kmxtornado
10 kW
I need you as my consultant. Great build!
bmc trail fox with puma hub motor
- Thread starter izeman
- Start date
izeman
1 GW
update on torque arms. did drawing in autocad and sent the .dxf to a nice guy who did laser cutting of stainless steel for $30 for all four 
on the picture it looks a bit strange because of the grinding. but it all looks nice when you turn them a bit.
the open arms go on the inside directly to the frame, and on top of them there will be the closed type.
i soldered the two arms together so it's easier to install. i did polish them with grade 400 sand paper to look nicer. they really shine *ggg*
on the picture it looks a bit strange because of the grinding. but it all looks nice when you turn them a bit.
the open arms go on the inside directly to the frame, and on top of them there will be the closed type.
i soldered the two arms together so it's easier to install. i did polish them with grade 400 sand paper to look nicer. they really shine *ggg*
izeman
1 GW
i hope i can show some pictures with torque arms installed tomorrow.
i did some mistakes. made the holes a bit too small. i will have to do some more grinding.
i did some mistakes. made the holes a bit too small. i will have to do some more grinding.
SamTexas
1 MW
izeman said:update on torque arms. did drawing in autocad and sent the .dxf to a nice guy who did laser cutting of stainless steel for $30 for all four
That's extremely cheap, considering they're custom made.
Comment: I'm no mechanical engineer, but I can't help wondering if you really need 2 on each side. Looks to me 1 is more than sufficient.
Question: Why not have all four of them closed?
izeman
1 GW
SamTexas said:izeman said:update on torque arms. did drawing in autocad and sent the .dxf to a nice guy who did laser cutting of stainless steel for for all four
That's extremely cheap, considering they're custom made.
Comment: I'm no mechanical engineer, but I can't help wondering if you really need 2 on each side. Looks to me 1 is more than sufficient.
Question: Why not have all four of them closed?
yes. he's a guy form a german ebike forum and does that as a favor to the community.
those are 3mm thick. i'm quite sure that one closed arm on each side would be enough, but the space is quite limited, and i have to move them a bit away from the frame to install the closed arm, and so i use the open type as spacer
SamTexas
1 MW
izeman said:... away from the frame to install the closed arm, and so i use the open type as spacer
Ah, expensive spacer!
izeman
1 GW
SamTexas said:izeman said:... away from the frame to install the closed arm, and so i use the open type as spacer
Ah, expensive spacer!
it's not ONLY a spacer. it serves as torque arm as well
and as you already mentioned: the whole set was really cheap. so all four came for the price of two.i got it installed today. a really tight fit. really nice. i'll put connectors on it tomorrow and post some pictures.
btw: i lost the m14 nut
any idea where to get them cheap?edit: just found it in the pocket of my working trousers.
izeman
1 GW
update: torque arms installed
right side. nice tight fit and polished to shine
left side. with cabeling. i also swapped the disc rotor for a silver one.
safety first. thanks to china those are $1 only and quite loud. *ggg* ppl just don't expect a bike rider to be that fast.
installed a 3 mode switch. this does limit the power to 30% and 60%. don't think i'm gonna use that really often. also swapped all those cheap screws for stainless steel.
new cabeling. how do you like it? i'm sure if i go for the spiral look.
bike in all it's stealth glory. i'm finished with it (at least for that season)
right side. nice tight fit and polished to shine
left side. with cabeling. i also swapped the disc rotor for a silver one.
safety first. thanks to china those are $1 only and quite loud. *ggg* ppl just don't expect a bike rider to be that fast.
installed a 3 mode switch. this does limit the power to 30% and 60%. don't think i'm gonna use that really often. also swapped all those cheap screws for stainless steel.
new cabeling. how do you like it? i'm sure if i go for the spiral look.
bike in all it's stealth glory. i'm finished with it (at least for that season)
izeman
1 GW
update: i'm never satisfied with what i have, and i like building things, so i ordered another bag for the batteries. brings down cog a bit. now i'm looking for a good way to mount the controller.
it's made by HABERLAND.
it's made by HABERLAND.
izeman
1 GW
this is the bag opened. there is a lot of space between the batteries. two of them perfectly fit on the top side, the other two fits in the corners. so this builds a triangle, leaving enough room for bms and cables.
i still have to do thru holes and cabeling. ths bag just arrived a few minutes ago and i was too excited to wait any longer
i still have to do thru holes and cabeling. ths bag just arrived a few minutes ago and i was too excited to wait any longer
izeman
1 GW
as it gets dark early this time of the year i installed some light as well.
it's a SOLARFORCE with xm-l drop in giving a nice flood.
holder is from dx for some $1.
http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=LF&s=45&id=305
no other light source than the torch
it's a SOLARFORCE with xm-l drop in giving a nice flood.
holder is from dx for some $1.
http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=LF&s=45&id=305
no other light source than the torch
izeman
1 GW
i wanted to buy the magicshine, but it was too big, and requires a seperate battery which has to be stored somewhere as well. so i went for that torch. the magicshine should be better, as specs of the xm-l drop-in say 800 something lumen - and as we all know - they lie
but it's ok for me, easy the detach, and enough light to find my way home at night in the forest.
but it's ok for me, easy the detach, and enough light to find my way home at night in the forest.
izeman
1 GW
i just found my old saddle bag, and the controller fits below it as it was made for it. i'm really happy.
compare those two bags:
compare those two bags:
izeman
1 GW
with this solution i can leave the controller installed at the bike and remove the battery in case of maintenance or for security reasons (lipos fires and such)
Xanda2260
100 W
My god! That has to be the cleanest, nicest looking build I have ever seen!
Fabulous work dude
Fabulous work dude
izeman
1 GW
Xanda2260 said:
you make me proud. thanks for the flowers
izeman
1 GW
any ideas where to hide those connectors (controller to motor = 3x power and hall wires) ?
i don't want to puncture the bag again and route cables thru it. on the other hand this would save the connectors from debris and mud.
i don't want to puncture the bag again and route cables thru it. on the other hand this would save the connectors from debris and mud.
izeman
1 GW
this surely is by far the most reliable solution, but in case of maintenance it's hard. even to unmount the rear tire it's not very practible with the cables attached. but ... i could solder cables to the motor, as i can detach the saddle bag, and will only have connectors for thumb throttle and battery.Whiplash said:
dannyboyohyeah
100 W
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2009
- Messages
- 157
izeman~ how totally stealth...so clean and lean. Congrats.
Since yer talking abit about batts in the frame...thought I'd shoot you couple pics in case you're interested. Even with your partially obstructed triangle, I could build one've these for ya pretty easy. Go Jolly
Since yer talking abit about batts in the frame...thought I'd shoot you couple pics in case you're interested. Even with your partially obstructed triangle, I could build one've these for ya pretty easy. Go Jolly
Attachments
izeman
1 GW
update: during xmas holidays i had some time for improving some things and for upgrading.
first project was the remote shunt for my turnigy/gt power wattmeter which will be installed on the handlebar.
then i bought a smart bms. first 2 6packs are connected in parallel, then in series. the balancer leads have to be connected the same way, so i can controll each voltage seperately.
i soldered a connector board and put some epoxy on the back side for insulation. i'm missing a picture of the finished project - i'll add one later
next was recableing of the controller and installation of an anti spark circuit.
the controller is now attached to a much smaller topeak saddle bag. this is a perfect fit
i also changed all screws to inox screws and installed a water proof switch.
the cable coming from the motor will be cut near the axle and 4mm goldies will be installed. this is the controller side
any comments welcome
first project was the remote shunt for my turnigy/gt power wattmeter which will be installed on the handlebar.
then i bought a smart bms. first 2 6packs are connected in parallel, then in series. the balancer leads have to be connected the same way, so i can controll each voltage seperately.
i soldered a connector board and put some epoxy on the back side for insulation. i'm missing a picture of the finished project - i'll add one later
next was recableing of the controller and installation of an anti spark circuit.
the controller is now attached to a much smaller topeak saddle bag. this is a perfect fit
i also changed all screws to inox screws and installed a water proof switch.
the cable coming from the motor will be cut near the axle and 4mm goldies will be installed. this is the controller side
any comments welcome
izeman
1 GW
update: ready to ride again
remote wattmeter and twist grip throttle (modded with ritchey handles)
i love the clean look
we'll see if that is waterproof
remote wattmeter and twist grip throttle (modded with ritchey handles)
i love the clean look
we'll see if that is waterproof
izeman
1 GW
today i installed the smart bms in the battery bag. it's nice how easy working with wood is
i wanted to do that with aluminium but didn't have access to an aluminium welder, so i chose wood.
the bag is bigger than 4 batteries, so i had to put something between the batteries to hold them in place.
the balancer parallel harness is installed in the middle where it can be reached easily
this is what i looked like before. you can see the empty space
holes drilled and cable ties in place to secure the batteries
i also added 39ohm resistors to the bms to push bleeding to 200ma.
everything in place, ties attached, and now that (of course), when i checked the voltage of the single packs before paralleling them
it was a loose balancing cable, that was fixed. everything ok now.
i also installed goldies for charging only, so there is no chance for putting wrong connectors together. all other connectors on the bike are xt60.
all done
i wanted to do that with aluminium but didn't have access to an aluminium welder, so i chose wood.
the bag is bigger than 4 batteries, so i had to put something between the batteries to hold them in place.
the balancer parallel harness is installed in the middle where it can be reached easily
this is what i looked like before. you can see the empty space
holes drilled and cable ties in place to secure the batteries
i also added 39ohm resistors to the bms to push bleeding to 200ma.
everything in place, ties attached, and now that (of course), when i checked the voltage of the single packs before paralleling them
it was a loose balancing cable, that was fixed. everything ok now.
i also installed goldies for charging only, so there is no chance for putting wrong connectors together. all other connectors on the bike are xt60.
all done
