Bafang BBSxx - fault finding and fixes

Hi,
I am new at this forum and new Owner of a bb02 48v, 500w, serial 1511250371 model mark K5NCR0F0205, 48v 11.6Ah battery.
I use IT for commute on rodes only and only PAS , no thottel installed.
I have useed it for abort 400 km with now problem, but until now.
After a few km of gently riding the motor starts jerking heavely (Norml cadens ). I cycle to work without assistanse.
From work it works for about 10km then it starts the same again?
I try to swith if /on but no. After a couple of atempt the is now assistans at all. when i get home i try to conect the throttel to if that works. But it only give smal 1hz jerks in the garage, when i try to ride not power what so Ever.
The conditions was quite wet and i suspekt it have some thing to do with this but i dont know?
I have been Reading and searching this forum but not found Any description on this problem.
Any help or tips on how to pinpoint this ?
Thanks in advanced !
Anders /sweden
 
First time poster ... thanks guys for all the amazing information here. What an incredible resource this place is.

I purchased a 48 volt BBS02 set to 18 amps from Paul/em3ev thankfully so given the good feedback he has received by other people here I am hopefully he will see me right.
I received the kit initially minus a speed sensor before Christmas so had to be patient while a new one was shipped.

I've done just 154km on it with a few test runs and just one return commute to work 29km each way over a 400m climb ~ 10% the steep way and a great long descent. My unit is serial number is 1510260264 - so from my reading here it was made 26th October 2015 - presumably with the new mosfets. I wonder... perhaps this was this a Friday and the guys were keen to knock off? No it was a Monday .... The motor was ridiculously quiet and got me to 45kmph on a 46T standard Bafang chainwheel and 11T rear in PAS level 2 (out of 5). Not really used the throttle a half twist - only tested a few times. I have 2 x hydraulic brake sensors and a C965 display. I am on a 14S pack which I only charge to 57v.

Riding on a flat river gravel track yesterday just 4km from home - which was down a 1km hill I - I had given it a short burst on PAS level 5 then after a couple of little slides on the gravel I decided better of it and changed back down to level 2 or 3. I had slowed to get through a pedestrian/bike gate (so no cars allowed on the track) and I'll admit I was in the wrong gear not the highest gear but perhaps a couple of cogs away from it. Pushing hard to get going again I heard some gnashing of gears and all assist gone. I pedalled up to speed but no assist. I tried the throttle and I could hear some gear crashing but no drive - then nothing. The motor is now dead. The display comes on. Disconnecting battery and reconnecting - display comes on but not PAS/throttle/nor walk assist - not even a click which has been described as a symptom of a controller failure. Testing the battery voltage after I manually pedalled back the 4km with some walking up the last km - 56v - so not low voltage cut out - I think set to 41v. I disconnected brake cut offs... still no joy. Sounded mechanical failure through which has led to controller cut off. The display shows up just fine :)

Appreciate any thoughts....
 
Well the good news is Paul has a USA warranty station. Sounds like a secondary shaft fail. Off to the warranty station. One bit of advise, IMO, you should request a new replacement. We've seen returns from repair being continued problems. See "Bono" threads.Some builds are just bad. The nature of the beast. A motor that new failing catastrophically ought to be replaced. Not repaired. Just my opinion. But I'd insist. Next one check lubrication before installing. Did you tale it off and look at the gears and the level of lubrication? If you do be careful removing the plastic cover, they break easily.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=58898&start=725#p1140666

Speedmd is one of the best at diagnosing, I'm sure he'll be along soon!

Please go to control panel and add your location. You might be lucky enough to have another builder close by.
 
I've not had it apart and will wait for a response from em3ev. So I am not aware of the state of the grease in the motor - I think I will grease up as per Bruno's video when I am operational again. Yes replacement would seem the equitable response. Damned incovenient as it will be autumn before I am back on the road :-(
Added my location to my profile - Upper Hutt or Kapiti in New Zealand
 
I liked dealing with Paul. I like dealing with USA vendors much better. Especially when and if there is a problem! I'm so tired of the delayed responses from China. I guess Paul is making big moves forward with more customer support. That's very cool. But local is still better for me.
 
Hey guys, sorry if this has been covered however I don't have time to read pages 8-30+. Anyway I have the dreaded non-drive side shaft issue, I haven't taken the drive apart yet but I am absolutely sure of it after reading your guys' post & the fact that I tore everything apart except pulling the motor shaft out of the motor & everything checked out OK. The noise started as a low growling noise and is now more of a growling rattle noise, constant at low speed & sporadic at higher speeds. Anyway my question is, to do the LOCTITE FIX, do I need to order a new O-RING or is everyone bypassing putting one on there due to the loctite providing the "sticking" strength? If I need to put a new one on where can I buy/order one from (I'm in Florida, US) or is this the right one http://www.mcmaster.com/#5233t16/=111w1p6 ? Also I've been to a few automotive places & they don't carry the Loctite 641, I know I can order it online but would like to get this done as quickly as possible to avoid more damage to the shaft, does anyone know of any local places I might find it?
Thanks so much
 
rollinz said:
Hey guys, sorry if this has been covered however I don't have time to read pages 8-30+. Anyway I have the dreaded non-drive side shaft issue, I haven't taken the drive apart yet but I am absolutely sure of it after reading your guys' post & the fact that I tore everything apart except pulling the motor shaft out of the motor & everything checked out OK. The noise started as a low growling noise and is now more of a growling rattle noise, constant at low speed & sporadic at higher speeds. Anyway my question is, to do the LOCTITE FIX, do I need to order a new O-RING or is everyone bypassing putting one on there due to the loctite providing the "sticking" strength? If I need to put a new one on where can I buy/order one from (I'm in Florida, US) or is this the right one http://www.mcmaster.com/#5233t16/=111w1p6 ? Also I've been to a few automotive places & they don't carry the Loctite 641, I know I can order it online but would like to get this done as quickly as possible to avoid more damage to the shaft, does anyone know of any local places I might find it?
Thanks so much
Really? We all did! <wink> pull the drive side cover and regrease. Careful it's plastic and can be easily broken. Spend a few minutes looking for a picture or two and inspect the secondary gear. Google is your friend. http://bfy.tw/4AnX

Hopefully anyone reading these will stop when they first hear noise.
 
I've taken the motor apart recently looking for the problem to no avail so I re-greased everything and put it back together. My problem is the non-drive side shaft turning inside the bearing due to a worn or disintegrated O-Ring. I know this from plenty of research & youtube videos.
My question is when I loctite 641 the non-drive shaft should I replace the O-Ring or will the Loctite suffice & if I do need to replace the O-Ring, is this the correct part: http://www.mcmaster.com/#5233t16/=111x3st
 
When mine failed I disassembled, reassembled with locktite only, reassembled with grease for Africa...

Still made noise afterwards. The o-ring was non existent and there was metal fragments on the shaft. Paul of Em3ev sent me a replacement motor shaft and motor "cup" (that side of the motor), rinse repeat...

Still made noise afterwards, but appeared to be a different noise. The motor + replacement shaft was returned to Bafang for servicing.

I think I received a complete replacement BBS unit in return (not serviced or just bits replaced), rather than the same unit back as it appeared brand new (very clean, no scratches or wear and tear). Courtesy of a failed hard drive, I'll never know because I don't have the original serial number.

Answer: need to check for shaft/bearing play from movement within the bearing damaging either the inside of the bearing or the outside of the shaft, a new o-ring and locktite bearing goodness applied with an ear bud (DONT try to use the nozzle direct, it will apply way to much).

The real question actually is - is the motor shaft and bearing damaged? if so, you may need to replace these as well. No, I can't remember the tolerance off the top of my head, yes, its buried in the thread somewhere. I can't remember if I've read of a way to get the most inner bearing out (the one that connects with that end of the motor shaft), if you are facing issues with this still in the weekend I will look to it then (I still have the ruined motor shaft and cup).

Either way - where did you get your motor from? if they are not a dodgy vendor, they should be covering this under warranty.... (assuming they have one)
 
tomjasz said:
I liked dealing with Paul. I like dealing with USA vendors much better. Especially when and if there is a problem! I'm so tired of the delayed responses from China. I guess Paul is making big moves forward with more customer support. That's very cool. But local is still better for me.

Tom, you were not a typical customer for me at EM3ev. According to my records you placed 3 orders with me in early 2015. All were relatively small orders for a number of small parts (throttles, chainwheels, bags etc), in relatively small quantity, offered at a dealer discount (better than we would have for the quantity of parts), for you to re-sell. You had a lot of questions to go with these small orders. you chose budget shipping (SAL) which is relatively slow. You regularly complain about slow responses and shipping from EM3ev, but you have never once mentioned the nature of the orders you actually placed. When your customers ripped bags because they weren't fitted correctly, we gave you replacements FOC.

Just because someone is in the same country as you, doesn't mean they are gonna fix a warranty issue for you. We get warranty issues fixed locally in the USA, we also have someone in Europe and there are people i can call upon to assist in Australia too.

tomjasz said:
Well the good news is Paul has a USA warranty station. Sounds like a secondary shaft fail. Off to the warranty station. One bit of advise, IMO, you should request a new replacement. We've seen returns from repair being continued problems. See "Bono" threads.Some builds are just bad. The nature of the beast. A motor that new failing catastrophically ought to be replaced. Not repaired. Just my opinion. But I'd insist.

Telling someone they should insist on a replacement motor immediately, before so much as even looking at it internally is a bit much IMPO. I hope you give the same advice when the buyer bought from 1 of your local US vendors. I especially hope you give the same advice when someone from outside the USA buys from 1 of your US vendors, then they can experience paying the round trip shipping costs (we generally pay the return cost, including internationally), to receive back a broken motor, like we do.
 
cell_man said:
... there are people i can call upon to assist in Australia too.

I'd love to know who they are. Paul, have you considered selling an extended warranty or alternatively, a package to prepay for local servicing?

I suspect my BBS01 will be on the return ship again in the near future and I would rather avoid international shipping for everyone involved. Just food for thought, if you are going to have local people, seems like there could be a service side with recurring revenue for your business....

Alternatively, I would be keen for any form of Bafang servicing training supervised by a EM3EV approved local agent? Happy to pay for it if need be, its the prior issue with the drive and not really diagnosing it in the end irked me to no end previously. :evil:
 
cell_man said:
tomjasz said:
I liked dealing with Paul. I like dealing with USA vendors much better. Especially when and if there is a problem! I'm so tired of the delayed responses from China. I guess Paul is making big moves forward with more customer support. That's very cool. But local is still better for me.

Tom, you were not a typical customer for me at EM3ev. According to my records you placed 3 orders with me in early 2015. All were relatively small orders for a number of small parts (throttles, chainwheels, bags etc), in relatively small quantity, offered at a dealer discount (better than we would have for the quantity of parts), for you to re-sell. You had a lot of questions to go with these small orders. you chose budget shipping (SAL) which is relatively slow. You regularly complain about slow responses and shipping from EM3ev, but you have never once mentioned the nature of the orders you actually placed. When your customers ripped bags because they weren't fitted correctly, we gave you replacements FOC.

Just because someone is in the same country as you, doesn't mean they are gonna fix a warranty issue for you. We get warranty issues fixed locally in the USA, we also have someone in Europe and there are people i can call upon to assist in Australia too.

tomjasz said:
Well the good news is Paul has a USA warranty station. Sounds like a secondary shaft fail. Off to the warranty station. One bit of advise, IMO, you should request a new replacement. We've seen returns from repair being continued problems. See "Bono" threads.Some builds are just bad. The nature of the beast. A motor that new failing catastrophically ought to be replaced. Not repaired. Just my opinion. But I'd insist.

Telling someone they should insist on a replacement motor immediately, before so much as even looking at it internally is a bit much IMPO. I hope you give the same advice when the buyer bought from 1 of your local US vendors. I especially hope you give the same advice when someone from outside the USA buys from 1 of your US vendors, then they can experience paying the round trip shipping costs (we generally pay the return cost, including internationally), to receive back a broken motor, like we do.
If you have to color the facts and and make disparaging comments, I think it speaks to your model. Actually 4 orders direct including my first bbs01 and battery followed by 3 or 4 parts and bag orders. Not without problems, and the reason for a half dozen emails, and one $20 bag replacement. Near $2000. Followed by several more of your batteries and motors from your USA agent. We had BBSHD units available weeks if not months earlier. Every one of my USA purchases were every bit as well supported and faster than the SAL shipping you recommended. It was never price driven or I wouldn't have purchased from you and Lectric. But now we have Empowered, Biktrix, Cali eBikes, hi-powered cycles, and more in North America.

Now be nice and cut the snarky belittling responses. There are choices in 2016, in the USA. FFS Cali eBikes is your agent. Best vendor ever, BTW. They all directly support local economies. Important to some of us, especially given the level of service. None compete with you foreign market, so what's the beef?
 
tomjasz said:
If you have to color the facts and and make disparaging comments, I think it speaks to your model. Actually 4 orders direct including my first bbs01 and battery followed by 3 or 4 parts and bag orders. Not without problems, and the reason for a half dozen emails, and one $20 bag replacement. Near $2000. Followed by several more of your batteries and motors from your USA agent. We had BBSHD units available weeks if not months earlier. Every one of my USA purchases were every bit as well supported and faster than the SAL shipping you recommended. It was never price driven or I wouldn't have purchased from you and Lectric. But now we have Empowered, Biktrix, Cali eBikes, hi-powered cycles, and more in North America.

Now be nice and cut the snarky belittling responses. There are choices in 2016, in the USA. FFS Cali eBikes is your agent. Best vendor ever, BTW. They all directly support local economies. Important to some of us, especially given the level of service. None compete with you foreign market, so what's the beef?

I didn't say anything snarky or belittling in my previous post and I've never done anything wrong to you in the past, not so I could understand why you feel the need to continuously go on about how various US vendors are much better than us. Anything you ever contacted me about, I reacted to and did my best to fix, you were never ignored, every email was responded to (and the response times weren't that long either). I even saw an email in Sept. 2015 from you, where you were complimenting me on how I dealt with a certain situation with a certain vendor, and we chatted in a friendly way. I didn't realize previously, but yes you did buy a kit and battery in 2014. There was a small problem (as is often the case with the BBS kits), which was dealt with under warranty. You can't have been unhappy about the support you received, or you wouldn't have come to me to buy parts for re-sale, later.

I don't really get the comment about our model. My model is to answer enquiries, answer questions, fix whatever issues arise, try to innovate, make the best products we can (as we do manufacture all our battery packs), do our best to keep all customers happy and satisfied. We've been doing this for close to 5 years (after landing in China with 2 bags and some savings, 6.5 years ago) and you'd have to look hard to find someone that has an issue with their dealings with EM3ev. I never recommended SAL shipping to you, it was the cheapest option available and you wanted to minimise costs. Why would I recommend SAL shipping so the customer can save 10USD (compared to DHL) and then complain it's slow? DHL takes about 1 week and rarely has an issue, we always prefer customers to use courier shipping. I looked back at those emails in early 2015, you seemed kind of unhappy at times, but we didn't do anything particularly terrible and there were no major problems that I could see. I just wish you would let whatever you have against me, go. If I have said or done anything to you, I apologise.

For the record, I want to support small businesses in the USA and elsewhere (and I said absolutely nothing negative towards US suppliers in my previous message), I also want to make the best batteries we can and hopefully provide them to forward thinking small business', that can see the value in what we do. I don't believe it is such a terrible thing to offer a slightly cheaper product than a local supplier, as we need to do that to compensate for the inconvenience of buying Internationally. We offer dealer discounts and I'd love to move away from a direct to customer and more a business to business operation.

I would say that we most certainly support your favourite supplier, Doug from Cali Ebikes. We provide him with parts that would be almost impossible to source through normal channels. Doug is not an "EM3ev dealer", he can source parts from wherever he wants, but he chooses to stick with us. Doug is a customer and a friend, we co-operate in what he says is a "Mutually Beneficial Way". We had 100mm and 120mm BBS02 conversion parts made for Doug at a not inconsiderable cost. Instead of ripping off his methods, we made something new (together with him) and I've given him the parts so he can compete against those that did copy him. We also give Doug very good prices, provided parts under warranty whenever they were required (plus some) and a whole lot more that is nobody else's business, except ours. I resent the implication, that it's me that is hurting Doug or other US vendor's business. IMO it is other US vendors that will hurt Doug and other small US businesses in their race to the bottom, with their "reasonable pricing". I don't go round rubbishing other vendors publicly. I don't send threatening emails to vendors when they dare to be cheaper than them (like a certain US vendor did to me recently).

I hope we can be friendly again, like we always were :)
 
Hoping someone else solved this problem. I am getting a fair bit of gear noise in the final reduction. If I hold the small gear in place and rotate the big gear there is a slight amount of play and an audible clank noise as the gears slap in place. The noise while running just sounds like that noise sped up. So obviously the gear mesh is the problem. This drive only has about 500miles on it. If I pack it full of grease like crazy the noise briefly goes away until it manages to squeeze it all out. Any ideas? Also, When the motor warms up I can get an annoying vibration in the pedals when riding throttle only.
 
LyonNightroad said:
Hoping someone else solved this problem. I am getting a fair bit of gear noise in the final reduction. If I hold the small gear in place and rotate the big gear there is a slight amount of play and an audible clank noise as the gears slap in place. The noise while running just sounds like that noise sped up. So obviously the gear mesh is the problem. This drive only has about 500miles on it. If I pack it full of grease like crazy the noise briefly goes away until it manages to squeeze it all out. Any ideas? Also, When the motor warms up I can get an annoying vibration in the pedals when riding throttle only.

I'm guessing I should try a new pinion gear?
 
Could someone confirm the head size of the screwdriver I require to remove the hex bolts for the controller please.

I'd rather buy one high quality screwdriver, than a set containing a bunch of low quality ones.
 
Hi guys,

I purchased a 48 volt BBS02 750w and 16.5ah triangle battery from Paul/em3ev/cell_man in October 2014, see here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=63927

So in the last 16 months I have only covered about 900km's but the bike and kit still runs flawlessly. I love it. However, the motor gets very hot to touch after a decent ride and always has. I'm just wondering if there's any preventative measures to ensure longevity of the motor?

The controller and setup is stock standard as the day it arrived.

thanks
 
I have a BBS02 with a C961 controller. When I press the power button, the display no longer turns on. It worked about 4 days ago on my commute home. I've checked the battery and all connectors.

Is my controller busted?

What should I do to diagnose the problem? I have access to a multimeter.
 
bmurray7 said:
I have a BBS02 with a C961 controller. When I press the power button, the display no longer turns on. It worked about 4 days ago on my commute home. I've checked the battery and all connectors.

Is my controller busted?

What should I do to diagnose the problem? I have access to a multimeter.
I see on Google earth that California is a big place, but if you are anywhere near Castro Valley, maybe you could pop the bike into Matt at EMPowered Cycles

I'm sure he'd be happy to take a look and would have all the equipment for a quick diagnosis.
 
Not necessarily. Could be your battery doesn't work. Can be any number of things, from a fried bms, to a loose connector..?
 
bmurray7 said:
I have a BBS02 with a C961 controller. When I press the power button, the display no longer turns on. It worked about 4 days ago on my commute home. I've checked the battery and all connectors.

Is my controller busted?

What should I do to diagnose the problem? I have access to a multimeter.
Hi. Could be your battery. Have you tested your kit with another battery?
 
31 Pages of comments, so I only read the first and last page.

We are asking for the findings of those 31 pages to be summarised into known faults, perhaps as a new sticky when it is compiled.

In January 2013, we visited the Bafang factory to sort out a CST issue, and their rep showed us the prototype BBS01. Even riding in a stiff wind below freezing in a suit and tie, it was a winner. "Send us the first ones you make". They did. In April 2013 we took delivery of the aluminium bodied version 1 models in 250 and 350W. I did some of the first postings on endless-sphere giving first impression reviews. After six months of testing, we were sufficiently impressed to put together a group buy in late 2013. We are a charitable trust with a focus on alternative modes of transport in New Zealand, and a group buy is a way to stimulate the market so that shops will see the product and then take it on. Thankfully, the group buy got the Version 2.0 steel bodied motors, because soon after the group buy the aluminium prototypes failed. Bafang replaced one under warranty, but not the other. We're a bit grumbly about that one since we paid real money for it and it failed within the warranty period, but I digress. The BBS01 group buy worked famously, and the motors are seen everywhere in NZ now.

In 2016, we are looking to put together another group buy to get more people on bikes, this time with classic bike frames made in Italy. Our rant is that most ebikes are awful bikes, but very few people even know what a great bike feels like (of you want to experience it, buy a Bella Ciao in Europe or find an old Raleigh DL1 and restore it). Most bikes sold in stores are either for off-road or road racing, or "hybrids" which are a bit like 2WD SUV's - look tough but will never be driven off road, and are not that comfortable on road. As part of this latest group buy, we contracted with a woman who writes a blog on great bicycles to design the geometry, and are now in the process of pulling it all together (a lot of work since there is no money to do it. It is being done for the love of it in our spare time, but hey, that's what charity is about... donations gratefully received if anyone is interested).

We had presumed the BBS01 set to 300W would be the choice of motor. However, as this 31 page thread suggests the BBS01 motor may be beginning to show some cracks, both figuratively and literally.

A number of shops that saw our BBS motors in use thanks to the group buy and began to import them for their businesses are now saying that about 10% are coming back for repairs or replacement, including four from our group buy of 27 motors (seven of which went to Paul to convince him to carry them). As a group buy direct from the factory, each member is on their own, and rather than each owner try to get satisfaction from Bafang, they have been taking them to the local shop that takes them apart and fixing them for a fee. From what I hear from the shops, the bearings are not great and one shop has taken to make its own more substantial seals to keep the dust out. I am told they are replacing bearings with quality ones like Timken or SKF. In some of the comments on this thread, I read about O rings and shafts, for example. I read the exchange between lurkin and cell man (and have to say, I side with Paul... his support is outstanding), but I have concerns about the necessity of warranty repairs. The wholesaler taking care of the motor they sell is not the issue, it is the manufacturer and their product I am fact-finding. One shop is saying we should go back to hub motors so there will not be any warranty issues. I shudder at the thought because for the ordinary person on the street, the mid motor is so much better when it is working.

Alarm bells are ringing. We don't want to put together a group buy and find people do not get a great bike because the motor will fail at 500 kilometers. One option is to deliver each bike with one motor kit installed, and a second bare motor as a spare, sort of like the spare tyre that comes with cars because in the old days, tyres went flat. Under this theory, the motor is presented as a disposable, like the battery which only has X number of charging cycles. Another option is to see if we can specify a run of motors that have better bearings and seals, more grease and whatever, and pay an engineer to examine all the motors in the factory at the time our order is made. Alternatively we can either look at a different manufacturer or forget the whole thing.

So here is our question:

Can members of this forum please summarise all of what might be considered engineering or manufacturing weaknesses in the BBS line? How many miles or kilometers do these motors run before something internal breaks or wears out?

Please try to discern the difference between abuse and factory weakness and refrain from citing failures due to abuse, stupid programming or extreme conditions (riding in the ocean is not considered normal, even though some of the idiots who rent bikes from our local shop express surprise when the motors stop running after being submerged in salt water). Also please specify the serial number of the failure so it can be determined if this is something that has been improved since.

We have been in email communication with one of the owners of Bafang, although not recently, and we do find they are open to feedback. Obviously, getting the reputation for selling motors that wear out prematurely can turn the market away from Bafang, and there is more competition now than in 2013.

If the answers can then be summarised, perhaps a much shorter sticky can be created so the big picture long-term assessment is accessible. Reading 31 pages is opaque.

Thanking you all in advance.

PS: For those interested in the group buy, see http://slowcycles.com
 
bmurray7 said:
I have a BBS02 with a C961 controller. When I press the power button, the display no longer turns on. It worked about 4 days ago on my commute home. I've checked the battery and all connectors.

Is my controller busted?

What should I do to diagnose the problem? I have access to a multimeter.
Hi bmurray7

Same thing happened to me the other day.

I have a 500w bbs02 with 36v 14.5ah battery. In my case though I have been pushing the config of the bafang to maximise acceleration.

My battery no longer powers up the system though when checked with a multimeter the readings are OK. I too checked all the cables & connections and they too are fine.

It's almost surely a fried BMS. I have renamed my bike "BMS burner".
 
greenspark said:
31 Pages of comments, so I only read the first and last page.

We are asking for the findings of those 31 pages to be summarised into known faults, perhaps as a new sticky when it is compiled.

Or you could read the Bafang section of the wiki, which is where I have already summarised it and other relevant threads. The only bit missing is an update for the Gen 2 units (might of done this already re BB sizing) and adding programming (which I don't think you really need).

Ditto if you want to hear the words of an actual long term, long mileage tester of BBS01, I am the person for that too.... or are you looking to a different BBS product?

To really get to the conclusion of your queries - yes, DD hub motors are considered more reliable but come at the penalty of efficiency loss and weight (handling effect). It's kind of an irrelevant comment to make if the decision to go with a mid drive has already been made - besides, its kinda true by definition (in general) for the most part so it's impossible to argue with. To contrary if you are still deciding hub/middrive then for commuting purposes the hub makes far more sense and is the reason I am switching to it in the long term. Power delivery no longer relies on the bikes drivetrain, reducing wear and maintenance expense. Reliability is improved by reducing complexity. They are cheap as is the controllers and other bits required to drive them. I could go on and on.

It really comes down to: what do your clients actually want? If its a middrive or the benefits of one (weight, efficiency), simplicity of installation (BBS are super straightforward), then sure, it makes perfect sense particularly if its for low usage i.e. having fun in the weekend etc. If its commuting... not really unless the weight / efficiency penalties of a hub are unbearable.
 
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