AMPED BIKE REAR HUB LOOKING FOR FRAME

PitchPenny

100 mW
Joined
Feb 10, 2012
Messages
37
I have a 26" amped bike hub motor the wheel was ready to go on a cruiser frame
I paid $50 for a beautiful 6 speed cruiser but the wheel does not seat without
hitting the frame (the frame is large & "puffy") does anyone have any idea how to buy
a used bike and not RUN INTO THIS PROBLEM?
Am I suppose to ask to remove a back wheel from a private sale before I buy a used bike?

BTW A bike shop spent an hour trying everything to fit the amp wheel onto my bike,
no dice....
 
You know what's funny, I have a frame that was built for a fat hub motor but the tapered piece that was welded onto the seat tube broke off at the weld. Other than that the frame is completely intact. It's a blue R-Martin LX1 bike frame. If you know someone that can weld heat treated aluminium and aren't too far away you're welcome to it. I still have the piece that broke off. If you do a google search for rmartin Lx1 the first link takes you to their old website and a picture of the bike. The only reason why the piece broke off is because I had an extended length seat post on it and I'm kind of heavy so that put too much pressure on the weld. You'd have to cover shipping cost but the frame is free.
 
PitchPenny said:
I have a 26" amped bike hub motor the wheel was ready to go on a cruiser frame
I paid $50 for a beautiful 6 speed cruiser but the wheel does not seat without
hitting the frame (the frame is large & "puffy") does anyone have any idea how to buy
a used bike and not RUN INTO THIS PROBLEM?
Am I suppose to ask to remove a back wheel from a private sale before I buy a used bike?
BTW A bike shop spent an hour trying everything to fit the amp wheel onto my bike,
no dice....
How to not have this problem.
Measure the length of the chain stay, from the BB to the drop outs.
Also measure the inflated wheel/tire diameter.
You won't buy the wrong size again I bet.
 
HAROX
How to not have this problem.
Measure the length of the chain stay, from the BB to the drop outs.
Also measure the inflated wheel/tire diameter. You won't buy the wrong size again I bet.



HAROW my good man Would that I UNDERSTAND what a "BB" is ...to the drop outs
I think i understand the measuring the inflated wheel/tire diameter
that would be side to side, YES?
 
Is it that the tire is too wide and rubs on the sides of the frame? Or does the tire tread rub the frame part where the pedals go through- which is the BB ( bottom bracket )Did the bike shop say that there is not a more narrow tire available? What are ALL of the numbers on the sidewall of the tire?
 
PitchPenny, here, with my best regards...
http://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/bicycleparts.html
Simply measure the distance from the bottom bracket to the drop outs, and the diameter of the wheel, tire inflated.
Now, the radius of the wheel must fit in the distance from the BB to the drop outs, correct? It has to. Even if there's a kick-stand on a bracket, the wheel must fit (that) THERE. The wheel must roll in the space, and not hit the brace or the sides.

As for the cruiser you have, well, look again!! Resell it quick for $80 (wash and wipe) or have a nice beer bike.

harox
 
I wish someone would say what a BB is! I don't know all the lingo...
The last gear the smallest one hit the frame because the frame is puffy
unless I wanted to bang that puffiness out of that spot which I am not about to do
there really is no way to get that wheel in there...Yes I could replace the 6 gears
with 5 gears...but I am not about to do that eather....
I had another bike that I spent all day converting to electric...
the wheel fix just fine...I am NOT crazy about this bike, for one, it is a mountain bike
and I feel more comfortable with a Curiser. Second it is a Male...and throwing my leg
over that bar is hell, yea I know tilt the bike and get on...But when you tilt it IT wants
to fall over!!!
the Curiser is unisex so getting on and off is a breeze
WHY DO THEY NEED A BAR THAT HIGH for a males bike?
Like the designer was a male hater "let's put the bar UP THERE"
 
"BB" stands for bottom bracket. The bottom bracket on a bike is the axle that the crank arms attach to. Did the bike shop dude try to put a washer on the rear axle to the inside of the dropout/rear fork? This would spread the rear of the bike enough to get the wheel on and keep from rubbing against the frame. Another option would be to put a 5 speed gear cassette/freewhweel on in place of the 6 speed. You can have a bike shop set your shifter to only work at 5 speeds. The bike mechanic should have mentioned all of this but unfortunately for us most bike shops actually don't like electric bikes.
 
PitchPenny said:
I wish someone would say what a BB is!
Two people already told you, not counting myself. Why is it so hard for people to read??
Regardless
My apologies! I did this once before, abrebreating... not wanting to type out motorcycle every time.I abbreviated.
I'll have to quit abrebreatin, PP. I'll try.
Regardless, (you just have to) measure to be confident in your acquisition.
 
I'm still not quite sure what your problem is.

For one, don't cruiser bikes typically have a fat tire? Is the rim not centered in the frame? Perhaps you need to adjust the dishing of the wheel. If it's a steel frame, you can also try bending the frame wider, then use washers as needed to re center the rim.

REALLY old bikes can definitely have fitting problems. But old enough, its steel which can allow bending stuff. Are you SURE the bike is the same 26" size? Old stuff can come in some odd sizes.
 
Hmm. Maybe its one of them ten ton kickstand types, and the wheel don't fit :D . anybody have a tape measure...is there a tailor in the house?
I never asked. Was this bike in a wreck? You said when you got it, it wouldn't sit right and felt puffy. I think you bought a crooked cruiser.

I'm sorry, that was only a joke. Give us the measurements so we can suggest something else.
 
Re: AMPED BIKE REAR HUB LOOKING FOR FRAME
by lbz5mc12 » Sat Apr 20, 2013 1:19 am

"BB" stands for bottom bracket. The bottom bracket on a bike is the axle that the crank arms attach to. Did the bike shop dude try to put a washer on the rear axle to the inside of the dropout/rear fork? This would spread the rear of the bike enough to get the wheel on and keep from rubbing against the frame. Another option would be to put a 5 speed gear cassette/freewhweel on in place of the 6 speed. You can have a bike shop set your shifter to only work at 5 speeds. The bike mechanic should have mentioned all of this but unfortunately for us most bike shops actually don't like electric bikes.

BOTTOM BRACKET!@!! thank you!@ at last someone takes the time to decode the acronism...you know I don't know that measuring is all that needed I called AMPED BIKED
and Bud there told me that 99% of bike will work for the AMPED WHEEL
I just feel into the 1%..................
Yes I could have a BIKE SHOP replace the 6 gears with 5 gears that would FIX THIS PROBLEM...But I am not going to go through all that Like i said I used a mountain bike i
had and made the conversion in a day and the bike rides like the wind
I am happy for now, but I still would like a Crusier someday...they trick is to look for one
with out puffed out metal near the Bottom Bracket...
AND YES THIS BIKE SHOP HATES ELECTRIC BIKES
THEY ASKED ME NOT TO COME BACK
 
PennyPitch
I found 99% of the more traditional cruisers are harder to "get a measurement" on. Does your bike look like this?
http://www.walmart.com/ip/26-Huffy-Nel-Lusso-Women-s-Cruiser-Bike-Gloss-Blue/23267962
If so maybe not. Sorry you couldn't use the numbers to your advantage, this time.
Your Original Posting quote:"does anyone have any idea how to buy a used bike and not RUN INTO THIS PROBLEM?"
The problem: a wheel/tire, oversized for the cruiser. That's a measurement problem.
Measure the wheel/tire diameter, measure the tire thickness, measure the rim diameter. Measure the axle length.

Now, if you have the numbers already written on a piece of paper, either by you or the manufacturers of the wheel/tire/motor/axle, you can walk up to any frame and quickly decide whether you can make it work, based on the information already in this thread.
Likewise, if you have the numbers and you hand them to a mechanic, they can make it work, if the numbers are right, though sometimes it takes beer to make a mechanic do something he doesn't want to do..
Being put off by a LBS mechanic is commonplace BTW. Once I was in your shoes, all the time. Now, only once every other day. We're all noobs with E bikes, even the pros have stated as much. It's a new form. I applaud you for trying. No worries. You'll get it.
 
I hope this link is still OK to Ask a question on;
Well here goes...
It occured to me that My Amped Wheel has 6 gears on it...
and the Cruiser Bike I bought had a 6 gear wheel
>it simple did not fit as stated before<
MY QUESTION is- What if i bought a Cruiser that has more that 6 gears
would that be a way to safe guard against the MY AMPED WHEEL not fitting?
IF I got a Bike that was 7 gears would that mean there is more room for my
6 gear to fit?
 
PitchPenny said:
I hope this link is still OK to Ask a question on;
Absolutely, as every question you ask bumps back to top the long list, hopefully more will jump in to answer.
A 7 speed capable frame is bigger than a 6, as there's several millimeters difference, to account for the added cog.
When you need the next biggest size, you always have the choice of spreading the frame (though sometimes like too small trousers they might not fit elsewhere, or worse, rrrrrip.)
Here's some archived conversation from LFP to willow about this problem:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=46968&p=688109
In order to answer your question, I searched "spreading frame" (no quotation marks needed).
There's a check-box under the search box asking "Using Google Search?" Check that.
Everything Google compiles from Endless Sphere will head the list of pertinent answers. It's a very cool tool 8)
 
So what I am going to do is look for a Cruiser that has 7 or more speeds and I feel I will be safe...I am hoping this will be the ticket for my 6 gear hub wheel... :wink:
 
"Hope" is beside the point, to be blunt.
Get a metric tape and caliper and make notes about YOUR build. There is really no other way, If you don't do that, the person who builds it will have to. If they don't do it, and they hand you a bike and say "I hope this is right" don't ride the bike.
If it breaks, it could hurt you, besides you just spent hundreds to "hope".


Sorry if I seem stuck on numbers. I'm trying to help you solve problem. BTW it's not your personal problem here. The numbers speak where other words fail.
My thread, notice the numbers, PP, in centimeters and millimeters.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=49515
 
Well, I won't help much till I understand the problem.

What's rubbing? Is it tire or the gears? We can spew guesses all day with the info we have so far. Pictures of what is rubbing would help us understand too, if possible.

If the gears are rubbing, stand on one dropout, and then pull on the other, gently, till it bends out a quarter inch or so. But not if it's an aluminum frame, just if it's steel.

The dropout is the slot the axle goes into btw.

You may need an inner spacer washer, to create some space between the cogs and the frame.
 
I sold the bike that my amped wheel did not fit on
now I am just concerned that the next one I buy will do the same...
>I really truely suck @ measurements<
the bike I bought that my amped wheel did not fit into
had the same 6 gears as my amped wheel did
and the last gear(the smallest) hit the side of the frame
I think if I buy a bike with 7 or more gears and the frame is not all
"puffed" out as was the case with my last bike I should be fine
 
Dogman, Thank you! For dealing with me as the noob that I am. I'm trying to go for the point to this thread, for posterity.
NOOBS !!
If you don't measure, you'll cry, a lot.
You need "nerd tools" like these.
CIMG1052.JPG

Learn by measuring, the numbers.

Use pencil and paper. Make notes.
Otherwise it's going to be a big fat fail, a BFF, PP.
This is all the help that I can give.
 
...is this a ruse, Penny? Seems like fiction...the only "measurement" has been "26". Nobody can get an answer otherwise about the problem.
Besides that, in this thread you have a MTN E bike, that runs like the wind, and you're trying to fit the wheel on a cruiser, but then you gave up and sold it...and in a more recent thread you still have the cruiser bike that rides like the wind this time, and you're trying to fit the wheel on a MTN bike.
You complain about the same LBS telling you to get lost on both builds, and amazingly, you are switching wheels between the two bikes yourself...hmm
The problems are: failed bike shop, failed build, failed steering, and you say yourself you "suck at measuring", like it's some sort of big KINGS X.
Also, no pictures, no mention of brands, or motors, or location, or battery type, almost like your plan was to leave all the pertinent info out just to see how far you could get being non-descriptive.
Besides all the above, I know you can read, since your writing regresses from being perfect to being illegible.

I say ruse. Contrived bad FIKSHUN.
 
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