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My econo-e-bike

Cable sleeves are like sequined panties. Great if you're in that line of work, otherwise an annoying waste of time.
I was staring at my maze of cables, while sitting on a bench taking a break. What a mess. At this point I'll take sequined panties, covering up streaks in the underwear lol.

I'm also going to vinyl wrap my triangle battery. Still deciding on what though.

The shark got a lot of attention from the kids on the bike trail...
shark.jpg

Nobody really got the whole ebike on fire thing....
flames.jpg

I'm thinking either just a plain carbon fiber pattern that might be boring without some other graphics, or maybe a skunk works theme....
Skunkworks 2 Right.jpg
 
You now me.... :) Just carbon.
You have more colors of carbon vinil, like grey... black and dark grey is a nice color for a battery box.
The sleeves is very demanding to install, but the result....its beautiful.
Take care.
I decided to get the good stuff after I do my rewiring/recabling so got some cheap split loom stuff for now. Definitely doesn't look as nice as the good stuff though, but better than the wire mess.

Here's before and after pics of how the sequined panties fit, lol.
IMG_8423.JPEGIMG_8427.jpg
IMG_8424.JPEGIMG_8428.jpg
 
Hookworm 24x2.5 tire impression

I've got about 500 miles on these Hookworm tires now, and I've been having a blast riding around on the hills and curvy roads around my area. These are great tires on pavement, but mainly on clean dry pavement. I've been able to take shortcuts across grass or dirt when veering off the bike path to avoid folks, but loose gravel or sand is pretty sketchy. Actually I have zero confidence with them in sand. I think I'll keep them on over the summer, but may switch back to knobbies when it gets closer to winter, since I like riding when the trails are a little muddy.

The rolling resistance is so low, I'm still not fully used to it, lurching with the slightest increase in throttle while cruising along. I think the knobbies mute that. Overall they are great street tires, as long as you respect their limitations. I'd say I'm getting around 10% more range, too, so that's another upside.

The problem on loose surfaces isn't so bad during cornering, since I'm used to having the tires slide a bit on a fast curve from riding motorcycles, but too much throttle and the rear will slide out. Also, taking off on pavement with even a little loose gravel/sand/dirt,I get unexpected fishtailing. Consequently, the rear is suffering more, as far as tread wear goes. Not a lot with so few miles, but the front still has the stippled surface and the tread has no wear, while the rear is smoother, with light tread wear. The tires need clean pavement or concrete to stick well.

I haven't tried any performance testing yet, but I want to get some good data before switching back to my knobbies. I'm pretty sure improvement will show up on my roll on testing times due to the lower rolling resistance. Anyway, I went out today after charging my battery, and waited for a stretch on the trail to clear. It wasn't too busy, but I still had to wait about 15 minutes before it was all clear, due to all of the dog walkers. I did one 0-40 run, which was disappointing. The bike bogged down off the line, and I was wondering "what the heck". I forgot to run under my off-road preset (with bypass throttle mode), and my CA throttle up ramp is set to a super slow 1.7v/sec., so it took almost 2 seconds after twisting throttle for the signal to ramp up to full throttle. Current peaked at 76A, and I had the current limit set to 80A, so it definitely wasn't pulling like it should off the line.

The botched run was very close to how the knobbies perform on my "unlimited" preset (set to bypass throttle, no current limit) instead of my "offroad" preset (throttle adjusted, 80A limit), so now I really want to do an apples to apples comparison, maybe this weekend.

Parasailing.jpg

EDIT 06-15-24
Second (official) run, unlimited preset. 3 speed switch set to 2 (no field weakening). Current hit 92.11A max, with 6.2V of volts of sag (ugh).
My breaker tripped on the first try this morning, so I used some electrical tape to tie the breaker switch to the on position, and it actually held!
0-40 setup.jpg

The bike still bogged a bit, but not like on the first run. I was leaning way over the bars, so my chest was just over them, and the front lifted about an inch or so, providing a decent start off the line. This time it hit 92.11A, so bypass throttle gave full throttle right from the start. I'm satisfied with the results, the slicks make a noticeable difference.
Comparing the two videos, the advantage is clear at the location that each run hits 40. In the botched run, it hits right as it reaches the bench on the left. Per Google Maps that's right around 30 yards.

I also tried one top speed run once I made it down to the bay. The battery was right around 80V. I was leaning forward with my eyes glued to the road, so just shut it down when I ran out of guts. I kept thinking this is stupid without at least a full faced helmet on. I guess if I were watching the speed I might have held on a bit more, but checking the top speed afterwards showed 52.7 mph. It was still accelerating, but not quickly. I did have field weakening on during the test (3 speed switch set to high).

EDIT 06-21-24 Great weather for riding the last couple of days. Cool and sunny, so a sweatshirt and windbreaker are perfect when pedaling. I'm probably going to add Flatout to the front and rear tubes. It works, but not for my last flat, where the screw went through both sides. Right now I'm a little nervous riding more than 15 miles from home. I just don't know how good the Hookworms are against flats. I haven't ridden out to Treasure Island in a while, but I know there's a lot of visible construction. I think they're putting more than a billion dollars into the high/medium rise condos with views of SF and the Golden Gate. That'll be a bit more than 15 miles, plus all the riding around there (more opportunities for flats), then back. 80% of the riding will be on multiuse paths, so not a high risk, but not sure how the roads will be near any recent construction.
I also want to ride over the bridge to Marin and do a loop around the Tiburon area. That will be more than 20 miles, plus the riding around, then heading back. Except for what I can see on Google Maps, I'm not familiar with the condition of the roadways around there.

I'm definitely getting 10% better range with the Hookworms, and I have them on the low pressure side. With the knobbies, I'd charge to 83V and after 20 miles of mixed riding, I'd be at 80V. Not heavy on the throttle, but not light, and pedaling on and off. Now, I'm pretty consistently at 22 miles.

Shade Tree.jpg

Haas arch.jpg

Yuca.JPG

Hands.jpg

EDIT 06-30-24 I'm starting to miss my knobby tires. This weather is perfect for trail riding, and I've been wanting to check out the Mystery Walls located somewhere along the foothill park above where I live, but I can't with these slicks. Ugh. It's funny that my wife and I rode all of the trails there, but usually were barreling down the hills barely paying attention to anything but the trail, but now while riding my ebike, I tend to ride more slowly and checking out the scenery. And there's a lot of interesting things to see, too. The panoramic views from the Nike Missile Radar site are great, even though all that's left are a few big concrete slabs (This Abandoned Nike Missile Site Is Now Full of Stone Cats)
and I finally found the Belgum Sanitarium ruins last year, which ended up being a few stone walls and stairs, lol (Belgum Sanitarium - Wikipedia)
I'm expecting a little more than that if I can locate the Mystery Walls, and the details/directions I've been finding online are vague, so it may take some exploring. (East Bay Walls - Wikipedia).

Still, these Hookworms are fun. I realized the other day that I was running them with really low pressure, with the back being around 25psi. I pumped them up to 50psi and now they're even more twitchy without careful throttle control.

I rode along the bay today and the weather was perfect. I took several breaks just to enjoy the sun and the views. I noticed I could see my test climbing hill, or at least the top (800ft), steeper section about 4 miles away. The trails are on the other side of the ridge (I think the highpoint of the trails is about 1200ft).
Test Hill.jpg

EDIT 07-04-24 Weather for the 4th of July is sunny and warm, almost too warm. I rode around and checked out some of the events the towns have. Some were too crowded even walk my bike through. I had to keep moving anyway, otherwise I'd start roasting. Came home after 3 hours or so, and my wife had the AC on(y).

I didn't take any pics. but saw these cleaning out my hard drive. 2022, so oldies lol. It was before I put the Cloud 9 on, and before reinforcing my rack. A few from riding over to Oakland, and Berkeley.

Oldie Oakland 1.jpg

Oldie Oakland 2.jpg

Oldie Oakland 3.jpg

Oldie Berkeley 1.jpg

I wonder if I could put that seat back on. I've been pedaling more lately, so it would probably be better for that. But I may have gotten too used to the Cloud 9...Oh ya, and the knobbies.
 
Last edited:
Hookworm 24x2.5 tire impression

I've got about 500 miles on these Hookworm tires now, and I've been having a blast riding around on the hills and curvy roads around my area. These are great tires on pavement, but mainly on clean dry pavement. I've been able to take shortcuts across grass or dirt when veering off the bike path to avoid folks, but loose gravel or sand is pretty sketchy. Actually I have zero confidence with them in sand. I think I'll keep them on over the summer, but may switch back to knobbies when it gets closer to winter, since I like riding when the trails are a little muddy.

The rolling resistance is so low, I'm still not fully used to it, lurching with the slightest increase in throttle while cruising along. I think the knobbies mute that. Overall they are great street tires, as long as you respect their limitations. I'd say I'm getting around 10% more range, too, so that's another upside.

The problem on loose surfaces isn't so bad during cornering, since I'm used to having the tires slide a bit on a fast curve from riding motorcycles, but too much throttle and the rear will slide out. Also, taking off on pavement with even a little loose gravel/sand/dirt,I get unexpected fishtailing. Consequently, the rear is suffering more, as far as tread wear goes. Not a lot with so few miles, but the front still has the stippled surface and the tread has no wear, while the rear is smoother, with light tread wear. The tires need clean pavement or concrete to stick well.

I haven't tried any performance testing yet, but I want to get some good data before switching back to my knobbies. I'm pretty sure improvement will show up on my roll on testing times due to the lower rolling resistance. Anyway, I went out today after charging my battery, and waited for a stretch on the trail to clear. It wasn't too busy, but I still had to wait about 15 minutes before it was all clear, due to all of the dog walkers. I did one 0-40 run, which was disappointing. The bike bogged down off the line, and I was wondering "what the heck". I forgot to run under my off-road preset (with bypass throttle mode), and my CA throttle up ramp is set to a super slow 1.7v/sec., so it took almost 2 seconds after twisting throttle for the signal to ramp up to full throttle. Current peaked at 76A, and I had the current limit set to 80A, so it definitely wasn't pulling like it should off the line.

The botched run was very close to how the knobbies perform on my "unlimited" preset (set to bypass throttle, no current limit) instead of my "offroad" preset (throttle adjusted, 80A limit), so now I really want to do an apples to apples comparison, maybe this weekend.

View attachment 354715

EDIT 06-15-24
Second (official) run, unlimited preset. 3 speed switch set to 2 (no field weakening). Current hit 92.11A max, with 6.2V of volts of sag (ugh).
My breaker tripped on the first try this morning, so I used some electrical tape to tie the breaker switch to the on position, and it actually held!
View attachment 354747

The bike still bogged a bit, but not like on the first run. I was leaning way over the bars, so my chest was just over them, and the front lifted about an inch or so, providing a decent start off the line. This time it hit 92.11A, so bypass throttle gave full throttle right from the start. I'm satisfied with the results, the slicks make a noticeable difference.
Comparing the two videos, the advantage is clear at the location that each run hits 40. In the botched run, it hits right as it reaches the bench on the left. Per Google Maps that's right around 30 yards.

I also tried one top speed run once I made it down to the bay. The battery was right around 80V. I was leaning forward with my eyes glued to the road, so just shut it down when I ran out of guts. I kept thinking this is stupid without at least a full faced helmet on. I guess if I were watching the speed I might have held on a bit more, but checking the top speed afterwards showed 52.7 mph. It was still accelerating, but not quickly. I did have field weakening on during the test (3 speed switch set to high).
Your based in the east bay?
 
Oh damn you are taking me back to the days i had a leafmotor.. that's some damn aggressive acceleration!
 
Oh damn you are taking me back to the days i had a leafmotor.. that's some damn aggressive acceleration!
It's the best mid-sized hub; like a small block with lots of potential. The data is pointing to the lighter, slicker tire setup making a really big difference. My best 0-30 times with the old Power Velocity controller was 3.8 seconds on knobbies with a peak current of 119A. With the no name controller the best time was 4 seconds with knobbies. On that last run, the 0-30 time is right at 3.8 seconds on slicks with a peak current of 92A. I hope it doesn't feel sluggish once the knobbies go back on.
 
How do you find the weight balance with the second battery on the rear rack and a rear hub? I want to run this setup with a 30ah 72v battery on the rear rack but am concerned it will not be well balanced. (The pack won’t really fit anywhere else).
 
How do you find the weight balance with the second battery on the rear rack and a rear hub? I want to run this setup with a 30ah 72v battery on the rear rack but am concerned it will not be well balanced. (The pack won’t really fit anywhere else).
It’s 6lbs, located at the front of the rack bag nearest my seat, so I don’t feel it at all. I don’t think there’s a rack that could survive a 30Ah pack’s weight. I wouldn’t do it. Maybe you should consider a different frame or splitting up the pack.
 
Damn. I don’t really want to split it up as it’s already connected up and that seems like it would be a bit more complicated. It is 2x36v packs though so not sure how much more work it would be to split it up. The guy selling the pack said it would be a headache to install the BMS like that
 
Damn. I don’t really want to split it up as it’s already connected up and that seems like it would be a bit more complicated. It is 2x36v packs though so not sure how much more work it would be to split it up. The guy selling the pack said it would be a headache to install the BMS like that
If it's two 36V packs, then you can use two 36V BMSes or better yet two balance boards that don't care what the full system voltage is, even under a fault condition. Then you can put one in one location and the other elsewhere.
 
I am suddenly faced with the decision of switching back to my knobby tires, or continue to use these Maxxis Hookworms through the summer. I was out riding yesterday, and felt the rear of my bike was getting a bit squirrely. I pulled over to see my rear tire quickly going flat. I was about 7 miles from home, but I knew of a set of bike lockers about a mile away so I started pushing. Same routine as last time, called the wife to pick me up, grabbed my truck to go back and load it up. I got all the exercise I needed by the time I was done.
I was too tired and lazy to even inspect the tire to see what happened, but I'll probably take a look later today. Flats always make me depressed. Even without inspecting the tire, I'm pretty sure having sealant and a tire inflator handy would have been enough to get home, but I've been rolling the dice the last few months and didn't have either.
I could just put on a new tube with sealant and put my inflator and a few CO2 cartridges in my bag and be off riding, but it would almost be as easy to swap out my tires now (just a little extra work to swap the front, but that's easy). Downtime always sucks, since there's usually the easy fix to get up and running, or the opportunity to take a longer outage and do the other stuff that's been on the back burner (torque sensor install, hub heat sinks, etc.). The weather turned a little crappy today, so I could also just sit around and procrastinate. Not like yesterday, looking for bits of shade while pushing my bike in the blazing sun.
 
AFAIK the best candidate for a very good sealant would be 'flat out', it outperforms slime and can also last a decade in a tire.

Hookworms are not particularly puncture resistant and there's a line of Kenda tires which are moped rated and weight 2-3lbs.
Ultimate puncture proof bike tires? testing Kenda K-shield and K-shield Plus

The combination of both should be close to bulletproof; we not only have a good sealant for larger punctures but a lot of rubber for that sealant to seal around also.

Some people have very good results with flatout alone, the thing that finally punctures the tire is usually huge ( larger than a full size nail )

More discussion about the Kenda tires:
Ultimate puncture proof bike tires? testing Kenda K-shield and K-shield Plus
 
AFAIK the best candidate for a very good sealant would be 'flat out', it outperforms slime and can also last a decade in a tire.

Hookworms are not particularly puncture resistant and there's a line of Kenda tires which are moped rated and weight 2-3lbs.
Ultimate puncture proof bike tires? testing Kenda K-shield and K-shield Plus

The combination of both should be close to bulletproof; we not only have a good sealant for larger punctures but a lot of rubber for that sealant to seal around also.

Some people have very good results with flatout alone, the thing that finally punctures the tire is usually huge ( larger than a full size nail )

More discussion about the Kenda tires:
Ultimate puncture proof bike tires? testing Kenda K-shield and K-shield Plus
I think the only reason Flatout failed on the last flat was because the deck screw went through both sides of the tube. Otherwise, based on how it looked when I took the tube off, the hole on the tread side of the tube was pretty sealed off by the fibers in the Flatout. The hole on the rim side didn't stand a chance.
 
We call that an act of god, not a preventable flat, lol
I didn't take the tire off yet, but I closely inspected it and couldn't find anything that looked like a puncture. :unsure: Maybe it's there, but I couldn't see it. I'll need to take the tube off and fill it up to find the puncture. But that leads me to my other thought, and something I was thinking about when I stopped my bike to check the tire. The day before, I was riding down the trail, rode off to the side to give some walkers more space and hit something, besides the curb, getting back on the trail. The rear of the bike shifted to the side and right at that moment I thought to myself "I hope I don't get a pinch flat". I've never had a delayed reaction to a pinch flat, but maybe the tube got pinched between the rim and bead or something and didn't actually cut the tube until I started riding yesterday? I'll know tomorrow when I swap it out. The tire went flat way to fast to have been caused by a pinhole that I couldn't see by looking at the tire.
 
If it was a pinch flat, i feel like this would be a good solution to the problem. Finding something like this in a 24" is challenging though!

2024-07-09 22_26_16-CushCore E-MTB Set - Cushcore.jpg
 
I was too tired and lazy to even inspect the tire to see what happened, but I'll probably take a look later today. Flats always make me depressed.
Could have been worse. Could have happened on the way to work, with no time to spare (BTDT) :( (Many times).
 
Ugh. It wasn't a pinch flat, or anything big. It was a tiny pin hole that Flatout would have sealed in a second. Oddly, I inspected the tire closely and couldn't seen any hint of a puncture anywhere. The tire must have already been partially flat when I left for my ride and went fully flat after 7 miles when I finally noticed. I ended up repairing it without even taking the wheel off, so if I had a patch kit and CO2 cartridges, I could have easily fixed in on the road. I patched it, added Flatout, inflated and went for a quick 20 mile ride. I made it a point to ride further from my house to restore some confidence, to get rid of the flat paranoia.
Something odd that I noticed was these really small rubber "marbles" inside the tire casing. Thought maybe the tube is moving around or something, but the valve stem is the type that has a lock nut, so the tube isn't moving. Maybe the tire was moving when I was running lower pressure. Anyway, I'm not concerned, but just odd. It kind of fell out like dandruff when I pulled out the tube.:oop:
marbles.jpg
 
I use Tannis Armor. No sealant. It makes the tires a bit spongy, but has worked well for almost 2 years. Ive only gotten one flat.

IMG_4068.jpeg

This clip penetrated my tire. It was in the tire all the way to the base of the lighter. Actually pierced the tube twice. My tire quickly went flat in seconds. I don’t think anything could’ve protected the tire from that. I was only about a mile from home. I pushed the bike.

Flats suck, but I don’t think you can 100% prevent them. Unless maybe you filled the tire with something like silicon caulking, but that would introduce many other issues and probably not work.

What could those little bits be? You say they are rubber. Could there be enough chaffing that the tube wall got thinned out? Maybe that isn’t really a thing.
 
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