Cycle Analyst V3 preview and first beta release

pendragon8000 said:
AXLE BROKE again.
Excuse me while I go cry.
Ive been testing a couple hours a day (many hours) changing 1 variable at a time trying to find the culprit but the pulsing wouldn't go away . I read more of the unofficial guide and started changing the v/kph . this helped s bit but still pulsing ... Then snap. My $200 axle from Tench is broken. Less than 100 km of use. I'm so frustrated!
PD8K-
This is really bad news - I can only imagine the frustration and disappointment. But I expect you will soldier on and get this beat.

I was hoping that a member with experience tuning a powerful machine could help out - this is outside my experience. That said, here's some thoughts for the next go round that are just reasoned guesses:

A. Taming Axle-Breaking Power

I'm awestruck that you are able to apply enough power to break an axle and this is probably worth a separate discussion thread in its own right. Two things you might try are to set the block time to zero and to reduce the phase current to 2:1 or less. As mentioned recently, when doing a WOT getaway, the controller switches to an internal preset amp limit that is determined by board type for 'block time' seconds. It's generally so high as to be unlimited. The CA should limit this to MaxCurrent (or the throttle setting for Current Throttle), but there's no good reason to have the controller doing something unnecessary so the CA can try to undo it. Reducing the phase amps will reduce the torque immediately after getaway which may help hold your axle together.

B. Update to 3.0p6

You are running on B21 which is old and unsupported. I know this has been a struggle and you seem to have run through all the known options. You may have to resort to pulling the CA, taking it to another PC, and running it off a small battery to get it flashed.

Justin could better speak to this, but I don't believe there were any changes in the AGain/Current PI Controller logic between B21 and P6 that would materially affect the surging issues. The ramping settings were changed from a dimensionless 0-999 range to the newer Volt/sec scheme, but that should be a matter of interface not functionality.

C. Reduce Magnitude of PI Controller Correction

The PI controller (actually an 'I' controller) for current effectively applies ZERO/WOT to make any but the smallest corrections. As you know this can lead to extreme surging when there is significant overcorrection. Things tame down quite a bit when overcorrection is reduced and AGain approaches a good setting. Although there are no means to reduce the amount of throttle applied for a correction, you might use UpRate and DownRate to soften the correction application. This is sort of an unusual use, but it may help as the ramping logic prevents large changes in throttle. I think you were going in this direction, but here you might set this up and then resume normal tuning efforts with AGain. Once AGain is nearing a Good Setting, you might reduce the ramping and further fine tune AGain. Repeat to sneak up on workable final settings.

D. Alternate Power Reduction Technique

Another way to go after reducing the magnitude of the correction is to temporarily reduce MaxOut so the throttle cannot actually achieve WOT. The older V2 had a separate adjustment for this, but the effect is the same. Unlike increasing ramping, this leaves the speed of throttle change unaffected which may be more like your desired end result from an AGain tuning perspective, but may be more difficult to tune initially. Not sure about this one...

E. Tune AGain in Stages

It might be useful to dive off the 1 meter board before jumping off the 10 meter board. You might reduce MaxCurrent either directly or by 3-postion switch to get back to a less powerful bike. Tune this up (which we know is doable), then advance the current limit and fine tune AGain from the known 'nearby low-power' setting instead of going after it from the default. Even steps of one or two can make a big difference for small AGain, so you need to proceed slowly. With luck, increasing the current limit will only introduce minor surging and you will be able to tweak it out, etc.

Anyhow, just some musing about strategies that sound helpful but may not be effective in the end. It would be good to get some details on what eventually worked for you so some policy for powerful bikes could be added to the Guide.

Best of luck on The Quest.
 
Thanks, your support is encouraging.
Here are my co troller settings.
file.php

I'd really like to get the new firmware on there so I can set it up with your suggested methods , but also be able to have throttle response quick enough to pull the front up over bumps (pot holes, branches etc) when I'm going 25-45kph .
So amp gain is the main issue? I could set that about 3 and no higher or it would pulse. Then set watt gain to 20ish?
Speed lim ramps factory? I set throttle out 1.4-3.5 that is the effective range. Could that have something to do with it? Only 2v of range. Throttle ramp was usually down-900 , up-50. Volt/kph was 1 then I started making it more trying to take away any limiting effect it had.
It seems strange that amp gain can go to 1000 but I only need 3 . I guess its just the variable type.
Edited for Izeman
 
I'm going to open my ca tomorrow and see if there is any connection issue between the 3.5mm socket and the PCB.

As much as I love the ca v3 and its program ability(and i am programmer) , the parameters don't seem to be explicitly defined anywhere. Eg , if no other limits are hit the changing amp gain from 1x to 2x, the output power graph line will be double ... Etc
I still feel like I'm searching in the dark.
 
You need to take the motor business to a different thread. You are breaking axles and something is Not Right. My knee-jerk reaction is that the specific settings you have for rated/phase current (or the ratio) must be too high or things wouldn't be failing. But this needs a different venue and folks with more expertise with that motor...

pendragon8000 said:
I'd really like to get the new firmware on there so I can set it up with your suggested methods , but also be able to have throttle response quick enough to pull the front up over bumps (pot holes, branches etc) when I'm going 25-45kph .
You still haven't told us what throttle mode you are using. If it's Current Mode, then it may be that bunny hopping may be difficult to arrange because of the lag and damping of the throttle. If that doesn't work out, you may have to resort to PassThru mode or legacy mode to get the response you are after.

pendragon8000 said:
So amp gain is the main issue? I could set that about 3 and no higher or it would pulse. Then set watt gain to 20ish? Speed lim ramps factory?
...
Throttle ramp was usually down-900 , up-50.
Assuming you are using Current Throttle, set the CA for no Watts limiting and let the current limit do the whole job. There's no point in getting extra parameters involved. This will let you focus on AGain. As mentioned above, turn down MaxCurrent initially and get the ramping set to something you find 'okay' or a bit slow - factory may work for you. This is 'tuning' so you need to mess with it for your particular bike - (900/50? dunno - default is 500/500 - yours seem a bit fast/slow to me, but I'm guessing - something closer to the defaults will slow the surging to some extent and then you can adjust more towards final values as described above.
  • Old Manual for B21 said:
    Adjust Throttle Ramping

    If in non-legacy mode, restore the default ThrO->UpRamp and ThrO->DownRamp settings to 500 and adjust as appropriate to achieve the desired throttle response. Gear and powerful DD motors may benefit from low values (less than 100) for ThrO->UpRamp to moderate power on dead starts.
    (999) = shortest ramp, (001) = longest ramp, do not use (000) = never ramp.
    • Reducing ThrO->UpRamp damps increasing Throttle OUT changes (e.g. startup) so the bike will pull away smoothly with reduced then increasing power.
    • Reducing ThrO->DownRamp damps decreasing Throttle OUT changes and generally can be left at the default so closing the throttle has a fairly immediate effect.

pendragon8000 said:
I set throttle out 1.4-3.5 that is the effective range. Could that have something to do with it? Only 2v of range.
In the end - unrelated (although reducing MaxOut will certainly reduce available power as an alternative to reducing MaxCurrent - see previous post). It looks like you did the throttle tuning part of the manual and the range is what it is. If you followed the steps, don't fiddle the values around. Your only tuning should be with the Gain and ramping settings.

pendragon8000 said:
Volt/kph was 1 then I started making it more trying to take away any limiting effect it had.
Here I assume you are talking about PSGain. Please do not do this. As posted earlier, we want to turn off speed limiting. Please make these settings from the Guide and do not change them. If you really want speed limiting, set it up after you get the throttle business squared away.

  • Guide/section 4.9.2 said:
    If Speed Throttle and maximum speed limit enforcement are not required, disable the speed control logic:
    set SLim->MaxSpeed to the maximum value, IntSGain = 100, PSGain = 0, DSGain = 0.

pendragon8000 said:
It seems strange that amp gain can go to 1000 but I only need 3 . I guess its just the variable type.
...
As much as I love the ca v3 and its program ability(and i am programmer) , the parameters don't seem to be explicitly defined anywhere. Eg , if no other limits are hit the changing amp gain from 1x to 2x, the output power graph line will be double ... Etc
I still feel like I'm searching in the dark.
The gain adjustment is problematic for more powerful builds as the adjustment granularity has large effect for low values. It would be better if it was expanded or the linearity changed, but for now it is what it is.

  • EDIT - Hmm - I missed that you can only use a setting of 3 from AGain. Ouch. If the response is okay, you're pretty much done, otherwise you may have to resort to PassThru mode or even go back to legacy mode. Either of those would leave temperature limiting, LVC, etc working but you wouldn't have Current Throttle anymore.
As far as the parameters are concerned, they are all defined on the Grin V3 web page and wikipedia has a good discussion of PID controllers if you want to see what's going on under the covers. I've been avoiding adding this to the Guide since it's already so large (it's hard to address all the topics in adequately and still have a small manual) but since this is a core idea, maybe adding a small discussion would help...

Here's something from an earlier post that might shed some light:

The CA looks at the 'error' between the current you requested by turning the throttle and the actual current measured by the shunt then applies a correction to the throttle voltage to correct any error. The magnitude of that correction is controlled by the coefficient AGain. If AGain is too large, the CA applies a whopping big correction that causes an overshoot. If it is too small, the correction is very slow or possibly even insufficient to achieve the target. So the trick is to get a balance that seems to work 'best' generally.
I guess you won't be back on this until your motor is repaired again, but best of luck.
 
thanks Teklektic.
I will read the CA info again and see if i can form a plan. I wont be leaving this thread so soon as i have the expectation of this product to be used as a power throtle and all the other normal features, throttle up ramp, temperature etc. I dont want to clog this thread up with useless posts, but its a forum and I need help. So diuscussing the behaviour of the CA V3 algorithym in my aplication will be very useful to me (maby others).

thanks again
 
pendragon8000 said:
I will read the CA info again and see if i can form a plan. I wont be leaving this thread so soon as i have the expectation of this product to be used as a power throtle and all the other normal features, throttle up ramp, temperature etc. I dont want to clog this thread up with useless posts, but...
Sounds like an excellent plan - and the thread is all about getting these things worked out. :D

pendragon8000 said:
...discussing the behaviour of the CA V3 algorithym in my aplication will be very useful to me (maby others).
Agreed. I will try to get some better notes together shortly. This PID controller thing has come up before, but your tuning problem seems particularly acute. A little look under the covers may help...
 
hi guys,
currently i try to set up the CA with the Thun BB torque sensor and it seems like its very hard to find optimal settings.

the main problem is:

the motor has a time lag about 1sec or more before it cuts off after pedalling is stopped

first i tried the settings like suggested in the manual for then Thun BB Torque sensor.

If i set "trottle down rate" faster (to about 6V/sec or more) the assistance is not smooth anymore - more like on off on off.
Same with "Wgain" settings.
Assistance setting: 5times x human power.

i am right with TorquePas only "Wgain" and "throttle up down rate" has effect, or did i missed something?
why there is such a big time delay before the motor cuts off?

other configuration:

MAC8T and 12T, 13s LiIon battery
controller set to:
30A battery (means about max 1600W)
60A phase
 
I am at work now, so can nto check exactly, but until someone more knowledgable comes along I'd suggest lookign at the RPM settings in the Trq assist page..there is a start and a 'stop' rpm. maybe fiddle with those to get a quicker cut out...so it stops at a higher rpm
 
hey ho...

i know its in the manual, but i dont understand it.

How can i Power the CA from a DCDC (12v) Power Source?


for example:

125v Battery -> DCDC Stepdown 12v -> DCDC stepdown 6v -> BikeLight (6w)
..................................................... -> USB Ports for Handy&Navi charging. (10w)
...................................................... -> 12v cigarette lighter socket (60w)
........................................................-> 12v for Controller Key Switch, Regen Brake Switch (1w)
........................................................ -> 12v Power Source Cycle Analyst (?????) (?w)
 
Merlin said:
i know its in the manual, but i dont understand it.
How can i Power the CA from a DCDC (12v) Power Source?

for example:

Code:
125v Battery -> DCDC Stepdown 12v -> DCDC stepdown 6v -> BikeLight (6w)
................................. -> USB Ports for Handy&Navi charging. (10w)
................................. -> 12v cigarette lighter socket (60w)
................................. -> 12v for Controller Key Switch, Regen Brake Switch (1w)
................................. -> 12v Power Source Cycle Analyst (?????) (?w)
Hey Merlin!
That plan looks fine.

This stuff was updated in a recent Guide revision. Make sure you have the latest and check out section "5.8 Powering the CA / High Voltage Vehicle Support" and the diagram and settings on page 46. Looks like you just need to tap the output of the DC/DC converter in that diagram for your other 12v devices listed above.

The following section "5.9 Powering Accessories with the CA" describes how to figure out the power the CA and its accessories will require for purposes of sizing the DC/DC converter. This isn't going to be much if you're not using the CA Aux Power plug (to run headlight, etc).

If that doesn't clear things up, can you post specifically what questions you have?
 
teklektik said:
Merlin said:
for example:
Code:
125v Battery -> DCDC Stepdown 12v -> DCDC stepdown 6v -> BikeLight (6w)
................................. -> USB Ports for Handy&Navi charging. (10w)
................................. -> 12v cigarette lighter socket (60w)
................................. -> 12v for Controller Key Switch, Regen Brake Switch (1w)  <== Please explain....
................................. -> 12v Power Source Cycle Analyst (?????) (?w)
That plan looks fine.
Hmmm - I sort of skated over the 'key switch' line. Can you explain what you have in mind there? Do you want the DC/DC 12v always on when the battery is ON (breaker, main switch, plugged in) or are you looking to switch the converter with the key switch?

Also - FWIW - There is nothing on a car/motorcycle that is 12v - that's just a label. Real automotive converters are typically 13.5v or 13.8v. If you are using one of those you are good. If you are using another converter (laptop or switching supply) 12v will work but you could also opt for a 15v supply. This is arguably more in the normal operating range of automotive stuff than 12v. This might open up some options for parts selection and would make auto/cycle LED lights brighter.
 
Hey Tek,
the Key Switch is to "Start the Engine".
(Controller ON, EBrake needs also Voltage to work and Cycle Analyst because i have external
Shunts and i want to switch off the CA when iam not riding and Battery is always attached)

ATM i switch also the DC/DC on (because i dont know if the DC/DC sucks my Battery off)
Unfortunately theres a "Spark" inside my KeySwitch like Connecting to a Controller+Battery. i dont like that.

Its this one:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/221429830106?_trksid=p2059210.m2748.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

iam on 20s (84v) till my new Controller arrive. so i have to replace the DC/DC with another Laptop supply.
I have some supplys @ home. But they all with DC Output of 19,5v or more ....
half of them dont work below 110v. This sucks also. If i connect 84v, the supply dont work. If i connect 30s (125v) the supply work.
one of them is for a tablet. Nice, small, 30w. But it works also only above 110v and the voltage output flickers 18/19v.
the Bigger ones have 48v Output and they work with 84v but are really big.

In my Frame is not that Space to use a Big One.
2014-10-05%2001.58.30.jpg


Iam not sure about using 3 DC/DC Converters in Series to fit my needs (efficiency?! :p)
But after searching about supplys iam not sure to find one that works as expected. (A Tipp (link) of a working one would be nice....)

...But i think this is another Story and not for this CA Topic.
I will read now the Chapter about Powering the CA from another Source.
 
Hi, does anyone knows if :
" Customization of data toggle on 1st screen Allow user to select which values to show in the lower right corner of main screen. Currently auto toggles between, distance, Ah, and temperature (if enabled). Let users choose by checkbox which they want, and if only one is selected then it would be fixed without toggling. Include adding options to show other data on 1st screen (like RPM, throttle out voltage etc)"

as been done on update ?
 
Merlin said:
the Key Switch is to "Start the Engine".
...
Unfortunately theres a "Spark" inside my KeySwitch like Connecting to a Controller+Battery. i dont like that.
...
But i think this is another Story and not for this CA Topic.
Yup - needs another thread but as a parting thought: I had the same issue on my bike - here's how I did it.
 
My cycle analyst voltage fluctuates sometimes. Usually within 1 volt. I am not sure what causes it and it is random. What seems to fix it is shutting off the cycle analyst and putting it back on.

I believe the voltage is usually lower when it is not reading correctly. So it would say 67 volts instead of 68 volts.

Has anyone experienced this problem?
 
I'm having a problem with the TDCM sensor not being able to measure anything above "moderate" human watts.

I'm using a TDCM sensor with CA v3.
Chainring = 42T

When observing the TRQ setup screen on CA:
Pedal loading @ 0lb: 2.54v
Pedal loading @ 50lb: 3.78v
Pedal loading @ 100lb: 3.78v
Pedal loading @ 150lb: 3.78v

Between 0 and roughly 50lbs of pedal force, the voltage scales nicely. But beyond 50, it is always stuck at 3.78v.
Left and right pedals behave indentically.
Note I am *estimating* 50lbs, based on some fraction of my 150lb arse standing on the pedal.

When Torque/PAS 5-pin conn is disconnected:
CA TRQ setup screen says 4.91v; pins 1 & 2 (pwr from CA) = 11.2v via my voltmeter.

Any ideas how to correct this, or what am I doing wrong?
 
An interesting issue arose in another thread from using a CA V3 modded by EM3EV with a stock Grin 3-position switch. The switch voltages had unusual values and the configuration tables in the Guide did not apply.

The short form is that at the time of this writing, the EM3EV V3 has an AuxPot resistor divider added internally so that a stock controller 3-position switch can be used on the AuxPot connector - not the Grin Tech version with an internal resistor divider of its own. Use of a pot or other custom AuxPot resistor/voltage source may require removing or at least accommodating the extra divider internal to the EM3EV CA.

If you find yourself with an EM3EV V3 and a Grin 3-position switch, this table can be used to configure the desired switch percentages in lieu of removing the EM3EV mod or obtaining a different switch. The voltages don't have much spread, but the result should be workable:

View attachment LMH-FixedR-Adj-1-5-EM3EV-GT-MIX.pdf
 
Hey guys,

Just got my cav3 dp installed and love it. I'm using the pass through throttle mode most of the time.

One feature that I came to love on my Infineon type controller was the momentary switch activated cruise control. Is there any way to use the ca to have this same capability? I read that it is extremely unsafe to continue to use the built in cruise control function of the controller. I just loved the ease of a quick tap of the button to engage it and a quick ebrake pull to disengage.

Any help/ideas are greatly appreciated!
 
Does anyone know how the throttle control is, hooked up through the cycle analyst vs connected directly to say a Lyen 18fet controller or similar?

Does hooking it up through cycle analyst give you a more smooth throttle response? Is it worth hooking it up through the cycle analyst?

I ask because I had the throttle connected through the Max-E before it broke and it was much more linear and much easier to start off slowly.

Thanks
 
frogblender said:
I'm having a problem with the TDCM sensor not being able to measure anything above "moderate" human watts.
I'm using a TDCM sensor with CA v3.
Chainring = 42T
When observing the TRQ setup screen on CA:
Pedal loading @ 0lb: 2.54v
Pedal loading @ 50lb: 3.78v
Pedal loading @ 100lb: 3.78v
Pedal loading @ 150lb: 3.78v

Between 0 and roughly 50lbs of pedal force, the voltage scales nicely. But beyond 50, it is always stuck at 3.78v.

Left and right pedals behave indentically.
Note I am *estimating* 50lbs, based on some fraction of my 150lb arse standing on the pedal.

These readings are completely correct for the TDCM sensor. It saturates at about ~40 Nm of pedal force, and anything beyond this won't change the signal since the spindle deflection is bottomed out. That's why the THUN sensor is recommended when people are after an accurate human power reading as that doesn't saturated until +-200 Nm. If you move to a larger chainring like 50T, then that will help a little bit since the same amount of pedal torque will result in less chain tension, but only to the extent of 20% or so.

Here's what Harry from TDCM told us on the subject last year, which seems to say they're aware of this limitation and may be working on a wider torque range option:
Hi Harry, so we had a full disassembly of one of the sensor devices to fully understand the mechanics and have to say that the design is very clever. It also made it apparent that there is a mechanical stop on the strain sensing devices once the spindle flexes enough to cause the far right side roller bearing to engage, and so the ~50Nm torque limit is a mechanical rather than electrical constraint, and that means that making a higher level of force sensing would require retooling the parts slightly which is not an easy undertaking.
Correct, in the near future it is almost impossible for the range to exceed 50Nm, we are looking at a different material for the spring which would allow for a shift in the range, but we are still yet to find a successful solution. We understand this is a limitation of our product, but we are currently only recommending its use on city and trekking bikes rather than mountain bikes to replicate a more accurate natural riding feeling. If an completely natural riding feeling isn’t essential the sensor can still be used for mountain bikes, even though the maximum is reached quickly full rider force still provides full motor support, the only problem is that ¾ rider force also provides this.
 
Offroader said:
Does anyone know how the throttle control is, hooked up through the cycle analyst vs connected directly to say a Lyen 18fet controller or similar?

Does hooking it up through cycle analyst give you a more smooth throttle response? Is it worth hooking it up through the cycle analyst?

I ask because I had the throttle connected through the Max-E before it broke and it was much more linear and much easier to start off slowly.

Thanks


you can setup a ramp time in your ca.
to prevend the "uncomfortable" throttle you need a throttle tamer.

you had an max e before and go back to a middle age infineon crap?
why?
 
hello

I have changed from a greentime controler with 20s lipo to a lyen controler with 24s. Every thing works ok untill y conect CA v3 to controler and the max goes to 15km/h... i am getting crazy trying to find what i have changed with out notice or not changed for this to happen but i cant find it... any clue?
 
The Lyen controller may have a different CA interface type than the Greentime. You haven't told us your settings, how anything is wired, or whether you are using normal or legacy mode, so that's just a guess.

In any case, If you change controllers you need to go through the entire installation procedure in the Guide starting with the test in step 4.2.1.1. This will get the proper wiring for the (possibly changed) interface type, re-align the throttle voltages, and get the ramping and gain adjustments corrected.
 
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