Completely destroyed

[Superwooper10]

So I know i'm new and all here, but I was scrambling around for hours trying to wonder why my wheel isn't listening to my bike anymore. I just took it to the bike shop to get it fixed because of a bent rim after getting out of a bad car wreck, and once it got back from the bike shop, the wheel refuses to move and just tries to take off, giving a violent thrust taking off one after another. When it gets up to speed, it sounds semi normal, but it's horribly making a noise as it tries to take off. When I let the throttle go, it sounds normal winding back down. Yet the 3rd error "Motor Hall Sensor Abnormality" is the reason it's giving the nogo. I did take the motor apart when I got that error and stayed up all night trying to fix it, but gave up. And just to recap, when I had it sitting at my house, I lifted up the front wheel and it spun up just fine on the bent rim. It even hit the top speed and gave no issue. But whatever this new rim is doing, this motor does not seem to like it and just won't play nice with it anymore. Please, is there anyone that can help wme with this issue? Do I HAVE to order new sensors with this new rim, or is there a way to recalibrate it or really try to fix it at home without spending more money on it? Do I need to replug with wires in a different way? (Yellow to green, blue to yellow, green to blue, etc..)The ebike display i'm using is a KT-LCD 3 screen and a 1000w motor.

 

[TommyCat]

Yeah sure Tommycat, you have permission. Just remember a credit now and again does help,

Thank you, this is what I have in mind...

I did place the arrow in the wrong area. I found the original photos and wiring plan.

Certainly highlights the benefits of taking digital pictures of the internals during modifications. Well done!

But I'm sure you would have come to it when trying to mount the key switch. :wink:

3 voltages in one throttle assembly... Living on the edge lol.

How do you plan on addressing reverse and loss of voltage display with your new throttle with remote box? Although I like the idea of easier water proofing (perhaps) if you're a wet weather rider.


@Superwooper10...

From your description I would speculate that the error code is related to the hall sensors located in your motor, and not the throttle. For hall sensor throttle troubleshooting, see this thread...
Guide to Hall Sensor Throttle operation, testing, and modification.

But more information, on your systems components (display, controller, throttle, motor, ETC.) and problem in a new stand-alone thread, would be highly recommended for more accurate suggestions.


Regards,
T.C.

 

[Superwooper10]

So, my motor has completely just given up. The display fires up, but the display doesn't show anything functioning. The speedometer doesn't move when the motor moves, the motor's voltage doesn't go up, nothing functions anymore except how much voltage I have. I can still use it, but really it's just a brick. I tried going out for a bike ride, but after a while, nothing just worked anymore. I was upset. The motor tried moving, but at this point it just didn't work anymore. Any fixes to this? Or really anyone out there knows how to fix these kinds of motors? I'd mail it off to someone who knows how to solder new hall sensors onto my motor and mail it back, but at this point, I really don't know. I'm stumped. Twisting the throttle with the motor not connected(or probably the hall sensors was conencted, but not the pase wires), it gave the error about a hall sensor error. Is there anything anyone can do to help? I know I have a new throttle coming in the mail, and the pedal assist still functions as well as the throttle.

 

[calab]

What do you have, controller, motor, battery did you buy it as a kit or is it an ebike.
You can either get a kt display kit, controller and display only and hook it up to the motor or you can just buy a new controller, but it all depends on what you have.

So, my motor has completely just given up. The display fires up, but the display doesn't show anything functioning. The speedometer doesn't move when the motor moves, the motor's voltage doesn't go up, nothing functions anymore except how much voltage I have. I can still use it, but really it's just a brick. I tried going out for a bike ride, but after a while, nothing just worked anymore. I was upset. The motor tried moving, but at this point it just didn't work anymore. Any fixes to this? Or really anyone out there knows how to fix these kinds of motors? I'd mail it off to someone who knows how to solder new hall sensors onto my motor and mail it back, but at this point, I really don't know. I'm stumped. Twisting the throttle with the motor not connected(or probably the hall sensors was conencted, but not the pase wires), it gave the error about a hall sensor error. Is there anything anyone can do to help? I know I have a new throttle coming in the mail, and the pedal assist still functions as well as the throttle.

 

[E-HP]

I'm afraid not. Take it out back and put two rounds in the motor, and one in the controller. Standard ebike Mozambique Drill in these cases. Sorry for your loss.

 

[Chalo]

You might have cooked the Halls only (or trashed the. If that's the case, you can still use the motor with a sensorless or dual mode controller.

You might want to open it up and have a look/smell at the stator coils. If they seem okay, that's the time to either replace the hall sensors or switch to a controller that doesn't need them.

 

[JackFlorey]

Any fixes to this?

First test resistance over all three phases. Resistances should all be low.

Next use a current limited bench supply (if you can find one) to send 12V to each phase pair in turn. The motor should judder a bit each time.

Test and replace Hall sensors if they are bad. You can do this with a 5V supply and a meter. Apply power and slowly turn the wheel; the voltage should go from 0 to 5V.

If all that checks out, it is likely your controller that is bad.

 

[E-HP]

Is this the same motor you committed harakiri on (ripping out the intestines)? How many times can you kill the same motor? You have to put it out of its misery sooner or later; it's only humane.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=114746&p=1697029#p1697029

 

[Superwooper10]

Is this the same motor you committed harakiri on (ripping out the intestines)? How many times can you kill the same motor? You have to put it out of its misery sooner or later; it's only humane.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=114746&p=1697029#p1697029

Yeah, I forgot about that post and pretty much. Guess i'll have to check. I went biking and pretty much forced the pedal assist to go, but it pretty much didn't do much work. After that, the motor just didn't function anymore. Nobody in my state really does ebike soldering or anything complex on it. Guess i'll have to take it apart and see what's even inside and what's left. Do I just go on Amazon and just buy any kind of hall sensors and yeah, I remember seeing some of the hall sensor voltages being in a funky spot on the voltages. I get into a bike wreck in October, take it to a bike shop after the motor functioned perfectly fine, even on the bent rim. Now it doesn't function at all and getting a replacement motor is 304$. Or winding. The rim is perfectly fine, so i'll just need to order a new winding I guess. I don't have a bench test to test them. All I have is a voltmeter and the bike itself. Well, yesterday was a balefire. The pedal assist made it move slightly and gave some power where it was due, but I decided to activate the walking mode while still on it, so it gave me a slight bit of speed. Not a lot, but a tiny bit. In the end, it all fell apart until it didn't function anymore. Sigh, oh well. 695 hours, 34 minutes, and 11,590.8 miles wasted. I'd get one of those Delfast Ebikes, but i'm not someone rich to get that. I'm seriously upset. I just wanna go back out and ebike around town, but looks like I won't be able to anymore now.

 

[calab]

Buy a cheap sensorless controller so you dont have to deal with the sensor wires, then open up the motor to sniff it then close it back up. Once I twisted a phase wire to get home but I went slow, another time my battery connector wire broke off from its perch on the xt90 connector and I just taped it real well and went slow. Be sure the wires going into and out of the axle are not knicked, wire up the 3 phase wires with your new sensorless controller and ditch the stupid pedal assist, or buy the controller/display kit if you want pedal assist.

 

[Superwooper10]

Buy a cheap sensorless controller so you dont have to deal with the sensor wires, then open up the motor to sniff it then close it back up. Once I twisted a phase wire to get home but I went slow, another time my battery connector wire broke off from its perch on the xt90 connector and I just taped it real well and went slow. Be sure the wires going into and out of the axle are not knicked, wire up the 3 phase wires with your new sensorless controller and ditch the stupid pedal assist, or buy the controller/display kit if you want pedal assist.

I had just took it apart and added some 1200w wires in. I just tested it and i'm surprised it still functions. All I can think of is just fixing the hall sensors seeing as how my speedometer's not functioning anymore. I'll just go the long annoying way and just replace the hall sensors and solder them myself even if I don't have any skills. I have no other option on what to do and might just give up and throw it all away.

 

[calab]

Do whatever you want but do the hall sensor repair first then go for a sensorless controller because they are cheap. Its to fun to just throw it away, its fun fixing shit every now and then, its not fun when you have to fix shit frequently. Do it right the first time :thumb:

I had just took it apart and added some 1200w wires in. I just tested it and i'm surprised it still functions. All I can think of is just fixing the hall sensors seeing as how my speedometer's not functioning anymore. I'll just go the long annoying way and just replace the hall sensors and solder them myself even if I don't have any skills. I have no other option on what to do and might just give up and throw it all away.

 

[Bg-electric-cycle]

All functions are retained exception of switching power the new cable is six core rather than five.

The different voltages 5v throttle, 60-88 volts display of was also present on the key switch, 5v or 12v key switch for reverse. Don’t forget the fuses!

I never did utilised the voltage display. I could utilise to monitor the 12v DC step down transformer? The smart BMS, via mobile phone was sufficient display voltage. The cable at the other end breaks-out to separate connectors to a Kelly controller.

Maybe actual fact safer the voltage isn’t passed through the key switch and goes direct to the display, all common ground (battery negative). I’ll also add a drain hole and spray internally water repellent.

Given that I have now understood the fragility of the hall sensor system within a throttle I eventual install a mechanical throttle, far safer during wet weather.

 

[Bg-electric-cycle]

Yeahhh I was gonna make a topic on this as well, and I don't know why my motor's being funky. Even when my motor's not connected to my controller, when I set my throttling to 1 for the and twist the throttle, it seems to give the hall sensor error as well. Is the throttle just bad?

Dependant upon your throttle? They are effectively just one electronic component a hall sensor. Always been that way or something recent? Could be a number of possible solutions?

 

[Superwooper10]

I've made a new topic on my issue, but looks like the motor winding is pretty much broken because of the hall sensors broken.

 

[Superwooper10]

I just couldn't take it and just purchased another motor winding instead with the little money I had leftover. I'll just keep this old broken one around or something and probably mail it off to someone to fix or something or throw it away.

 

[Superwooper10]

Here's the video for proof of what it's doing. If it's the controller that's fried, then I can just get someone near me to just resolder the new wires to the existing ones. Otherwise, this 11k mile motor's trashed and i'm not gonna look back at ever again. I'll just throw it away, end of story. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DtZYmogbn-C5EwcIFeZQBuhz2UvxmiCW/view?usp=sharing I spun it the wrong way at the start, but I already took it out of the wheel, so now it's just a winding sitting on the floor surrounded by its two metal plates. No speed indication, hall sensor error even when it's not connected. Did I end up frying the controllers hall sensors itself?

 

[Superwooper10]

You might have cooked the Halls only (or trashed the. If that's the case, you can still use the motor with a sensorless or dual mode controller.

You might want to open it up and have a look/smell at the stator coils. If they seem okay, that's the time to either replace the hall sensors or switch to a controller that doesn't need them.

So I know this is old and all, but I got a new throttle, and when I twist the throttle, it still gives the hall sensor error even when it's not connected to the motor. Nothing's connected to the controller. The hall sensor for the motor, or its phase wires aren't connected. Did I end up frying the controller's hall sensors instead? If so, I can easily fix that and just go for that instead which is easier to resolve than the motor.

 

[Chalo]

The error means it's not getting feedback from the Hall sensors, or their signals aren't in the correct voltage range. So it's normal to get that error when the motor isn't plugged in.