

spent ages playing with the wiring and notice that there is a good possibility that the switch might have yanked out of the controller. the rubber tubes feed in and out easily so maybe in my tidying up I pulled them too hard.

dam


..