Balancing a bike wheel with solder???

John in CR

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My wheel is almost perfectly true both laterally and circular around the axle, close enough that I could only mess it up, but it's out of balance. I look up a DIY way to balance, spin the wheel and see where it settles to find the heavy point. This 20mm axle hub spins an amazingly long time BTW. Then wrap some thick solder around the nipple opposite the heavy point. Nice and easy and I now have a perfectly balanced wheel.

I'm doing this because the out of balance condition reared its ugly head with significant vibration at about 85mph and up. That means it's messing up my video for you guys, but needless to say I was nervous about the vibrating bouncing wheel at such high speed.

Now that the vibration will be gone for a more serious attempt at my bike's top speed, I'm concerned about one of the lengths of solder flying off. I found this method as one for an old school DIY method for balancing moto wheels, but I don't know if that's enough to not worry. I'm expecting 105mph, maybe even 110mph as a true top speed at this voltage. Should I secure the solder with more than it's tight wrap?

John
 
I`ve seen a few wheel weights come off while spin balancing a car wheel. Do not want to be inline with one when it goes.
Might try two weights in a y pattern with the heavy spot down, and move the weights from spoke to spoke to fine tune.
Once balanced you might want to lock the weight in place somehow.
 
Hi John in CR

Love the fast bike. I want one. Seriously. I am shopping for a reasonably cheap but suitable bike / frame now. Love the extended rear. May have to break out the old torches. Tell us more on the motor and if any are possible for mid drive adaptation.

On the balance fix, I would wrap some fine copper wire tightly around the nipple and solder it just enough to keep it from unwinding if you get into the weeds. Alternately just use a spot of green loctite on it as is, if you have it wrapped / balanced already. It will fill and harden enough (up to .03") that you will need you pliers to remove the wire when re treading /re balancing the wheel.
 
That's a very smart idea at the speeds you are attaining!

It's not a bad idea to put at least a bead of strong glue or epoxy on there to secure it.
 
Check for sticky mag wheel balance weights at the tire place across the street from you. Auto supplies should have them, Maybe. Mag wheels are catching on down here. If need be, I can have Ed mail down a couple sticks for future needs ?

If it is placed on the inside lip of the wheel, there is no way it can be thrown off. Icecube has it spot on. You nearly ALWAYS put balance weights in 2 places. You may be right on the money with one place. Is it not possible to connect both ends of the weight you made, using the soldering iron and melting them together ?
 
This is what I want to secure.


I like Speedmd's idea best. I don't have any green loctite....epoxies yes, but too brittle, especially on spokes which flex. My polyurethane glue is too liquid and then would bubble up too much. I like the thin strand copper...I was thinking some strong polyester thread I have, but I like the copper better, and add a dab of silicone worked in for insurance against either unraveling.

John
 
speedmd said:
Love the fast bike. I want one. Seriously. I am shopping for a reasonably cheap but suitable bike / frame now. Love the extended rear. May have to break out the old torches. Tell us more on the motor and if any are possible for mid drive adaptation.

We have 3 high efficiency hubbies and all are compact in relation to others. All are suited even better as a mid-drive than in-wheel. In wheel is just so easy. I need speed, total load, and terrain to make a recommendation for the best.

PM me.

John
 
I sencond Harolds stick on weighs...
but really the wire wrap you have prolly is alright as is. just a wrap with some decent strechy ellectrical tape will keep them put at low speed...& at high speed the centriphical force will do the rest.
I used to use spoke weights to ballance the wheels on my RD350's....

any tire shop should have something like these:
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/motorcycle-wheel-balancing-weights

these are what i have used in the past:
http://compare.ebay.com/like/330802665269?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

glorified fishing sinkers for the most part.....

I recomend a pr of boots for the speed run :mrgreen:
 
So, sticky weights on the inside of the rim between the spokes is the way to go?

I'll check the local shops.
 
I am curious how you go about testing for wheel balance; I've seen how a regular wheel can be balanced, but not a hub & wheel.

41reTb4nK%2BL._SX342_.jpg


Have you seen this... Bullet Weights 1-Pound Roll Hollow Core Lead Wire Fishing Line, 1/8-Inch

I prefer lead-free weights if they can be found.

Unbalanced... but then you already knew that :p
~KF
 
The sticky weights can come off pretty easily.

If you used a pencil torch, it would only take a split second to solder the ends of the solder rolls to the coil. They wouldn't come off for sure then.
 
Thread small pieces of copper tube onto the spokes? Stacks of washers? Pita of course, but they would stay on. Balance with solder, the weigh the solder to get how much copper to use instead of the solder.
 
I don't have any green loctite.

Hi John

Get your self a small tube of the stuff. My favorite is the number 290 http://www.all-spec.com/products/29021.html?gclid=COO2u8DiqbcCFegWMgodUXcAyQ

At the speeds you are going, I would use it on near everything. :lol:

Little goes a long way and It never goes bad. I have had stuff more than twenty years old that worked as well as new stuff. Shelf life labeling allows for some good buying opportunities. Is a bit different to use than normal aerobic adhesives but it adds some amazing benefits to light weight builds and wicks nicely into some amazingly small areas. Just heat it and it releases like the day you assembled it.

Looking forward to working with one of your super motors.
 
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