BBSHD Voltage Problem Firmware Update & Instructions

[dmitry92-92]

I'm wondering if anyone else is having a problem with motor power very briefly cutting out at high cadence pedal assist.

I have the same problem with bbshd and eggrider v2 display. After updating this firmware (CRR10E4830E105027.1_(latest)_190927.bin).
But the only thing is that for this it is not necessary to pedal fast.

The only thing that has helped me so far is changing the Slow-Start Mode - 1 parameter, it used to be 7 and there were no problems

 

[Royaldelux1987]

Unfortunately I will have to be the first to be unlucky after the update, after so many success stories I also flashed my BBSHD hoping to get the 30A instead of the standard 28A. I am currently getting a Code E30 "communication error" with all firmware files posted here. Flashing goes fine, in the Bafang config tool I also see the 30A neatly, but when the Ebike starts up I get the E30 code after 5 seconds.

Is there anyone who owns the original firmware? Id first like to go back to a working situation before attempting new firmware.

 

[Royaldelux1987]

False alarm, swapped out my GF display with mine and the bike works perfect. Probably a broken wire or damaged display connector.

 

[tomjasz]

EggRider is another layer of unneeded complexity to me. I supported dozens of sales with California eBike and have had nearly every BSxx version made. I just don't see the need or utility. I gave my samples away. and refunded a dozen or more buyers that discovered the complexity wasn't worth the energy There's enough support to simply use the available programming to satisfy my every need. I guess gadgets are popular. But as always YMMV.

 

[Northy]

Actual firmware for the controller. NICE!!
First of all, I ride with a 48v battery what is the 52v mod actually?
We have 3 bbshd's in the family.

I bought mine from Luna 2 years ago.

My sister bought her bbshd a few months ago from aliexpress. Here hardware version and firmware version is different then mine. Her bbshd PAS mode is more fluent, and no overshoot. I used the same controller settings to test this.

Will maybe this firmware version also fix other issues?

This also cures the fault code 10 on a new controller, at least it did mine!!

To do this on a bare controller, one would need to either:
-- make a cable to go from the controller's LCD port to an LCD-style connector (or whatever style is on the USB-serial adapter being used) and to battery power,
or
-- hook up teh controller to the regular wiring harness for battery power and the LCD connector.

The same setup would allow you to test it, as it should no longer display the voltage error (though it may have others for the unconnected parts).

It's possible the update wont' even work without the rest of the stuff connected, but I doubt that, since they probably use the same procedure to program them at the factory (no idea what, if anything, that they actually test, though).

If you end up trying this, please note down the steps (and wiring of harness created for it, with pictures if possible) and post them here to be added as an alternate set of instructions.

thank you so much gu

 

[Northy]

Don't use the updated stc program, it doesn't work, use 6.86 that definitely works

 

[SnowDrifter]

I tried this, had a 30h error on MCU STC15W4K56S4

Originally set out to tackle the weird throttle behavior in some BBSHD units. The one where when pedaling, throttle turns into an on/off switch.

Managed to rescue the controller + resolve throttle behavior with a project on github

Hopefully this helps anyone who goes down the rabbit hole

GitHub - danielnilsson9/bbs-fw: Open source firmware for multiple electric bike motor controllers.

Open source firmware for multiple electric bike motor controllers. - danielnilsson9/bbs-fw

github.com

 

[sinkking]

Does anyone know if 60v batteries charged with a 63v charger will definitely work?

Edit- I will wire some lights to drain it if it's 1v too high

 

[amberwolf]

Does anyone know if 60v batteries charged with a 63v charger will definitely work?

Do you mean a 60v *nominal* pack, or a 60v *fully charged* pack, and do you mean charging it to actual 63v, or with a charger intended for a 63v *nominal* pack (which would have a higher full voltage than that)?

 

[sinkking]

Do you mean a 60v *nominal* pack, or a 60v *fully charged* pack, and do you mean charging it to actual 63v, or with a charger intended for a 63v *nominal* pack (which would have a higher full voltage than that)?

Exactly, 60v charged to 63v (80% which is best for battery longevity). A full charge for 60v battery is 67._v, 80% is 63v which is the supposed max of the for bbs02 and bbdhd.

 

[Kyuzo]

Just to report here that CRR10E4830E105027.1_(latest)_190927.bin fixed my otherwise dead motor. (IAP15W4K61S4)
My original controller burned out, it was giving out about 33% of original power with max 10A.
New/replacement controller gave Error 10 - controller overheat, straight out of the box, tried to flash it with the firmware from goldenmotor but that just changed the error from 10 to 30 "communication error", also didn't have any battery voltage reported and no speed detection

Kudos to Tomblarom for sharing.

 

[Antec123]

Purchased a new 52v BBSHD with 52V battery recently and it came with a locked fw to 28A

I successfully flashed CRR10E4830E105027.1_(latest)_190927.bin and now have 30A available.

Bafang Config tool still shows nominal Voltage as 48V but if i was Luna branded Config tool is shows as "48v - 52V"

just to confirm, is the locked 28A firmware an older firmware or newest?

 

[zswman]

Just a note to thank everyone here, special shoutout to amberwolf for assembling all the initial info and tomblarom for landing the 190927 firmware. I can confirm I have also successfully flashed a C571-30-506 52v (28a limited) controller that had firmware V 1.0.0.4 on HW V1.5 (manufacturer "SZBF") that I recently purchased to replace my original gangsta 852-7-501 controller with V0.0.1.1.

Background on this is I had mistakenly labored under the assumption the bbshd would shut down under high temp conditions and finally got in a situation where that was proven to be untrue. After (apparently) overheating the motor and/or controller, the bike would turn for a minute or so (even up to full speed) then the motor would just go dead, no indication on the display or any other symptoms. Sometimes cycling the power brought it right back, sometimes just waiting a minute or so brought it back, but then it would shut down again. Since it had been almost 8 years since I built my bike I decided I would just tear the whole thing down to inspect/grease and see if I could figure out what had happened. Again since it had been so long I decided to replace the controller and the motor stator.

Just so everyone knows, the original version of the controller does not have a wire running to the 'T' pin on the motor stator hall sensor board, so there is no way to know (and shutdown) if the motor core overheats. The C571-30-506 DOES have a purple wire running to the white connector on the hall sensor board, but I immediately got the dreaded "error 10" message on the display and the motor wouldn't spin. Until I found this board (and others) I went down a rabbit hole since the over temp error was consistent w/ how I had treated the bike - so I tested the thermistor, wiring, tried disconnecting the purple wire (which then produced an error 11) and spun for a couple of days until I found this thread and worked up the courage to flash a brand new controller. Viola, error 10 gone, motor spins just fine using my 52v (56.9 measured) battery pack. Once I get my new nylon gear I'll reassemble and test under load, I'll probably swap back in the original controller (which ran just fine w/ 52v battery btw) just to isolate the problem between the stator and controller (and hopefully not the battery!). I'll report in again when I do - cheers all!

 

[tomjasz]

all the noise about 28A is truly kinda funny in my eyes. There's very little difference and some believe 28A will be the longer life motor. I sold scores and have owned 6. My latest version @28A propels me on my trike at 28-30MPH.

 

[rowd_22]

Thank you for posting this. Flashing the firmware on page 1 helped me out after I got a 30H error in my bbshd. Much appreciated!

 

[Matze_Senpaii]

all the noise about 28A is truly kinda funny in my eyes. There's very little difference and some believe 28A will be the longer life motor. I sold scores and have owned 6. My latest version @28A propels me on my trike at 28-30MPH.

it still feels like being scammed, because im spending more money for a 52v battery and then i have the same power output like a 48v battery. because 48v bbshd is 30a. anyways i flashed custom firmware now i have 33a and other features like cruise control and legal mode

 

[Diggs]

??????

volts x amps = watts

48v x 30a = 1440 watts
52v x 30a = 1560 watts

How can you say they are the same? Are you struggling to understand basic electronics?

 

[AZeBikeGuy]

??????

volts x amps = watts

48v x 30a = 1440 watts
52v x 30a = 1560 watts

How can you say they are the same? Are you struggling to understand basic electronics?

Are you?

52v x 28a = 1456 watts

 

[tomjasz]

??????

volts x amps = watts

48v x 30a = 1440 watts
52v x 30a = 1560 watts

How can you say they are the same? Are you struggling to understand basic electronics?

Marginal, I've had 4. My 48V 20650 pack is less the 2 MPH slower. Sheesh!