Animalector's Ebike Builds

Update Time...

I just upgraded to a 203mm Front rotor. Braking performance is much better than before, although I am concerned about my front forks, they are 'getting on', and tend to flex under load. I am looking into dual crown 180mm options from DNM the USD180 http://www.dnmshock.com/bike-front-forks/usd-180.html. THey look like a solid fork, and for the money would probably be adequate. Otherwise it's almost a double jump in price to maybe >$800 for anything else. not really looking second hand I don't really want other peoples problems. Anyone in Melbourne want to group buy on the Forks with me to save a few dollars??? (can get adj. seat posts and rear shocks from them too)

Question time...
I'm considering upgrading a few items, (forks, motor, controller, batteries, bike, etc.) but will probably just end up finally fitting my battery box. For this, I am considering purchasing the HK 5000mAh LiPo Cells at 14S so I can use my existing 48V LiFePO charger. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18560__Turnigy_5000mAh_1S_20C_Lipoly_Single_Cell_.html eventually I will go for a Mini Monster Controller for more amps (> 30A), and probably switch to a BPM motor, as my one currently has great speed (45km/h avg - 50km/h tucked in) but pretty poor torque..
BatteryBoxLiPos [800x600].jpg

The questions is... is it worth purchasing a LiPo BMS for this or should I just pre-balance the pack, bulk charge, and re-balance the packs from time to time with one of Hyena's Super-Duper balance chargers?
Here's a link to the BMS from batteryspace http://www.batteryspace.com/pcmwithequilibriumfunctionfor518vli-ionbatterypackat40alimit.aspx

I have the enclosure all made up already and it's just sitting there not being used. I should take a photo...

Anyway, enough rambling. Any advice, opinions etc welcomed.

Andy
 
your troque arm ideal is wonderful !, thanks you for sharing. my is also a conhismotor 48v 1000watts. i have been running this since 2years back. Now im upgarding the controller again, twice. 1st one is standard, but i get very fast lose interests the speed and troque especially. so i upgrade to 60v controller, Now , i order a 18fets, 4110controller, green time controller which is coming soon. I will be trying for 80v ~ 90v for a very short distance, maybe 5mins BURST? i have open up the motor and also changed the phase wires. Much thicker wire 12awg, but take a lot of pain sloting in through. i have also spray the hub motor the inside , just to prevent rust. it is hi- heat paint on them. this hub motor is okay to run abit higher volts to 61, 63v.. unsure if is okay for 80- 90 volts or not ? to find out, i will go for test

ken
 
Yeah the Torque arm was just the brake caliper bracket they sent rotated and drilled to work as a torque arm. I think it works well.

What sort of current were you running at +60V? I wouldn't mind seeing how the motor performs at 48V but with 40 - 50amps. I think it would offer more torque where it is currently lacking.. with the top speed quite similar.

Pics of the battery box. I have hand routed some sections for extra clearance where the cables / suspension come close to the box,
20120923_174114 [800x600].jpg
20120923_174125 [800x600].jpg
20120923_174156 [800x600].jpg
20120923_174209 [800x600].jpg
Andy
 
That's a nice looking box! Did you cut the plastic by hand?
Animalector said:
The questions is... is it worth purchasing a LiPo BMS for this or should I just pre-balance the pack, bulk charge, and re-balance the packs from time to time with one of Hyena's Super-Duper balance chargers?
I'd advise against any BMS with discharge-through circuitry. Lipo stays well balanced if looked after. Bulk-charge to 4.15 and don't discharge below 3.6~3.7, etc.. A couple of Cell-logs with alarm output can be a very effective alternative to BMS.

I know it's not what you are designing for, but still worth considering jonescg packs. He's got a couple of boards left viewtopic.php?f=31&t=38252&start=105#p641646 they are for 3p of the 5Ah 40C cells

BTW I've got 35 of the 20C cells here in case you need a dimension check

PS off topic: Pete came 6th in his class after being held up by a slow rider and missing out of the podium spot by a few seconds
 
it needs Both side for troque arms. it took me many hours to figure out, it can drop off or damage the drop off. if you have only 1 side troque arm, you can be surprised the other side without troque arm, the big nut will drop off itself . the inner i build another hub motor holder. My ebike alloy drop out i can see is weak so i add another steel plate at Both side ( center is the alloy drop out). using 2 type of steel epoxy and test it out. i couldn't find the 3M ones.

kent
 

Attachments

  • one.jpg
    one.jpg
    74.2 KB · Views: 2,960
my test for huatong 48v controller 42amps ,2100watts ~ 2200watts peak give max speed is similar speed like 50km/h+ 42amps my range become much more shorter by less 10km ?
i bought another huatong controller 60v 1800watts On lifepo4 + 2more lipos 20amps cells i got a Better speed up max 58km/h or on flat i can get 55km/h. On my next project im doing is 48v lifepo4 + 8 lipos cellls of 10amps. But now im waiting my controller to fly over, top speed i don't know Until i go for a test. My coming is green time controller 60amps 18fets 4110. On 80v+ , 90v ~ 100volts How fast ? anyone knows . I will be testing this project by next week. controller has been just send out, so probably i will received them by 1 week. Well, the FUN is coming,, . my torque arms has been upgrade again too, more robust. Build it to the maximum of my ability. I'm joining 85v ~ 100volts club !!.

2 years back+, I first upgrade this controller to 48v 18fets 2000watts, i test/run on my hub motor few weeks only.it is too slow for me, so i upgrading the 60v 1800watts controller seem interesting , is much faster and better troque. this controller can take volts up to 70v. i saw the caps in huatong 60v is 75caps. so must stay always below., the controller work well because my max volts i run is 65v and below. i run this 60v 1800watts for more then a year+ or more. Now upgrade again. I think my final ideal choice of speed is 55km/h ~ 60km/h.

ken
 
The main pieces were routed out, but due to the nature of routers I had to "finish" all of the internal corners to square with a dremel. It didn't take too long in the end and didn't cost me much to have it cut.. Which is lucky because I paid a forum member to build me a metal box which he never delivered on. Bummer.

I saw the jonescg packs, I think 3p is a bit much, but like the idea and could do my own pcbs if anyone is keen for some 2p6s or 7s maybe

These 35 cells you have, are they surplus to requirements? Our have you got them planned for some pack you are making?

Oh yeah, congrats to Pete.
Andy
 
Those cells were part of the group buy intended for Kona Bass, same to voicecoil's viewtopic.php?f=9&t=40043
But the frame cracked before the cells arrived :(
Now they are just sitting waiting for the next pack to be built.

Let me know if you are making the PCBs - I still got all the files handy, so can modify for a 2p in no time.

Speaking of BMS - check out what landed on my desk at lunchtime viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37377 8)
 
Looks awesome, let me know how you go learning how to drive it :wink:

$ per Watt-hour, the Zippy's from HK are basically the same price as the bare LiPo cells, but the zippy's come with balance leads and main leads. Too many options... When I know what I want I'll let you know.

My tax return didn't quite suffice, so I need to save up for future upgrades.. (could always sell my carbon racer... any takers?)

Andy
 
Well, the bike is operational after a bit of an upgrade. I decided to put my battery box into action. Unfortunately, it required a lot of additional cutting to get the big LiFePo in there, but it's all in, the controller is in there too.. I will have to do a few rides to see how hot it gets. I am only running about 35 amps through it max so hopefully it will be ok in there. Most of the time I have to limit to 15Amps so I can make it to work and back on a single charge.

Upgrades:
New phase wires with 4mm gold bullets
New Battery / power cables with andersons.
Pre-charge Button/ resistor
3 speed switch
Regenerative braking
still unable to program the controller but it's working

At the very least it looks better than before.
20121028_180157 [800x600].jpg
20121028_180246 [800x600].jpg
20121028_180217 [800x600].jpg

I decided to duct tape it up so I can take it for a test run, just to test the new controller. ultimately I will use long cable clamps into the box and back out around the bike frame.
20121028_170114 [800x600].jpg

Andy
 
Well back to square 1.

I was happy with the look and finish of the box, however, when riding the battery would jump around inside the box. A few particularyl large bumps caused some of the plastic joins to separate. nothing major but with such a heavy LiFePo in there I think it really should be a metal box.. so.... I went out and got a new heavy bracket, and will revert to the old setup but with some additions...

Battery and BMS have now been splash proofed
All cables / connectors between Controller and accessories will go into water proof housing.
Controller will be external but with cables pointing downwards it should also be splash proof
Try to avoid duct tape - I have some straps and cable clamps - but I think in the end there will be duct tape.

The new configuration is great, I get better economy, more power and the added advantage of regen with the new Infineon 12 FET. I still cannot program it however.. see http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=27927&start=315#p655630

THe objective is to be able to commute reliably without the risk of serious damage if / when it rains in Melbourne.
Bike.JPG
Andy
 
I am going to try a new battery layout.
in the past i have positioned it parallel or perpendicular to the down tube... I think I might stand it perpendicular to the top tube (pic 2)
(note pics not to scale)

The advantage is I use more of the space close to the shock, and free up more space in the triangle at the front of the bike for controller and waterproof cable management
layout1.jpglayout2.jpg


have to devise some sort of bracket pics to follow. I need this running before the group ride in a couple of weeks,.


Andy
 
regarding the pics above, I ended up building a wooden bracket, partially using the shock mount for stability and standing the battery upright (perpendicular to the top tube). This has been working great, I had all controller connectors in an enclosed mini lunch-box style case. to secure it all I had a few large pipe-clamps joined together and encompassing the frame and battery then tightened down, nothing moved it was pretty good..

So... Before I go on....

I got a flat the other day. Even with kevlar tire liner and puncture resistant tires this monster piece of glass just shredded through it all. Since i was just ducking down to the local squash courts, I didn't carry a patch kit. (oops). I did manage to score a lift home and then dive back with the ute to collect the bike. so not too bad in the end.

So anyway, yesterday I decided to patch the tire. Which got me thinking... "hmm, while I am working on it I might take another look at my battery box!!!"

Long story short. I have gone back to my battery box, however it is now reinforced with the above-mentioned pipe clamps series joined and wrapped around the perimeter of the box for structural integrity. The box is now pipe-clamped to the frame on each of it's 3 major sides and all tightened down.. it doesn't move.

Pics to follow.

Andy
 
keen to split the postage and get a second frame for yourself?

His price for the frameset is on the zelena vozilla site.. I was going to buy the Cromotor wheel set too, but have to wait a short while for cash (until I sell both bikes in fact)
 
started tracking down suppliers for other parts as well.. I might try to get prismatic 20AH LiFePO4, 20 - 24S if it can fit, Cromotor, 18 or 24 FET controller..

Should be alright ;)

Andy
 
Well it has begun.

Received so far:
Greyb.org Frameset with ATS Speed drive
Zombiess 18FET Controller plus Throttle
CAv3
Twin Disc Front Hub

On order:
3000W Hub motor laced into 19" moto rim, 13.8kV
19" front moto rim spoke set and tyres for both.

About to Order:
18S3P in two 9S3P packs one in the upper and one in the lower sections

Need to Order:
Forks, Shock, Handlebar, Headset, pedals, cables / misc connectors, chargers, lighting,

20130920_211056 (Large).jpg
View attachment 6
20130921_134757 (Custom).jpg
20130921_134831 (Custom).jpg
20130921_135228 (Custom).jpg
20130921_135837 (Custom).jpg
20130921_135851 (Custom).jpg
20130921_140103 (Custom).jpg
 
Not bad!

What brakes will you be running?

Tried some twin discs in the past - meh.. Too mushy. Prefer quad piston instead. Plus limited choice of forks.
BTW what fork and shock were you thinking of?
 
Back
Top