Any connector for 600A?

[BenjAZ]

Hi,

I'm designing a 30s34p battery pack divided in 3 layers. Still not finished.
Something like this:


I'd like to connect the layers in series but cannot find any connector to handle the 600A peak current. The normal current will be about 150A.
Can you suggest any, please?

I'm considering using 2 conector but I'm worried about how critical will be the wire length. I mean if one is shorter, would most/all of the current try to go through it?

Thanks

 

[john61ct]

Cranking a big diesel can hit 600A easy, but it's for a very short transient peak.

Anderson SB-350 is UL rated to 450A, that is likely to be for a longer period.

Two connectors can be OK, but keep the split length short as possible and fuse each separately, maybe for for 400A.

You **really** want to be sure about the quality of every crimp & component at those current levels, no skimping, marine specs.

 

[john61ct]

Also see the Ladd catalog for Deutsch stuff

 

[BenjAZ]

I know the Anderson SB-350 connector, but they don´t make any up to 600A.

I'll have a look to LADD products. Thanks!

 

[john61ct]

How many minutes at a time do you think you'd be pushing 600A?

With a 450A continuous rating, for under 30sec @600A I'd at least test it with a temp sensor.

 

[billvon]

You **really** want to be sure about the quality of every crimp & component at those current levels, no skimping, marine specs.

I'd also add that at those power levels, manual or hammer crimpers are NOT OK. You need the hydraulic crimper with the dies designed for that specific lug.

 

[flippy]

nobody uses connectors for these currents, the heat production in anderson-style coneectors would be a massive fire hazard. bolt lugs that have been hydraulically crimped is the only proper way.
packs like these should be set up so there is no need to disconnect them at all.

this pack would weigh at least 70kg~100kg with a housing, there is no reason you would need to disconnect it often in the first place as you need a crane to lift it.

 

[Philaphlous]

I have to agree. It's going to look similar to Tesla style connectors on the inside of the vehicle. Also, I know it might not look the best but you may want to go with high visibility orange cable. Not sure where Tesla gets their cable as I'm sure they make their own but maybe check McMaster Carr. I'm thinking what, 0 gauge? What are those phase wires going to look like? Lol

 

[john61ct]

You guys think 0# AWG cable is a huge gauge?

Yes of course proper crimps with fine-stranded UL rated boat cable, known-good branded fittings, proper tools, gas-tight milspec pull tests.

If you don't want to spend big bucks on say Deutsch industrial stuff, a big buss with ring terminals would do it.

But momentary 600A is NBD, that's what cranking big engines requires, it's maintaining X seconds that build the heat.

Just measure the actual draw, only way to know.

Another approach, parallel then serial to build up per-pack to good Ah at desired voltage, then parallel multiple such packs at the buss, spread the load across say three max.

Of course easier to start with larger cells in the first place, I used to only consider 20+Ah sizings, consider that a very small unit.

But if you're talking bicycles, different world.

 

[flippy]

tesla's connectors are their own design.

cables can be bought from amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Gauge-ORANGE-Ground-GP-Audio/dp/B076C46KNY

 

[BenjAZ]

Hi guys,

Thanks for all the answers.

I don't think all 600A will be pull for more than 5-10 seconds (not sure how often) as this battery pack is going into a motorbike and you can guess the acceleration of 600A @ 111V nominal on a 180kg bike...

At the end of each 10s module I'd use a copper piece of 60mm wide x 4mm thick and 350mm tall. So, perhaps I could use an 600A ANL fuse to link all three modules? This would link and protect them...


What do you think?

For the main positive and negative, I'd like to use orange wire similar to the one you suggest

 

[BenjAZ]

Regarding the cells, I'd go with Sony VTC4, VTC5 or VTC6 (with 20A-25A fuse wire, still not sure) as their max continuous discharge is 30A and we will pull around 18A. We don't want to fry the cells after a few days of abuse.

Independently of the cells, I will use temperature sensor to protect the pack

 

[john61ct]

an 600A ANL fuse to link all three modules? This would link and protect them...


What do you think?

Good!

Class T even better. Known good brands, not cheap Chinese.

Same with wiring, UL rated marine tinned etc fittings

 

[cricketo]

Agree with posters above. There is no good reason to use connectors between those modules in this use case. Terminate modules with screw terminals, and use copper bus bars to connect them together.

 

[BenjAZ]

an 600A ANL fuse to link all three modules? This would link and protect them...
ANL fuse.PNG

What do you think?

Good!

Class T even better. Known good brands, not cheap Chinese.

Same with wiring, UL rated marine tinned etc fittings

What are tthe differences between ANL and Class T fuses? That could be another good option

 

[john61ct]

Class T more commonly used for bigger currents, IMO more physically robust as well.

But check the electrical fuse characteristics, timing etc, not something you want to be replacing often.

And they go on the battery side of the wiring, ideally inches from their bank.

 

[fechter]

ANL fuses are not going to be rated for 30s worth of voltage. If the fuse were to blow, it would be prone to drawing an arc that doesn't go out (fire). You want something rated for that voltage, which is going to be a big, expensive cartridge fuse filled with stuff that puts the arc out.

 

[flippy]

fusing the individual packs is pretty meaningless anyway. the only whay those would ever trigger if you had a short between the individual packs themselfs because the insulation beween them failed. and even then you got a nicely destroyed pack because 600A is no joke on a place where the insulation failed.

 

[BenjAZ]

I'll have to use a nail, then :lol: