C Cab Hot Rod Power Advice

ZeroEm said:
Once you get this prototype done!

Get it into mass production, we all can have fun.

Have been wanting to build a bike/car so can hardly wait until you start riding.
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Watch out Tesla...I'm coming!
 
Well, it's here and I'm super pleased. I was just a little concerned about the size of the gearbox.
But it will be just fine and depending on how I install it (vertical/angled) I may not have to shorten it.

If the refurbishing inside is anything like the really nice paint job, it's a winner.
When I get it out to the shop, I'll have a look inside to see what's what.

It turns super easy, and no discernable play.

DSCN4444.JPGDSCN4443.JPG
 
Sweet. I used to have a Cub Cadet many years ago. Always wanted to convert it to electric but back then the parts sucked.
 
fechter said:
Sweet. I used to have a Cub Cadet many years ago. Always wanted to convert it to electric but back then the parts sucked.
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I took it out and tried it for size. In the vertical, it would be about 3-4" too tall.
Or I have to find the antique style Model T steering wheel. You know, the one that looks like it's upside down.

Moving the gearbox forward, and sloping the column back may be OK, but I kind of liked the vertical style. It sorta looked more the part with everything else. And until I can actually work it out, the jury is still out.
 
It's been raining off and on for a few days and the last 4-5 have been steady around the clock.
Not so much to cause flooding but plenty of water.

Yesterday it was super to get out, in the fresh air, get some weeding done, and work on installing the steering column.

I ripped out the old steering to make room for this. It's only lightly tacked, so I can see what's what.
I'm really glad I opted to go this route. It's so much better, not only for steering ease but for esthetics as well.

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I will be making a new drag link as soon as I can make it to the metal supplier.
Post COVID-19 stay at home recommendations are eased, or I put on my full protective duct tape no leak gear.

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Today was another good day for working out in the shop.
The .065 wall is a bit thin for any serious wrenching down.
As I was meant to put crush blocks in, (forgot), I needed to reinforce the walls.
So I made plates for the outside (front/back), giving it some strength.
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I'm still going to need some sort of bracing for the upper part of the column.
There will be constant tugging on it and it has a bit of lateral movement, that I want to get rid of.
Below is just the first thought I have.
There will be a battery cover and floorboard.
The brace will more than likely bolt to the floor (or through the floor) in some fashion, so it needs to be esthetically correct.
Also envisioning using a solid rod, (maybe 1/4") that would form a triangle between the column and the floor.
It would be the strongest.

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Today near 80 degrees. Perfect for in the shop.

I spent yesterday and today redoing the steering linkage. The drag link was replaced with a bigger better one. Had to modify the steering box, to allow full turning, lock-to-lock.




I've spent virtually all my time just dialing it in. I think I have finally got the tight turning radius, I thought it should be able to manage.

What I need now is the spline that fits the top of the steering post. Don't want or need the steering wheel just the spline so I can make a hub that will bolt to my steering wheel. I think it is a 40 spline.




Any ideas about how to score one? I've already started searching for such an item online, or a really cheap used wheel that I can chop out the spline from.
 
If you can't find the spline, or wouldn't mind a bit more DIY, then depending on the tube diameter required to fit teh steering shaft, you could take the top off a bicycle seattube, including the clamp bolt, of a length sufficient to clamp over the spline area and possibly steering shaft below that, depending on aesthetics desired.

Flip it upside down, and weld the closed end to your steering wheel.

Fit over the shaft, and clamp the bolt down.


Instead of that, if you have tubing laying around that just about fits, you could slit it longitudinally so that it can fit over the steering shaft tightly with that gap just almost closed, and then weld a plate with a nut or nuts on one side of that slit, and a plate with holes on the other, and then just bolt it together to clamp it. And weld this to your steering wheel.

if it really needs to engage the splines, then depending on their depth and width, you may be able to score the isnide of the tubing (if it's thickwalled enough) to engage the splines enough for this purpose.
 
Thanks, amberwolf

Both are great suggestions. I have all the necessary bits to use either of those ideas.
I'll have a look-see tomorrow.

I have a 3/4" shaft collar welded to the underneath of the steering wheel. But I don't want to trust just a single set screw to hold everything. I was thinking of drilling a small shallow hole for the set screw to seat into. Maybe I can use one of your suggestions as a second means to keep everything nice and tight.

Thank you
 
Making a divot in the shaft for the tip of the set screw works well. Even better if you use two set screws at 90 deg. With two, there is very little tendency to loosen.

Or... maybe look for the steering wheel from a Cub Cadet?
 
fechter said:
Making a divot in the shaft for the tip of the set screw works well. Even better if you use two set screws at 90 deg. With two, there is very little tendency to loosen.

Or... maybe look for the steering wheel from a Cub Cadet?
Click to expand...

I will probably do the set screw divot idea.

While going through amberwolfs ideas, I thought about this.
Steering adpter.png
 
While lulling myself to sleep last night I was thinking that my horseshoe idea would work with one exception.
It wouldn't be adjustable, therefore the SW could end up off-center.
I can't have that, so today I will explore the other ideas.
 
Here's what I have come up with...for now.

Why do I have all these? I have no idea!
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The seat post clamps were way too big as was the below style.DSCN4480.JPG
Then I remembered I had these clamps that will be used to hold the attachments to the windshield frame.
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It seems to be holding quite well at the moment. The ends of the screws stop any remaining play.
With the set screw on the shaft collar underneath, it all seems to be quite tight....we'll see.
Also, I will add another locking bolt on the side giving it yet another secure point.
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Just_Ed said:
Why do I have all these? I have no idea!
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Because it almost never hurts to have parts around to experiment with. ;)

The seat post clamps were way too big
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But they work great as handlebar mirror clamps. Cut the bit off the seatpost clamp that keeps it from going below the top of the post, so it can slide onto a handlebar. Use just one of the rail clamps, and put it around the threaded end of the post for a motorcycle/etc mirror. Tighten the clamp nuts as you adjust the mirror post for angle and rotation. Voila, instant mirror mount for bicycle handlebars (or any other round tubing) without threaded mirror mounts. ;)

Same idea works for connecting any other solid rod type mount to a tube of that type of diameter.

Is that an old teletype bell in the middle? (or maybe from a rotary phone?)

I had one of those as a "bicycle bell" on the CrazyBike2, planned to put one on the trike but haven't got round to it yet...if you set it up right you can hear it for at least half a mile. ;)
 
Today was shop cleaning day.

I got the steering done and decided it was time to clean things up.
Put some air in the tires, and mounted the rears back on.
I am really pleased with how easy the steering works.
Even just sitting, and not rolling, you can turn the wheels with just one finger.

I was able to maneuver the car all around the shop. Easy peasy.
Also, I am surprised by how little effort it takes to push it.
I wish I had an accurate weight at this point.
I was able to move it forward and back using just my little fingers. The doctor said they should heal in about six weeks.
(Just kidding) :D

Anyway just for fun I took this picture showing my now clean shop and framing my creation.DSCN4486.JPG

The steering wheel center 'cap' is a ceiling cover from a hanging light fixture. I think.
I've had it so long I may have forgotten where I got it. So I'll stick with the ceiling cover story for now.

I want to make a couple of exhaust pipe brackets. But that means going out into the deadly virus world.
Not essential, but if we grocery shop, at the local Stater Bros, I could go down the street and get my metal, and maybe the anti-stay-at-home police won't see me. :twisted: I'll wear my mask, to hide my identity.
 
Looks almost ready for the maiden voyage. :thumb:

Vehicle maintenance is considered "essential" around here, so all the auto supply places are open as are hardware stores. No stipulation on what kind of vehicle.
 
Ok, we've got it so we can roll it.
We've got it so we can steer it.
Now we've gotta ...STOP IT!

This part being the most important safety-wise, I need to get it right.

I want to stay with hydraulics. Bicycle brakes IMO won't really be correct for this project.
So I'm looking at go-kart, golf cart, ATV, motorcycle, etc, for ideas.
Must be disc brakes, though I (might) think about drums for the front, though dual discs are preferred.
The rear has more tread on the surface, so I would like to have dual brake discs there.

At the moment, the link below is what I'm looking at as a starting point.
This kit gives me two discs for the front, but only one for the rear.
I contacted the company, and they only sell prepackaged 'kits'. They won't build a special order kit for me.

Any advice that should come my way will be appreciated.

https://www.monsterscooterparts.com/brake-kit-with-master-cylinder-calipers-hoses-for-go-karts.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMItvD-jYe-5wIVktlkCh1b2AglEAkYByABEgJum_D_BwE#description
 
A cutout in the floor board and you could do Fred Flintstone brakes.
Just kidding.
The brakes in the link look pretty good. Moped or large scooter brakes should be adequate. Go karts generally only have rear brakes. You might get away with only rear brakes.
 
Hey Ed,

Putting a bathroom scale under each tire and adding the results will give you a pretty close weight. If you want a more exact weight, put a spacer the same thickness as the scale under the other 3 wheels. That's what we used to do when setting up cars and karts for the track.

Your project is looking good. I wish I could take a ride in it when done. :thumb:
 
nicobie said:
Hey Ed,

Putting a bathroom scale under each tire and adding the results will give you a pretty close weight. If you want a more exact weight, put a spacer the same thickness as the scale under the other 3 wheels. That's what we used to do when setting up cars and karts for the track.

Your project is looking good. I wish I could take a ride in it when done. :thumb:
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That's a good idea. I think I'll have a go at trying to weigh it.

About the ride. But be patient. At 25 mph it will take me roughly 16 hours nonstop (that ain't happening) to reach the central coast. :lol: And its uphill from my place to yours, so my battery won't last that long. Getting back home its all downhill to So, Cal. so I'll let it coast all the way. That's why I need good brakes
 
Taking a closer look at the rear caliper, it looks like there is a cable connection.
If the rear caliper is dual functioning, i.e. hydraulic and cable, that would solve the hand/parking brake situation.

It doesn't say anything in the description about being cable operated.
But the connection is definitely there.

https://www.monsterscooterparts.com/media/catalog/product/u/6/u63-7142_1.jpg

What I might do is use this setup, with the three discs, (2 in front, 1 in rear) and see how it works.
If the rear, in fact, can be cable actuated then I think its a win-win option to buy. I'll sleep on it.

Question:
This may be a redundant question, but I wanted more filler text. :)
Assuming I use just one disc in the rear, which axle would be best. Roadside or shoulder side.
I'm thinking of roadside to ensure better continuous traction.
 
With only one on the rear, it may have a tendency to pull to one side when braking. Would you rather veer into the traffic lane or into the ditch?

Another thing to consider is the "master" cylinder may be only made for one caliper. If you split the hydraulic line and run two or more wheel cylinders, you may not have enough volume in the pedal stroke. You may need a different master cylinder from something larger or figure out how to drive two masters from one pedal.

The caliper in the link sure does look like it has both cable and hydraulic so could be used with a parking brake.

You may be able to get away with standard bicycle brakes on the front. Not sure if they would be any cheaper or easier. If I had a choice, I'd go for thick, heavy rotors like the scooter brakes.
 
nicobie said:
Hey Ed,

Putting a bathroom scale under each tire and adding the results will give you a pretty close weight. If you want a more exact weight, put a spacer the same thickness as the scale under the other 3 wheels. That's what we used to do when setting up cars and karts for the track.
Click to expand...

I put the car on the scales (with spacers) and these are the numbers. LF 75....RF....65....LR 182.5....RR....181.5...Total 504 LBS. The steering column/box weighs 8 lbs, so that should account for most of the difference left to right.

I'm stirred but not shaken, that the weight has jumped up that much. But it will be what it will be. At least it's not near the 800 +/- lbs that the average golf cart weighs.
If the choice of motors and battery are correct/sufficient, then there won't be any problem with the weight.
It rolls super easy 'in the shop' :). Outside on the road is another story.

fechter said:
With only one on the rear, it may have a tendency to pull to one side when braking. Would you rather veer into the traffic lane or into the ditch?

Another thing to consider is the "master" cylinder may be only made for one caliper. If you split the hydraulic line and run two or more wheel cylinders, you may not have enough volume in the pedal stroke. You may need a different master cylinder from something larger or figure out how to drive two masters from one pedal.

The caliper in the link sure does look like it has both cable and hydraulic so it could be used with a parking brake.

You may be able to get away with standard bicycle brakes on the front. Not sure if they would be any cheaper or easier. If I had a choice, I'd go for thick, heavy rotors like the scooter brakes.
Click to expand...

With this much weight, (504 lbs) plus more to come, I wouldn't want to trust bicycle brakes. What I may do is buy a second caliper, disc, hose and 'T' connector for the rear. Then I can 'T' off the first rear hose. Doing that would also add a second hand/parking brake capability. And it would minimize or eliminate the pulling issue.

There's another issue with the placement of the hoses. It may be nothing but something my good eye caught. Looking at their picture, the hoses connected to the two lower ports do not go to the front two brakes. WHY? One hose goes to one front brake, the other hose goes to the rear brake. I would think that both the bottom ports would be for the front brakes, and the single port would be for the rear brake. Unless there is some internal plumbing that makes their connection correct.
They may have done it just for the photoshoot as well.
 
Weight only matters taking off and up them battery sapping hills. On flat ground, taking it easy not a big deal. Get it done then you can look over what can be lightened.

Enjoy :D
 
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