Lurkin
100 kW
Page 23 http://www.energiecycles.com/pdf/8FUNmanual.pdf
Bafang BBSxx - fault finding and fixes
- Thread starter Slowrider
- Start date
Gianvi
100 µW
- Joined
- May 20, 2016
- Messages
- 8
Tks Lurkin for reply, but i think is not the correct Manual.
I have C961 display on BBS02, so the manual i looked for is this one https://metallhase.at/Download/Bafang-BBS-C961-Manual.pdf and on last page there are the error codes : on error 8 they say Hall Sensor Abnormality.
Anyone that can locate this part on the motor and know if possible to sobsitute easily ?
Tks for helps
Gianvi
I have C961 display on BBS02, so the manual i looked for is this one https://metallhase.at/Download/Bafang-BBS-C961-Manual.pdf and on last page there are the error codes : on error 8 they say Hall Sensor Abnormality.
Anyone that can locate this part on the motor and know if possible to sobsitute easily ?
Tks for helps
Gianvi
Lurkin
100 kW
I would assume it is the hall sensors within the motor itself... sure, if you want to take the motor 'cup' off... There are three of them normally...
how old is your unit? If its recent, I would be contacting the dealer you bought it off. Oh I see, you have another motor. Probably better in reverse - try the other motor before disassembling anything. That will isolate to the motor unit. But yes, its not difficult to remove. After all, I managed it. You can see them round the edge of the ring in this photo ("H1" "H2" "H3"). These sense the position of the motor for the controller to apply current at the right timing, to propel you forwards just as they do with any other such motor.
Dealers don't generally 'fix' these - they would buy this section of the motor and replace it, as they did with mine for different reasons.
how old is your unit? If its recent, I would be contacting the dealer you bought it off. Oh I see, you have another motor. Probably better in reverse - try the other motor before disassembling anything. That will isolate to the motor unit. But yes, its not difficult to remove. After all, I managed it. You can see them round the edge of the ring in this photo ("H1" "H2" "H3"). These sense the position of the motor for the controller to apply current at the right timing, to propel you forwards just as they do with any other such motor.
Dealers don't generally 'fix' these - they would buy this section of the motor and replace it, as they did with mine for different reasons.
Lurkin
100 kW
Btw, you are assuming it is the hall that is the issue. I think it would probably state the same code if the wiring for the halls is damaged etc etc, so it may not be the halls at all? Not sure, only pulling it apart/testing will tell..
Gianvi
100 µW
- Joined
- May 20, 2016
- Messages
- 8
Super tks for fast reply.
I tried before disassembling the left part, to deconnect and reconnect all the plug that come from controller side, but nothing happened.
I will check abot wires if all ok.
But if not i will try to change the H1/2/3. Do you think the right way is to unscrew the green circular side where the H1/2/3 are placed, unsold the sensors and then reassemble the new one?
I saw oxide/rust inside the carter and parts, could be that damaged the sensors ?
I tried before disassembling the left part, to deconnect and reconnect all the plug that come from controller side, but nothing happened.
I will check abot wires if all ok.
But if not i will try to change the H1/2/3. Do you think the right way is to unscrew the green circular side where the H1/2/3 are placed, unsold the sensors and then reassemble the new one?
I saw oxide/rust inside the carter and parts, could be that damaged the sensors ?
Lurkin
100 kW
Rust = water
Water = short?
Depends if you are in a hurry or not. You said you have a spare motor - you can take this part from the other motor, test. If ok - the work on repairing this one.
Otherwise, it becomes more complex. You will need to work out what is actually wrong with the halls first - then fix that.
Be very, very careful with the phase wires. it is very very easy to cut the insulation with the motor case edge.
Water = short?
Depends if you are in a hurry or not. You said you have a spare motor - you can take this part from the other motor, test. If ok - the work on repairing this one.
Otherwise, it becomes more complex. You will need to work out what is actually wrong with the halls first - then fix that.
Be very, very careful with the phase wires. it is very very easy to cut the insulation with the motor case edge.
Lurkin
100 kW
If you take off the green board, could be easy to test back to the hall sensor. Inspect all plugs/sockets to ensure no damage. Test halls - Not sure how to do this, consult the internet/google? Should not be too hard, they are a simple device which reacts to magnetic fields. Replace if they are not working. Reassemble.
its key to identify what actually is causing the error, not just taking apart and guessing - otherwise you will do a lot of work and put it back together and it will not work, which will be frustrating for you.
its key to identify what actually is causing the error, not just taking apart and guessing - otherwise you will do a lot of work and put it back together and it will not work, which will be frustrating for you.
Lurkin
100 kW
Can you please take more pictures of it internally? I think you may have more to replace with the amount of rust in there.
Lurkin
100 kW
Kind of. If you look at your picture you will see a black outline around the cup - this is a rubber seal which seals this area when it is bolted to the case. Usually water issues are with the bearings in the crank spindle area, not the motor as it is reasonably well sealed.
Check to see if there is any nicks or damage to it - think about this when you are inspecting the rest as water is definitely getting in there. Mine did not have rust in it when I had it apart at ~3,500kms. what distance has yours done? do they salt the roads there? This may cause rust faster.
Check to see if there is any nicks or damage to it - think about this when you are inspecting the rest as water is definitely getting in there. Mine did not have rust in it when I had it apart at ~3,500kms. what distance has yours done? do they salt the roads there? This may cause rust faster.
Lurkin
100 kW
Make sure you inspect your crank bearings before you reassemble. If its that rusted in there, you may need to regrease and/or replace your crank bearings too.
tomjasz
1 GW
Shop got a motor back and water got in a BBSHD from a bad gasket that was damaged by user. Damaged the motor. Looking at the picture I see what looks like rust in several places. Including in the motor. Had to be certain from a low resolution picture.
I've seen quite a few error 8 reports, from just a loose connection of the hall sensor wires.
I've seen quite a few error 8 reports, from just a loose connection of the hall sensor wires.
tomjasz
1 GW
That's good to read please come back and update your work? You have helped me to learn something!Gianvi said:
I just purchased a 500W BBS02 and started testing it.
I run across the following problem - speed sensor stopped working.
The red light on the sensor is off and the display (C961) is showing 0,00 km/h.
I noticed it when testing various configurations with programming cable.
Could some settings cause the sensor to stop working?
The motor seems to be ok, both in throttle and PAS mode.
Kris.
I run across the following problem - speed sensor stopped working.
The red light on the sensor is off and the display (C961) is showing 0,00 km/h.
I noticed it when testing various configurations with programming cable.
Could some settings cause the sensor to stop working?
The motor seems to be ok, both in throttle and PAS mode.
Kris.
Gianvi
100 µW
- Joined
- May 20, 2016
- Messages
- 8
Hi Kris,
no, i don't think programming with USB can stop teh sensor.
Only thing check wheel size
The Magnet is well aligned with the sensor?
I have not understand if the motor works and you can use the bike, also with your problem.
No error message on display ?
Gianvi
no, i don't think programming with USB can stop teh sensor.
Only thing check wheel size
The Magnet is well aligned with the sensor?
I have not understand if the motor works and you can use the bike, also with your problem.
No error message on display ?
Gianvi
Gianvi said:
I just found the reason...and I feel dummy : )
I had to shorten the chain as it was too loose. That required
moving the wheel a little bit. After that magned and sensor
weren't aligned any more.
Thanks for your attention, I'm glad it's just my silly mistake.
At least now I know that the red light on the sensor turns on
after contact with the magned, not automatically when
I power up the unit.
Kris.
Has anyone had probs with the C961 switches becoming intermittant?
Ive now had to replace 2 out of the 3 , the power switch and the - switch.
Both suffered from water ingress due to poor waterproofing in the switch console.
When they become intermittant the controller appears to be malfunctioning, especially if the power switch is intermittant.
They are fairly easy to replace though.
Ive now had to replace 2 out of the 3 , the power switch and the - switch.
Both suffered from water ingress due to poor waterproofing in the switch console.
When they become intermittant the controller appears to be malfunctioning, especially if the power switch is intermittant.
They are fairly easy to replace though.
opperpanter
100 W
I have a problem with a little squeeking sound from my BBS02 750W when turning the pedals very slowly (engine off).
Not sure if you can hear it, but on my mobile phone I can hear the audio clearly:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4U_vuqzpTxw[/youtube]
Can't get the youtube link to work, so here it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4U_vuqzpTxw&feature=youtu.be
Any thoughts? First signs of internal wear?
Not sure if you can hear it, but on my mobile phone I can hear the audio clearly:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4U_vuqzpTxw[/youtube]
Can't get the youtube link to work, so here it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4U_vuqzpTxw&feature=youtu.be
Any thoughts? First signs of internal wear?
AF7JA
100 W
content removed, apparently "problems/faults and fixes" is reactive, not proactive.
opperpanter
100 W
This thread is about problems/faults and fixes. Not about installing new drivesAF7JA said:My Ba-Fang arrived yesterday.
Before mounting it, should I open it up and apply:
*white lithium grease to the plastic gears, and
*moly grease to the main drive gear;
* or put Mobilgrease 28 on both, as suggested in this article https://electricbike-blog.com/2015/12/23/mobilgrease-28-bbshdbbs02-because-a-good-mid-drive-is-better-seen-and-not-heard/
*or, just install it as it arrived?
My thoughts on this are split, there seems to be a strong consensus that some of the Ba-Fang units were not properly lubricated at the factory. Countering that is the many things are never quite the same after they have been taken apart and put back together.
Check another thread, for example: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=50104
AF7JA
100 W
opperpanter said:This thread is about problems/faults and fixes. Not about installing new drives
Check another thread, for example: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=50104
If all you had to say was "take your stupid question down the hall" then why did you find it necessary to quote it in its entirety?
I have removed the post that you found so inappropriate. Please remove it from your comment so that no one else is exposed to such an offensive post.
tomjasz
1 GW
He's a grump, there's a few. Let it roll. You don't have to be friends.AF7JA said:
