Convert my 32" sector 9

[Wroxsti]

I've been bouncing around the net looking for a smooth midsize e-board similar to my current board(small amount of flex. Double kingpin trucks, 20mph/10 mile range.) The Evolve bamboo is close I think
The transmitters I'm seeing are kinda bulky. Any kits around with smaller pocket sized units?
I really like the look of the hub motors x2. Imagining 90mm-100mm 76ish A durometer wheels.
Can I kick assist to extend range or while motor is off? Does belt drive allow this too?
im thinking a $400-700 budget. Belt drive or hub...
My board gets down to a 5 1/2" wide tale, about 23" x 6"-8" between trucks. I've got 1/2"risers on the trucks.
Can you help me on what I would need to pull this off?

 

[sl33py]

Welcome! Tons of info and recommend you start reading up.

Tx - smaller ones are out there. GT2B badwolf v2 enclosure is on my radar when i get time and can get the enclosure printed for it. I have a Kama/Wiiceiver and Quantum Tx and don't mind the larger Quantum. Preference on the "trigger" vs the thumb Kama is personal preference. Definitely like the smaller package of the kama (easy to pocket).

Hub motors are a great way to stay compact, but typically pretty $$. Good chunk of your goal budget. Check out pediglide who has some he makes. There might be a couple others, but that's the one i recall.

Yes you can kick - but it's usually not quite a freewheeling, so a bit more resistance. Harder to kick but doable.

Big ass wheels for your deck - double cutouts for clearing wheels? i have 97's on my GBomb and don't imagine fitting them under a regular deck w/ only a 1/2" riser...

range is going to depend on battery. I'd say check out the batteries on hobbyking - see what sizes you think will fit.

Again - welcome to ES. Great community to help you out. Don't forget to get a decent charger! I'd also recommend you get the smaller/thinner 3-5s packs you can run in series for 6-10s. Your usual challenge is what your ESC will support max voltage (most max at 6s).

start off with the sticky "how-to" by torque, then read up on some folks builds to see what they did. pick what you like and start asking questions...

HTH - GL!

 

[torqueboards]

@sl33py got it.

I think for a 30" or less deck hub motors are an awesome addition.

I've been wanting to make a 30" deck which hopefully I can do soon with the use of hub motors.

You can go with either a belt drive and/or Pediglide's hub motors seem pretty awesome too.

Hub motors are much easier to kick push if you run out of battery since there is less resistance compared to belt drive setups. If the drive wheel was on a bearing around the truck. The belt drive setup would have much less resistance and would be much better. However, for most setups that's not the case.

If you need to climb steep hills belt drive is a better option.

Best is to ask questions

 

[Wroxsti]

The wiiciever and badwolf look great. They are basic plug and play?
My deck is kinda narrow up front and back. Current 75mm wheels look a decent distance away. The sidewinder trucks may be 1/2" taller truck than a single jointed truck...
Regen breaking is a standard thing here right? Bigger the motor greater the start-stopping power?
Pediglide hubs look great. Says he's taking his board north of 30mph... I think I may start wabbling past 20-25. The power can be limited if speed where sketchy?
Board I'll be working with

 

[Wroxsti]

I'm liking Pediglides hubs a lot. I'm thinking 5s-6s run in series to get me some good mileage. (8-10miles) how many cells will I need? what kind of ESC can I get that will allow me to have 2-3 ride modes (Eco, sport, balls out). Other than batteries and ESC what else needs to be mounted under the deck? Also been trying to figure out a nice clean looking enclosure under the deck. Something a little cleaner than a Tupperware box.

 

[torqueboards]

Wiiceiver is plug and play. Nyko Kama Receiver/Transmitter can have issues with interference with the other components within the deck.

Badwolf GT2B enclosure is pretty nice. You will have to unsolder/solder the charging port.

You need more watt hours in general for added range. You can either use 6S 10ah and/or 12S 5ah. Both setups would be fairly similar. You might get more range for 6S 10ah since your limited on your output but always depends on how you ride. I estimate both packs will get you about the same 12 miles to 18 miles+.

As for ESC, no option will give you the 3 different speed options. You would need a custom controller to limit the throttle. Typically, for most of the DIY boards we don't have that option.

As for mounted underneath the deck - Wires, On/Off Switch, Receiver.

 

[LEVer]

I have FVT 120A ESC but have not hooked it up yet. It has a Throttle Limit feature and is nicely priced too. Torque, don't you have them?

Flier ESCs also have this feature and their dual-ESC package is tempting, but it's a lost cause. I've got two defective ESCs from them already. Torqueboard is right. :wink:

For enclosures, you can buy a customized one from Psychotiller's: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=70553

Look out for my post this week about changing the endcap so I can put in a 608 skate bearing, among other things.

 

[torqueboards]

Yeah, I have them. It's a single throttle limit setting. Doesn't have 3 options though :/

Flier/Alien ESCs ->

 

[Wroxsti]

Looking at a multistar s6 10000mah or turnagy s6 5000mah. The turnagy I think has a 40c and multistar is 20c I think. I want more c's right?
Do any of these batteries do more charge cycles?
Iv got no clue when it comes to an ESC. Iv been trying to research that but I'm just confusing myself. If you say the fvt 120amp ESC is good I'll take your word for it. I'd like something that is customizable. (acceleration, top speed, breaking power... Or is all this controlled by the transmitter?) Maybe I'm overthinking how these components are working.

So far my board with:
Pediglides hubs on my sidewinder trucks.
Turnagy 6s 5000mah x2 (10,000mah. Should get me 10+miles range)
Fvt 120amp ESC
Badwolf gt2b v2
On/off switch
Quality charger?
These parts should get my board going 20-30mph? (Not that I wanna be screaming down the road at 30mph just yet but it would be nice to have that extra horsepower under me.) if these are good parts I would like to get one of Psychotiller's enclosures.
The excitement is building. I want this board already. Anything I'm missing or something that could be improved?

 

[torqueboards]

I don't think you really need more than 20C IMO. I'd go with the Multistar 6S 10ah but those are pretty big. You'll need to make sure psychotiller enclosures fit those.

The ESCs control acceleration, breaking power but they are also defined by the other components as well.

As for charger, I recommend not to cheap out on a charger. iCharger 208B is a great investment.

 

[LEVer]

...Anything I'm missing or something that could be improved?

Yes, you need a helmet.

 

[Wroxsti]

any estimation on range with a s6 10000mah how much range that does? Think it makes more sense to step down to 5000 or 8000mah and just get 2 or 3 packs or even step down to few s3's? I've got a flyaway helmet somewhere.

 

[LEVer]

Depending on your weight, terrain and riding style, you can expect to get 1 mile per 1ah. But sometimes the torque gets addicting and you'd want to show off, that's when you see your mileage go down. The best advice I can give to increase range is to ride it like a normal longboard and just give it a burst of power here and there, becuase it does coast like an unmotorized board.

 

[Wroxsti]

25-30mph is the max speed I'd like to go anything more and I'm going to hurt myself or any friends that try my board. I'm still hung up on what battery to go with. I'm seeing a few good looking batteries on hobby king but all the high capacity lower weight batteries are out of stock. (Looking at s6 6.6-10 watt hours. Some of these batteries are 10c constant/20c peek) are those enough? I'm assuming this lower c count means slower acceleration and longer battery life. http://m.ebay.com/itm/22-2V-6S-8000mAh-35C-Lipo-Battery-Multi-Rotor-RC-Helicopter-DJI-S800-S900-S1000-/391148731662?_trkparms=aid%253D222007%2526algo%253DSIC.MBE%2526ao%253D1%2526asc%253D20140818092515%2526meid%253D8a4c682692ed4f5d82f5bcc6dd85c6a3%2526pid%253D100286%2526rk%253D5%2526rkt%253D21%2526sd%253D121686883960&_trksid=p2054897.c100286.m3506
This also looked good but 35c may be too much? But at 40mm thick it may be one of the lower profile high capacity packs.
Any input on where and what kind of high capacity batteries to get would be great.
Thanks for your help so far.

 

[torqueboards]

I find 20C to be accurate as well as 10C. I doubt you really need more power unless you wanted to race.

 

[psychotiller]

I could make you a 3-way switch that would allow to to switch between parallel and series. That would allow you to say have a 6s set up (25-30mph) and a 3s set up (10-15mph)

I used this kind of switch so I could have a board for my son or newbies to ride on a slow setting. Once they were comfortable a simple throw of the switch and the board was fast again.

Those multistar batteries are really thick. 54mm..I could make an enclosure though. If you're going to use just one of those bricks you could always cut off the plastic and lay the cells out in half. (mccleod did this and said it is easy) Then you'd only have a 28mm tall battery. How many ESC's are you going to use? If just one, I have an enclosure made for you right now. 8)

 

[Wroxsti]

I just bought 2 zippy 6s 5000mah 20c packs. A 6s-3s switch would be great. Will it still work with these 2 zippy 6s packs? Also would the switch use only one pack in 3s mode? Worried about uneven discharging... Isn't that stressful on the batteries?
I like the idea of slicing the pack open and just laying down a string of batteries.
Keeping the flex in the deck is important to me. I'm hoping the enclosure doesn't inhibit this... Was thinking I would only screw in the middle screws of the enclosure so the board could keep its flex. Thoughts?

 

[Wroxsti]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/271564624204?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmtid%253D1588%2526kwid%253D1%2526crlp%253D69982082769_324272%2526itemid%253D271564624204%2526targetid%253D124340422329%2526rpc%253D0.18%2526rpc_upld_id%253D53027%2526rlsatarget%253Dkwd-124340422329%2526device%253Dm%2526mpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F271564624204%25253Flpid%25253D82%252526chn%25253Dps%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526gclid%253DCIaz2_u1gccCFQGVfgodNIwB7A%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D875741807173
Is this the correct fvt 120a esc?
Do I also need a programming card?
I'm looking for the badwolf transmitter but all I'm finding is 3d printing instructions. I'd rather get a proven and "available" small pocketable transmitter/receiver. Suggestions?
Other than this I think all the hardware is accounted for unless I need other connectors and switches.

 

[mccloed]

That is the FVT 120a. I would highly recommend the programming card. The stock settings are not good for skateboards.

 

[psychotiller]

I just bought 2 zippy 6s 5000mah 20c packs. A 6s-3s switch would be great. Will it still work with these 2 zippy 6s packs? Also would the switch use only one pack in 3s mode? Worried about uneven discharging... Isn't that stressful on the batteries?
I like the idea of slicing the pack open and just laying down a string of batteries.
Keeping the flex in the deck is important to me. I'm hoping the enclosure doesn't inhibit this... Was thinking I would only screw in the middle screws of the enclosure so the board could keep its flex. Thoughts?

For the 3-way switch to work, you'd need to start with 3s batteries. which I didn't suggest because you wouldn't be able to get the mileage you wanted. With the 6s 5000mah batteries you'll get the range, but if you used my switch you'd end up running 12s. The switch allows you to double your voltage on the fly, not divide it. Doesn't stress your batteries at all. As far as flex, Personally I'm not big on it. Stiffer boards ride better. Nobody agrees on that though...(until you pick up some speed)
I think you'll want to securely fasten any enclosure you put on your board being that its there to protect your expensive investments. If you only fasten the middle, when your board flexes, both ends of the enclosure will separate from the bottom of the deck. Right?

An idea comes to mind though. What if, rather than using holes in the enclosure to fasten it, you drilled slots. If you could leave the screws just shy of tight. maybe the board could flex and the screw would just travel inside the slots in the enclosure. Does that make sense?

 

[Wroxsti]

An idea comes to mind though. What if, rather than using holes in the enclosure to fasten it, you drilled slots. If you could leave the screws just shy of tight. maybe the board could flex and the screw would just travel inside the slots in the enclosure. Does that make sense?

I may try this first. If it rattles I may just tighten it up and deal with it. I'm looking for a smooth ride. Some of the streets here are less than perfect.

im going to scratch the switch to run at half power.
What kind of on/off switch do I need? and do I need a special fitting to charge the batteries without taking them out of the enclosure?

Still trying to locate a good solid compact transmiter/receiver. How do I get my hands on a bad wolf gt2b? Or another reliable compact transmiter/receiver?

 

[psychotiller]

On the board your charge leads could look like this.

To do this you will need these parts inside:



Note for all of this to work without possibly damaging your ESC you need to put a loop switch inline. This will completely disconnect your battery from your electronics before you charge (or when you are storing your board).
View attachment 2


I pm'd you two links for the parts you need to purchase. As for the parallel charge lead adapter you just need to solder two 10g wires to the adapter and put your choice of plug on it. (xt60, xt90, traxxas...)

 

[Wroxsti]

Iv got
2 zippy 6s 5ah lipos
Icharger 208b

On order
Fvt 120a esc
Fly sky fs-Gt2b transmiter and reciever
Power switch with xt-60
Foxnovo XT60 Parallel Battery Connector Cable Dual Extension Y Splitter for DJI Phantom
Pediglide hubs

I found a "Thunder Power RC 6S Balance Adapter, TP to JST XH" is that the same cord I need? the connectors look a little different

I'm also having a hard time finding the "loop switch"

I'm thinking I will do the enclosure last. I'm still playing with the idea of cutting the battery pack and laying the cells in a flat row between the trucks.
Should I be looking for other connectors? Are these standard connectors that I could get at "RadioShack"?

 

[sl33py]

TP is thunder power. Not the same as JST XH. Different types of balance leads for batteries. There are frequently adapters for folks to use, but likely not what you are wanting!

Loop switch is easy to make. I'd recomment the XT-90 instead of the XT-60, but you could do one w/ the smaller xt60. It's an inline "loop". If you look at the pics above it's a simple interrupt to the circuit (on the negative cable in his pic).

One reason i'd recommend the XT-90 is to use an "anti-spark" XT90 instead of a regular one. So you can connect everything without the "loop" and the anti-spark will keep it from sparking when you are ready to power it up and ride! Simple and easy. BUT make sure you secure it somehow or carry a spare!

Here's the xt90 anti-spark:

GL!

 

[sl33py]

Still trying to locate a good solid compact transmiter/receiver. How do I get my hands on a bad wolf gt2b? Or another reliable compact transmiter/receiver?

Order a standard GT2b (HK or Flysky). Then you get a 3d print of badwolf enclosure (v1 or v2 - whichever you prefer). Mod/chop/solder and install in smaller case. I just got two of the GT2b's and look forward to trying to slim them down for the badwolf enclosure!

I don't have a 3d printer, so i used a local 3dhub to print mine. about 15-20$. Get the .stl files from thingverse from badwolf and just get them printed!

One thing i'm unsure of is the moving of the USB charge port and the resistors he talks about soldering on. I'll have to review the pics again to see if it's clear. Or dig here for someone who has done it.

GL!