Battery build & Controller Upgrade

Remember, the file attached to my post just needs to be renamed to .apk from .zip.

It is not an actual zip file, just has to be called that to allow the forum to attach it.

A zip program will not find anything to unzip because there is not anything to unzip. ;)
 
I'm thinking about just buying another bms now so its here when my batteries are here. This is crazy I didn't think it would be this kind of nightmare to download the app it said it was in google play. All of this extra stuff is driving me crazy.
 
Thinking about getting a Daly bms for in case things dont go so good with the ANT. Anything to know about Daly bms? Will it work ok in a motorcycle application? Do I need to get the active balancer? Will I be able to get help from other people on here who also use Daly?
 
Have you tried what I suggested? If so, what were the exact results?
 
I use a straight mechanical crimper for the big lugs, it is like a cable cutter so 75cm handles and mechanical linkage on the front, it so far has been all I needed and I picked it up used for like 40 bucks. No idea what they cost new. The pneumatic/hydraulic units out there I have seen were in the 100's.. now the hammer Idea has appeal, I already have the anvil...

With the custom crimpers, be careful there are a *LOT* of knockoffs, some better some worse. I ordered my first one and it literally had the completely wrong config for what it was to be used on. returned it and got another, 2nd one.. about 25% of the cost of the branded unit, is still in my work kit 2 years later and I even hunted up the original seller and ordered the additional bits so it works with other brands of connectors. Hooking up custom connectors without the correct crimping tool can be done. It is just a major pain in the tookus.
 
ElectricGSXR said:
I'm thinking about just buying another bms now so its here when my batteries are here. This is crazy I didn't think it would be this kind of nightmare to download the app it said it was in google play. All of this extra stuff is driving me crazy.
Click to expand...
Lol if you think getting the ANT BMS to work is difficult, wait until you'll have to use the controller programming interface, it will be a whole other level of complexity.

If I look at the screenshot you shared on the previous page, it looks like you're trying to open the apk file on your computer.
This program is intended for an android phone, so you should open it on your phone.

Step 1: download the file from the link our buddy Floyd kindly provided.
Step 2: extract the apk file from it
Step 3: transfer the apk file to your phone
Step 4: find the file wherever you saved it, then install.

It's really not rocket science, should be easy to do.

But I agree on the fact that it's VERY frustrating that the app isn't available on the usual stores.
The chinese make decent hardware but its always catastrophic when it comes to the software and the documentation.

In my experience the Daly BMS are way worse, the app might be easier to install but it lacks some essential features. I tried using one on a battery build and I regretted it deeply.
 
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I'm using a Samsung tablet. It says it's a rar.html file when I download the link from Floyd.

The only options I get are to open the file with: Google Chrome, Internet Explorer, HTML Viewer

I got the Kelly app to work at least..
 

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ElectricGSXR said:
I'm using a Samsung tablet. It says it's a rar.html file when I download the link from Floyd.

The only options I get are to open the file with: Google Chrome, Internet Explorer, HTML Viewer

I got the Kelly app to work at least..
Click to expand...
remove the ".html" from the name of the file.
 
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Now I can get back to the Alarm and Ignition.
I am pretty sure that the alarm communicates with the motor. So lets say someone is trying to steal the bike, the alarm will sound, the wheel locks up and makes it harder to just roll the bike away. I think that is all it does but I'm not sure. I only tested it the one time when he sold it to me and it was a long time ago now.
 
Batteries will be here this Friday!

I'm thinking about scrapping the idea of using flattened copper pipe as my bus bars. Going to either try to find proper ones from Amazon or just use wire and lugs. What do you guys think?
 
harrisonpatm said:
It's the cheap way to go, it'll just be tough to make them look nice. That may not matter to you.
Click to expand...
Wait, i misread it at first, read too quickly. I meant, that flattening copper pipes is the cheap and functional, but ugly, way to go.

If you get proper square stock from amazon, you'll still have to do the work yourself of final shaping, cutting, drilling, ect. Copper is copper, either way, I just usually choose the cheap option.
 
I'm just worried because I read that flattening the copper pipe will work harden it making it more prone to crack and break. I figure since it's on a bike and there will be some vibration and stuff especially in the city with the potholes I will inevitably hit. I just don't want to risk any breaks. I know the battery will be pretty secure being taped and wrapped but still it's a chance I didn't want to take after reading that.

My idea is to get a good crimp on the lug first and foremost. Then use shrink wrap with adhesive. It will help keep the wire stuck to the lug if my crimp does fail at least, and the lug is fastened to a m6 bolt so it's not going anywhere. That was what I figured to be the safest way to do it to avoid anything way down the line, as I don't plan on ever really opening up the battery pack again once it's all wrapped up.

Copper bus bars would be ideal but it's a lot more money. That's really what it boils down to for me now at this point after safety of course. I don't see my way of doing it with lugs being much less safe than doing it with busbars assuming my crimps are all good. The crimps will be a potential point of failure but I'm hoping that if they do fail the adhesive shrink wrap will provide an extra hold. Of course then its taped up on top of that and then the battery pack will get wrapped as well. If a lot of people here use copper pipe and can vouch for it in scooters/ebikes/electric motorcycles then hell yeah I would love to go that route providing its safe and been tested by people here as well. Wouldn't have to buy as many lugs or crimp as many wires and bolt on connections are ideal too imo.

That's another thing I should check actually. Does anyone know if it's ok to wrap up those nissan leaf modules or will that cause them to overheat? I haven't thought about that. I'd like to wrap it for an extra shield from the weather in the worst case if I did get caught in pouring rain and my battery box leaked. I'm going to try and waterproof the battery box as best I can obviously but there's always a chance the worst can happen I want all the protection I can get and try to avoid anything catastrophic.
 
Oh, so you're imagining using sections of copper to bolt each terminal of your Nissan leaf modules together? Sorry, forgot which battery you were using.

The leaf modules have holes for threaded rod going all the way through the pack, if you make it that way, which you should. So the individual modules won't be moving relative to each other. Then, your piece of copper that you're using as a bus bar will be bolted down from stud to stud, so those won't move either. I don't really see any excessive vibrations causing your copper to crack, if you do go with the squashed pipe method.

I'd also recommend checking out your local scrapyard, if they're friendly and let you buy off the lot. That's how I get all my copper on the cheap.
 
Even if you make your own bus bars using storebought copper stock, it's still gonna be way less money than cables and lugs, plus way less work, and way fewer parts to go wrong.
 
Yeah I was just scared when I read they get prone to cracking and breaking over time, but I didn't think about the Leaf modules being bolted together with the threaded rod. There wont be movement or chance for stress on the bars. Thanks, I was way overthinking it.
 
ElectricGSXR said:
Yeah I was just scared when I read they get prone to cracking and breaking over time, but I didn't think about the Leaf modules being bolted together with the threaded rod. There wont be movement or chance for stress on the bars. Thanks, I was way overthinking it.
Click to expand...
Yeah copper pipe is a good idea. You can probably anneal it with a blowtorch so it becomes softer and less prone to cracking, even though I don't really think cracking will be an issue.
 
Annealing the bars is a pretty good idea, Copper work hardens amazingly fast, even from minor motion, so that will probably double the time it takes go from dead softer to hard and crumbly I have no idea what that time line is for bus bars, but In one of my weirder moments I became a silver smith and have worked pretty extensively with decorative copper, and the problem is the folks I was helping with it, were doing all their work in the "traditional way" of central ameria, wasn't aware they did anything with copper but in any case, they hammered that metal like it owed them money their success rate was pretty low because it got brittle and fractured.. and this is how I ended up owning an annealing furnace that can hold about 40 pounds of copper ingots (little ones)
 
Hey guys,

I have some questions involving wiring and also programming.
Wiring first.
I'm a little confused with the wiring diagram for the controller. In the Kelly manual (wiring diagram) it shows the Battery Negative going to the controller, but they don't show a BMS anywhere.

I am trying to draw my own diagram to understand it better also to take certain things I'm not using out like the contactor.
I am just wondering:
The ANT BMS wiring diagram shows the B- of BMS going to the Battery Negative. It shows the C- of the BMS going to the controller. I guess my question is, does the C- of the BMS basically become the Battery Negative?
Sorry if I sound crazy I am just a little confused.

Also I am wondering if I can make my own little copper "bus bars" to make multiple connections on. For example (in the ANT BMS wiring diagram) the C- of the BMS goes to the controller(-) but also to the charger/charging port(-) on bike in my case.
Can I make a piece of copper big enough to drill 2 holes and fasten 2 lug bolts securely to it then wrap it up after?

I am trying to clean up the wiring on paper first. I'm getting rid of the 100A breaker on my bike, and I'd like to actually get rid of that plastic "bus bar" too, even though I said I wanted to re-use it. I might get rid of the alarm if it gives me too much of a headache. I think I will be better off without that stuff for keeping the wires tidy and it not looking like spaghetti in there.

Oh 1 more question about wiring.
In the Kelly manual it shows that right after the key switch there is a fuse before it goes to PWR on the controller, but on the diagram(s) it shows 2 different rated fuses.
Diagram #1 - Section 3.2.2 page 18 of manual (full wiring): it shows a 2A fuse
Diagram #2 - Section 4.4 page 30 of manual (wiring of the Controller, Motor, Hall Sensors, Throttle, Key Switch, Main 400A Fuse, Battery Pack): it shows a 2-5A fuse
Anyone know if there is a reason for that? Should I just go with the 5A so I'm not blowing 2A fuses right and left? Not sure figured I'd ask if anyone knows why they have 2 options.

*EDIT* Here is a picture of a 4-way fuse holder. Maybe that would be useful if I need multiple size fuses?
1712929967072.png



*EDIT* Here is a link for the controller manual (can't seem to copy/paste individual pics from it sorry):

*EDIT*ANT BMS wiring diagram:
1712884490083.png

Now I am just trying to think ahead for when I am setting my parameters for the BMS and controller.
The ANT BMS I ordered is rated for 340A continuous / 800+ peak for 30sec.
My controller is rated for 190A continuous / 360A peak for 1min.

What would be the best parameters to set the BMS and controller at for my 3kw QS hub motor so I am getting good power without killing anything. I have the Nissan Leaf modules. I believe they are good for 200A continuous and they can peak out around 500A, I read here in a spec sheet someone had posted but I do not know 100% for certain if that was confirmed. I can't find a full data/spec sheet for them. I am sure they have a good enough output though. I'm assuming they are capable enough for my needs.

*EDIT* I also found this Accelerator unit and cable line on Amazon:
I think it is similar to the one previously mentioned. I am thinking about getting it but I am not sure how to connect it or what to do. Would it be difficult to switch my current throttle to this style? Or is it plug and play. It looks like one end of the cable goes to the throttle, and the other end of the cable goes to the box. Then the small throttle wires just hook up the way they normally should right? I am a little confused.
1712930128675.png



Thanks everyone.
 
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I like that remote throttle set-up, you can tuck it away where it's dry and not have to worry about full throttle in the rain due to water intrusion into the hall sensor throttle on the handlebar. Any links to it? Thanks.
 
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