bmc trail fox with puma hub motor

[izeman]

hi guys

after some thinking and ordering, and waiting, then rethinking, then drilling, cutting, and assembling, it's now done

my fully 2008 BMC trail fox is now electrified ...
i was trying to make it as clean an "stealth" looking as possible. so no free hanging cables, no duct tape, nothing like that.

removed: edit: if you're looking for all pictures in high-res : http://izeman.net/gallery3/index.php/bmc

edit 2012-01-21: this is what the bike looks like now:

 

[izeman]

this is the battery pack, capable of holding 4x 6s zipppy 5000mah, giving me 12s2p which equals 44v and 10ah.
i added a little switch to turn the system on/off. all fits in a topeak bag, and the 9fet 209b controller is fitted outside for fresh aircooling.

 

[izeman]

this is the torque plate on the right side. it's made out of 4mm ST36. so nothing special, and tightly fits in the frame. i think it does it's job quite well.

 

[izeman]

this is the right side. i will change the screws for nice ones some day
i also will remove the green color of the disc. /thanks to pedalex for helping me out ...

 

[izeman]

the thumb throttle. it's not the best solution, but after some time you can handle it, and it does not look like it doesn't belong there

 

[izeman]

what's left to do:

.) remove color from disc
.) make new torque plates of laser cut stainless steel
.) install powerlog 6s
.) install power gt wattmeter

any comments? ideas?

 

[SamTexas]

Wow! That's a very very clean build. Impressive!

How about a picture of the bike left side?

 

[izeman]

Wow! That's a very very clean build. Impressive!

How about a picture of the bike left side?

thanks. i tried hard to accomplish that your wish is my command. to be honest: i don't like this side because of the ugly green disc
one more thing: it's a 23" frame. the biggest i could find. i'm 192cm tall.

ps. all the pictures are available in high-res if you look for some detail: link is http://izeman.net/gallery3/index.php/bmc (also updated first post)

 

[veloman]

Nice looking bike, doesn't look electric at all to the untrained eye.

 

[izeman]

Nice looking bike, doesn't look electric at all to the untrained eye.

so it's "mission accomplished". thanks

 

[neptronix]

Nice build, man. i particularly like the torque plates.

You may want to look into the falconev triangle bag.. it may fit your bike quite well; you are gifted with plenty of triangle space there... so there is potential to stuff a ton of lipo or whatever into it. You'll find the bike much better balanced as well.


I love a MAC motor on a BMC bike..

 

[izeman]

Nice build, man. i particularly like the torque plates.

You may want to look into the falconev triangle bag.. it may fit your bike quite well; you are gifted with plenty of triangle space there... so there is potential to stuff a ton of lipo or whatever into it. You'll find the bike much better balanced as well.


I love a MAC motor on a BMC bike..

thank you believe it or not, but while browsing your trek build thread, i did read all about the falcon-ev bag. looks nice - and HUGE. a lot of space to be filled with some more lipo packs. i was tempted to order one, but couldn't find any source in europe. and paying $50+ for p&p is a bad value ratio.

bmc is cool - i'm sure more ppl may think that's the same company which builds the hub motors, and not a swiss company building excellent top grade frames

 

[SamTexas]

thank you believe it or not, but while browsing your trek build thread, i did read all about the falcon-ev bag. looks nice - and HUGE. a lot of space to be filled with some more lipo packs. i was tempted to order one, but couldn't find any source in europe. and paying $50+ for p&p is a bad value ratio.

May be it's just me but your current set up looks many times better than any other bike with the falcon-ev bag. The falcon-ev bag isn't ugly, but elegant it certainly is not.

BTW, thanks for the left side picture. You're are picky, it looks very nice to me. I don't know why but I can't see the high resolution pictures (server at qnap can't be found). What I want to know is how you "hide" the wires from the hub and the throttle to the controller.

 

[izeman]

thank you believe it or not, but while browsing your trek build thread, i did read all about the falcon-ev bag. looks nice - and HUGE. a lot of space to be filled with some more lipo packs. i was tempted to order one, but couldn't find any source in europe. and paying + for p&p is a bad value ratio.

May be it's just me but your current set up looks many times better than any other bike with the falcon-ev bag. The falcon-ev bag isn't ugly, but elegant it certainly is not.

BTW, thanks for the left side picture. You're are picky, it looks very nice to me. I don't know why but I can't see the high resolution pictures (server at qnap can't be found). What I want to know is how you "hide" the wires from the hub and the throttle to the controller.

sorry. my fault. i copied the internal network link. i updated the url. pls try again. i will make a picture of the bag tomorrow. it's already 11pm here. to make it short: i was thinking a long time which connectors/plug to use, but couldn't find anything i did like. so i cut a slit in the bag (near the seatpost). but there was a 3 mm thick plastic plate under the fabric. so i had to make a bigger hole to put the plugs through it. it's still covered by the black fabric.

you'll see it tommorrow

 

[neptronix]

thank you believe it or not, but while browsing your trek build thread, i did read all about the falcon-ev bag. looks nice - and HUGE. a lot of space to be filled with some more lipo packs. i was tempted to order one, but couldn't find any source in europe. and paying $50+ for p&p is a bad value ratio.

That's unfortunate because they are made in China, not too far away from ya. These are great bags, but they are not marketed well and sold by a guy who only does telephone orders... :|

Cell_man may be able to get you one at a lower price if you are really interested in one. He did recommend it to me and has had a few in his hands before.

 

[full-throttle]

they are made in China, not too far away from ya

Is it in ref to his location in Austria?

 

[izeman]

they are made in China, not too far away from ya

Is it in ref to his location in Austria?

i assumed shanghai, so colorado to shanghai is roughly 10,000mi, austria to shaghai roughly 6,000mi. not exactly around the corner, but i'm nearer to china than he is . not that that would reduce p&p in any way. but maybe i'll drop cellman a pm. thanks!

 

[neptronix]

Yeah I'm wrong. It's a near equal pain in the ass in terms of shipping route.
At least you're on the same landmass.. :?

 

[izeman]

in theorie i could pack some more lipos packs, and go there by bike. why haven't i thought of that before
btw: i hope my defective pack will arrive soon, so i have 10ahs again, and not 5 as right now.
i took my little girls sitting on the frame for a ride. that was a lot a screaming and cheering *g*

 

[izeman]

What I want to know is how you "hide" the wires from the hub and the throttle to the controller.

here you go. some pictures taken today. i also added the power gt wattmeter. though i can't read it while riding, i can check battery status during stops.

controller with power gt installed:

hole for cables. i know they are not nice, but i have to make that big hole to push this damn halls connector thru it. i will exchange that for smaller connectors.

a different view

a look inside. not much space left

full power, brakes engaged but still spinning of course

 

[SamTexas]

Thanks. Beautifully executed. I guess your next task is to make it rain proof.

 

[izeman]

Thanks. Beautifully executed. I guess your next task is to make it rain proof.

hey. i'm an pussy. i don't ride when it's wet no really. i don't have to use the bike. i just do it for fun, and i only go biking when it's warm/dry outside.
i thought of adding waterproof connections. but it's not worth it. and the controller ist not really waterproof as well. the bag isn't, and i don't want to have rust inside the motor. i'm sure this chinese cheap stuff rusts like hell

 

[izeman]

btw: i opened the watt meter, drilled to holes in the back cover, glued 2 nuts to it, cut an 2mm aluminium plate, drilled two holes as well, and then used my soldering iron to melt holes in the bag. that way the fibre is sealed. with the aluminium plate on the inside, the watt meter can not wobble around and sits tight.

you can see the cable coming from the ouside to the inside. this is a relly tight fit, as i also put some heat shrink on the watt meter's cable. first for a better look (all black), second to make it "one cable" like.

 

[izeman]

i just came back from another ride, and now think that a motor that could do recuperation would not have been a bad decision. going downhill fast does a lot of abuse to the brakes. i have disc brakes of course, but they nearly start melting after some decent downhilling

i'm also not quite sure that i did receive the 200rpm motor i ordered. it should do 33km/h at nominal rotation speed. i guess 200rpm relates to 48v, correct?

200 rpm * 2.120 m * 60/min / 1000 = 33km/h

which equals 20mi/h for our imperial friends *g*
but i can go 44km/h easily w/o pedalling @48v (^= 27mi/h). how can that be?

 

[izeman]

i did some work on my torque arms. well, one of them. i soldered the 2 washers and one bigger washer to it, grinded it a bit, and then sprayed it black.

i also measured the opening for the axle, because it felt like a loose fit, while it was a quite tight fit when i installed it. the opening is now 10.2mm wide, which is about .2mm more then before (i think. unfortunately i didn't measure it. could be only .1mm as well).

now for my question: can it be that both opening got bigger? those are 2 pieces of ST36, and maximum power from batteries was 1.600W, what equals to ~1.300W at the axle.
i probably will go for two of them on each side, and the outer one with closed ends, and not open ones. atm there is just not enough space for closing the openings.

this is the second one