Cheapo motors..............

gunthn said:
Children would be my number one reason.

I have three and a questionable experiment with RC motors warrants no more than $100 because that is where you start. then how much for the rest $1000?

It gets a little ridiculous if you ask me.

Who here has a working 5kw RC motor mt. bike that can do what a mt. bike. does?

Which is go down trails not fire roads?

It's an experiment and some of don't have personal machine shops and unlimited budgets.

Personally I have a shitty basement in the middle of the city with a few power tools and a drill press and about $100 to $200 spare to spend on this at some points and mostly none at all.
Click to expand...

The 2 motors that I have to play with are relativity small ones 2.4kw and a 3.3kw but they were cheap and do perform really well . Im not working on a MTB but I am after very high torque but only a max speed of about 25mph and a bike that defo will not be doing all the tame stuff, ( I want to be chucking it up 3-4 foot rock steps from a standing start ). If you decide to go down the rc route then defo look into putting halls onto a rc motor as the speed controllers are so much cheaper and upgradeable. My bigger motor ( now fitted with halls )plus a baby sensored controller (that needs a few mods ) cost about £70 (uk). All the stuff I have made to mount the motor and sort the drive train out was made with minimum power tools ( drill press and a grinder ). Its the ESC that are the bottle neck with these setups, this is my thoughts on it anyway.
 
There still seems to be a fair bit of variation in the quality of these cheap motors. I can concur that the bearings on my motor are also stamped "Singapore", so aren't Japanese as advertised, but at least they aren't the really nasty Chinese ones, either!

As for magnet bonding, I mentioned earlier that I was impressed with the way my motor magnets were bonded. Here's a photo I've just taken of the inside of the rotor, showing just how they look:

3877407574_f3846d2031.jpg


As you can see, they really went to town with the adhesive, to the extent that they needed to Dremel some of it away in places to gain clearance. The adhesive looks very much like Hysol to me, a good quality industrial epoxy made by Loctite, although I've no doubt that it's probably some sort of local product that may not have the same spec as Hysol.

Jeremy
 
Just thought I'd post a pic of my disassembled motor while I re-glued magnets a few weeks back. Note that I kept the little buggers well away from each other during the process. I also numbered them to put them back in the same place, as I didn't completely remove all the old glue and the leftover bits were handy for seating them in nicely.
rc_proj 089s.jpg

I did this over a weekend, in three stages, only doing three (or four) magnets at a time. Too much of mess otherwise, and gravity would be working against me. I also had replacement circlips on hand after Luke's tip. I can confirm that the original just didn't spring back.

I found that a brass letter-opener was a great tool for levering the magnets out and pushing them into place, being non-magnetic.

Unfortunately the following Friday I again had some loose magnets, this time it was rideable, just slightly noisier. Only four loose this time, one of them which I had glued, and three of the remaining four original glue jobs!

Because I am riding very hard, the motor is going through heat/cool cycles, which is what causes this problem. I could ride a bit slower, I guess!!!
 
Just a two-part slow-set epoxy, Araldite (Super-Strength, not 5-minute).

It would be good to find something that would handle the heat and the cycling, probably need to be flexible. I wonder if there is a urethane adhesive which would work...
 
They make a special loc-tite that is slightly flexible, and designed just for magnet bonding in motors. I think it's UV cure, which is much more handy for getting motors done quickly. Completely rigid glues are a fail for bonding components that have differing thermal expansion rates.
 
gwhy! said:
gunthn said:
Children would be my number one reason.

I have three and a questionable experiment with RC motors warrants no more than $100 because that is where you start. then how much for the rest $1000?

It gets a little ridiculous if you ask me.

Who here has a working 5kw RC motor mt. bike that can do what a mt. bike. does?

Which is go down trails not fire roads?

It's an experiment and some of don't have personal machine shops and unlimited budgets.

Personally I have a shitty basement in the middle of the city with a few power tools and a drill press and about $100 to $200 spare to spend on this at some points and mostly none at all.
Click to expand...

The 2 motors that I have to play with are relativity small ones 2.4kw and a 3.3kw but they were cheap and do perform really well . Im not working on a MTB but I am after very high torque but only a max speed of about 25mph and a bike that defo will not be doing all the tame stuff, ( I want to be chucking it up 3-4 foot rock steps from a standing start ). If you decide to go down the rc route then defo look into putting halls onto a rc motor as the speed controllers are so much cheaper and upgradeable. My bigger motor ( now fitted with halls )plus a baby sensored controller (that needs a few mods ) cost about £70 (uk). All the stuff I have made to mount the motor and sort the drive train out was made with minimum power tools ( drill press and a grinder ). Its the ESC that are the bottle neck with these setups, this is my thoughts on it anyway.
Click to expand...


For mc trials type use would you need some sort of flywheel effect?

I find that my cyclone ebike will climb extraordinarily well but since there is no wheel spin from a start the front just wants to go over backwards unlike my old wr250f which needed a little momentum, some wheel spin and a good dunlop d803 and you could shoot up just about anything till either the front would creep over backwards or the bike would run out of power and end up back at the bottom with me under it. Power delivery being the central determining factor in where you ended up.

Is anything like a trials bike in the ebike world? I think there is an electric trials mc, no?
 
gunthn said:
For mc trials type use would you need some sort of flywheel effect?

I find that my cyclone ebike will climb extraordinarily well but since there is no wheel spin from a start the front just wants to go over backwards unlike my old wr250f which needed a little momentum, some wheel spin and a good dunlop d803 and you could shoot up just about anything till either the front would creep over backwards or the bike would run out of power and end up back at the bottom with me under it. Power delivery being the central determining factor in where you ended up.

Is anything like a trials bike in the ebike world? I think there is an electric trials mc, no?
Click to expand...

with trials if you are wheel spinning then you have lost grip which is not good :D its all about body positioning and throttle/clutch control on the take off to whether you end up on your back or on top of the thing that you are pointing the bike at, you may need to stop half way up something and change direction :? . there are some small electric mc trials bikes http://www.osetbikes.com/ but there isnt any full size ones as yet ( there are a couple of home made ones ) I am looking for a cheapo bike to convert but one at the right price havent come along yet :( . Im still not convinced about a pushbike E-trials yet but im working on it :wink: .
 
My son would sure like one of those.

I think he will have to settle for a converted 20" wal mart special with salvage cells from one of my many failed experiments :oops:

I rode enduro for some time and usually around here in new england wheel spin is measured in forward motion vs. pushing ass off motion or I give up this sucks. Also enduro bikes are just not geared to climb from a standstill so to get into the powerband one would have to get the tire moving first or just beat the clutch and let it fly. But ebikes have no clutch and so feathering the power up something is difficult at best especially with 25lbs. on the tail.
 
gunthn said:
My son would sure like one of those.

I think he will have to settle for a converted 20" wal mart special with salvage cells from one of my many failed experiments :oops:

I rode enduro for some time and usually around here in new england wheel spin is measured in forward motion vs. pushing ass off motion or I give up this sucks. Also enduro bikes are just not geared to climb from a standstill so to get into the powerband one would have to get the tire moving first or just beat the clutch and let it fly. But ebikes have no clutch and so feathering the power up something is difficult at best especially with 25lbs. on the tail.
Click to expand...

I have a few idea's about delivering controllable power :twisted: as long as the the motors can perform... we will see. But those little bikes are amazing :lol: ..
 
Paul.............D said:
Hi

Would any of these motors be any good for a cheap build say for 30 mile an hour not clued up with rc but soon will.

http://www.giantcod.co.uk/400grams-above-c-25_84_199.html

Cheers Paul
Click to expand...

The first motor i bought was identical to this one http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/...64-B_230Kv_Outrunner_(Eq._5330/18_or_5330/24) and yes it can push me along at just under 30mph about 26-27 and still have enough for tackling moderate hills. I dont know about the ones you linked to so not really in a position to say.

Edit:
if you can stretch to it go for something like this one http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/...TGY_AerodriveXp_SK_Series_63-74_170Kv_/_3250W, less gearing to mess about with.
 
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