Are there different KT display lead standards?

[Everso]

Hi all,

bit of a head scratcher here. I just bought a new controller (KT- 22A) to replace one that flooded. The new one does indeed say it's a KT-22A and all looks good apart form the socket for the T4 extension lead. The old plug/socker is different. Both round and same diamater but the old one has 7 holes round the outside with 1 in the middle - the new one has 8 round the outside with another one in the middle - not cerntal but towards the top - as per the pictures.

So ... are there different standards? Can I get a simple adapter to convert between the two (if so what do I need to search for).

If they are different standards then I will send this one back but what do I need to check when I order a new one to make sure I get the right type?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Everso

 

[abagofcells]

I don´t know if I would call it standards, because various brands use a lot of different connectors and pinouts. The one on your new controller matches all the KT controllers I brought from new. But counting in the controllers I have, that where already on bikes, I've seen at least 4 different connectors, not including the one on your old controller.

I don't think there's an adapter available, but didn't the new controller come with a cable that goes from that connector and branches out to various other connectors for display, brake sensors and lights? Maybe just use that, the display usually uses a green 5 pin connector, and brake sensors and lights only use two wires each and are easy to cut and solder another connector to.

 

[Everso]

I don´t know if I would call it standards, because various brands use a lot of different connectors and pinouts. The one on your new controller matches all the KT controllers I brought from new. But counting in the controllers I have, that where already on bikes, I've seen at least 4 different connectors, not including the one on your old controller.

I don't think there's an adapter available, but didn't the new controller come with a cable that goes from that connector and branches out to various other connectors for display, brake sensors and lights? Maybe just use that, the display usually uses a green 5 pin connector, and brake sensors and lights only use two wires each and are easy to cut and solder another connector to.

Thanks for the confirmation I was not going mad. I have sent the old one back ... Now all I need to do isfind one that match my existing setup. I am wondering if it might be easier to buy a new lead at the same time ... displats and throttles seem to prety much standard ... the hunt continues.

 

[E-HP]

displats and throttles seem to prety much standard ...

There are no standards. Standards exist in countries that are focused on protecting consumer and worker safety and are willing to create an authority to maintain the standards with companies willing to follow the standard.

 

[Everso]

There are no standards. Standards exist in countries that are focused on protecting consumer and worker safety and are willing to create an authority to maintain the standards with companies willing to follow the standard.

As I am finding out - can't find a controller in this config anywhere. I am thinking of getting a controller and new 1T5 lead. The controller and display should work as they at least seem "standard"ish.

 

[amberwolf]

If you don't get the controller and display as a set, the likelihood of them working together is low (except within the specific brand, but even that is not guaranteed). Different displays and controllers have different protocols, data sets, etc., so in general most of the different ones can't talk to each other even if the wiring and connectors are the same and plug in and turn on.

The KT controllers work with KT LCDs; anything else is unlikely unless someone has specifically posted a working combination *and source for the parts* as different sellers might have different firmware for one reason or another.


If you don't mind some rewiring it is likely but not guaranteed that the KT LCD you (probably) have now can work with a newer KT controller, so you could buy the mating connector for whichever side you like, then splice that into your existing cable on that side, or solder the wires directly to the device board. You'd need to open the device to trace the wires to be sure you are connecting them to the right place, vs the pinout of that particular connector type for the KT's.

 

[Everso]

If you don't get the controller and display as a set, the likelihood of them working together is low (except within the specific brand, but even that is not guaranteed). Different displays and controllers have different protocols, data sets, etc., so in general most of the different ones can't talk to each other even if the wiring and connectors are the same and plug in and turn on.

The KT controllers work with KT LCDs; anything else is unlikely unless someone has specifically posted a working combination *and source for the parts* as different sellers might have different firmware for one reason or another.


If you don't mind some rewiring it is likely but not guaranteed that the KT LCD you (probably) have now can work with a newer KT controller, so you could buy the mating connector for whichever side you like, then splice that into your existing cable on that side, or solder the wires directly to the device board. You'd need to open the device to trace the wires to be sure you are connecting them to the right place, vs the pinout of that particular connector type for the KT's.

AmbewWolf - yeha - very much agree with you. I think I am going to buy a KT controller with matching lead. That should mate with the KT display and Bafang motor .... pleaase god let it work. I wil also be moving the controller from the old "waterproof" box into the rack mounted battery box - that at least I know is solid. Temperature controll may be an issue but can be monitored by a sensor and controlled by opening the lid when it's hot.

 

[amberwolf]

Remember that anything inside the battery box will add heat to the battery itself, along with the heat the battery generates on it's own.

If the environmental conditions you're in aren't cold, this will age the battery faster than normal. How much faster...you'd have to have two identical packs (at minimum) to find out for sure, but it will be more the higher the temperatures.

The same is true of the parts in the controller (especially electrolytic capacitors).

 

[amberwolf]

Regarding what parts to buy, rather than praying it will work, if you buy a new *display* from the same place you bought the new controller from, for the specific controller you bought, then you have an extremely high likelihood of it working.

Buying yet another new controller for a display that you've already seen has a different connector than your first new controller seems likely to have the same results? Of course, you can first just verify with the seller if the connector are at least identical (via pictures you can ask them to send you before you buy).

If the only problem is the interconnect cable, you could see about finding the proper interconnect cable between the controller and the rest of the bike...but keep in mind that if it is an OEM bike (prebuilt by a company rather than DIY), they could have had everything made with completely custom connectors, and nothing you find out there might fit. In that event, you would either have to make your own interconnect cable out of your existing one plus connector(s) that fit(s) the new part(s), or replace all the parts on the bike that wont' plug in to the new stuff. (that could include literally everything on the bike).

 

[fill]

That looks like a socket intended to plug into a 1 in 5 extension cable not a 1 in 4, if so your controller also has limited light power output?

If i am correct you should also have an extra 2 pin red? julet socket exiting the controller intended to power the rear light. or perhaps a 2 pinjst/higo connector which will show battery voltage when lights are on (hold up for 2 secs on the controller)

check the pictures of the 1 into 5 cable ads for the 9pin connector..

 

[motomech]

"Standards, we don't need no stinking standards.".

 

[Everso]

That looks like a socket intended to plug into a 1 in 5 extension cable not a 1 in 4, if so your controller also has limited light power output?

If i am correct you should also have an extra 2 pin red? julet socket exiting the controller intended to power the rear light. or perhaps a 2 pinjst/higo connector which will show battery voltage when lights are on (hold up for 2 secs on the controller)

check the pictures of the 1 into 5 cable ads for the 9pin connector..

You are indeed correct... It looks like a 1T5 with a red light socket. However searching for a 1T5 Controller I have not found any with the same connector I have. I think a controller with included lead is the way to go.