C Cab Hot Rod Power Advice

Now that I've got the first hub work done, I need to concentrate on finishing the spindle.

I removed it and finished welding it. Ground down the extra welds, and have applied
a coating of JB Weld to being the smoothing out, process. I will follow up with body filler as necessary to complete the task.

I used the Kwik Set formula, which requires at least 4 hours to fully cure.
Tomorrow I will begin sanding it down, smoothing it out and priming it.

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Mocking up for the next phase...maybe.

New hubs/brakes/spindles and calipers are done for now.
Adjustments later.



Needing perspective with a top on it.
Debating whether to cut the center out or just leave it solid.




I think I will leave it solid while I am working on welding it in place.
Still have in mind a tan vinyl top with a candy red metallic body.
Another option is to use tan/sand colored 'wrinkle' or 'textured' paint.



The cut-down chairs fit near perfect.
The right height, right size. Looking to put a parking brake handle between the seats.
That is if I decide not to put the passenger ejection seat in... :D
If I do, I'll need help with the wiring... :lol:


Once the seats are re-upholstered, all will blend together.


 
Great progress again.
The steering wheel does seem too far away from the seat?
And you should cover the top with flexible solar panels so they can charge the batteries 8)
 
Nice. I would prefer a solid top but that might be an issue for the ejection seat.

I don’t see any brake hoses yet so I guess too early for a test drive.

You might want to periodically check your battery voltage just to make sure it isn’t slowly draining. It should stay ok for a long time without changing but some BMS units can drain over time.
 
fechter said:
Nice. I would prefer a solid top but that might be an issue for the ejection seat.

I don’t see any brake hoses yet so I guess too early for a test drive.

You might want to periodically check your battery voltage just to make sure it isn’t slowly draining. It should stay ok for a long time without changing but some BMS units can drain over time.
Click to expand...

I checked it just two days ago. It is still at 56.7

SlowCo said:
Great progress again.
The steering wheel does seem too far away from the seat?
And you should cover the top with flexible solar panels so they can charge the batteries 8)
Click to expand...

These should give a good perspective of the distance.
Do I look apprehensive? I forgot to put on my seat belt! :roll:
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Steering wheel position does look less far away then it first appeared without you in the Hot Rod. How does it feel though? Wouldn't it be a more relaxed driving position with the steering wheel tilted a little more towards you and maybe a bit higher? I think that when you unbolt the steering wheel and just hold it in your hands when sitting upright in the seat that the "natural" position you would keep the wheel is at least 4 to 5 inches closer to yourself and away from the mounted position as it is now. Not in any way meant as negative feedback only commenting from far away and admiring your work :thumb:
 
SlowCo said:
Steering wheel position does look less far away then it first appeared without you in the Hot Rod. How does it feel though? Wouldn't it be a more relaxed driving position with the steering wheel tilted a little more towards you and maybe a bit higher? I think that when you unbolt the steering wheel and just hold it in your hands when sitting upright in the seat that the "natural" position you would keep the wheel is at least 4 to 5 inches closer to yourself and away from the mounted position as it is now. Not in any way meant as negative feedback only commenting from far away and admiring your work :thumb:
Click to expand...

No negative feedback taken.
For decades in the U.S. the 'hot rod' craze has produced some really bazare looking, creations. Not always are they practical nor comfortable to drive. https://www.google.com/search?q=the+american+t+bucket&tbm=isch&hl=en&chips=q:the+american+t+bucket,online_chips:hot+rods&rlz=1C1GGRV_enUS751US751&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiTgLnWzIbrAhWQgp4KHbfpDroQ4lYoCHoECAEQHg&biw=1109&bih=593

https://www.google.com/search?q=rat+rods&rlz=1C1GGRV_enUS751US751&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjm5rLz0IbrAhVCnJ4KHUt_CpQQ_AUoAXoECBIQAw&biw=1120&bih=605

It's all about, 'the look'. More form, than function. They are custom artistic creations, using the automobile as a palette.

In my case. Yes it is a bit backward, but doable. To move the steering wheel closer would mean you would have to drive the car remotely, as you wouldn't be able to get in behind the wheel. Maybe with a shoe horn.

I had the opportunity to drive a creation similar to mine and found it wasn't as enjoyable as it would make you think. Yet the design, 'the look' is hard to resist.

My small contribution to the 'art form' will ultimately be safe to drive, all be it for short distances, i.e parades etc.
 
And topping It Off...

The top has been cut and set in place for it's fitting



Decided to add a bit of style to the back portion.
I've lifted the top 1 inch and fastened 14 inches from the end, giving a nice flare-up.
It will be contoured in with body filler.



There was a couple of points around the edge that didn't make it to 'quality school',
so had to enlist the help of a couple of nails to fill in the gaps.




I'm trying to fill in with weld material as much as possible. Not that I really need to, but it gives me practice with the welder.

Also, I want to keep the body filler to a minimum.
Using it mainly to fill in low spots, and weld pinhole areas.



I'm working with 20 gauge sheet metal so there is some blow through and subsequent repair.
My Hobart goes down to 25 amps which helps somewhat.



A look at the side profile.

 
It's been awhile since posting any updates. So I thought I would take a few pics and share.
Most of what I have done is visible.

Also checked on my battery voltage and it's still holding strong at 56.4 not being on any battery tender.

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nicobie said:
It's coming along nicely! You are getting pretty good with body work.

The body lines are pleasing too. It's probably just me, but I'd get rid of the Budweiser cans or maybe paint them. They look a bit tacky to me. Let Budweiser pay for their own advertising. They can afford it.
Click to expand...

Not advertising beer. I don't drink beer. Just wanted something that was 'obviously' not part of a real engine. Something that might inspire a , "that's clever" comment. Or maybe not.
Think of the various aspects of this build as being a simulation of reality.
A mixture of comical and authentic.
I fought with myself over, using them, and I lost. I've had more good comments than bad.
I originally was going to go with
images


But they aren't available anymore, unless you pay big bucks online.
If I could come up with about eight empty (cosmetically good) 'Full Throttle' cans I would use them.
 
fechter said:
Sweet!

Have you been able to test drive it yet? Looks like the brakes are mounted.
Click to expand...

No, not yet. I wish I was that far along. The steering is so easy, it's like power steering.

I need to source some different brake lines. The one that came with the 'kit' isn't really to my liking.
My son works for a hose making company so I may get some braided lines.
And, only the front brakes are on. I still not sure about mounting just the one larger disc in the back.
I may end up buying another set of 5" discs and calipers.

And I need to work on 'alignment' on the driver side disc adapters.
 
Part of my nonproductivity has been a lack of knowing which thing to tackle next.
Well, I finally made a decision and now it's 3/4 speed ahead. Can't go full steam. :)

I wasn't sure how I wanted to finish the rear brake issue. Since I only had one caliper/disc, it really didn't give me the braking action I wanted.
So I bought another brake kit, which is supposed to arrive between Sept 24-28. I bought this kit (same as the other one) from a seller closer to home, and $20 cheaper. MonsterScooterParts sent me incorrect hoses and never returned my emails or phone messages. So they have lost my business.

With the additional kit, I will have dual master cylinders, 4x4 braking, and two rear parking brake capability.
I will also have two leftover calipers and discs, for a future project.

Today I mounted the throttle and cut out access through the floorboard.
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I am thinking of using two master cylinders. Side-by-side.
If that is the method I use, I will cut access holes in the floorboard for getting to the fluid reservoirs.
It will also require fabricating an actuating rod that will operate both cylinders at the same time.
I don't think it will be a huge challenge but won't know until the other kit arrives.

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I'm still left with a brake hose issue. Whether I can use the ones from the kits (or want to).
I have in the back of my mind to make copper tubing for all lines except, from the frame to the calipers.
For those, I would like to use braided lines.

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I'm seeing a test drive in my near future.
Finish the brakes and tackle (retackle) the wiring and it will be ...all drive systems go.
 
Got my second brake kit. It isn't 'exactly' like the other one. A bit of style change, even though both sellers used the same picture.

It's not going to be a problem. The only big difference is the fluid cup is larger,
and the brake switch connections are different.
But neither one is a problem.

I've spent a large amount of time, trying to design the mounting for the two cylinders and the actuating arm.
The first pic shows what will become the mounting bracket for the cylinders.
It comes from an old tread mill frame.

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The cylinders will be mounted to what used to hold the treadmill footplate.

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Here you can see where the cylinders will be mounted.

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The black metal piece is from my old garden tractor. It was used as part of the mower blade lifting mechanism.
Now I will cut it down to fit this application. The 'arms' are just right, width-wise but will need shortening.
The shaft will be housed inside the frame rails, except for the arm that will attach through the frame to the brake pedal.

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An overview of how it all ties together.

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And here we have the two (same size different parents) discs for the rear brakes.

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After a couple of tries, this is what I ended up with.
It's still in the rough stage, but it fits.



Now I'm working on the actuator arm design



Still need to cut off the 45-degree angle on the top of one upright.



Fitting as designed



The bracket came with an angle that was near perfect to the angle of the frame.
Thus keeping the fluid cups level.




I think I will not use the actuator arm I have. After seeing this part of the install,
I think a less bulky, possibly adjustable shaft will be better.

 
There might be a tendency for one cylinder to travel a bit further than the other resulting in uneven force. I guess cars with dual cylinder brakes are like this too and they work, but I was thinking you might want some kind of linkage that applies equal force to both cylinders. If there is some adjustment, that might be good enough.
 
fechter said:
There might be a tendency for one cylinder to travel a bit further than the other resulting in uneven force. I guess cars with dual cylinder brakes are like this too and they work, but I was thinking you might want some kind of linkage that applies equal force to both cylinders. If there is some adjustment, that might be good enough.
Click to expand...

The push rods (2 each) on each cylinder are adjustable. As we speak I am mentally designing the shaft with two actuating arms that will also be adjustable. I haven't fully thought it through yet, so there may be a glitch I haven't thought of yet.
 
If you had a bar that goes across both actuators and push on the middle of the bar with a pivot, the force would always be equal on both actuators. If the pivot was off center a little, you could have more force on one side than the other if you wanted that. In your case, I think equal will be good.
 
by fechter » Sep 28 2020 9:18am

If you had a bar that goes across both actuators and push on the middle of the bar with a pivot, the force would always be equal on both actuators. If the pivot was off center a little, you could have more force on one side than the other if you wanted that. In your case, I think equal will be good.
Click to expand...

There's the adjustment, could add another hole off center to adjust more pressure to one or the other if needed.
 
fechter said:
If you had a bar that goes across both actuators and push on the middle of the bar with a pivot, the force would always be equal on both actuators. If the pivot was off center a little, you could have more force on one side than the other if you wanted that. In your case, I think equal will be good.
Click to expand...

You mean like this?

This morning I got the actuator shaft installed and the holes through the frame drilled out.




But I've run out of useable shaft collars so ordered some more.
I need one more for locking the shaft in place and at least two more for the actuator arms.
Using this method allows for the removal of the shaft...for whatever.

The only thing that bothers me about using shaft collars to lock the actuator arms, and still allow for adjustments is the possibility of slippage from being foot operated. There will be a lot of torque placed on those set screws. If I drill out seating holes or file a flat spot, that eliminates the ability to make adjustments.


 
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