Drunkskunk
100 GW
Nice. Genuis really.
Dee Jays Giant Revive projects
- Thread starter Dee Jay
- Start date
The switch is called a roller-lever microswitch.
Another way to possibly do that would be a magnetic reed switch (like the kind typically found in a bike speedometer sensor or in burglar alarm switches). A tiny magnet attached to the moving part of the grip could activate it. In fact, a hall throttle already has a magnet on the moving part, so if you find the right location, a reed switch could be activated by it.
Another way to possibly do that would be a magnetic reed switch (like the kind typically found in a bike speedometer sensor or in burglar alarm switches). A tiny magnet attached to the moving part of the grip could activate it. In fact, a hall throttle already has a magnet on the moving part, so if you find the right location, a reed switch could be activated by it.
Dee Jay
100 kW
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2007
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Thanks, DrunkSkunk. The Ebike is a great hobby/transportation but it's far from perfect so I try to mod things for my practical needs as a consumer. As for the gauges, I just need them as part of the learning process. The average consumer may not need gauges other than simple LED torque level, power level and battery health indicators which is already standard on Japanese PAS bikes. Speaking of simplicity . . . Thanks, fechter! the magnet sensor is a fantastic idea, much simpler than fabricating an aluminum "button pusher" :wink: *oooh la la*
J
J
Dee Jay
100 kW
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2007
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continuing from another thread: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=235&p=46754#p46754
I bought Big Apples for my wife's Revive for "shock value" :wink: I didn't go for Big Apples with my Revive due to the reflective strips and only up to 70PSI which I thought might not be enough for ebike kit weight. I went for the looks, all black, puffy, and high psi 110 no-name BMX 20" but no shock absorbing qualities like the Biggies. If someone hipped me to Hook Worms when I started ebiking last April, I might've went with a set. How much are Hookies "dan-anda"?
J
I bought Big Apples for my wife's Revive for "shock value" :wink: I didn't go for Big Apples with my Revive due to the reflective strips and only up to 70PSI which I thought might not be enough for ebike kit weight. I went for the looks, all black, puffy, and high psi 110 no-name BMX 20" but no shock absorbing qualities like the Biggies. If someone hipped me to Hook Worms when I started ebiking last April, I might've went with a set. How much are Hookies "dan-anda"?
J
albie
100 W
the hookworms i got were 50.00 per rubber then i got a new maxxis 2.5 dh tube for 20.00.
but thats aussie dollars so you would probably be half of that in the US.
Although getadirtbike has told me that you can pretty much fit dirtbike tubing in the hookworms which are much more resiliant to flats.
but thats aussie dollars so you would probably be half of that in the US.
Although getadirtbike has told me that you can pretty much fit dirtbike tubing in the hookworms which are much more resiliant to flats.
Dee Jay
100 kW
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2007
- Messages
- 1,211
I went shopping yesterday and I found most of the parts I needed!
-four thermistors LM35 -DZ (336yen each)
-one Reed Switch (315yen)
-thin wires for thermistors (441yen for red, black, and blue, 7 meters each)
-one 50k pot with finger grip knob (no screwdriver required). I'll need it soon for LVC Adjusting mod. (420yen)
-didn't find an LCD panel meter. Either I'll oder this DIY LCD Kit
http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/meas/ck101.htm .....or find a way to rig up my digital multimeter inside my VHS meter panel.
-didn't find a selector switch so I'll have to make-do with mini on-off toggles for each thermistor. (190 yen each)
-I also searched for IRFB4110 mosfets just to check the price but nobody carries IRFB4110 so I didn't bother inquiring about the 100v caps.
-found two used VHS movies at an outdoor used video stall "Less than zero" (200yen) & " Mosquito Coast" (300yen), the latter being one of my most favorite flicks of all time.
When I got home from my shopping spree, I didn't know if I'd have the time to figure out a way of installing the reed switch. I was just gonna let in stew for a few days to make sure I'd sh!t me a solid installation solution as I didn't want to screw it up and have to redo it and risk damaging the glass switch. . . but I couldn't contain my excitement so I winged it.
First thing was to see if the switch was going to be sensitive enough to be activated through the throttle housing, because if it wasn't then I'd have to install a magnet externally. I used the continuity function on my multimeter and scanned the throttle with the switch and JACKPOT, I found it right next to where the cable runs through. Next was to find out how much throttle twist would it take to deactivate the switch: it felt instantaneous! Excellente . . . 8)
I used the same switch mount that I fabricated.
I bent the prongs on the switch.
Poked pinholes on the mount using . . . RIGHT, a pin! But heated red hot. It went through the plastic like knife through butter making the perfect hole.
Soldered it up and mounted it back next to the throttle AND IT WORKS GREAT!
The job took about 45 minutes. Not bad for just winging it. I don't think vibrations during rough rides have knocked the switch open, but if it did, I would guess the magnet pulled it back together in a split second making it unnoticeable. Now I just need to find a way to enclose it to avoid snagging the switch or wires.
A few things of note: Even when the bike is parked, the switch is always activated. To put the switch at rest, I simply turn the plastic mount just a hair or two to deactivate it. Also there is the PAS 2 second full-on surge: when I let the throttle close (while riding or slowing to a stop) the PAS kicks in causing the bike to lunge. Sometimes the surge is more than 2 seconds, like 4 seconds! Not too much of a problem on the 4011, but can be dangerous with the 408, not to mention an X5! I need to be mindful of my pedaling and/or use e-brakes to tame the PAS surge. I'm sure with a bit of practice everything will be second nature. I may also experiment with less magnets on the PAS wheel.
P.A.S.T. Power Assist System + Throttle
Life is goot, ya . . . ~ tra ~ la ~ la ~
Thanks again fechter, you are Teh King! If I was there in your area, I'd treat you some of my homemade nachos.
View attachment 8
J
-four thermistors LM35 -DZ (336yen each)
-one Reed Switch (315yen)
-thin wires for thermistors (441yen for red, black, and blue, 7 meters each)
-one 50k pot with finger grip knob (no screwdriver required). I'll need it soon for LVC Adjusting mod. (420yen)
-didn't find an LCD panel meter. Either I'll oder this DIY LCD Kit
http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/meas/ck101.htm .....or find a way to rig up my digital multimeter inside my VHS meter panel. -didn't find a selector switch so I'll have to make-do with mini on-off toggles for each thermistor. (190 yen each)
-I also searched for IRFB4110 mosfets just to check the price but nobody carries IRFB4110 so I didn't bother inquiring about the 100v caps.
-found two used VHS movies at an outdoor used video stall "Less than zero" (200yen) & " Mosquito Coast" (300yen), the latter being one of my most favorite flicks of all time.
When I got home from my shopping spree, I didn't know if I'd have the time to figure out a way of installing the reed switch. I was just gonna let in stew for a few days to make sure I'd sh!t me a solid installation solution as I didn't want to screw it up and have to redo it and risk damaging the glass switch. . . but I couldn't contain my excitement so I winged it.
First thing was to see if the switch was going to be sensitive enough to be activated through the throttle housing, because if it wasn't then I'd have to install a magnet externally. I used the continuity function on my multimeter and scanned the throttle with the switch and JACKPOT, I found it right next to where the cable runs through. Next was to find out how much throttle twist would it take to deactivate the switch: it felt instantaneous! Excellente . . . 8)
I used the same switch mount that I fabricated.
I bent the prongs on the switch.
Poked pinholes on the mount using . . . RIGHT, a pin! But heated red hot. It went through the plastic like knife through butter making the perfect hole.
Soldered it up and mounted it back next to the throttle AND IT WORKS GREAT!
The job took about 45 minutes. Not bad for just winging it. I don't think vibrations during rough rides have knocked the switch open, but if it did, I would guess the magnet pulled it back together in a split second making it unnoticeable. Now I just need to find a way to enclose it to avoid snagging the switch or wires.
A few things of note: Even when the bike is parked, the switch is always activated. To put the switch at rest, I simply turn the plastic mount just a hair or two to deactivate it. Also there is the PAS 2 second full-on surge: when I let the throttle close (while riding or slowing to a stop) the PAS kicks in causing the bike to lunge. Sometimes the surge is more than 2 seconds, like 4 seconds! Not too much of a problem on the 4011, but can be dangerous with the 408, not to mention an X5! I need to be mindful of my pedaling and/or use e-brakes to tame the PAS surge. I'm sure with a bit of practice everything will be second nature. I may also experiment with less magnets on the PAS wheel.
P.A.S.T. Power Assist System + Throttle
Life is goot, ya . . . ~ tra ~ la ~ la ~
Thanks again fechter, you are Teh King! If I was there in your area, I'd treat you some of my homemade nachos.
View attachment 8
J
Link
1 MW
*GASP!* No cheese! Blasphemer!!
Dee Jay
100 kW
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2007
- Messages
- 1,211
Tee hee hee! 
Dude! this ain't no 7-11 "not-cheese" that comes out of a can.This is Tex Mex "nat-chos". I gotz fo-realz genuine shredded jack and cheddar on there, not at the top with the rest of the toppings... but strategically sprinkled on every chip so it sticks when oven toasted. Besides, drowning this dish with runny cheese would be too filling. There are other highlights in this dish like:
-my homemade salsa (tomatos, green bell pepper, onion, garlic, cilantro, lime, lemon, salt ) all fresh and sweet
-I'm not good at guacamole. I just add fresh ripe avocado chunks)
-sour cream, mmm mmm mmm!
-homemade carnitas (sweet pork bits marinated then grilled)
-Let's not forget the white-corn tortilla chips. Frito Lay in a bag . . . but that's as good as it gets in Japan.
-dab some Marie Sharp's Habenro hot sauce and it is ON.... hoo wee!
J
Dude! this ain't no 7-11 "not-cheese" that comes out of a can.This is Tex Mex "nat-chos". I gotz fo-realz genuine shredded jack and cheddar on there, not at the top with the rest of the toppings... but strategically sprinkled on every chip so it sticks when oven toasted. Besides, drowning this dish with runny cheese would be too filling. There are other highlights in this dish like:
-my homemade salsa (tomatos, green bell pepper, onion, garlic, cilantro, lime, lemon, salt ) all fresh and sweet
-I'm not good at guacamole. I just add fresh ripe avocado chunks)
-sour cream, mmm mmm mmm!
-homemade carnitas (sweet pork bits marinated then grilled)
-Let's not forget the white-corn tortilla chips. Frito Lay in a bag . . . but that's as good as it gets in Japan.
-dab some Marie Sharp's Habenro hot sauce and it is ON.... hoo wee!
J
Link
1 MW
Oh.
...
Okay, then.
Also, I think he would dispute that Fechter is, in fact, "Teh King".
...
Okay, then.
Also, I think he would dispute that Fechter is, in fact, "Teh King".
Cool about the reed switch. I'm thinking that might come in handy for other applications like regen lockout or safety cutoff for a brushed controller.Link said:
Mmm... nachos sure look good.
I'm not the king... I'm the EMPEROR! and don't forget it.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=313&hilit=+emperor
vanilla ice
1 MW
Nice job.
I've got a box full of surplus motorcycle throttle "cruise controls" if anybody needs a piece of plastic shaped like the one pictured here. I think they got recalled or something and somehow I ended up with them... I was going to use them as plastic media for a wet-dry filter on my salt water tank but never did. I'll see if I can snap a pic of one.
I've got a box full of surplus motorcycle throttle "cruise controls" if anybody needs a piece of plastic shaped like the one pictured here. I think they got recalled or something and somehow I ended up with them... I was going to use them as plastic media for a wet-dry filter on my salt water tank but never did. I'll see if I can snap a pic of one.
Dee Jay
100 kW
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2007
- Messages
- 1,211
Ah! fechter is ~ ~ ~ TEH EMPEROR ! I offer you nachos fit for an Emperor
Great pics on that thread BTW.
Burger King is King-ish, but I have to say Wendy's bacon burger is the Teh King of my tummy. Link, why do you have to make fun of my keyboard accent :wink:
Check out my new meter box that I made in just a few hours. I tried different arrangements before making any cuts or holes.
I started with this one.
View attachment 1
And ended up with this one, the toggles being left hand orientated and also leaves a little room for other controls I may add in the future.
Not joe-perfect but presentable enough. Matters not because I can always make another one with more precision and better meter arrangements... I have boxes of moldy VHS cassettes in hard cases.
I can stuff excess wires and a fuse holder in it.
The digital meter is sunk into case and its face sits on top of the case lid, but can be detached for regular undocked use.
This meter box will be mounted by velcro on top of a plastic platform made from (yes) another VHS case lid that'll be secured over the handlebar. The box and the harnesses will be detachable so I can swap it with the Altec Lansing M4 battery powered speakers. The platform will also serve to hold anything I want to velcro or screw to it such as my digital camera or a bowl of noodles :wink:
I should have the platform done by Monday. It's going to look a hell of a lot more discreet than the chrismuss balls.
J
*nom nom nom*fechter said:
Great pics on that thread BTW.
Burger King is King-ish, but I have to say Wendy's bacon burger is the Teh King of my tummy. Link, why do you have to make fun of my keyboard accent :wink:
Check out my new meter box that I made in just a few hours. I tried different arrangements before making any cuts or holes.
I started with this one.
View attachment 1
And ended up with this one, the toggles being left hand orientated and also leaves a little room for other controls I may add in the future.
Not joe-perfect but presentable enough. Matters not because I can always make another one with more precision and better meter arrangements... I have boxes of moldy VHS cassettes in hard cases.
I can stuff excess wires and a fuse holder in it.
The digital meter is sunk into case and its face sits on top of the case lid, but can be detached for regular undocked use.
This meter box will be mounted by velcro on top of a plastic platform made from (yes) another VHS case lid that'll be secured over the handlebar. The box and the harnesses will be detachable so I can swap it with the Altec Lansing M4 battery powered speakers. The platform will also serve to hold anything I want to velcro or screw to it such as my digital camera or a bowl of noodles :wink:
I should have the platform done by Monday. It's going to look a hell of a lot more discreet than the chrismuss balls.
J
Dee Jay
100 kW
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2007
- Messages
- 1,211
Found a cool little used-stuff shop last week, owned/operated by some old guy out of his store/home.
Its where I bought a used "Calpers"
carbon fiber no-less *plastic* 1800yen. I know, I got ripped but I had to see what this plastic tool bid-nis was all about.
Also found the same exact 3 LED bike light I bought at the bike shop for 2300 yen, 500 yen at the used shop! Grabbed that too. Now I have two lights beaming like some robot eyes.
Dropped by again today and saw handtools, powertools, clamps and vices. I just might be able to make me the torque arms I've been dreaming about: gripping the axle from inside the drop-outs, *keepin it down*
And also a circular saw, Makita I think. *wheels are turning* I have a 1000w power generator, hack that and the saw into some kind of go-kart frame... hhmmm *wheels are turning*
PS:He has loads of used Japanese pron... :wink:
Its where I bought a used "Calpers"
carbon fiber no-less *plastic* 1800yen. I know, I got ripped but I had to see what this plastic tool bid-nis was all about.
Also found the same exact 3 LED bike light I bought at the bike shop for 2300 yen, 500 yen at the used shop! Grabbed that too. Now I have two lights beaming like some robot eyes.
Dropped by again today and saw handtools, powertools, clamps and vices. I just might be able to make me the torque arms I've been dreaming about: gripping the axle from inside the drop-outs, *keepin it down*
And also a circular saw, Makita I think. *wheels are turning* I have a 1000w power generator, hack that and the saw into some kind of go-kart frame... hhmmm *wheels are turning*
PS:He has loads of used Japanese pron... :wink:
Dee Jay
100 kW
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2007
- Messages
- 1,211
*ding ding ding*
Ok, I'm done mounting the panel box. My first attempt with plastic mounts didn't cut it. It was wobbly, rattled like a SOB, and stuck up too high screaming for attention. I replaced the plastic with stainless steel L brackets (no picture) and it stabilized the box rock-steady . . . enough. . .
I was trying to refresh my visual-palate by NOT looking at NOR thinking about how the panel box looked until the very last moment before taking the first photo. My "First Impression"? The panel box blended in very very well.
Well . . . compared to the chirsmuss ballz. I'm happy with it.
L.I.G. 8)
What say you?
J
Ok, I'm done mounting the panel box. My first attempt with plastic mounts didn't cut it. It was wobbly, rattled like a SOB, and stuck up too high screaming for attention. I replaced the plastic with stainless steel L brackets (no picture) and it stabilized the box rock-steady . . . enough. . .
I was trying to refresh my visual-palate by NOT looking at NOR thinking about how the panel box looked until the very last moment before taking the first photo. My "First Impression"? The panel box blended in very very well.
Well . . . compared to the chirsmuss ballz. I'm happy with it.
L.I.G. 8)
What say you?
J
TylerDurden
100 GW
It's good.
The angle of the close-up makes it look cluttered, but the other pix show it to be very tidy.
cheers!
The angle of the close-up makes it look cluttered, but the other pix show it to be very tidy.
cheers!
Dee Jay
100 kW
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2007
- Messages
- 1,211
OK , I installed an LM35DZ thermistor inside the controller as it was easier than doing the motor's and battery's sensors. I wanted all of them done at the same time but I'll have to wait until I find the proper wire insulator for all four sensor harnesses as well as three pin connectors for quick release of the meter box and four components.
Since certain parts such as mosfets and capacitors naturally heat up, I didn't bond the sensor to any particular place, it is strapped along with the other harnesses measuring ambient temp inside the controller box. Suggestions?
At home:
Controller switched off , 20c
Controller switched on, temp steadily raised to 30.9c in 1 hour.
Evening Ride: 7km / 24kmh / normal pedaling / wind speed: gusty?
Evening outdoor temp was 12c.
Controller operating temp: went down about 28c from 30.9c
Wind chill increased and quickly lowered the controller temp down to 22c.
Stopped for 15 minutes and controller went down 16c with power on. Good motor response. Battery performance would be worse if the bike was parked out in the bitter cold ... I park it inside the living room where it's toasty at night.
I'll do a day ride temp measurement later this afternoon with more accuracy.
It will be interesting so see the temp of these components this summer.
L.I.G. 8) To celebrate, I had a Chang beer and Pad Thai at my fave Thai restaurant served by a luscious Thai babe.
And for your gut-busting enjoyment, Part II mix is up. :lol:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=2997&p=48987#p48987
Happy Friday everyone!
Since certain parts such as mosfets and capacitors naturally heat up, I didn't bond the sensor to any particular place, it is strapped along with the other harnesses measuring ambient temp inside the controller box. Suggestions?
At home:
Controller switched off , 20c
Controller switched on, temp steadily raised to 30.9c in 1 hour.
Evening Ride: 7km / 24kmh / normal pedaling / wind speed: gusty?
Evening outdoor temp was 12c.
Controller operating temp: went down about 28c from 30.9c
Wind chill increased and quickly lowered the controller temp down to 22c.
Stopped for 15 minutes and controller went down 16c with power on. Good motor response. Battery performance would be worse if the bike was parked out in the bitter cold ... I park it inside the living room where it's toasty at night.
I'll do a day ride temp measurement later this afternoon with more accuracy.
It will be interesting so see the temp of these components this summer.
L.I.G. 8) To celebrate, I had a Chang beer and Pad Thai at my fave Thai restaurant served by a luscious Thai babe.
And for your gut-busting enjoyment, Part II mix is up. :lol:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=2997&p=48987#p48987
Happy Friday everyone!
Dee Jay
100 kW
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2007
- Messages
- 1,211
In other news: I found an Elettrica dealer. It was closed but was able to snap some photos from outside. I love how they use a V engine as paperweight on their counter! Like the flowers next to it, it is merely decor. Rebels, I tell ya. REBELS! 8)
Usually the temperature sensor is mounted to the heat sink next to the FETs. These are the primary heat generators, along with the voltage regulator if it's a linear one.
Anywhere inside the box will eventually show the average temperature, but the response is slow when it is surrounded by air.
Cool little electric car. I like the charger clips.
Anywhere inside the box will eventually show the average temperature, but the response is slow when it is surrounded by air.
Cool little electric car. I like the charger clips.
Dee Jay
100 kW
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2007
- Messages
- 1,211
Thanks fechter. I thought about the heat sink too, but was wondering if the heat sink conducts heat from the fets only . . . I want to include temp from the board by somehow wedging the sensor between the board and the heat sink insulated with some kind of heat conducting material, rubber tube? silicone? potting? what have you?
Maybe it's not too important . . .
Wonder why they're using alligator clips . . . I thought such an established brand would have standardized plugs
J
Maybe it's not too important . . .
fechter said:
Wonder why they're using alligator clips . . . I thought such an established brand would have standardized plugs
J
Most of the heat is generated from the FETs. The main capacitors might make some heat too, but not much if they are sized properly. The rest of the board is just going to be heated by proximity to the other stuff.
Silicone glue is a good heat conductor.
Silicone glue is a good heat conductor.
Dee Jay
100 kW
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2007
- Messages
- 1,211
My 36v NiMH pack and its voltage-drop had been very disappointing. No balls! I get small children yelling in Japanese, "Wow! Look at that amazing bike, dad! It must be FAST!" Yeah right . . . 
Woke up this morning feeling ready to take on another challenging project: to build a fourteen M1 cells / 46.2 volts / 2.3 Ah battery pack. Why 14 cells / 46.2 volts? Because I want to increase my speed with the most voltage my 36v controller can handle. 13 cells would be odd, and 12 cells / 39.6v is too low. So 14 cells / 46.2 volts will do and will be approx 93+ cm long . . . it will fit nicely ~inside~ the upper frame of my Revive. Stealth 8)
Got online and combed the web for more info and was inspired by these pages:
http://www.terrorhurtz.com/a123/
http://ev.whitecape.org/insight/A123/
Gary Graunke's technique of straightening the cells without removing the tabs will save me time and effort. I will only need to solder another 4 cells.
http://ev.whitecape.org/insight/A123/A123batteries033.jpg
I will eventually double the Ah by building a second 14 cells stick with the 6 cells leftover and another Dewalt pack and will also be stowed along side the first stick. I will be left two cells 6.6 which I will use for lights
For charging, I will use the DC9000 Dewalt charger to charge the first 10 cells until all cells are in the ballpark voltages:
http://www.terrorhurtz.com/a123/images/charger3.jpg
then balance them with a single cell charger one at a time.
https://s.p10.hostingprod.com/@www.voltphreaks.com/ssl/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=3&products_id=28
The last 4 cells will have to be charged entirely by the single cell charger, unless someone can suggest a way to get 4 cells in the ballpark with the DC9000 without tripping the BMS.
Since 2.7v per cell LVC is recommended by Bob McCree on this post, then with 46.2v, 37.8v would be my LVC?
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=2498&sid=9ee3df86ceba16353d09d5e49d819841&start=0
Questions:
This will be my first M1 pack build but I don't know how the balancing harness is wired. I've been studying pics from different sources but I still can't quite make it out. I made a quick and dirty paste job, is this configuration correct??
What do you guys think? Are there flaws in my plan?
Thanks in advance!
J
Woke up this morning feeling ready to take on another challenging project: to build a fourteen M1 cells / 46.2 volts / 2.3 Ah battery pack. Why 14 cells / 46.2 volts? Because I want to increase my speed with the most voltage my 36v controller can handle. 13 cells would be odd, and 12 cells / 39.6v is too low. So 14 cells / 46.2 volts will do and will be approx 93+ cm long . . . it will fit nicely ~inside~ the upper frame of my Revive. Stealth 8)
Got online and combed the web for more info and was inspired by these pages:
http://www.terrorhurtz.com/a123/
http://ev.whitecape.org/insight/A123/
Gary Graunke's technique of straightening the cells without removing the tabs will save me time and effort. I will only need to solder another 4 cells.
http://ev.whitecape.org/insight/A123/A123batteries033.jpg
I will eventually double the Ah by building a second 14 cells stick with the 6 cells leftover and another Dewalt pack and will also be stowed along side the first stick. I will be left two cells 6.6 which I will use for lights
For charging, I will use the DC9000 Dewalt charger to charge the first 10 cells until all cells are in the ballpark voltages:
http://www.terrorhurtz.com/a123/images/charger3.jpg
then balance them with a single cell charger one at a time.
https://s.p10.hostingprod.com/@www.voltphreaks.com/ssl/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=3&products_id=28
The last 4 cells will have to be charged entirely by the single cell charger, unless someone can suggest a way to get 4 cells in the ballpark with the DC9000 without tripping the BMS.
Since 2.7v per cell LVC is recommended by Bob McCree on this post, then with 46.2v, 37.8v would be my LVC?
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=2498&sid=9ee3df86ceba16353d09d5e49d819841&start=0
Questions:
This will be my first M1 pack build but I don't know how the balancing harness is wired. I've been studying pics from different sources but I still can't quite make it out. I made a quick and dirty paste job, is this configuration correct??
What do you guys think? Are there flaws in my plan?
Thanks in advance!
J
How about adding a 12V booster pack to arrive at the same voltage, at least for a test drive to see if that brings it up to your expectations.
Sag should be less for given power level & a cheaper way to go, if that's a consideration.
Sag should be less for given power level & a cheaper way to go, if that's a consideration.
Dee Jay
100 kW
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2007
- Messages
- 1,211
Hi Toorbough, thanks for the input.
Although it's an interesting idea, I don't have spare NiMH cells to experiment in boosting my 36v NiMH pack. Nor do I have the spare change to buy new NiMH cells to boost older NiMH cells. I'm sure using M1 cells to boost my wimpy NiMH cells would most likely be out of the question, too. I'm just doing what I can with what I have: two fresh Dewalt packs and a charger collecting dust.
My 36v NiMH pack have been charged as high as 45.+v fresh off the charger. When I used it at 45v, the controller was fine. I can tell you that the difference feels good, an easy 26 to 27 kmh, at least for the first 10 minutes. . . then it's down to 23kmh. 24 if my pack feels like it, which is acceptable. But if I let the battery cool off for too long, then I'll be down to a piss-poor 21-22kmh. By the time I've ridden 20 km, the Low led starts to get solid and I'm down to about 20 kmh.
A consistent 26-27kmh, even for a mere 2.3ah would be worth it for me. At least until I double up to 4.6Ah. Then 6.9Ah. Then 9.2AH! 8)
J
Although it's an interesting idea, I don't have spare NiMH cells to experiment in boosting my 36v NiMH pack. Nor do I have the spare change to buy new NiMH cells to boost older NiMH cells. I'm sure using M1 cells to boost my wimpy NiMH cells would most likely be out of the question, too. I'm just doing what I can with what I have: two fresh Dewalt packs and a charger collecting dust.
My 36v NiMH pack have been charged as high as 45.+v fresh off the charger. When I used it at 45v, the controller was fine. I can tell you that the difference feels good, an easy 26 to 27 kmh, at least for the first 10 minutes. . . then it's down to 23kmh. 24 if my pack feels like it, which is acceptable. But if I let the battery cool off for too long, then I'll be down to a piss-poor 21-22kmh. By the time I've ridden 20 km, the Low led starts to get solid and I'm down to about 20 kmh.
A consistent 26-27kmh, even for a mere 2.3ah would be worth it for me. At least until I double up to 4.6Ah. Then 6.9Ah. Then 9.2AH! 8)
J
